pandatrooper

Simple trick: Mark the areas where you will score with a pencil / ruler or plastic strip first. Take the pencil and write "EXCESS" on the plastic you intend to remove. Score and snap. If you don't see the words "EXCESS" on any parts, you're done. Don't cut or score anything more.

http://www.whitearmor.net/home/crl-overview/crl-anh-stunt.html

I find it's fine for a connection, I've never had a failure. I like the ability to tweak the length a little each time before committing. You can do the snap to snap elastic too, you just need to be more critical with the length, or don't glue one of the snaps down until the sizing is perfect.

Looking great! Keep up the good work.

Use a fine tip paint pen if you have to. Don't use a Sharpie, it will not be a very opaque line and the color of the black has a weird sheen to it. I would still paint the whole thing black, then do the grey. Much easier to maintain a sharp consistent line that way. =====

Blue tape is higher tack and yields a sharper line than green. Make sure to use several light coats as opposed to one or two heavy coats to avoid bleeding. Practice on a scrap piece of plastic first if you havent tried this technique before!

Here's how I modified a set of AM shoulders which are pretty much the same as FX shoulders. -----------------

What type of armor is it?

Interesting idea. "Let me just reach into my thighs..." One some troops I have used a pouch inside the ab armor (for keys and wallet and things I don't need right away) or a small pouch on the belt. Just one small but important tip. Keep rare earth magnets far away from anything electronic especially LCD screens, computers, phones, etc. You can easily destroy the screen with magnets.

Keep in mind that those are photos of a helmet from 30 years ago, and perhaps it's faded, etc. Eg: some of the helmets are very yellow now, yet they probably weren't as yellow back then during filming. It entirely depends on if you're trying to replicate a specific trooper or helmet. Keep in mind that if you make them "too green" and you're going for EIB or Centurion, I don't know if that will affect the pass or not. Most people pick the Humbrol as that was the brand that was commonly available at the time during film production in the UK. The Testors French blue is the closest match for their brand.

You can use glue or screws or bolts to hold the stock on at the hinge point at the back. The front can just be glued to the lower receiver, but you could also put a screw through one of the holes under the stock.

Some helpful threads here from one of our FISD newsletters a while ago Transporting Armor Every few months, the topic arises of "How do you transport your armor?" Here's some helpful links with suggestions for cases, storage bins, etc. ----------

Width is approx 4 3/8" for these stripes, but keep in mind that there are more stripes on this strip than required. It will depend on if you're trying to replicate a specific helmet (specific number of stripes) and the amount of space between the ears and the end of the cheek tube that can help you determine how many stripes you need.

They've always said they were "hand painted" but looking at the various photos I think they at least used masking tape to keep the top and bottom of the lines sharp, then just used a 1/8" flat brush or the like and "hand painted" the stripes, then peel the tape off. That's what makes them look irregular and uneven. Templates like this just make it a little easier and less chance of screwing up your lid or making the lines TOO crooked, etc.

I have a 30" inseam I can walk just fine with no notches on TE / tour suit derived. If you've already notched them and they still hard to walk in, you could trim the tops? Do you have a photo of yourself in them? Wouldn't want to sacrifice the look too much for comfort (need to create a balance).

Right here ----------

Here's some tube strip masking templates if you want to cut your own. I made these in Adobe Illustrator from scratch, they are not based on any specific trooper or design. Print them out to size, then place them on top of sign vinyl, etc. Cut through the paper and vinyl (ideally without cutting through the vinyl backing paper) and simply weed out (remove) the inner bits on the vinyl to create the template. You can use sign vinyl, masking tape or airbrush frisket. Use a sharp Exacto / hobby blade. Here's how I paint them: http://whitearmor.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=14806&view=findpost&p=179529 When printing these out, they should be 13/16" (@16mm) tall. Modified version, front stripes fall forward Paint options http://whitearmor.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=8117

You have to remove the sleeve on back by pulling them straight off. The back one has a slot inside to prevent it from spinning. I used a hobby blade and small flat screwdriver to pry it apart and break the glue seal, then pull it off.

Can we get a sound off from Hpdblues and Femtrooper Julie in Hawaii? Hope they are doing OK as well. My thoughts go out to our friends in Japan as well.

Make sure you sand the area you are gluing (both surfaces) before spreading the E6000. It will be a much stronger bond. For the forearm you can trim most of the return off the wrist before assembly. Yes its fine if you need to work your hand through.

Glad you guys find it helpful!

Did some more of these pop up? http://cgi.ebay.com/STAR-WARS-501ST-LEGION-CHALLENGE-COIN-SILVER-FREE-S-H-/260748507819?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cb5d27aab#ht_500wt_1156

Most people have concluded that they are a tip / internal from a 70's British faucet fixture. To paint the tips, I usually wash them with detergent, flip them face down and stick them on some masking tape, spray with Satin Krylon.

Goo gone works great for removing residue.

Not too sure what you mean? The rivets under the ears are just 1/8" rivets.