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What's FISD without a little April 1st humor, troopers? :) @Sly11 you're pretty correct on the date, this was taken in 2005, the year I joined, and is indeed one of my approval pictures from back in the day.

File Name: Imperial (Death Star) Lamp Designer: user_2326983067 Last Update: 03/04/2026 File: https://makerworld.com/en/models/2613777-star-wars-imperial-death-star-lamp-for-mote?from=search Description: Remix of Death Start lamp. Resized to print on an anycubic mega S - work in progress for lighting see https://shop.pimoroni.com/products/mote?variant=26218196871 Watch me as I assemble the lamp during a light test: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DoRykKlD7Ns *****UPDATE***** Added simple box for mote host Category: 3D Printing Images:

Well, that's it. I've had it with this place and the 501st in general. All the politics, bickering. People putting me down all the time. I just submitted my brand new TK and it got rejected. I mean, come on. What's wrong with it? I'll soon be selling all my stuff - props, coins, patches. I'm *done*.

Love back at you Luca :)

Im playing around with the eyes a lot as I was given some critique to bring the thickness you mention down a bit. So many different variables that interplay and throw others off. Havent forgotten about the bump but as its an asymetric feature I have to add that last.

I ordered 3D files from Galactic Armory. I friend of mine printed them for me, mostly in back, but the bipod was grey. The bipod legs and the main housing were too big for the printer so they had to be printed in two separate parts. I sanded everything down. The print lines were vey fine so the sanding wasn't overwhelming. I used some scraps from my RO TK build to make inserts that I put inside the bipod legs in order to support them when I cemented them together with J-B Weld. I also cemented the main housing piece together. For both of them, I used some Bondo Spot Putty to fill the small seam. Once sanded, I first primed the inner barrel with Rust-oleum flat gray. I then painted them with Rust-Oleum flat black. I knew that once the barrel was built, it would be difficult to fully paint those inner barrels. I then primed all the pieces of the outer barrel and the main housing and stock. I built the two pieces (front barrel and housing/stock) and painted them flat black. I then used pure graphite powder and brushed it onto all the "metal" parts except the stock. I left that flat black. In order to make travel easier, I left the two main parts as separate pieces. I used two pieces of 1/2 inch aluminum tube and a 3/8 inch solid aluminum rod to make an insert to stabilize the blaster and to give it a little more weight. I put a rubber stopper down the front of the barrel so the aluminum rod would not slip out. I also made the rod into two parts, one with the aluminum rod glued into the tube and an additional tube that slid over about 7 inches of exposed inner rod. Together they fit into the inside of the blaster. The completed DLT19 was approved for use by my GMLs. It's good to go for New Hampshire Comic Con with the New England Garrison this coming weekend!

I did some weathering and added a bakelite finish to the blaster. For the weathering of the metal, I used Rub 'n Buff Pewter for the majority and Rub 'n Buff Silver Leaf in about four spots that would get a little more wear. For the bakelite weathering, I used Rust-Oleum warm caramel as the undercoat. I then used the toothpaste method and did the top coat with Rust-Oleum satin espresso. I'm pretty happy with the results. I ordered the craft wire and will add that to the T-tracks in the future.

Very nice, you could take it to the next level with some wire on the T-tracks and paint the butt similar to bakelight wiring references bakelite references Couldn't quite make out if you have the ridged plate on the rear of the stock and screw