Leaderboard

Hi Mark!!! Yes, I think you can sand the big plate a little more (those buttons look great!!!). Reference images Regarding the other one, I think that trimming the bottom part a little will solve the problem. Reference images You’re doing a really good job!!!

I still have to get the suspenders in and I feel like the chest plate can come up a hair. But the torso looks good to me where it's at. I will only have to trim about an inch off the top and that lease plenty under the chest. The side will have to get trimmed down.

Thanks Glen. I'm beginning to see the light at the end of the tunnel. I can't wait to submit in the pre-approval section and eventually submit to my GML. My goal is to get Centurion this go around.

Looking good, I suggest to most about double snaps in high stress areas, one of those is the shoulder bells to shoulder straps, I had one fail at a troop and having a spare there allowed me to still be able to troop. It's a little more expense and work but can save you in the long run. Saying that some with single snaps have a trouble free run as may you Getting to the strapping and kitting up time soon, this is where you start feeling like a stormtrooper and find how restricting in can be

Made some progress on my TK. I glued the back cover strips on my thighs. Got the snaps glued in the torso, drilled the hole for the cod, and put snaps in the butt plate. I trimmed the extra material from around the shoulder bridges, and put the curves on the Ammo knee. I think I will have to redo them though. When I was checking the fit, there was excess material on the sides that passed the ridge. Once the cover strips are dry on the thighs I will measure it, and cut the width so it fits the area better. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I suggest having a look at this thread Also here is a thread on converting the Black Series helmet

Thanks @Chemi. I will sand them down more.

Good morning. Today will be a fun work day on this Stormtrooper of mine. I plan on gluing snaps into place, as well as try to finish my legs. I still have to work on removing some material from my sniper knee, but I have to re-tape the lines where I want to cut. I started fine tuning the ab buttons. I think I may have removed a bit too much on the bottom left side. I will work on sanding the big plate down as I feel it is still too large. I did use the diagram below but mine still seems off. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Trimming to the pencil line you have drawn looks pretty darned good to me. Some were rounder than others, but I would have no issues with passing that at Centurion! When it comes time to attach the ammo pack to the thigh I have a few suggestions if I may: 1. Make sure that the rivets are not too close to the corners. 2. It should not be an issue at Basic and is not specifically listed in the CRLs but traditionally for Level 3 we have required that the rear edges of ammo pack be an equal distance from the "corners" of the ridge at the rear. 3. As for the height it sits at in the front, the majority had it either angled up, covering the front ridge completely as seen in pic 1, just enough to cover the bottom of the ridge (pic 2) and there were a VERY few that had it lower than the ridge (pic 3). Version 3 may pass at Basic, but for higher levels we look for the "ideal" trooper and there can be no gap. Lastly, the amount of ABS you leave above an below the boxes is up to you. As seen below some had more, some had less. What you have at present is just fine, and I wouldn't suggest trimming it down as it provides some strength and will help prevent any cracks. Hope this helps, and keep the questions and photos rolling in!

Bryan, all thanks to you. The resin printer was a pretty good investment, but it just makes me want an even bigger one. Lol.

Thanks, @gmrhodes13. You would think that I would have remembered to look there.

Facebook link Oh and other contact info in this thread Darkside Closet is another good vendor but you will have to wait currently @ 6 months if not longer

So getting back to it: The first thing I wanted to do is highlight @gmrhodes13's tip about using a black overspray to find low spots: I touched on this briefly, but in the automotive paint world, this is referred to as a guide coat. If you look around the internet, you'll find a lot of products that are specifically formulated for these type applications, but for costumes, I really don't think we need to go so far as to buy these specific coats. As Glen indicated, a very light mist of black works just fine. However, when I use a guide coat, I like to use sandable primer for ease of removal. Rustoleum's black seems to do the trick just fine, but really any kind will get the job done. Also, if you choose to use a regular paint instead of the sandable primer, it does have a way to find even the smallest low lying areas including pinholes. Since this is an automotive trick, you can imagine that it's generally used on larger semi-flat surfaces during the "blocking" phase. This is an excellent trick for gentle curving areas such as the chest, thighs, shoulder bells, helmet dome and things of that nature, but if you try it on items such as the back armor or objects that have more of an ornate design, there's just a few areas you're going to have difficulties getting into to sand out. Regardless, here's the steps I followed for the chest armor: First the tools. I went to Amazon and picked up a 3M Hookit Soft Interface Pad and an assortment of sanding discs ranging from 80-2000 grit. The benefit of using the interface pad is it allows you to apply light even pressure to the surface without pressing in with your fingertips. These are typically used with an orbital sander, but also afford similar benefits of a sanding sponge, but to me it seems a lot more versatile. To get started, I lightly ran the 400 grit over the filler primer just to flatten out the surface. As you can see from my picture, even doing this lightly, you still have to be careful of the edges. However, since this is still at the filler primer stage, I'm not as concerned as I would be if this were my base coat. I then "dusted" it with the sandable primer which resulted in this: Just looking at the first picture, it doesn't look like I did much more than just speckle the primer, but in reality, by holding the can back about 2.5 feet away from the surface, the entire chest "fogged" over with a light black film as seen in the second. I stuck with the 400 grit and lightly sanded the surface, again paying attention to applying light even pressure over the entire part and not pressing with my fingertips. In this picture of my first pass, you can see how I primarily stuck to the flat surfaces and avoided the edges which left the black resting in the low spots. However, after a few more passes, sanding in one direction, I was left with what appeared to be a very flat surface which was ready for primer sealer. I also performed this step on my arm pieces which revealed a lot more low spots than this chest. Additionally, since I reformed the resin bicep the night prior, after spraying it with filler primer, a few crack appeared that I didn't notice previously. I didn't take pictures of how I reformed the biceps, but since resin manipulation has come up in other posts this week, the process was pretty simple. Basically, I soaked the resin pieces in hot water for about two minutes, then held it in place until it cooled. Of course, this small open piece is easier than a helmet, but it's the same idea. Just take your time. Also, in the second picture, it looks like there's an enormous crack on the inside, but that's just how the bicep is shaped. For the cracks, I debated what the best way to fill them would be. I thought about using more resin, or wood filler, but ultimately, since they were relatively small, I opted for Spot and Glaze putty. I filled the cracks, resprayed them with filler primer, gave them a light sanding and was left with this: Here's a shot of the inside of the bicep. After taking this picture, it dawned on me that I forgot to fill those little cracks, so I'll take care of that tonight. Honestly it's not a big issue, but I know they're there. --EDIT-- I just went out there, sanded down the large crack, and sprayed it with filler primer. Totally smooth now. Ok. Sealer primer. I've said those words a few times, and even posted a picture to the FISD Facebook group, but haven't really talked about it too much. Primer sealer is simply a thin primer coat that's formulated to fill in any remaining scratches and seal porous surfaces as a final prep for your base coat. I haven't used it on any of my costumes previously, but started entertaining the idea when I decided to use an automotive 2k paint for my Deathtrooper and 2k clear on this costume. Essentially, if I'm going to spend that kind of money on paint, I want the surface as perfect as I can get it prior to laying down my base. So, after a round of filler primer, light 400 sanding, guide coat, light 600 sanding, cleaning and tack rag, I started sealing my parts right as it was getting dark. Don't forget to show some love to the inside of your armor. And of course, I muffed up the chest a little bit. Not a big error, but I made one mistake when I was applying the sealer. As I stated, this stuff does apply much smoother than most primers, especially filler or sandable primer which you can pretty much glob on. So, if you use it, you have to keep moving in a smooth even motion until the part is covered. The best way I heard this described was on a Paint Society Youtube video where Brian (the host) said "robots don't stop, so neither should you." Keep in mind that he's speaking about painting car panels, but his tips are priceless when it comes to just laying down paint regardless of it's source. For what we do, he's got plenty of videos of getting professional results from rattle cans, which is essentially the guide I'm following with this build. In this instance, I kind of stopped "mid stream" and my finger got in the way of the spray which kind of shot a "blob" right at the surface. It cleaned up perfectly fine with one pass of 600 grit. For anyone interested in a professional car painter using rattle cans and 2k clear, this is an outstanding video. He doesn't cover sealer primer in this particular video, but does in most of his others: So, since I'm not ready to hit my back and abdominal yet, I decided to go back to my bucket. So, quick note about this; I have called this a Remnant build, but I'm sensing a little uncertainty regarding the creation of a Remnant CRL. So, to cover all my bases and make the determination on Remnant vs. Anthology/ New Generation TK, I'm making multiple versions of the helmet. So here's the helmet in it's Saturday state. Back in October, I sprayed it with some white primer and thought it was ready for paint. However, I've learned a lot since then and knew I wouldn't be doing it any justice if I just threw white on here and called it good. Additionally, as I showed a few days ago, it was still littered with pinholes and cracks, so it wasn't even close to ready. So, I grabbed my glaze and spot putty, filled the cracks, sanded it all out and flattened the surface with the interface pad and some 400grit paper. Since I already sprayed the interior with truck bed liner, I didn't want to get overspray on the awesome surface it created. I masked off the inside of the helmet and realized how much I like the blue painter's tape inside the tube vents. I can see why they used this on set, but it's just not practical for extended use. Regardless, check this out: YEAH BUDDY! I posted this to the Facebook page a few nights ago and almost instantly had three people reach out asking what paint I used. This is the primer sealer almost immediately after I sprayed it. I think up to this point, I was liking what I was seeing with the sealer, but after I sprayed the helmet and found that I couldn't find any flaws in the surface, I was purely ecstatic. The other thing to note about the sealer is after spraying the arms, chest, a few accessories including the thermal detonator, and helmet, I'm only down one can, so I don't mind the slightly higher price tag of approximately $10 per can. Though it looked cool in that last picture, this is how it looks now that it's fully cured and ready for paint. So that pretty much covers all the armor updates, but last night I FINALLY started another project I've been flirting around with for a few months now. Thanks to @JasonG for loaning me his airsoft gun a while back and @trooper96's awesome Rogue One files, I was able to start building the accessories I needed for the rubber/ resin E-11B I've talked to a few of you about previously. This isn't a resin/ rubber molding tutorial or anything like that, but does show you the direction I'm traveling for the time being as well as an example of the accuracy of Bryan's E-11 parts. --Spoiler Alert-- His files are awesome. Here's a few of the parts loosely held together next to the airsoft gun minus it's barrel. Small Eagle Style And finally, a comparison of the airsoft magazine (top) and Bryan's magazine. I'll get back to work soon, but as always, thanks again for viewing.

Best update my list again: APPROVED: TK - ANH Stunt L3 TK - ANH Hero L3 TK - ESB L3 TK - Heavy Weapons Trooper TK - TFA L3 TK - TLJ L3 TK - TLJ-E L3 ID - Officer ANH L3, Lt Tanbris L2, Lt Jir L2, Lt Childsen L2, 2nd Lt L2, Lt Com Praji L2, Lt Treidum L2 ID - Warrant ANH L2, ROTJ L3, Maj Hewex L2, Joff L2, Col Dyer L2 DZ - Jawa ANH TB - Biker Scout Lancer L2 IC - Crewman ANH L3, ESB L3, ROTJ L3 IC - Mechanical Crew L3 TI - Reserve Pilot IG - Gunner IN - Navy Trooper ANH L3, ESB L3, ROTJ L3 IN - Navy Dress Uniform ESB L2, ROTJ L2, Sgt Bean L2 ID - Line Officer - Olive ID - Grand Moff Tarkin ID - Social Officer Black ID - Social Officer Olive TB - Jedi Fallen Order RETIRED CT - Clone Trooper TR - Guard ROTJ DZ - Tusken ANH TD - Sandtrooper UPDATE Sold Tusken Raider and Royal Guard Also received approval for Bikerscout Jedi Fallen Order

I only have a few helmets and I will try and list them. I also have 12 full sets of armor. Helmets: Coffin Animated Series Clone DW Design Studios Phase 1 Clone DW Design Studios Luke X-Wing Pilot Clone6 501st Phase 2 Clone Penny Bark Bark Stormtrooper Protomatic Darth Vader Marco Stormtrooper TM Hero WTF Animated Series Stormtrooper WTF kids Tiefighter WTF Flametrooper WTF Kids Biker Scout WTF Republic Commando WTF Kids Sandtrooper WTF Kids Stormtrooper WTF Hero WTF Gino V2 Sandtrooper WTF Smooth Pink FX Stormtrooper FX Shadowtrooper FX Super Trooper 1 FX Super Trooper 2 FX Mega Dork 2 850 Armorworks Shoretrooper Flashback Props Biker Scout Studio Creations Biker Scout Kropserkel Dirty Biker Scout Kropserkel Biker Scout TE Hero TE Brown HDPE ESB David M Stormtrooper TE Tan HDPE ANH David M Stormtrooper TE 25th Anniversery ESB Stormtrooper TE HDPE ANH Sandtrooper Chipped Dan Laws David M ESB Stormtrooper Dan Laws ESB Snowtrooper CFO MKii CFO Set for Stun Stormtrooper CFO Joe R ROJ Stormtrooper Altmanns Limited Edition Stormtrooper RWA ESB Acrylic Capped Stormtrooper Anovos TFA FO Stormtrooper Bloody Anovos Classic Stormtrooper Anovos Fiberglass Limited Edition FO Stormtrooper VT Stormtrooper Master Replicas Stormtrooper Master Replicas Phase 2 Clone AP ANH Stormtrooper Don Post/20th Century Fox 1977 Stormtrooper RS Props Classic Stormtrooper Shepperton Designs Battle Spec Stormtrooper DA props Khaki HDPE Chipped no ears DA Props ABS old version Stormtrooper DA Props HDPE unpainted DA Props HDPE ESB Chipped Stormtrooper KB Props TLJ FO Stormtrooper Branfuhr Studios Patrol Trooper AM 1.0 custom LA Dodgers Helmet AM 4.5 Matte Black Shadowtrooper AM ANH Stormtrooper AM 1.0 Custom Hero Stormtrooper AM 1.0 Shadowtrooper AM 1.0 Sandtrooper AM 2.0 Rudolf Sabdtrooper AM 2.0 ESB Stormtrooper AM 3.0 Shadowtrooper AM 3.0 Custom Paint Stormtrooper AM 4.0 Prototype Stunt Stormtrooper AM 4.0 Hero Luke Prototype AM 4.0 Hero Han AM 4.5 ANH Stunt Prototype AM 4.5 ANH Sandtrooper AM 4.5 Chrome Prototype AM 4.5 Chrome AM 4.5 Gold AM 1.0 ANH Stunt AM custom Darth Maul Stormtrooper AM 4.5 Stunt Reveal Section display 1 unbuilt AM Chrome 2 unbuilt AM 4.0 Hero 2 Unbuilt AM 4.5 Stunt Stormtrooper Mixed AM Frankenstein Hero AM/ATA Frankenstein ATA Sandtrooper RT-Mod ANH Stormtrooper MTK ANH Stormtrooper German FX ESB Stormtrooper EFX Stormtrooper EFX Boba Fett Unknown Maker TFA FO Stormtrooper Unknown Maker Jango Fett Rubies Supreme Darth Vader Rubies Boba Fett Rubies Supreme Stormtrooper Rubies Collectors Edition Stormtrooper Rubies Kylo Ren Hasbro Black Series Luke Skywalker X-Wing Pilot Hasbro Black Series Shocktrooper Hasbro Black Series Boba Fett Hasbro Black Series Poe Dameron Fighter Pilot Hasbro Black Series Rogue One Stormtrooper Hasbro Black Series Rogue One Sandtrooper Hasbro Black Series Reveal Darth Vader Hasbro Black Series Shocktrooper Hasbro Black Series Darth Vader Reveal Section display Disney Stormtrooper Bank Helmet Disney Mickey Vader Minutefett Mandalorian

Updated with latest approval in the center

Best update my list: Approved: TK - ANH Stunt L3 TK - ANH Hero L3 TK - ESB L3 TK - Heavy Weapons Trooper TK - TFA L3 TK - TLJ L3 TK - TLJ-E L3 ID - Officer ANH L3, Lt Tanbris L2, Lt Jir L2, Lt Childsen L2, 2nd Lt L2, Lt Com Praji L2, Lt Treidum L2 ID - Warrant ANH L2, ROTJ L3, Maj Hewex L2, Joff L2, Col Dyer L2 DZ - Jawa ANH DZ - Tusken ANH TB - Biker Scout Lancer L2 IC - Crewman ANH L3, ESB L3, ROTJ L3 IC - Mechanical Crew L3 TI - Reserve Pilot IG - Gunner TR - Guard ROTJ IN - Navy Trooper ANH L3, ESB L3, ROTJ L3 IN - Navy Dress Uniform ESB L2, ROTJ L2, Sgt Bean L2 ID - Line Officer - Olive Retired: CT - Clone Trooper No CRL: TX - Sith Trooper