gazmosis

Spank me if I am wrong here Admin!!! I don't think there is any definitive measurement between the scope rail and the barrel. HOWEVER, you do not want to make that space excessive. I persomally would not go ANY larger than 3/8 inch. Sorry this is so crude and not to scale, but the details should answer your questions. The front tab just slips into the vent hole. Then you drill a hole into the end that fits between the rear sight and then into the barrel. Attach it by whatever fits in this. A small nut and screw is fine.

Just my 2 cents.....I have always used plasti-dip with embedded cheesecloth. It is somewhat labor intensive (so is building armor correctly) but the end result in awesome. It gives the inside of the helmet a kevlar type look and it gives the helmet as a whole some density without adding a lot of weight. The small is awful initially, but goes away after curing for 2 or 3 days.

Isn't it great to see thie light at the end of the tunnel!!!!!! Nice build my friend

Breathtaking! I can't stop looking at you!

Sweet job on that thigh pack!!! You really took your time and it paid off. Well done!

A good referrence point on how to align the cap to the face is by using the temple trapezoids as a location marker. The front of the trapezoids should match up with the rear of the eye opening. Also I, as many others will, recommend placing your brow trim in place. This will assure you have a good fit to the faceplate and this will help you to determine how much/little reveal you want on your brow line above the eyes. Also, drill your mounting holes in the cap/back first. once you are aligned on one side, mark through the cap hole onto the faceplate. Drill that out and fasten it temporarilly with a screw/nut. This will allow you to position the other side correctly. You may need to actually pull the cap over to get the gap between the brow trim and faceplate completely removed. Once you are positioned correctly and your brow sits even across the eyeline, mark your hole location. Drill that out and use another screw/nut combo to temporarilly fasten the cap and face together. Now you can check that you are TOTALLY HAPPY with the cap location on the face. If not, you can make small adjustments to the holes in the face or cap until you get things PERFECT. Once things are PERFECT, then rivet your cap and face together permanantly.

gloss gray...the same color as the gray on the ANH helmet details(tears and traps)

You'd figure that the guy is always yelling from the top of his soapbox about how accurate his stuff is.....you'd think he'd get the holster right.

Great looking armor, Brother!!!!! Really fits you well. Befror you go for Centurion, I would check, but the straps on the holster seem excessively wide. GORGEOUS BUILD!!!!

ATA usually gives two sets of ears in case somethinging goes wrong with the first set. If you need filler, I'd try again.

Great looking build there Darren! Always loved TM armor! Don't be surprised if you are asked for a few pics that may be missing. Centurion pics should include raised arm shots to see all the side details (rivets and male snap) There are a few shots of the helmet ("s" trim, green lenses) also..........jeez I hate to mention this about your power/ammo pack on the thigh. If I am not mistaken, the rivet should be applied more towards the upper corner and the bottom corner seems that it has been rounded a little excessively. Please don't take these suggestions as being picked on. This is Centurion after all. We all want you to look your best for your Garrison and the 501st!!! Good luck, brother! I did see your corrections and the EIB post that I didn't look at before. good luck!

Good for you!!!! Can't wait to see your build pics!!!

OOOPS

I just finished helping a trooper with his AP build. The ONLY problem that pops up is that the sniper plate sneaks under the bottom of the thigh when he walks. Solutions???

This is the kind of armor that makes people want to wear armor. I am at a loss for words!!

Sweeeeeet progress!!!! I can't wait to be by your side!!!!!!

I am helping a trooper this weekend who did the SAME thing on his AP build!!!. We are going to glue some scrap ABS to the back of the button plate to make it flush with the edges, then glue the whole thing onto a seperate piece of ABS and trim it to the correct reveal.

MAYBE.....RS Props. The picture is neither large enough or clear enough to get a real determination

Wow thanks, Andy!!! Could not have done it without referencing your Sterling CONSTANTLY!!!

--------- ---------- These were the two links I used to reference all the part locations

No more assuming....i put a tape to it. 4 inches exactly

If you are used to working with testors paints, humbrols are different. They need a MINIMUM of 6 hours dry time. And, if you apply the paint too thick, it will curl up in you. Multiple thin coats. DO NOT BAKE YOUR ARMOR!!!! I have had a great deal of success airbrushing with humbrol paints. (on the helmet traps and the thermal detonator) It sprays velvet smooth and dries to a crisp gloss. Brush painting needs to be handled differently

I cut the threads off a 1 X 6 galvanized nipple. So that would probably put it in the 4-4 1/2" range?

I didn't have a plan when going into that other than I was sure that I was going to use a nut, lock washer and screw combo. #1 I found a screw that would be long enough to thread into the charging handle then go through the outer shell of the barrel, then through the bolt itself and still be able to put a washer over it and thread a nut. As for the size of the screw itself and the hole I drilled...I picked a screw that fit within the bottom of the charging handle. Then chose a bit that was a tad smaller to allow the threads to cut into the resin. I did practice on some scrap plastic prior to make sure the drill bit was correct. .

Please tell me that's NOT your room!!!