gazmosis

Just another suggestion for the future. Before you start wearing your armor for troops, put a couple strips of velcro (the fuzzy side) on the outside of your metal clips. This will prevent your armor from becoming all scratched up as it gets crammed between your belt and the armor. Look at the screen grab at how the armor is marred up.

Welcome to the glory that is armor building!!! As for the Detonator, the total length should be around 7 3/8 - 7 1/2 inches. Your metal clips are too close to center. They should come pretty close to touching the outer caps.

If adjusting the side screws doesn;t work for aligning your browline the way you want, you can always trim a little off the front of the cap. As for the tube stripe templates, if you have a steady enough hand, you can always place the template in its proper spot, then trace each stripe with a pencil. Then just paint each stripe covering your pencil line. Guaranteed no bleed through AND you will get the true hand painted effect. I used this method on this RS Props helmet I did a little while back.

Well done! Nice work so far. Check your ejection port. The lower corner of that was not that sharp of an angle it was more rounded.

Very VERY nice work!!!! The little things are what make the big picture. I love your attention to details!!

Didn't I hear that the new FX (NE "No Excuses") armor is recasted RS Props?? http://forum.mepd.ne...?showtopic=5766

it's not the wrong clip, its the end of the clip that slides on...it should just be a push button and the upside down word "off". And the arrow pointing towards the front of the blaster. It's also missing the retainer clip on the backside

Thanks Echo!!!

An RS helmet is bothan investment and an honor to own. Just trying to make it the best it can be!!! That looks TONS better. For your tube strips, I would make a sort of template even if it's out of paper. This way you can take your time mapping out each stripe. Cut them out with an exacto knife. Then you can position them correctly. Trace them out and carefully just follow the lines. Just as an example, here is the RS I just finished 3 weeks ago.Just do everyone a favor.....PLEASE DON'T USE ACETONE AGAIN!!!!!! Left on for a moment too long and that will turn the plastic to toothpaste

I have been given the honor to participate in an RS Props build. My eyes are burning from the amount of Ref. pics that I have been looking at. I am looking at pics because the "L" label fell off one of the shin halves. I have one of 4 marked. Really don't want to mess this up. Can someone help me with a "NO DOUBTS" ref shot of which greive half goes with which?

I was also wondering about the paint. You might want to go back with the gray and fill the centers in bit to thin out the black outlines. They look way thick to me. The tube stripes should be re-done. I am sorry about the brutal honesty, but they look more like bar codes than tube stripes.

Matte on both all the way. 2/3 testors flat with 1/3 testors gloss has always been my recipe.

MUMBLE MUMBLE MUMBLE MUMBLE MUMBLE...what Karin Said...........MMUMBLE MUMBLE

http://www.reynoldsam.com/ Hey Kristina. This place here has EVERYTHING you need to begin a life of casting/molding. They really know their stuff and are SUPER friendly. The only real thing to consider with your clay is if you decide to use silicone as your casting material choice, you HAVE TO USE A NON SULFER CLAY. If you are going to do repeated castings, silicone is the way to go. As for csting plasters, I have worked with both standard plaster of paris but ulrtra-cal 30 is by far a superior casting material. It gets super hard. Careful! It generates quite a bit of heat when curing. It totally sets in about an hour.

Looks like you might be needing a holster!! Please post all your progress!!!! Pics would help, too!!

Well done!!!! I will never stop loving the ATA!!!

Are you doing a TD??

You REALLY nailed the paint job on the helmet!!! Breathtaking armor!

Think about the process if you decide to go for Centurion, do it now rather than build it twice.

I have done the plasti-dip in over a dozen helmets. Priming is not necessary, however I do recommend that you wipe any and all release agents out of your helmet with some gentle mineral spirits and then run some 220 sandpaper on the inside. Just for kicks and a really cool Kevlar type effect, I embed pre-cut pieces of cheesecloth into the plasti-dip while still wet. Dabbing this with the same brush you applied it with will get it to stay in place better. The smell is horendous but will go away completely after a 36 hour cure. Why do this?? A black interior better hides your face. If you are not wearing a balaclava, shorter fans looking up into your helmet will see black rather than a less believable white. It also gives a little density to the helmet without adding too much weight.

Like Mathias said! LOVE THE WONK!!!!

You also might want to include a picture of the neck trim on the helmet since "s" trim is required. The shoulder straps should NOT be attached at the back with velcro. They need to free float. Side split rivets?? That crotch rivet looks huge to me. All these observations may seem a bit harsh...don't take it too personally..but this IS centurion here. Centurion is a level where "close" just won't cut it. This level has always been very hard to achieve with FX anything.

How could a sandie have glue residue from a TK sniper plate?? It was my understanding that the TDs were shot prior to any TKs.

REALLY???? I did not know that!!!

Congratulations Eric from all your minions in the Midwest Garrison!!!!!