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Hi Sergio, and thank you for your Centurion application! CRL and Centurion Application Requirements: All required photos have been submitted, and on behalf of the entire D.O. staff we are pleased to welcome you to the rank of CENTURION. Congratulations! Other-Armor Fit/Assembly; In this area we review observations made by your fellow troopers and the DO team. Some observations may lead to suggestions to improve the overall look of your armour. Idealmente , la caída de las líneas de los tubos laterales del casco es hacia el frente, en los de tu casco están hacia atrás, puedes considerarlo para una próxima sesión de pintura. Fall of tube stripe tops ideally lean toward the front. Yours looks to bend to back a bit and you would like to consider this fix for a future painting session. Reference Images Este es un problema muy común a la hora de ponernos la armadura, las placas de Abdomen y Lumbar se desajustan y pierden la línea. Generalmente se resuelve ajustando un poco más los elásticos o straps laterales o agregando un pas de piezas de velcro. This is a common dressing issue, the Ab / Kidney plates get out of adjustment and lose the line. It is usually solved by adjusting the elastics or side straps a little more or adding a set of velcro pieces. Reference Images Reference Images Tu placa de espalda se superpone un poquito sobre la placa lumbar, no es mucho pero podrías ajustar los straps para quedar perfecto Your Back plate is overlapping a bit your kidney armor , not a big deal and it's an Easy fix , just making small adjustment to the straps Reference Images Tu cinturón debe subir un poquito para estar perfecto, un truco muy utilizado es poner un par de piezas de velcro detrás y de esta forma evitar que se baje al frente. Your belt needs to go up a little to be perfectly, a widely used trick is to place a couple of small strips of Velcro behind belt to ensure it doesn't sag in the front Reference Images Idealmente debería haber una pequeña cantidad de plástico en el extremo del cinturón al lado del botón de la tapa, este es un paso que conlleva retirar y reposicionar la tapa y lo hacemos notar para que lo consideres en un futuro ajuste. There should be a small amount of plastic on the end of the belt next to the cover button, bit hard to fix that one, so we are suggesting it for a future when you decide to take the step. Reference Images Para una una mayor precisión respecto a las películas, Los tornillos de tu Detonador Térmico deberían posicionarse más hacia el extremo del clip metálico cómo lo indicamos en la imagen . For more accuracy, your TD screws should be located more towards the edge of the metal clip as we pointed in the image Reference Images Finalmente , otro problema de ajuste al ponerte tu armadura, el Sniper knee está por debajo del muslo y esto puede ser debido a que la pantorrilla está un poco más arriba que la derecha, prueba bajarla un poco y si no funciona, una solución muy utilizada es pones una pieza de Foam detrás de la rodilla para evitar ese traslape. Finally, another dressing issue , the Sniper knee is below the thigh and it looks that it's due the left shin is a bit high than the right one , you can try lowering down a bit or a widely used solution is to put a piece of Foam behind the knee to avoid that overlaping. Reference Images Y eso es todo Sergio, de nuevo Felicitaciones, hiciste un gran trabajo en los ajustes solicitados . And That's all Sergio, you did a great work on the required fixes. Congratulations !!

That's music to my ears! Sent from my Imperial Communicator

With the warmer weather coming up and cabin fever well set in I thought it was time to break open a box and get to work cutting up some ABS. This build was going to be a TFU Commander but since there has been work on the CRL for a standard TFU Stormtrooper I thought I'd start here then convert it to a Commander later. I've had a couple of ATA helmets sitting around for some time so I'll use one of those and also have a set of RS armor which was part payment of a commission build. First up tape the outside ready for some satin black, I like the interior dark, helps stop light reflections inside the helmet so people have no chance seeing your eyes. Now let's see if I remember how to do this, let's tackle the helmet first, everyone loves ears Get the basic trimming out of the way and start aligning. ATA helmets are a bit of work to get sitting just right, the right side is a little shorter and the backplate higher so it takes some wiggling. I normally throw a couple of screws in to get everything sitting right. On to everyone's favorites, ears. Rough trim done and adjusting to suit. Getting the angle just right, we know how these DO's love their angled ears Happy with that, time for some screws I won't bore you with the other side, brow trim fitted. I like to run a pencil inside the lenses and teeth, helps as a guide when trimming. Small file bit on the dremel, then files and sandpaper First light coat of paint on the teeth, I find if you go too thick it can craze. Mic tips are painted, forgot to take a photo of those and that's about it for today, I'm just easing into this build, still getting over some medical issues and ongoing problems but should get there in the end.

COSTUME INFORMATION Armor: ANOVOS TFA beta kit Chestplate seam mod (wings cutted and reassembled) Chestplate chestslot mod (cutted and reworked) Biceps detail mod (3 step stairs) Shoulder bracket mod (àla Ukswrath) accurate fabric behind detail holes replaced front Belt Boxes with resin Belt Boxes (made by R2Dan) replaced Handguards with resin Handguards (made by R2Dan) reworked Forearm detail holes Helmet: ANOVOS TLJ Standard Line Gaskets: ANOVOS Belt: Belts of The First Order Belt Pouches: custom made (by TK-72216) Holster: working metal holster (made by R2Dan) Undersuit: shiny pants and black top from Amazon Neckseal: custom made (by TK-72216) Boots: Imperial Boots Gloves: Endor Finders F-11D Blaster: 3D Printed (files by The5thHorseman) Name: Sebastian Schlump Height: 187cm (6‘2“) Weight: 81kg (179 lbs) TKID: 51337 Garrison: German Garrison Basic Approval: https://www.501st.com/members/displaymember.php?userID=20276&costumeID=408 Basic Shots (Guideline Points 1-5): Chest (Guideline Points 6-10): Detonator (Guideline Points 11-13): Shoulders (Guideline Points 14): Biceps (Guideline Points 15): Forearms (Guideline Points 16-18): Abdomen (Guideline Points 19-21): Cod (Guideline Points 22): Posterior (Guideline Points 23): Thighs (Guideline Points 24): Shins (Guideline Points 25): Ankle Spats (Guideline Points 26): Helmet Details (Guideline Points 27-30): Neckseal (Guideline Points 31): Undergarments (Guideline Points 32): Shoulder Gaskets (Guideline Points 33): Knee Gaskets (Guideline Points 34): Gloves (Guideline Points 35-36): Belt (Guideline Points 37-38): Boots (Guideline Points 39): Blaster Details (Guideline Points 40-45): To prevent confusion: We (Sebastian TK-51337, Daniela TK-72216 and Richard TK-40193) built our stormtroopers together last year - the local Rise of Skywalker premiere was our first troop as FOTKs. In January we submitted our armors for basic approval and passed it. We then decided to update the few parts that we hadn't initially built to the Level 2 and Level 3 standards and are now appliying for the next levels of approvement. Since we built the armors together almost every mechanism, closure method and solution to strapping problems is the same - there are small individual differences but nothing major. We took our new approvement photos before a green screen in our living room with a set up to lights over a couple of days so lighting and background should be consistent in all three of our applications. Thank you very much for your time!

Congratulations and welcome to Centurion trooper Felicitaciones y bienvenido a Centurion trooper Don't forget to add his Centurion number to the title @TKSpartan

Your attachments are noted to further polish those details that you comment and leave a perfect project. I would like to especially acknowledge the work that the DOs do to bring the armor to the most exact level of similarity to the original armor. That's why I want to mention Mario and Joseph, for all their advice and have taught me to appreciate the details that for any other fan of the saga could go unnoticed. Thanks to ARMOUR FACTORY PROPS for a job well done, which has made it so easy for me to improve the last details. Also thank the magnificent group of troopers that make up the Spanish Garrison, for their support and encouragement to push me to this madness that not so long ago, seemed so unattainable. Especially Chemi, for her support and "closely monitoring" the entire process. Quedan anotadas tus sugerencias y me pondré a ello para pulir más si cabe aquellos detalles que comentas y dejar un trabajo perfecto. Me gustaría agradecer especialmente el trabajo que realizan los DO para poder llevar las armaduras al nivel más exacto de similitud con las armaduras originales. Por eso quiero mencionar a Mario y a Joseph, por todos sus consejos y haberme enseñado a apreciar los detalles que para cualquier otro fan de la saga podrían pasar desapercibidos. Gracias a AFP por un trabajo bien hecho, que me ha facilitado tanto el poder mejorar esos pocos ajustes. Agradecer también al magnífico grupo de troopers que conforman la Spanish Garrison, por su apoyo y ánimo para empujarme a esta locura que no hace tanto, me parecía tan inalcanzable. Y en especial a Chemi, por su apoyo y "seguimiento de cerca" en todo este camino.

Congratulations Sergio!!! Welcome to Centurion!!!

no need to trim, by looking at the gap at knee they look perfect

Too cold overnight so I will leave all that was glued yesterday another 24hours ABS slurry melting Add the rear velcro cover plates to shins Snap plates made Add snap plates, left over strips of ABS help to clamp more area of the snap plates and use less clamps and magnets Apply to rest of the armor pieces. Can't add to sides as yet until I work out side rivet placement once the belt is on And also the arms

I dont think you will need to trim top of thighs unless your under 5.8"

First coat of high build primer, then sanded, and a second heavier coat not yet sanded on the barrel. I'm giving it a full 24 hours to cure the thick coat before sanding it. Probably need at least 1 or 2 more to fill the seams between pieces in the vented portion. The magazine kind of put together. Still trying to figure out how to assemble the folding stock parts

Armor trimming all sanded and ready to proceed. First trim and check alignment for kidney and butt plate which need to appear as one piece Inside looks good. Apply some superglue gel and kicker which helps quicken the drying and also expands the glue Waiting for the ABS paste to soften then applying along the join seam Next on to the belt, going to leave this longer than a standard OTTK, the TFU has a longer belt Cover button close to the end as well Measure for snap hole And drill Now to bend, I usually just clamp two metal rulers either side and then apply a little pressure on either side and bend Worked well On to some cover strips, remember one side of the ABS sheet is usually gloss, the other not Score and snap works the best In no time your done Use some coarse sandpaper on the back to roughen, will help the glue adhere to it Using velcro on the back of the shins, draw a line slightly off center as a guide, measure the velcro and carefully cut Apply glue to the velcro side Apply the velcro Then clamp down upside on board to dry Now we fast forward, I got a little carried away and didn't stop to take photos, but you all know how it goes You can never have enough magnets or clamps, painters tape helps too Hopefully be dry tomorrow to finish the other sides

Well time for trimming the armor, I did get a little carried away, I know what a mess but you can't stop production to tidy up . Ok may be I should, it's a little more tidy now I normally try to keep some of the offcuts from any different armor I work with, never know when you are going to need some ABS paste. I'll cut up into smaller pieces later and keep in zip lock bag and label like others I have saved. Working out trim lines, a ruler with clamps works for me I like to use a cutting disk on the Dremel to trim, I can get pretty straight lines. Use a long sanding block to finish Some 240 grit to smooth any sharp edges, also sand a small area where the E6000 will go, helps adherence Add some painters tape to bother sides to check for sizing Measure, divide by 2 and trim excess from both pieces Large tabs from shoulder straps removed Make sure all the return edges from the front of the forearms is removed Shins ready for a trial fit for sizing

Thanks Andrew. All the velcro inside is dry so fitted the fan and foam, also made a template for the lenses, marked and cut out, I use a little hot glue just to hold them in place than apply some black silicon around the edges, I like the darker look inside. And fitted. Don't be too concerned if you have small gaps, does help with air flow Time to add the decals, yes I'm going to cheat and not paint, my hands are no longer up to painting fine lines after 2 finger operations and arthritis in a few knuckles. Dave M decals, a little expensive with shipping but a must if you can't paint and want to go L3. Make sure you have the correct tubes stripes on the right side (or left ) You want the tube stripes falling forward at the front. If you look at the image bellow you can see the front leans forward ie: front \\\\\\\\\\\ back Should be a pencil width from the cheek. As I guide I like to use a piece of masking tape the same size as a pencil Trim to size and apply I like to pull away from the decal as I find it doesn't pull the decals off while removing the top sheet. Repeat on the opposite side. On to the tears and traps, I find it easier to trim the decals down to size and test fit, adding a little tape in places is a good guide. The decals don't fit all helmets perfectly so you may need to trim down slightly, using a permanent marker is a good way to restore any missing black lines you may have to trim off. Any air bubbles just a very impolite person with a pin and push the air out. No this is not how the brow trim looks finished, it was pulled down to apply the decal And helmet is done for the time being, I'll apply some light battle damage/weathering once the armor is complete, I like to do it all at the same time so you get a consistent look.

I said it would be converted in a few months. Well, other projects got in the way, and life, too... so it actually took a little over 2 years to complete, but this kit is now officially a Sandtrooper! Time to go find some droids!

Ok this one was a little easier, cut wood to size needed Heat plastic and push down Trim to match curve of ab and molded area Happy with how it's looking Next glue then add the ABS paste Did someone say TFU upgrade kits

Thought I'd tackle the smaller ab button plate as there needs to be 5 buttons not 4 like most other versions of armor. So first work out the length of plate, then button spacing and drill Drill wood with larger holes than needed Make a plate identical to the first plate, this will house the rivets (which happen to be the right size). Added a washer behind to help hold them out a little more. Test the two pieces fit Heat up your ABS sheet Align and press together Let cool down then separate Trim to size Check for fit 5th button is now one button higher than larger ab button plate. Next to fill the area behind, may do the same method, use blocks of wood the same size as the original molded area, heat some ABS, mold then trim to match and add some ABS paste to fill any seams then sand and polish.

Final paint detail to the ears Making mesh piece for behind the teeth Mic tips painted and once dry mesh added Have most of the pieces for the TD so will start on that. Trial fit end caps, need a little heat Getting size right Going for the "game version" TD so cut a piece of poly pipe. Adding some tape to get sizing right Then trim Just adding some glue to the panel and then wait for screws to arrive then can fit the brackets I made earlier.