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Hello and welcome aboard. You may find this thread very helpful A great way to get feedback and hints on your build is to post a build thread, for ANH Stunt go here https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/80-anh-build-threads/ Good luck with the build

Well… not entirely sure how to intro this update, other than with a quick before and after. Before: After: So… all I have to say is: don’t attempt acetone vapor smoothing while dozing off in the evening. I unfortunately left the posterior plate sitting in my Home Depot tote overnight and woke up to… well… that. The piece has completely lost its complete structural integrity, and even after sitting out of the tote for the past nine hours (in an attempt to "solidify"), it can still be folded into a ball (I’m honestly not even sure how I managed to take this photo). I can’t say I’m entirely surprised, but this was a good (and expensive) experiment to say the least. Here’s what I’ve learned so far: Acetone smoothing is a slow burn (no pun intended?), but when you get the timing right, it’s absolutely worth it. YouTube tutorials are… not really tutorials. They’re more “this worked for me, but I won’t tell you all the things I’m leaving out.” ASA seems to take longer to soften than ABS (at least in my experience). ASA can either come out beautifully smoothed—or end up… like the photos above. Now with that said, I did have one "success" from this process: the new kidney plate. (Yes, the print failed a bit early, but this is all covered by the rear belt! *phew*) I probably left it in a touch too long, as it started to soften more than I’d like, and the stainless rack left a few small grooves—but those are easy fixes. The big win here is that while it still looks wavy, the surface is actually incredibly smooth. I’m genuinely confident that with some very light sanding, this might be one of my cleanest prints yet. The biggest takeaway, though, is just how strong this piece feels now. With some of my other parts, I’ve been able to flex them just enough to hear the infill starting to separate—but this process essentially fused all of the layers and infill together. That’s exactly what I want, especially for a part like this. But, because I enjoy documenting my own mistakes almost as much as making them, I also managed to melt the outermost ammo boxes. All of that to say: I’m now reprinting the posterior armor for the third time… and I’ll be keeping a much closer eye on anything sitting in a sealed tote full of acetone from here on out. I have spoken.

Hi Graeme, Thank you for your EIB application. Your armour looks great and you are very close to Expert Infantry approval. We will just need a couple fixes before we can go ahead and approve you. Forearm Armour Your forearms are sitting a bit high creating a large gap between the lower end of the forearm and the hand guard. For a more screen accurate look, the distance between the biceps and forearm should be the same as the distance between the forearm and the hand guard. This will likely just require a slight strapping modification. Alternatively, the entire biceps and forearm pieces may be lowered to reduce the gap at the wrist. References Thermal Detonator The control panel on your thermal detonator should be facing straight back, yours has a slight upward tilt to it. This can be corrected by slightly opening up the curve on the bracket to "roll" the thermal detonator downward slightly. References