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How to attach flexible hand guards to rubber gloves For those aiming for Expert Infantry/Centurion level or just screen accuracy, the flexible hand guards will be need to be attached to your rubber (chemical style) gloves. Many folks have asked me the best way to do this, so here is my preferred method. Note that I am using the silicone guards that I make which have a heavy-duty cloth backing in order for glue to adhere to, but this should work for most other types including ones made from natural latex. ****Instructions for Nomex gloves at bottom Supplies needed: 1. E-6000 glue- I highly recommend using this product instead of CA (super) glue or epoxy, both of which can (and will) get brittle over time, causing the bond to fail. 2. Rough grit sandpaper (80 to 120 grit) 3. 2 or more heavy books. 4. Thin point Sharpie marker or soft lead pencil. 5. Blue painter's tape. Step one- Determine placement. The front end of the guard should sit right at the end of your knuckles, and in the center of the back of your hand. NOTE: Placing them too far forward will put undue stress on the glue in that area when you bend your fingers down and may cause separation. Step two- After measuring both sides and determining proper alignment, attach the blue tape to mark where the bottoms will be. Note distance between end of guard and bottom of glove fingers. Reference image Make sure that there are no wrinkles in the rubber glove. Step three- Using the Sharpie or pencil, mark a line around the guards. Step four- Sand down the area inside your lines. Doing this will rough-up the surface and allow for better adhesion. NOTE: Clean the area thoroughly afterward and allow it to dry. Step five- Place a generous amount of E-6000 around the perimeters and inside, then rub it around the entire center/edges to even it out (you can go a little heavier on the edges). Leave a small area around the edge to prevent seepage. Step six- Lay the gloves side by side and place the hand guards glue down in the outlined areas. Place at least TWO large books or other heavy, flat objects in top. This is necessary for proper adhesion. IMPORTANT: Leave them under the weight for at least 12-24 hours to allow the glue to completely cure/set. If you do have any seepage of the E-6000 it can be removed by rubbing it off with your thumb. DONE! NOMEX GLOVES- When attaching to Nomex gloves, use the same method as above But be SURE to put a piece of wax paper inside the gloves. Otherwise, the glue will seep through and bond them closed. NOTE: Please be aware that Nomex gloves are not permitted for Expert Infantry/Centurion approval.

Hello all. I'm Derek, currently residing in Northern Ireland and using the lockdown to try and complete my TK build. Its a DA Props kit and just about ready for strapping. I've done my e11 using a doopys kit with Blast FX installed. On here to brose for build tips and ask the usual how do I do something questions. Cheers!

Hello everyone! My name is Carter, I’m 16 and from Garrison Carida. I made this post over on the general page, but was told by CableGuy that I’d probably get better feedback over here. I’ve attached some photos of me and my armor below, which is an Anovos Kit, and I wanted some input on fixes I need to make. Apparently in my excitement I put the 3 rivets on my right side rather than my left, and the “Han” snap on the left rather than the right [emoji2359]. In addition to those, I also extended the from cover strip on my left thigh past the ridge at the bottom. So my question is how would I fill the holes from the rivets when transferring them to the left, and how would I repair the ridge on my left thigh, as the cover strip is super glued down and I’m worried I’ll ruin it. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’m working on a ANH Hero TK. Just got my box today. Can’t wait to get started!

Hi Everyone! My name is Carter, and Im located in the Garrison Carida region of Pennsylvania. Im currently 16 years old, meaning Im slightly too young to be a member of the Legion at the moment, but i wanted to upload pictures of my assembled costume to maybe get some tips or changes for my armor. I assembled an Anovos Original trilogy TK and its my pride and joy. Im currently assembling a shoretrooper Captain and Im almost done with a Sith Acolyte from SWTOR. I know its not perfect, but i think its a good starting point. I currently have rubies boots, which I know are not accurtae, and i need to touch up the paint on the COD piece, but any other information regarding its accuracy would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!

You've totally got this Diana. I have faith in you! You've received excellent and priceless feedback from Mario and Jospeh - All changes I know you can make. Everyone is this community is rooting for you and wants you to succeed. I'm looking forward to your EIB!

Hi Diana! AWESOME to hear that you are getting ready to submit for EI, but before you can do that you will need to apply for Legion access here. It should take less than a day or so, and once that is granted we can go from there! You did a super nice job on this build, but there are 2 small items to deal with before we can get that EI badge under your name. The tube stripes are quite a way from the cheek. Ideally, the tube stripes are positioned approximately a pencil width from the side of the cheek. As Mario mentioned, there can be little to no gap between the clips and the end caps The right side is spot-on, but the left one needs to be brought out to where it matches the right one as in his suggestion. The paint on the teeth will also need to be taken back from the gum line. The references he provided show what they should look like. 15 minutes with some (NON acetone) paint remover and a toothpick and you are golden! In looking at the overall build, I honestly see no reason why you can't get this set of armor all the way to Centurion! There are few issues you will need to work on, but I have faith in ya'! If you have the time, below are some suggestions to think about for level 3. If we can be of any help with anything at all, just let us know! The shoulder bell/back plate gap is perfect, but the front could use some tweaking. To get them closer, this is what I would recommend: 1. Remove ALL the return edges from the bottoms of the bells. This will allow them to sit closer to the biceps. 2. Tighten up the shoulder bell straps. It looks as if your ab-plate is sitting a little askew, which may be the reason that the top of the thigh gap/cod are overlapping on the right. What you may want to think about is simply adding some strapping inside at the chest/ab connection (I suggest Velcro for easy adjustment) to even them out on both sides. Side note: Fantastic alignment on the thigh/calf cover strips!! As you know, your back plate is overlapping the kidney quite a bit. Raising it may take a little work, but it can definitely be done! What I am suggesting is to reduce the length of the tabs on the back plate by at least an inch and a half and raising it up closer to the tabs on the chest plate which will raise it a lot. You can (and should) remove the large tabs on the rear of the shoulder straps. Hopefully @Cricket can weigh in on this. I see you used Velcro to hold your canvas belt in place (smart idea!), but it actually needs to come up a bit. Easy fix!! As I mentioned, those are just some things to mull over for the time being... This armor has a LOT going for it, and you nailed most of the items we look for so hopefully it will something to seriously consider!

Thank you for your input! And yes, along with straps on the shoulders I have one strap on each side to help keep the two pieces in place during this process. I underestimated the length to use so its pulling the chest piece towards the back. And yea, it looks like I need to trim a little off the top of the back tabs. It looks if I cut where you have highlighted I wont have to do any reshaping.

Hi Jonathan, Good progress. :-) Is your chest strapping “pulling” the chest in at the bottoms? It looks less flared than usual. For those back tabs, you could consider reducing their length a little. They are currently protruding above your natural shoulder line.

Congratulations Roy

Congratulations and welcome to the EI ranks trooper

Here in the uk the air soft costs as nearly much as a deactived stirling but I would personally have the real stirling as it’s a far superior blaster than the s&t and to be honest there isn’t mush difference in the weight the stirling is still heavier only a little though Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

thank you Troy

Hey guys, Previously I have trouble finding a high resolution of the crosshair to be printed in HD on stickers as everything elsewhere is in JPEG format. So I decided to draw my own. based on references I found on the white armor (FISD) forum. Sharing it here for all to use/mod. (This is in AI format, so all may size it to whichever sizing required without it getting pixelated) Cheers! Happy Trooping Wilson TK31593 Preview: E11 Ratina Display V1.ai

Congratulations. Welcome to the rank of EIB.

Congratulations Trooper, welcome to EIB. Great Work.!!!

Roy Maunder 25869 EIB A4 Sha Sha http://www.whitearmor.net/eib/certificates/25869-eib.png 280

Thanks to the shutdown over here, I can´t finish my armor. The resin parts still need paint, so does the helmet aswell, but all stores which could provide me the matching white are closed for public.The bucket on my mannequin I ordered just to have a helmet for display

I use a technique where you attache a 2B pencil to an eraser or small piece of wood with an elastic band. You then run the block around the outline of the top of thigh and scribe a line in the exact same shape as the original shape you simply hold the block and pencil at a 90 degree angle angle so the tip of the pencil contact the surface and away you go. You can use the same technique to shorten the shins from the bottom. I'll get a photo up when I have a minute and it will make perfect sense.

If you cut the tops of the thighs following the blue tape, you will lose the original shape. I have seen many people do this and their thighs look bad. The best way is to mark out the tops of thighs by following the tops vertically, so you keep the original shape. This way your thighs will look the same shape they did before you trimmed them, just shorter.