Locitus

No, just you (and 5 other IP's). And I suggest that you send that email.

Anything that can cut plastic. Some would say dremel and cutting wheel, others would say lexan scissors.

He was under validation for some reason. I've changed him to member, so he should be able to view the forums now.

You want #14, the lighter shade of blue.

It's to your own preference. Some use box cutters, some use scalpels, some use dremels. I like to use something called "lexan scissors".

Sure is.

Nope.

Does he know the last name of this Mike? If so, please PM me that to not leave sensitive information in the open. Well, he could have gotten a better armour for less cash if he'd come here. But you got a decent deal, assuming that it doesn't break instantly.

No, please keep it. It's good for documentation purposes. Did you get your armor in the same shipping box as your friend got it in?

It looks like a mix of RS parts and an ATA (or other TE-derived) helmet.

It'll be accurate enough to get an approval. But I can't guarantee that it won't break after trooping a few times.

Depends on what you paid for it. Often when people buy recasts they do it to try to save money, since they generally are cheaper than a "genuine" armour. What they don't realize it that the quality often is so bad that the thing breaks within a fraction of the lifetime you would get from quality armour for a few dollars extra.

Thanks. Got any close ups of the helmet as well?

Thanks. All right, so your friend didn't make the suit. Could you ask him where he got it from? Recasting is not only bad for the customer since it in more than 9 out of 10 cases deliver an inferior product, but it hurts the hobby as a whole by cheating the really good and dedicated producers who spend hundreds or thousands of hours and dollars on delivering quality products, and if they stop that, we have no quality products left. So it's an issue we have to take quite seriously, since it affects us all.

To make things easier for all of us, could you take some more pictures of your parts? It would help with a positive identification of the sources. One thing that is for sure is that it's not TE2.

Now I'm a bit curious myself since this is how a TE2 bicep and shoulder bell should look like: And yours look nothing like it Care to tell us some more about this armour? If your friend is recasting we'd prefer to know about it. TE2 is also supplied with two biceps that both have the "thumb print", where as you only have it on one part. To illustrate, here's the second bicep part from the same kit as shown above. Notice the thumb print:

Looks good. Holster looks a little funky, but it's fine. I would not recommend that holster for centurion though. I would also suggest trimming the edge of the knee plate so that it stops with a vertical line than the angle you have now. Approved

Good luck!

Here's ROTJ for you

This is why we need a FISD gallery, for quick and easy lookups of references.

I know. It's just for fun.

That one might suit Elvistrooper.

Isn't that quite a common problem with open bolt SMG's?

You have some flashing in the teeth that could be sanded out, and the filling behind the ears should be sanded smooth.

With some more work on the teeth and the ears and you should be fine.