pandatrooper

I had to size down my AM armor - a LOT. ----------- The shins in particular were cut down quite a bit. I made the front screen accurate and used a 20mm cover strip. My legs are skinny enough that i could cut the back ridge off completely, and use another cover strip. The backs do not line up all once assembled, and required a heat gun to shape them (low heat running the gun over each side of the front cover strip while bending the shins shut in the back). Keep mind the proportions of your armor though. if you have bigger thighs but skinny calves, don't make the shins skin tight - it's going to look weird. I also think you should start a build thread and post pictures. It's much easier for us to help you this way.

Plastruct is plastic weld. It's a more runny version of cement used for ABS and styrene plastics for model making. While it's very effective, it takes practice to use it properly. I recently helped a new trooper in my garrison build his armor and he had a really hard time using it because you need to work fast. I would suggest E6000. It's proven to work. Sand both surfaces, spread the E6000 on both, let it tack up a couple minutes, then clamp overnight. Job done!

Humbrols are oil / solvent based, not water based. Never mix the two together. You can buy enamel paint solvent from hobby / paint / home reno stores.

I know people have been looking for the Hyperdyne card for a while. They don't stock it very often. Just keep your eyes peeled and you might find one. Keep in mind that it was designed for use in a Hasbro, not a "real" E-11, so the spacing of the LEDs and barrel holes are off (believe me, I checked). The Plecterlabs one is cool but it's also not often in stock. It requires you to solder everything and does not include LED's speaker, etc. Last option would be to make your own. There's lots of simple sound cards on ebay you could use to transfer an MP3 sound file to. Then install and wire your own LED's based on the trigger switch. This wouldn't have an LED array, but you could at least have a single Luxeon 3 at the base of the barrel, which is plenty bright. There's lots of build threads on FISD and elsewhere of great scratch built E-11s. The Blaster Builders forum is also a great resource, since many of the parts are done the same way - cut from flat sheet metal or aluminum. I know Vern TKBondservant had some plans he was selling that were more accurate in time of dimensions for the blaster, check with him if you want plans. The Hengstler and scope, you can try the buy and sell forum here or Ebay. Andy from the UK just unloaded a ton of counters and scopes, but you missed that sale by a few days. I saw these counters went up for sale this am http://www.therpf.com/f13/end-era-sale-hengstler-counters-107168/ Good luck in your build, and post pics!

I posted this a while back. I spoke to a Humbrol rep and they changed all the chemical formulas a couple years ago to remove "dangerous substances" which might be toxic, etc. This is why the colors look slightly different than the original ones and they are a thinner consistency as well. This is also why they take days to dry. I have switched over to Testors model master paints for helmets etc. as they are more consistent in quality and dry overnight.

Welcome back!

The shape is a bit different (the face, the cap and back are the same or similar). And the stunt has a more pronounced eye bump under the right eye. You could smooth out the eye bump (heat and bend it down), fill in the furthest left and right tooth gap (glue plastic from inside), paint a smaller pointier frown, add 3 bump hero ears and add bubble lenses.

Very nice work, clean build and a great selection of helmets! A+

Is the mold a silicone mold, or a resin master? if it's a silicone mold, usually the first couple pulls will pull out some of the silicone since the resin is sticky.

Make them snug fit. Far too many people make the thighs way too big. I personally prefer butt join instead of overlap. It just looks better. The VT thighs don't align well. My advice is to align the top on the right thigh, and don't worry about the bottom since the ammo strip covers the lower thigh. On the left align the bottom and trim / adjust the top to match. For the boots, put an insole inside.

How to attach lenses http://forum.whitearmor.net/index.php?showtopic=14185&pid=172175&st=0entry172175 My suggestion for the cod and butt: you've cut the cod but don't tuck it under the ab. If its too long trim the top inch off. The AM butt isn't curved under enough. Heat the poity part and curve it under the crotch more. Make sure the thighs are as small in circumference as possible. If they are too big they will interfere with the cod, etc. Also, trim away the return on the ankles. It messes up the sizing and you don't need it.

Juan, I haven't read all the posts above in detail but have you already seen this series of videos? --------------- I recall that in one of these videos, they show the helmets being unpacked from crates. One of the producers or something got to put on the costume and be an extra in the SE.

Glad i could help out.

Jimmy, I might sounds like a broken record here - but read the tutorials. They were written specifically to help people just starting out, specifically with info on overlap / butt join methods. There is detailed information within the tutorial and links to other builds, etc. http://www.whitearmor.net/home/tutorials/armor-tutorials/arms.html In regards to the bicep, as Tkittell mentioned, match up the bottom edge and don't worry about the top since the shoulder might cover it. The VT kit was recast from AP armor, so there are some parts that do not fit perfect. You can either choose to leave them with the parts misaligned, trim off the excess, or use a heat iron to blend the plastic back into shape.

Stunt ears have 4 bumps, hero has 3 bumps. Might be up to your local GML, but I also thing buying and trimming new ears would make things easier (if you wanted to go EIB later). T.

There are plans in the works along these lines. Stay tuned.

Ata has just announced a cost effective Abs version of their kit ------ you should contact the makers directly for pricing.

The Sharpie paint pens suck. Streaky and they leave a strange appearance. I also found that the solvent they used liquifies the grey paint unerneath. I just switched back to using a brush and cutting the paint (paint the black perimeter first and only focus on the outside edge. After it dries cut in the grey and fill it in).

I use lexan scissors for trimming RC cars. I find they cut through ABS very quickly. Some people "score and snap" with a hobby knife, but I only use that for straight cuts. As stated, refer to the tutorials and build threads, they all have very detailed photos. Most of the armor that's derived from TE2, AP, ATA, Cap W, TMC etc are all trimmed the same (depending on your size). Study the build threads and draw pencil lines first. If you're not sure, post a photo of the pencil line BEFORE you cut it.

Can you take some photos from a front view (tape them together in terms of what you think a complete left and right are).

Couldn't you simply paint the details on the ears? Add a black outline and a rank stripe.

Quality stickers don't really wear out that quickly. I think they are quick and effective method of detailing a helmet. Painting the details is harder, but makes it easier to replicate a specific helmet or look. If you aren't comfortable with painting, just get stickers - they are more than acceptable for most (not all) helmet builds. Personally, I have painted the details including tube stripes on my last 5 helmets, and have been pleased with the results. But as Gary stated, it depends on the look you're going for.

Pretty much everyone turns their head sideways

I would just shim it. In regards to the forearms, just cut off the return in the wrist area (screen accurate) and keep the forearms glued shut.

Hi Jimmy, please read the tutorials here. They contain the dimensions for the cover strips and should have most if not all the info you need for your build. http://www.whitearmor.net/home/tutorials/armor-tutorials.html VT is a recast of mostly AP parts, so you can refer to any of the AP builds for info.