pandatrooper

I believe ANH stripes were hand painted but with masking tape at the top and bottom. To me, this explains why the front facing corners are so sharp yet the spacing and thickness isnt (probably due to the brush and painters skill). I have used vinyl stencils on painted helmets just fine. Imo its more how you apply them. I tend to trim more of the vinyl off the edges so it curves to the surface better. But as stated, you're going to have a hard time if your stuck on using full size spray cans. Just hand paint them and save yourself the trouble.

The Krylon fixative has solvents that are melting the adhesive in the paint stencils. If you hand cut them and they aren't sharp clean cuts, and if the edges aren't pressed down, the solvent will leak underneath. The reason why airbrushing works better than brush paints or even spray cans is because the spray is finer and there can be a higher air to paint ratio. One trick to try if you don't have an airbrush: see if Testors or another hobby brand comes in the correct blue in the smaller spray cans. The can and nozzle for hobby spray cans are designed to have a finer spray for scale models, unlike Krylon or Rustoleum size which is meant for larger objects. The trick: immerse the can in warm water for a few mins. This will increase the pressure in the can which will result in a finer spray. Apply the template in place and mask off the entire helmet and paint the tube stripes with the smaller spray can. 2 coats with light passes should do. If this sounds like too much, just mask lines for the top and bottom and brush paint each stripe by hand.

I think picture 2 is closer to screen used (dont tilt it so much). Its Ok to have a little gap. Just a heads up that if you want to go for Centurion in the future, you may want to glue the knee plate on for a seamless look. Just an option for you to consider.

You also want the front of the shoulder bridges low enough on the chest plate so that they are almost in line with the neck opening. This is usually several ribs into the bridge. A lot of people mount them too high. Look at screenshots for reference.

Very nice!

Cnn confirms that US Navy Seals were involved. http://www.cnn.com/2011/WORLD/asiapcf/05/02/bin.laden.raid/index.html Michael Biehn and Charlie Sheen probably led the assault.

Nice work Mark as always, great photos too!

Internet rumor has it that it was a Navy Seal team of some kind or CIA based.

To me, it looks like the chaffing is being caused by the sharp corners on the notches and length of the thighs. I would round the corners slightly and sand them. You could also line the inside of the back of the shin with some 3/8" thick weatherseal foam to create a small gap to prevent the back of the shin from biting the back of your knee. A more involved mod would be to cut an inch off the top of the thighs and add a return edge. You could also take the opportunity to add ANH style notches in the thigh tops.

Watching the video, I realized what is wrong. You're heating the wrong spots and not holding the shin correctly. You don't really need the clamps if you already have the front cover strip glued on. Secondly, you should be pressing the calf to the shape you want and even a little beyond that. You can close the back and tape it shut. Lastly, youre heating the wrong spots! I think I already mentioned this but you shouldn't be heating the calf area. You should be running the gun along either side of the front cover strip. This is the fulcrum point of where you want to bend it. This will increase the angle greatly and allow the shins to close. You also need to heat the upper return lip slightly, as it creates an I beam effect preventing the bend. Hope you get my drift.

Glad you like it. I created the templates. I described how they were created in the first few paragraphs.

Thanks Angela for posting this, what a surprise! Your cheque is in the mail. Seriously though, it feels great to be appeciated by the garrison and this detachment. Many thanks to everyone for the kudos!

You can trim away the return at the wrists. The top you can leave a little if you like. You can probably trim a little more at the top of the forearm. Tip: Dont try to make such long cuts with the scissors. Make very small little "squeezes" and maneuver the scissors to create a smoother line. Your cuts are a little ragged and will need to be smoothed out or re trimmed. You can save yourself a lot of work with careful trimming and doing it in one pass. Also, always test fit with your undersuit on. Using a hoodie is too thick! If you need help tomorrow, I have an hour or so in the morning I can help you draw some trim lines.

I need to ask you to do this detachment a couple favours. 1. Please title your post topics with english that people can understand. You're going to get a lot more help that way. 2. Please use the search function. There are several threads regarding different approaches to purchasing and making bubble lenses. Much appreciated.

No exact measurements but good pics here. -----------

Squeeze the sides of the shins beyond the position you want, turn on the heat gun and hold it about 5" above the shin on one side of the outer ridge. Run it back abd forth. I usually find on low that my heat gun can soften the plastic in less than 60 seconds. If its not working, try high heat and hold the gun further away. If that doesnt work hold the gun closer.

I tend to use satin black.

Congrats Rob! After you take some good pics, you apply by sending in your online application here. http://www.501st.com/databank/Membership:JoinUs The GML from the UK garrison would contact you via email requesting your photos to review. Good luck!

Fantastic work as always Pete!! Looks great.

Congratulations! Awesome work.

Heres the law re: replicas. These were revised in the last few years due to realistic airsoft replicas being imported into Canada and used in crimes (yes, that really happens). ----------- Note the area re: crossing borders with replicas. If you bring one out you can't bring it back in. In regards to people getting their stuff seized, yes i know people who have had airsoft stuff seized, they are black listed and questioned by customs every time and are not allowed to ship import anything of that kind. Every package you ever ship or receive will be opened and inspected going forward. As stated, best to let sleeping dogs lie.

I pack my E-11 in my storage trunk with my costume. I explain at the border that I am attending the con in Seattle and they haven't asked to check the contents to date (knock on wood). If they do, just explain to them that it's a "toy laser blaster". Do not use the words gun, replica, firearm, etc. I do not bring my T-21 over the border. I have heard of people getting their blasters seized when crossing the border, but it was with large BFG weapons. Again, just be careful and honest with customs when crossing the border. Importing is a whole different issue.

It wont work clamped. Glue it shut first, let it cure. Make sure to heat beside the frobt seam, not the seam itself.

You need to heat up the shins by running a heat gun slowly along either side of the front seam (have gun on low holding it about 5-6" away from the plastic anx keep it constantly moving) while holding the shins and pressing the rear sides together to minimize the gap. You may need to pull one side up or down to get the rear top edges to align. Only after you have closed the sides should you trim the lower inside ankle edge so that the length is the same.

If you're trying to separate an E-6000 bond. - heat the area gently with a heat gun or hair dryer, this will soften the glue / bond - I run a 3/4" flat chisel between the 2 parts - pry the cover strip off - repeat inside with inner shim or overlap, etc. - remove all the of the remaining E-6000 before doing a light sanding / trim / re-glue I don't know what plastic that armor is, but if it's styrene or ABS, you can easily repair it. I would personally use a small plastic shim underneath, join the split with plastic weld from the inside, then glue the shim in place. Good luck!