Locitus

I'm adding people to the EIB page as the graphics for their profiles are made and then in no particular order. Duplicate numbers are of course not good, but can sometimes happen when it's done manually. We recently looked at that, but if you still find some, then someone was obviously overlooked.

I would have approved you anyway, but held out to see how far I could push you with modifications.

Personally I believe this "E-6000 bad snap combo" depends on what kind of snaps you use. Mine are always lacquered and not raw metal (I buy expensive snaps), so in my case the glue doesn't have direct contact with the snap.

Never had any problems with that either. Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2

Good luck

Try to trim the belt some more on the top and bottom to minimize the edge around the boxes. Your belt position is correct though. It's supposed to be riveted with a cap rivet in each top corner of the belt through the raised portion at the bottom of the thigh. Use a spray can to get a nice curve. Place the can on the belt and line it up with the bottom of the belt and the last box on each side. Then draw an outline around the can from the horizontal bottom of the belt up to 90 degrees, and go straight up from that so that the top corner is a 90 degree angle.

Insane!

Also, remember to get insurance for your pets. If you care about them, you get insurance.

if £2 + shipping that I pay for my brass rivets are 10x more expensive than otherwise then you must have a hell of a deal at work.

Well, I don't want to rain on your parade either. I'll be looking forward to the upgraded rivets. In the meantime, enjoy your award. Great work Ingrid!

She'll need 7 at least. 6 for the side and 1 for the crotch. Preferably brass.

Loving the sniper knee. Looks a lot better now. Well done!

That's the spirit! I've given away lots of split rivets in my garrison as well. They're so cheap when you buy them in bulk that there's no reason not to.

That's the assumtion I would make. Given how hard the MGC is to find it's not easy to find good references. Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2

Mobile skin works just fine on my galaxy s3.

You know where to post if you want to dispute the linage.

No problem.

Cap and split rivets are very cheap. The TK-related websites that sell them have a huge markup. See http://www.ebay.com/...=item1e624d729a £2.95 for 100 split rivets http://www.ebay.com/...984.m1439.l2649 $2.19 for 50 cap rivets There's no reason apart from not knowing any better not to have the accurate hardware.

I would like to give heads up that I would like to ban usage of brads because they are not accurate and look so cheap. If things go my way that is. It'll more likely be a vote on the matter.

Using split rivets is easy. All you need is a screwdriver and a pair of pliers (unless you have the special setting tool). Place the screwdriver shaft horizontally between the rivet legs and use the pliers to grip the rivet with one half of the jaws, and the screwdriver shaft with the other. Squeeze. Once the screwdriver shaft as spread the legs open a little bit more than before, you can take away the screwdriver and just work with the pliers on the rivet legs spreading them completely flat against the surface. Also be sure to have a washer on the inside before you start spreading the legs of the rivet. Cap rivets are even easier. They come in two halves. One cap and one shaft. The shaft goes through the hole you make beforehand, then you put the cap on top of the shaft. It even stays put by itself. Then you put something hard underneath the bottom of the shaft half and start beating the cap with a hammer. That makes the shaft sort of collapse inside of the hollow cap forming a strong locking mechanism at the same time as the shaft grows shorter and the two parts you want riveted together sit tighter and secure.

To be honest, if you are building your suit from kit it's a lot easier to make sure you get all the centurion things added than if you take an existing suit and try to modify it to work.

I'll try to get that sorted within a week or so then. I think I have the perfect shipping box at the office, which I won't be visiting until next week.

No problem.

Because if you're going for accuracy you should use machine screws and nuts. You'll need to put those on first or you won't be able to reach the nuts on the inside with the caps on.

I still have my 1/3rd scale SFS helmet that could use some TLC. You did an amazing job on yours. I hope it works out buddy...