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I somehow missed this thread. I was approved October 28th, 2020. I was approved EIB #1007 November 9th, and Centurion #485 on December 2nd. I look forward to trooping!

I decided to go back and finish my shoulder bridges and chest/back plate connection. I glued the strips into all the slots and then glued a thick extra layer of ABS (about half the width of the bridges) to strengthen and allow some flexibility. Al least now I can rest knowing that little extras going to help.

Even scrap ABS cover strip offcuts are good for rubbing off excess E6000

You are very welcome, that's what we do, "troopers helping troopers"

Heck yea, CONGRATS! You can have those pins - you EARNED em!

FX conversion/info threads https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/12478-howto-easily-make-your-fx-armor-eib-acceptable/, restored by gmrhodes13 https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/46739-help-needed-tk-fx-armor-build-want-to-get-wearable-by-may-17/, restored by gmrhodes13 https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/28712-mjrose927-anh-fx-buildyes-fx/, restored by gmrhodes13

Scott Ruckert 69901 EIB LETTER SIZE MARIO https://www.whitearmor.net/eib/certificates/69901-eib.png 322

Some threads on making FX armor approvable

I added this adjustment to my Centurion thread, but it should go here too: Just an update, I made the couple of finishing touches that were recommended in my Centurion approval as "nice to have" additions after it was approved. First up was trimming the thigh and cod area to give it a bit more black, and probably a bit less chafing on a parade troop: Updated. I can always trim more, but trying this for now: And then the classic "trooper butt" issue: @gmrhodes13 had a simple solution, and I decided to make it. He suggested they go out on the sides, but for how my armor was popping straight back, I found the ideal location was more toward the 1/3 points. I took some card stock to figure out the size I might need, and then took some of the cover strip plastic [EDIT: black plastic would be more ideal, because these clips will just be visible in the crack - I plan to paint mine black in that gap], and cut two rectangles, 3cm by 7.5cm. I used @ukswrath's focused heating technique, where you use a couple of pieces of wood on either side of a bend spot, and heat just that gap, for a more controlled bend. On mine, I needed about 1 cm of arch on the inside for it to work: Glued on one side with white E6000 (for this to work, it just gets mounted on one side. That way you can still detach the armor, and it can slide side to side a bit for some movement. These clips just keep the bottom from being able to pop out further than the other plate). I placed them 4 cm from the edges of the back rectangular detail. I tried it on, and it worked perfectly! No more trooper-butt! Thanks for the suggestions, team!

Oh, you will. Let's just wait until we can meet again in Leverkusen... A 'Pfefferschnitzel' is highly overdue. Thanks for mentioning Glen. Green and yellow sounds like a good combination, too. But to be honest, I already have something in mind for that last white spot on this helmet... Sounds like a great idea but in this case I am only building a helmet, not a full costume. This fact is limiting when it comes to integrate paint schemes and colors. However, I am still pretty confident...

Thank you so much!! It’s been a long road but worth it!! I would just like to thank Glenn and Mario for their never ending patients helping me at every step. At times it was frustrating and I got a little grumpy, I’m sure when they saw that I would send them messages they hated to click open, but they never were offended or discouraging. They answered me timely in their responses even though they are hours difference from me which helped me keep moving and not stall out. They both just kept pushing me forward to make my armor look as good as I could. I want to extend my deepest gratitude for all the time and patients you guys gave me with your suggestions and help. Thank you again so much Glenn, and Mario.

Congrats! I knew you had it in the bag!