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Locitus

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Everything posted by Locitus

  1. I would suggest using silicone caulk or something to make the transition between armour and shim more seamless as well. Like a kind of filler. That way it kind of slopes instead of a a vertical transition. It's just an idea and not something I've seen done so the results might not be as I imagine, but it could work.
  2. The reason I would not approve that is not because of the shims themselves but how he affixed them.
  3. Just move it forwards, closer to the belt end.
  4. We did have a vote on the subject. Also, see me previous comment on the subject: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/21642-tk-8461-requesting-esb-ata-centurion-status/page__st__20#entry269139
  5. Not that much to mention really. The few improvements that can be made have been mentioned, but aren't required. It's a very well made armour none the less and should be recognized as such. Approved.
  6. Aside from recommending that you move the holster closer to the belt edge, raise the drop boxes, move the detonator belt clips towards the end caps (they are sort of lob sided as well now), and replace the shoulder bell cross elastic to something less wide, and trim off the excess on the knee plate, I think you've done a good job. Approved.
  7. The teeth-gaps on the helmet look like they could be trimmed a little bit larger, but otherwise I don't have much to comment on. Just try to fix the shoulder bell rotation. Approved.
  8. You have some excess plastic on your shoulder bridges that should be trimmed off. I would also recommend moving the holster closer to the belt edge, as well as raise the drop boxes and move the detonator belt clips further towards the end caps. I also suggest you move the straps between bicep and forearm to the inside so that they are less visible. But most importantly you need to submit an action photo for the EIB page before I approve your application.
  9. I would not have approved that for centurion.
  10. I would say most kits you see here are rough or raw kits yes. When trimming the limbs you mostly only need to consider the "front" of the pieces to be trimmed to a specific distance to nicely line up with your cover strips. The backs are simply trimmed to fit, IE you take away as much as you need. The torso doesn't involve much fitting and is more or less "one size fits most".
  11. Why not make them yourself? Get a sheet of styrene, cut it to size and heat bend the sides to get a box shape.
  12. They do not come with instructions. You'll find plenty of help on this forum though on how to do it. I built and RS-armour in less than 3 days this summer. The upside of buying finished is that they know what they are doing and will deliver a correctly assembled, made to measure armour. The downsides are that it's made to measure and if you're giving them the wrong measurements then it might not fit. Also, if something should happen to break in the future, you won't have as much experience in fixing it unless you've built it yourself. It's also a fun experience to build yourself and saves you a lot of money.
  13. There is a rivet behind the ear, yes. There is a second rivet under the bottom half of the ear too that you can wait to put in until you have the angle of the face as you want.
  14. Locitus

    Woooooo!

    Congratulations Tony! Now go here: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/16-501st-trooper-status-requests-include-link-to-your-501st-profile-in-your-request/
  15. Locitus

    Woooooo!

    Go to your garrison. Make a costume. Submit it on 501st.com and send pictures of it to your garrisons GML.
  16. Looks like you need a crotch strap. And try to raise those drop boxes so that they are flush with the bottom of the belt. Tighten the straps between kidney and back as well. But overall not that bad if this is your first time wearing it. The more you wear it the more you notice what can be improved upon, both in function and comfort.
  17. Those are all good things in terms of accuracy and form-fitting...
  18. And on the far right is the belt rivet covers.
  19. Looking awesome!
  20. I wouldn't go as far as saying that meeting the new requirements is "the bare minimum", but I am liking your attitude.
  21. I have screws through all parts that would have, making it look as if I was using the original strapping system. But I'm not saying that you need to add that.
  22. I'm sorry that no one informed you of the members-only rule, or gave you a full copy the rules. I'm just letting you know that while you have the go ahead to make and sell the shirt (at cost) you may only sell it to legion members. I'm not here to point fingers, I'm just letting you know. Your shirt-thread still exists, it's just been hidden temporarily.
  23. So let's summarize then: You make a kick-an impolite person design (I like it too) and ask for permission to sell it Rougetrooper and Daetrin like it and allow you to use the FISD "brand" They then take it to the Legion Merchandise Branding Officer who signs off for the design and allows it to be made .... we are here... At what point did anyone tell you it would be okey to sell this to non-members? While you as non-member yourself understandably have limited access to the documentation (forum posts) that dictate how Legion apparel and merchandise may be sold, I would have assumed that someone should have told you the rules. And if not, then here they (or some of them) are: Emphasis mine. If any one else doubts what I'm posting, here is the full post: http://www.501st.com...opic.php?t=1684 I don't mean any offence or "sniping" or spoiling you work Tony. I'm just letting you know what's up, since it would seem that others failed to do so before. So in effect, this doesn't de-rail you shirt project. It only means that you need to know, and make sure of, that you are not allowed to sell the shirt to non-501st members. That's all.
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