gazmosis

that looks nice. I can't see for sure, but make sure you have that cap pulled tight against the face. There should be no gap or very, VERY little between the brow trim and the face. Make sure the front of the temple trapezoids align with the outer corner of each eye. Oh and Eric? Chicletesque???????? LMFAO!!!

http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/gallery/image/1355-star-wars-a-new-hope-bluray-capture-01-18/ If I miss anything, folks....I am still half asleep...My bad! Hey Richard!!!!!! Welcome! The link I posted is from the reference pics available on the home page here. Leia is being led by two TKs to be confronted by Vader. The TK on the right is the stunt and the left is the hero. The differences in materials at the time of shooting really does not apply here and now for us. But for us, the main differences are in the helmets. The first thing that should jump out at you are the eye lenses. The hero helmets had gray rounded or "bubble" lenses. The stunts were flat across the eye openings and really were not "lenses" at all but a green sheet of thin acetate plastic. The next thing is the mouth "frown". The hero helmets only has three (3) teeth cut out making for a smaller frown than the stunt helmets which had 4 sometimes 5 teeth cut out. But mostly 4. Some will point the next feature as a major difference however the reference pic would tell a different story. The brow trim of the Hero helmet as historically been depicted as being much lower than the stunt helmets showing little to no space between the top of the eye openings and the brow trim itself. Next is the sides of the helmets. The "ears" of the helmets were sculpted to cover the seam created by assembling the front and rear halves of the helmet. The center of these "ears" have a bumpy section known as rank bars. The hero helmets only had three bumps and the stunt helmets had 4. http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/gallery/image/1387-star-wars-a-new-hope-bluray-capture-01-50jpg/ The other main difference on the ears that you can see in this pic, is the amount of screws used to attach the ears to the helmet. The stunt helmets used three; one above AND below the rank bars and one at the underside at the bottom of the ear cover. The hero helmets used only one at the top of the rank bars and one at the bottom of the ear cover. 2 total. As for the armor itself, the only difference was the way the holsters were attached to the belts. 4 rivets or Chicago screws were used (2 for each strap). Only two total were used on the stunt suits. In regards to why someone chooses one or the other. Preference alone. Some just want their armor to be a little different. I hope this helps. If I missed anything, FISD, please correct me!!!!!

ABS adhesive like Plasti-weld is good but you need to be PRECISE where it goes with ZERO squeeze out. E6000 is really a no fail adhesive. Very strong and any squeeze out can be trimmed off and easily removed. Cutting can be done with any of the above mentioned tools but with snips, you should get the curved hobby scissors. If you use a razor knife, make sure your blade is new and sharp. if the tip breaks off, replace it. Keep the blade new. Paint your hovi tips at the same time you paint the vocoder on the helmet face. Both should be matte black. Not gloss, not flat. Mix approx. 2parts flat with 1 part gloss. The E-11 question is confusing me. The ABS barrel? Good luck!!!! Keep up on your research!!

Nice armor and nicer build!!!! When you take your time, beautiful things happen!!!! Well done!!!

Just curious...what are you going to use as an adhesive to connect the resin to the metal?

That is correct. There is still too much material between the end box and the end of the belt. Here is a side by side of two ATA kits. You can see on the right TK how much material is on the end of the waist belt and the TK on the left is trimmed.

AP is a good choice!

http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/11538-the-various-types-of-armor-and-where-to-find-them/For the exception of the boots, this armor will get you in the door, but with more research, you will find that you WILL be dumping the armor for something better. Thumb through the link I sent you. There you will find the list of the best armor dealers available here. This is an investment. Take your time and do your research before jumping to a decision. Buying armor that is already put together may seem convenient, but it comes with risks. You have no idea if it will fit you, you don't know the person who put it together and if they knew what they were doing, we usually tell anyone to avoid EBAY when it comes to armor purchases. That seller is a perfect example of why....it is FX armor which is LIGHTYEARS away form "movie accurate" as he claims. Trooperbay has been a seller of fine products here on FISD for years. He comes highly recommended.

ATA waist belts have always been longer at the ends. You just need to trim them down.http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/18407-question-about-plastic-portion-of-belt/ here are the specs

Clean out all the material between the teeth first. You can start by drilling but then hone the openings with jewlers files or an exacto knife. You will be left with a tiny sliver of exposed plastic between the teeth once everything is cleaned out. You will want to paint that along with the main face of each tooth.

Rounding the corners with the TD is for the power pack on the right thigh.

I didn't see it mentioned before, (if it was MYBAD!!!) but your belt should be trimmed on a prominent angle and the corners not just rounded off.

You are the stellar height and weight to make most armors look great. If you order this armor, get the "LITE" kit which comes without a helmet and order a more accurate helmet through one of the other armor makers (AP ATA RS TM) Although suits like RS and TM are a few dollars more, they are STELLAR armors that come completely accurate and will make you look like you walked right off the screen. I would recommend ATA any day of the week as well.....long waiting list, though

Yes, Trev. The Champaign and vodka are perks yes! At the 501st, we have a duty to those who come out to see us, to look as accurate as our knowledge and talents allow us to look. I NEVER want to hear, "something just doesn't look right." The only thing I want to hear is, "Mommy..I think he is a REAL Stormtrooper. One day, Trev, you might make a child's dream come true. Don't you want to look your best while doing that?? I know I do.

I'm not quite understanding your question in regards to the inward curve. With the forearms, the way they were originally sculpted, there was left and a right. They were not interchangeable. The finish strip ridge was on the top. I was trying to avoid this......but NE used an RS props suit for the base of their molds. This pic is from the RS propmasters site. It shows the original screen used left forearm next to one they are building. You can see that swoop on the topHere is a completed RS props set of armor, you can see the same swoop on the top of the left arm.I hope this helps

Um...I think you might be wearing the forearms on the wrong arms. The way these forearms are constructed, there is a finishing strip ridge on the top portion of both forearms molded into the plastic and no ridge on the bottom. These ridges are not straight and the left one is actually curved outward.....like I have circled.

Have fun, good luck and continue to do your research!

well........I would still like to know. I'm not just gonna throw them away. Thanks for that tool link,John.

Sorry about the pics....should be working now

Hello FISD!!! I would like to make an upgrade on my blaster. I have owned an M38 scope for a long time but have not been too keen on adding it to my blaster because it has no lenses (optics). I just came into an M47 scope in really good shape. As we all know, the M47's were never used and the only real difference between the 47 and the 38 is the red dot on the top and well......the numbers.Anyway. Since both scopes are practically identical, I didn't think it a big deal that the optics can be swapped but have never done that before. There is a slotted retaining ring around both front and rear of the scope. Before I go hacking away at this brass retaining ring, does anyone know of any special tricks that I might need to get these off and swap out the optics?

The entire inside should actually be white. Plan on painting the outsides of the mic tips at the same time you paint the vocoder on your lid. Both should be a matte black (not flat...not gloss) To achieve this, mix 2/3 flat black with 1/3 gloss black.

If this is for someone making you TK armor, the measurement should be around you at the fullest part so use your belly button as a mark that she tape should cross.

they are almost the same screw that you get with electrical outlet plates. 8-32 thread but don't buy those!!! the ones you need are flatter on top and tapered more from the top to the thread. the head is exactly 1/4 inch. YOu don't need to get brass. You are painting them so it doesn't matter if they are brass or straight metal.

People have bought this kit.

Always a pleasure to look at a gorgeous build!