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Hi everyone Since a few years I wanted to build a lifesize Darth Vader display for my living room. In May 2020 things got serious and the build was then completed in less than one year (April 2021). Running a WIP thread was not on my list, but I had taken photos of some build stages to do a rough one now. In places it might feel a bit rushed, so here is how it all turned out... Part list: Dome: TM Facemask: TM Armor: 80s ESB/ROTJ Tour Cast Chestbox: Darth Rosso & FenixProps Shin Guards: Korbanth Cod Piece: Dark Shadow Boots: orig. WWII Wehrmacht Offizier Cape Set: KevVader Leather Suit: FenixProps Belt: Paul Walsh Belt Boxes & Buckle: Dark-Side Gloves: Endor Finders Ligthsaber: Parks Sabers Saber Hook: self-made My friend Nick @Darth Niob had an 80‘s ESB/ROTJ Tour armor plus TM dome for me (both already painted) and arranged a suiting TM facemask from Paul Walsh in the UK. Paul had kindly sent that mask straight to Juan Fernandez in Puerto Rico for finishing. I used the meantime to focus on gathering the other parts and the mannequin. From my lifesize Stormtrooper display I already had a good experience with a specific type of mannequin and bought a similar one again. Of course it had to be modified heavily, to match Dave Prowse‘s dimensions. Meanwhile the facemask from Juan had arrived and as I had expected, the colors did not match the chest armor. Both pieces sit too close on the mannequin to oversee that fact. Luckily Juan had told me what colors he used, so I was able to buy them and repaint the chest armor. Now the colors match perfectly. Was quite happy with how Vader now looked and placed the mannequin in the living room. Not on the photos: a tiny bluetooth speaker is located right behind the front mesh of the facemask. When playing the ‘breathing sound‘ it is quite cool to have it coming straight from there.

As part of the work on our web hosting we are moving the domain to a new registrar. This has been requested and when it happens may cause a period of down time. I will update once this is completed.

Congratulations trooper, updated EI Honor Gallery image

@TheRascalKing Hi Justin, Congratulations again. Do we have your permission to post your approval on FISD social media?

Hi Justin, and thank you for your EIB application! CRL and EIB Application Requirements: All required photos have been submitted, and on behalf of the entire D.O. staff we are pleased to welcome you to the rank of Expert Infantry. Congratulations! Other-Armor Fit/Assembly; In this area we review observations made by your fellow troopers and the DO team. Some observations may lead to suggestions to improve the overall look of your armor, and please keep in mind that we consider both text (CRL) and pictures (screen caps/reference images) when reviewing submissions. When kitting up, make sure to pay attention to where your belt is sitting to ensure that it is covering the lower tabs of the abdomen. References With respect to your under suit, there are areas where it is appearing to be wrinkled. A tighter fit would improve the screen accuracy. References Your blaster looks great but there are a few details seen on the screen used ones that you may want to add. On the right side of the blaster, there are some white line details. Reference On the left side of the blaster, the mounting plate details should be silver. Reference The sight at the front of the barrel should also be silver Reference *************************************************** Centurion Requirements: In this section we prepare you for our highest tier of approval. Because Centurion photos must show more detail than EIB, items pertaining to Level 3 might be seen there and not here and additional photos may be required. We try to point out all that we can from what we are able to clearly see, but the final accuracy is the responsibility of the trooper. For Centurion Approval, we would need to have the fabric elbow and knee gaskets changed out for rubber ones. CRL L3: Gaskets shall be made of rubber. Fabric gaskets are not acceptable.

Great looking Helmet!

I decided to drill out the recessed sections on the tube stripes and add a blue section underneath. I drilled them with four or five holes using a Dremel. I then used the same bit to remove the small amount of remaining material between the holes. Afterwards, I used two files to sand down the openings. I then used 400 grit sandpaper to clean up the openings. In order to drill the final three stripes at the rear of the tube, I removed the clamps that snap the front of the helmet to the back of the helmet. They have two small screws and are easily removed. I also hollowed out the inside of the helmet under the stripes so that eventually I can lay the blue underneath and have it lay flat behind the hollow stripes. I still have a little cleanup but they are 95% finished.

Very nice. Very comprehensive build.

From memory most of those seams you highlighted should remain, but do check the CRL and the reference images. The key ones that need to be filled are the 2 on each side of the abdomen armour and the two shoulders. I don't believe any more than that needs to be filled. I would also suggest you smooth out some of the trim lines to make a nice clean line as in a few places the cuts are a bit uneven.

Kev Vader is the go-to for cape sets. trust me, I know!

Amazing work!

1.) Acetone- Is this the same whether I get this from Home Depot or from CVS in the nail polish section? The CVS version say "100% Acetone" so I don't know if there a different with using either one. No it is not, I only found one source locally that would melt the plastic scraps, trial and error I'm afraid 2.) Slurry paste- What is the ratio of abs scrap pieces to acetone mixture? What is the mixture texture quality supposed to look like?......toothpaste.?....thick gravy type?.....stiff putty? Add acetone as needed 3.) How long does it take for scrap abs and acetone to sit before it's ready? How long is the slurry good for after it's ready or does it need to be used right away as soon as the abs is melted? Usually from a few hours, I normally leave overnight, if you keep in an airtight jar it can last a long time. 4.) Am I supposed to fill in the seams in the yellow areas of the pictures attached to cover them up entirely or to use just enough to close out the gap when i glued the pieces together? I know there is not supposed to be any seams visible on the yolk/harness chest and back pieces assembly and the abdomen piece. Not sure about the other pieces. I would advise have a look through the CRL https://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TK_-_First_Order and gallery https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/gallery/category/20-fotk-reference/ Sides of abdomen and tops of yoke/chest need filling. Justin has a nice build to follow and uses ABS paste These need filling (use thin coats of ABS paste to reduce air bubbles when drying) 5.) For those ammo boxes, do the seams need to be filled in or is it OK to have a slight gap? OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): The seams between the abdominal armor and the 7 boxes should not be filled.

Very nice

That's a great document John! Thank you for sharing!

However, I always felt there is something missing to make that Vader look more fearsome and terrifying. So I thought of a Star Wars-styled base… The camera did not get the colors right but in reality there is a clear difference between the amber and the red. Just look at the wall to the left of the base. Anyway, as this is an ANH Vader, I tend to use the white light most of the time. And here is how it all looks during daytime.

After looking around the net and asking people at events I probably buy a new uniform from rspropmasters or a used one from someone who's willing to sell ?