dashrazor

oops that's a copy paste error i fixed it lol

you are correct Sean.. no rivets on ROTJ

actually IMO the leather looks more accurate even for ROTJ standards, my own belt is not canvas for that reason.. it just dosnt look right.. really unless you painted the canvas with a semigloss paint... i cant see any issue as long as it is cut straight and looks good.. after a little weathering it wont even be distinguish it unless you really looking for it closely, BTW my EIB approved belt is rubberized canvas honestly i think the actual material used is irrelevant as long as it looks the part as close as you can get

hats off to you Steven!! your really going the extra mile

this is a good site to start (but the armor made is far from accurate) it does have some good info http://www.trooperarmor.com/ this site has some good info as well http://www.tk560.com/ are you planning to sculpt for fun, or are you trying to save a few bucks? i ask because you won't save any cash by sculpting it yourself all the supplies add up fast..

perfect!!! everything looks in order, APPROVED! great work Lars!

wow! that is sweet one thing i can see is that you need to close up those side gaps between the ab and kidney sections. either a small shim or strap it so as the gap is fully closed should do the trick. other than that its a easy pass.

JK

you could try this

truck bed liner worked fine for me just be careful not to get any on the outside

i do not use the blue stuff for lines myself i like the green automotive stuff .. i do use the blue stuff as well but mainly to prevent overspray,, it is cheaper than the automotive for that use alone.. but i also used an airbrush that requires thinner paints than the canned stuff, so the blue stuff tends to bleed

he is preparing for his new show and other RL stuff.. unfortunately will not be around for some time...

as long as it looks like the belts in the ROTJ screencaps you should be good to go.. i used rubberized canvas on my own ICN.. im not sure if it is necessary to use canon material.. the CRL does not specify material either.. it does specify the size, Belt must be 2.5" wide, not 3" as on ANH/ESB i cut mine to the width of my thermal detonator as shown on the screencaps above which is about 2 1/4" another screenshot -----------

everything now appears to be in order.. APPROVED! and great work trooper

wow interesting strapping system!

looking good Eric! 2 things i can see right away is you have a problem with your butt..it looks like the butt and kidney are still one piece, correct?.. you need to separate them then take a shot with the belt above the split. like shown on the right also i would put a dab of white paint on the thigh ammo box and shin sniper plate rivets it will improve the overall look

congrats!!! nothing beats a big brown box full of plastic!!

i used a shiny rubberized canvas.. RTOJ belts are smaller in width, about 2 inches wide and have a glossy look.. leather of vynil or perhaps you could paint your canvas with a glossy fabric paint ? one thing i noticed in ROTJ the belts color matches the armor perfectly.. i think the belts were painted to match the armor thus the glossy sheen.. but i cant be 100% sure on that.. they could have painted the armor to match the belts

i notched mine then rounded them off a bit with sandpaper, mainly so they don't scrape off my paint or snag my body suit

i made mine but you could pick up a single mag pouch and dye it black http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-Alice-9mm-Mag-Pouch-M9-Molle-Magazine-Utility-Ammo-/260751982432?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cb6077f60 my other idea would be to use a jack knife case you could probably find one at wally world or a sporting goods store

you should be able to weather the shiny helmet fine.. but like Sean said light sanding to add scuffing in some areas.. but it is really up to you and how you want it to look.. the pouch is fine but the ICN has another small pouch attached to the side like so you could just add on another small pouch here are some pics of my helmet weathering.. i just polished it up and added more weathering whether it is dull or shiny that is up to you i had it dull before but i just added a shiny clear coat and i love it myself

i wouldn't worry about sanding the topcoat on a weathered armor myself. and ask away, that's what the FISD is for

ok, you need only to apply a thin coat at a time and it should dry in 24 hrs tops.. if your helmet took too long it was probably because the paint was applied too thick. When spraying the spray paint make sure to use smooth even passes across what is being painted. Do not start painting on top of the part because the paint will be heavier in that area. When painting you want to press and release the button to the side of the part being painted. Again a few light coats are better than one heavy one and make sure to allow proper drying time between coats. i wait 2-3 hrs between coats with rustolium.. then 24 to 48 hrs before handling (depending on the weather) i am currently using rustolium automotive spray paint and it looks great! the good thing is that if your going to make an incinerator you dont really need a smooth glossy finish.. it will accept the weathering better if you leave the sprayed on texture and you should only need 2-3 coats over a good primer

can i ask what type of rustolium enamel you used (appliance epoxy, automotive, professional) ??? and it will be great to have another ICN!!!!!

i love the hammered metal rustolum as well.. i also spray a mist of flat black to reduce the shine on some parts.. latest pait job http://forum.whitearmor.net/index.php?showtopic=14624 i layer the hammered finish over silver then a flat black mist. it looks much better in person than the photos