pandatrooper

You should upgrade to RT-mod. His parts were specifically scaled up for bigger troopers. You could get his shoulder bells and thighs too, probably suit you better.

Yes, they are just vinyl. Just get cheap kind at a fabric store, no need to simulate real leather. The originals were kids sized motocross chest protectors. <br><br> Glad you like my scout build.

IMO they all look too leathery. The originals were just fabric backed vinyl. The middle orange is close to the correct color.

Trim to your pencil lines. The red ones are a bit too much.

Firstly, I still think you can trim that brow. Looking at your more recent pics, it still looks low to me. Take a look at my old helmet build. I used a straight strip of plastic to draw a pencil line. The trim line in my build is aligned with the rear ridge separating the dome and back. http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/14806-how-to-assembling-ata-abs-helmet-1/ Take a look at where I've drawn the black lines. In particular the height of the brow and where I cut off some of the "lumpiness" of the area around the ears and cheek tubes. I can see a few bumps where the back isn't sitting flush. You don't need any of the irregularities in that area because the ear covers it anyways. Of course, draw some pencil lines where you intend to trim and place the ear on top to double check first. Also, it looks like the clamps you're using through the eye openings are pushing things askew. I would suggest using small mini bar clamps since they offer a lot more clearance. Or consider using rare earth magnets. https://www.amazon.com/IRWIN-5462-Quick-grip-2-6-Inch-Clamps/dp/B00004YOBR Hope that helps.

Great work, love the hand crafting!

Please read my post again - carefully. Why should you ignore the fact that the inner bicep is sitting inside the outer? Like I mentioned, clean up all the trimming first because that looks honestly - quite awful. Test fit it again. Mark where the outer bicep overlaps the inner. Trim the outer vertically along this line. Reassemble it. Presto, the ridge has now moved closer to where the seam is (I'm guessing by 3/8") and the cover strip can be normally sized and used to cover the butt join. In your case it has to be where it is due to the formed lip.

Welcome! The Legacy female trooper / Jes Gistang is an approvable 501st costume. See CRL here http://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:Legacy_Trooper_Female Its got a feminine shape to it (I helped modify one for a local member) and its a great costume. KW designs / Imperial Surplus is a good seller as well. I would say most standard sized original trilogy TK kits could fit you. Eg: AP, ATA, Anovos etc. I also modified an RS kit for a local female trooper and we had to trim the thigh tops and backs, and the ab was a little long. She was about your size.

Firstly, trim those all those circumference edges so that they are clean and smooth. Use lexan scissors. Re test fit the bicep.<br><br> It looks like there is still overlap happening, the outer bicep is covering or overlapping the inner.<br><br> Mark on the outer where the overlap is, and trim the outer so that you have a butt join. Then you can determine how wide the cover strip needs to be.

Can you take a photo of the brow of the cap? It looks like you can trim it more.

Or buy some RT-mod or AM 2.0 biceps. They're bigger in diameter.

They look like line 24 size to me. Line 20 is a hair small.

On most of my builds, I use the 2 butt snaps as functional snaps. The front split rivet is just for looks, I glue a Tandy line 24 snap plate inside the cod since it's taken on and off so much. Just don't want to put that strain on the split rivet plus it's easier to undo that strap at the cod than the butt.

I've built AM1, AP, TMC, multiple ATAs and a few more. At 5 foot 4 I think trimming down an ATA is your best bet.

I have fount ATA to be quite short. Shorter than Anovos.

If glued correctly, no it's plenty strong.<br><br> Sand both surfaces, spread E6000 on both, let tack up. Join. Tape in place. Clamp. Wait 24hrs. Apply Velcro.

Keep in mind that armour thickness as it's manufactured is not the same thickness when it's vacuformed over a mold. It will stretch thinner.

A Hyperfirm blaster is cast as a solid single piece. Can't really be hollowed out. The outer it s a hard rubber skin and the core is some kind of foam. I believe there's a rod inside running the length of the blaster to give it rigidity.

They're sewn into loops.

Mine is a Plano bin but similar idea.<br><br>

There were plenty of vetted sellers before Anovos came along. Check the list for a maker that suits your needs.<br><br> <a data-ipb='nomediaparse' href='http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/11538-the-various-types-of-armor-and-where-to-find-them/page-1'>http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/11538-the-various-types-of-armor-and-where-to-find-them/page-1</a>

As long as it's secure and the snap material is not cheap, then it should be OK.<br><br> Specifically, check the female side with the ring and make sure the ring is strong. Cheap ones lose their "pop" after 10-15 pulls.<br><br> I use Tandy line 24 on numerous costumes. I actually called Tandy HQ because the new ones with the Tandy logo are really hard to snap. They said to just pop it on and off a few times.<br><br> I find if you do slow light taps with the hammer and standard setter And keep it dead straight, they set just fine. I prefer it to splay mine out but that's just personal preference. I've never had one fail.

Just trim it.

The RT-mod will fit you way better than the Anovos. Yes, they kidney and cod are separate. This is due to the size of the parts.

E6000 for most parts. Some ABS glues for quick set parts that don't need a lot of alignment.<br><br> I never use CA glues for armour. I find it doesn't have much give to it, but other builders seem to like it.