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Finally, after having bits and pieces except the armour since 2017, I managed to get my hands on an ANOVOS TFA kit, and so finally my build can commence! Armour, Helmet and Neck Seal: Anovos TFA Gaskets: Imperial Gaskets (rubber) Boots and Gloves: Imperial boots Undersuit: Stormtrooperundersuit F11D Blaster: 3D Print As I build, I will be linking those parts here for easy reference instead of scrolling through every post. Disclaimer: I am intending to build this to Level 3 certification, so hopefully the CRL doesn't change drastically during my build. Comments are welcome! And here's the kit in all its glory. Washed with mild soap to remove any release agents that might be on the plastic. The basic tools that I am using: Cutting and Sanding Proxxon Handheld Jigsaw for cutting ABS: https://www.proxxon.com/us/micromot/38530.php Belt Sander for fast sanding Proxxon Handheld Belt Sander for finer but still fast sanding: https://www.proxxon.com/us/micromot/38536.php Files, various grades of sandpaper for final sanding Adhesives CA Glue for small quick joints Weicon epoxy for final and large joints: https://www.weicon.de/en/applications/bonding-and-sealing/linking-major-parts/for-large-bond-gaps/54/easy-mix-n-50-epoxy-adhesive Weicon Epoxy glue dispenser gun and mixing nozzle Cutting the pieces Every piece was first outlined with a marker pen to understand where to cut off. I tool care to use references and other build threads to see where there would be return edges, and where there wouldn't. Golden rule: MEASURE TWICE, CUT ONCE. BUILD INDEX CHEST PART 1 CHEST PART 2 THERMAL DETONATOR PART 1 THERMAL DETONATOR PART 2 THERMAL DETONATOR PART 3 THERMAL DETONATOR PART 4 YOKE AND BACK FOREARMS PART 1 FOREARM BAD PULL REPAIR FOREARMS PART 2 THIGHS BICEPS HELMET HANDPLATES COD PIECE PART 1 COD PIECE PART 2 POSTERIOR PIECE PART 1 POSTERIOR PIECE PART 2 SHOULDER BELLS PART 1 SHOULDER BELLS PART 2 ABDOMEN PART 1 ABDOMEN PART 2 SHOULDER TABS SHINS PART 1 SHINS PART 2 BELT BOXES PART 1 BELT BOXES PART 2 BELT POUCHES PART 1 BELT POUCHES PART 2 BELT ASSEMBLY ANKLE SPATS PART 1 ANKLE SPATS PART 2 GASKETS PART 1 GASKETS PART 2 LEGS ASSEMBLY COMPLETED PHOTOS SUITED UP PHOTOS CRL CLARIFICATIONS THIGHS AND BICEPS INNER SEAM OVERLAP

[DISCLAIMER: THIS THREAD WILL INCLUDE MANY LINKS, FOR BOTH MY FUTURE REFERENCE AND USE BY OTHER TROOPERS] I've always wanted to wear an orange pauldron. I've always wanted to be a stormtrooper. Yes, sandtroopers are cool, and I imagine someday I will make the conversion (ABS yellowing?), but right now I'm still drawn to shiny white armor. I recently began my journey to join the Legion with an ANH Stunt TK kit and in the past couple of weeks I caught the BFG bug. DLT-19 and T-21 build threads consumed my Tapatalk time, and then I discovered the HWT. Eureka! Yes, I'll have to shell out for some MP-40 pouches, and build a backpack, which sounds fun, but—ORANGE PAULDRON and BFG!!! So much like Kman's side track, here is my semi-tangent. For kicks I'm going to have to boot up my old Battlefront games to check out some of the heavies, but luckily there are already some great screen caps here on the forum, and of course there's the CRL (link). I'm aware that there has been discussion on building packs to match the games vs the CRL, and my plan is to stick to Joseph's CRL model image as close as possible to maintain continuity (guide link), but there are several areas in which I will differ / provide my own interpretation. My plans, including the small variances which I believe will be approvable, will be noted by category in the next section below, and in general to plan take inspiration for my build from the following trailblazers: Tony's (Ukswrath) three part series Charles' (Templar) two threads Shawn's (@CrookKnight) thread (he also sells them) Kalani's (Kman) thread Zac's (Devolver) thread Bradley's (@AngryEwok) thread. My goodness, I particularly love the analysis on this one. Rick's (Caligari) thread Sarah's (Alay) thread Eric's (@Eric Ostendorf) 3D printed pack and files. Amazing work and very generous to share. [NEW ADDITION] Pauldron I've seen troopers debate between Trooper1 and TB for the purchase of a pauldron, and I'm almost certain I'll be going with @trooper1 for my orange. Is there any reason for me to reconsider other options? I'm still waiting on an email response from Jay for pricing, and hopefully I won't have to change plans based on the cost. MP-40 Pouches I likely simply need to do more research, but these recommended ebay ones from this thread are sold out, so I'm seeking alternatives. I did reach out to the ebay seller, and he hopes to have them back in stock sometime in the new year. In general I'd prefer to go pre-pade for these pouches, but any suggestions would be welcome. Oil Pan Base The oil pan used as the base of the backpack is perhaps the area in which I'm most curious about, in relation to the CRL. In the CRL photo Joseph is donning a pan from Bavarian Autosport, but unfortunately they closed shop earlier this (2019) year. [Anybody have an extra Bavarian pan they'd like to sell?] This means that all Heavies from now on will no longer be able to perfectly match the CRL, and we are instead left with two primary options—the Wedco 12.5qt model 83150 or the GarageBOSS 12.5q model GB150 (also available here). However, I believe there is a third, and possibly a fourth option. Here are the specs of the aforementioned pans, and the two others I am considering. CRL Model: Bavarian 16qt, dimensions 22" x 16" x 6.5' (photos by Templar (2) and justjoseph63) Wedco and GarageBOSS 12.5qt identical options, both with dimensions of 21.5" x 15.75" x 3.5" There are the most commonly-used oil cans now, since Bavarian has closed shop. I'm not a huge fan of them due to their shallow depth and their angled handle, which isn't accurate to the game or the CRL (see section right above). GarageBOSS 16qt discovery, dimensions 22.75" x 16.75" x 5.5" This is the first alternative option which I am considering building with. I especially like that it is deeper than the Wedco's, but not quite the the larger depth of the Bavarian. I'm quite bummed that I didn't pull the trigger on one of these the other day when Walmart had them clearanced for $12.32 shipped, since they're also out of stock on Amazon, but they can be found on eBay. The other aspect I like about this pan is that is has the larger cutout which would lay very well onto the backplate [ O II ] of TK armor. You can see how tight Joseph was able to cinch this same cutout style in his Bavarian photo above, which I'm not sure would be possible with the Wedco. Midwest 9qt discovery, dimensions 20.5" x 13.25" x 5" Finally, here is the most bold of the two alternative options I'm looking at. Most obvious, from the photos, is that there is no built-in handle, so I'd have to afix my own. Two potential options are shown below, and considering the fact that two different types of handles are already approvable, it seems like these (especially the first one) should be too. Such and add-on would also be more game accurate, but of course, I need to stay within the confines of the CRL for continuity. The two features I particularly like is the large recession, similar to the Bavarian and GarageBoss are the large recess which would lay against my backplate, and the non-flat surfaces on the sides, also like the Bavarian. This pan would also be deeper than the Wedco, but not to the extent of the Bavarian. The height and width are a little more narrow, so I'll need to examine those aspects. Rick has some great diagrams of the existing options, and I'm very interested in hearing feedback on these two other oil pans I'm investigating. Purchase sources: Autoplicity, Farm&Fleet Top Left Button Box As much as I am tempted to build the button box to the game-used ratio relative to the middle tube, I will be sticking with the commonly-accepted Popit! storage boxes. I don't recall which thread I saw it in, but somebody had cut squares in the octagonal pace plate in which they set the buttons (Amazon) to add a little depth and the appearance of functional utility; I may consider this. Too bad I have to buy 35 buttons when I only need four, but then again it may be useful to have spares. I think I will screw them into the box top from underneath for added security. Middle Tube This one will be easy to source, since we already use these wipes here at home. I'll just need to sneak purchasing the smaller, 35-count and less cost-efficient, tubes next time. =) Vent Box No rocking the boat in this area either. Popit! box with hopefully very clean-cut vent covers. Uniformity will be mandatory. Radio Box I'm not yet sure how much time I want to spend on this section, but I really like what Devolver did with his, and I do plan on using the Michael's box as the base. I grabbed three of them in black clearanced for $1.99 USD (plus tax) each. I like the idea of depth, and the framing on the sides of the box, but I want to ensure I remain CRL approvable. I think I will also reinforce walls of the cardboard box by adding some extra framing on the inside. There is an off-chance I may look into using Radio Shack project boxes in the same fashion that Charles did. Bottom Right Box I'm going to look into two alternative methods to make this box, though I still plan on using the Popit! boxes. I really REALLY want to angle the front of this box down like Templar did, but I'm not sure if my GML would be ok with it. I wonder if it would help my cause that the CRL model himself wished he had done it? I'm also interested in Bradly's cutout method to pride more depth than a sheet cover would. I am considering making two versions of this box, in case I get denied during my first submission. Drop Siphon Funnel Since the siphon will be the lowest point of the pack, and perhaps also the least sturdy due to the rounded mounting surface, I've decided that I want to go with a rigid structure, rather than a handmade / rolled piece. I checked out both of Devolver's options at Walmart and went with the floral vase due to it's larger taper, and the shaker cup having flat edges on two sides. The vase is nearly nine inches tall, so I know I will need to shorten it to reach the required six inch height. I'm also considering Bradley's nalgene bottle top portion, since I have tons of those laying around, and I might even look into a screw-removable siphon, to protect it from damage when laying the pack down. Antenna Tube There's not much up to interpretation and deviance in this area, and my goal is to close the ends of the tubes with flat caps. I've seen some Troopers mention that the home improvement stores only had curved-top caps and that they found flat ones at Walmart, but thus far I've had no such luck. Do any of you have purchase links to such caps? I briefly considered investigating a latching attachment mechanism for the tube for removal in transit, but I don't think any space benefits will be worth the hassle. E-11 Mount This may, perhaps, be the most controversial aspect of this pack build. I LOVE the idea of mounting a Rubies blaster on the left side of the pack, but I definitely will not be doing so before submitting for approval. If I do eventually elect to implement such a mount, I will go with a very simple, removable design. Other notes: No, I will not be including the previously-accepted antenna on top. It looks cool, but I understand it is not game or CRL accurate. Yes, I will be utilizing a "less is more" approach to armor weathering, especially since I want it to be removable. Joseph will be proud to hear this, and that I purchased the makeup brush set in the photo above for $2.49 in Walmart's Christmas clearance section. Now I just need the dollar store eye shadow. I purchased a thin $0.88 cutting board at Walmart with the intention of reenforcing the bottom of the radio box, but I may end up getting more and use it to create the framing / paneling on the entire radio box. The cutting board also has a texture to it, which may look better on a weathered radio than smooth cardboard. I may also have a fellow SW enthusiast friend print me some of Kman's templates. Question for @justjoseph63 or @Templar726: Which specific sticky floor tiles from Lowes did you use for your box covers? Here is my ANH Stunt TK Build Thread which will document the armor to be used for my HWT. My plan is to build it to Level 3 specs, submit for 501st approval, attain Centurion status through FISD, then transition (at least temporarily through Joseph's temporary weathering technique and Charles' styling) to HWT and submit for approval. Wow. I think it took me sessions (squeezed between baby naps and diaper changes) over four days to hammer this out. Hopefully this compilation of links will be helpful to future builders! MV

Hi Y'all, Thought I'd share my experience with those frustrating shins and what I came up with to make them easier to get in and out of. I'd like to disclose that I have only really studied UKSWRATH's Anovos TK Build Guide and Russellr2d2's ATA Armor Build so it is very possible someone else has been doing the same thing all along but my buddy said he'd never seen it and encouraged me to post it. If it is old news, sorry to waste your time. My shins are an extension of Russell's slot idea http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/29569-ata-armor-build-my-first-tk/page-8 (or whoever came up with it before him, that's where i saw it). I tried it like his with the channel down the middle and the velcro tabs at the top and bottom keeping it together but my shins were tight and i could never get my fingers in there easily enough to secure or unsecure the velcro. A great idea but an exercise in frustration for me. I thought it might be easier to swap out the velcro tabs for magnet tabs. I bought some thin earth magnets and designed and printed 3d straps using ninjaflex (rubber) on my 3d printer. I also made rubber keepers for the non-strap side which I glued onto the inner shins where the fuzzy velcro was. The hardest part was finding a glue that would hold the magnets to the rubber and i ended up having the most success with G-Lock BLU-GLU archery fletching cement. I tried several different attachment points as you can see my messy insides but the final setup seems to work pretty well. For the inside of the channel, I used an extra wide strip to make it stronger and easier to line up the cover strip. I guess the rest is self-explanatory. Here are some pics and a video of the enclosure in action.

Okay I have to confess, ive never used one. Seemed pretty straight forward to me. But for some reason, while testing this tool, the nail portion wont come out, only if I cut it off, and I know thats not how its done. I damn near stabbed my hand like heysoos on the cross trying to pull it out with a pair of pliers! Anyway, here is a pic of the tool, the rivets, and the test piece. --------- Now there is a little adjuster on the side but doesnt seem to do anything. on the other side there is a place to adjust with a screwdriver, but it seems to not have an affect on any changes I make to it. So im taking one for the team, for anyone who was ever afraid to admit they cant use what would normally seem to be a pretty basic tool Anyway, thanks for any tips and hope this helps the concerned, er I mean the curious

CHEST First up, I wanted to tackle the chest piece, as this to me was the most iconic of the FOTK. To cut out the 6 oval pill holes, I sanded down the indents from the back. By doing this, you are ensured of identical holes once you sand the indents flat. Here's all six of them sanded flat from the back: And this is how it finally looks from the front. Pretty satisfied with it, I must say. Next up, to tackle the chest pill box. I drew the outline of the resin attachment from the back, and then proceeded to cut the rectangle out CAREFULLY. Truly a heart-stopping step. I test-fitted it onto the chest. Glad it was a good fit, and I didn't have much to fill later. Next, I removed the slot from the pillbox, and from the back, I also created notches so that later when I apply epoxy putty around the pillbox, it would hold much better, compared to just the being held by only the rectangular frame of the cut-out. Glued the pillbox in place using CA, and then proceeded to apply 2-part epoxy putty around the back and front. This is how it looked dried and sanded down. That pillbox is not going anywhere! The front after sanding down. And finally, after a coat of primer. Again, pretty satisfied with the result. It does not look like 2 pieces. Calling the chest piece done! Stay tuned for the next part... UPDATE: I realised that my head is small enough for me to slot through the yoke WITH the chest piece attached. As such, I will be fixing the chest piece onto the yoke. I didn't like the way the 2 sharp ends of the chest piece will pop up, and since I can now put my head through, I decided to drill 2 holes onto the yoke, where the chest piece sharp ends are going to be. Then I will glue 2 bolts under the chest piece, go through the yoke, and secure the other side with nuts. Here are the holes: And here is the chest piece attached to the yoke via the 2 bolts. This is how it looks like from the inside. The excess bolt will be shaved off. I reinforced the bolts with epoxy putty, making the sharp ends much stronger, and the bolts secure. Finally, the chest piece with the greeblies added, primed and sanded with 1500 grit. This piece is now ready for the painters.

Thanks for the pick up Jafo, we can certainly look at amending this so it is correct in the short term. [emoji106] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So this oil pan is called RODCRAFT P4 and is sold in Germany (approx. € 45,- / US$ 49,-): - Mod.-No: 8951081032 - 17 Litres / 4.5 gal lqd - Total length: 26.6" (without the lower handle/drain, which I've severed: 60 cm / 23.6")

I understand that I’m trying to lose weight atm to get rid of this shim but for the moment it looks like that or like this It makes a huge difference to how it looks and I can walk in it fine it doesn’t pop out easily Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks! I’ll get right on it, thank you for the tip!

Many others make a opening and an insert on the sides, usually the right side, that keeps ab and kidney aligned. My own design just adds some hooks to make it lock in place. Although I would not want too much stress on these abs pieces as they are only glued on. Hot water bath it improve the curve and alignment first would help reduce stress and make it last longer.

OP Post #2 Thanks guys for the encouragement, kind words, and helpful insights! I'm perhaps as excited about this part of my Legion journey as my actual TK armor build! By the way, be forewarned that this post is picture-heavy, and is formatted to best display on the computer web browser view of this forum. So I did something bad—or not. One single GarageBOSS 16qt oil pan came back in stock for the clearance price at Walmart, so I purchased it... along with the normal 12.5pt version AND the Midwest handle-less pan. Now I can literally compare them all side-by-side, and as previously alluded to, I may simply make several versions of the pack with the three pans. Below are the comparison photos. Note that the pan without the handle (to be added later) is the Midwest, the one with the circle cutout is the mid-sized 12.5qt, and the largest one is the 16qt. The last two photos are with the smaller and larger pans laid with the standard mid-sized. I also found several more pull handle options to add to the Midwest pan (a need which makes it a more pricey option than the other pans), and purchased the SouthCo one from the Walmart marketplace since I believe it most resembles those in the Battlefront games. Below are some other handle links for reference. Note that several vendors sell what appear to be the same handle as the one I purchased, shown larger in this first image. Click on the later three photos for links to the purchase websites. Purchase links to the "boxy" handle above: Walmart | Grainger | Bisco | Zorro Moving on. I've been on a purchase spree this past week, and have ordered two sets of MP40 LEATHER pouches, an orange pauldron from Trooper1, two sets of Popit container sets, and the button box bumpers from Amazon. With help from several forum members I came to the conclusion that I'd need to resort to an international purchase for the leather MP40 pouches, and having had good experiences on Aliexpress in the past, I went that route. If all looks well when they arrive in three or so weeks I will post the seller and item link I used, and several (aka many) photos. As for the Popit boxes, I was literally about to click and finalize the purchase on Amazon when I thought I'd do one last google search and came across the Popit Shop website. Fortuitously, they had the 6 container stackit set in stock, priced cheaper than Amazon, and the new user coupon code "MYFIRSTPOPIT" netted me an additional 25% off and free shipping! A single set was going to be $14.99 shipped, so I decided to get two sets to give me a margin for error and to use on the extra backpacks I might make. I never knew I could be so excited about a food storage container manufacturer's website. Interestingly enough, my order arrived in two days via Amazon, so there must be a Popit / Amazon partnership. Before I get too much further and lose some readers — QUESTIONS! Which of the four largest Popit containers should be used? Based on Ukswrath's 2nd thread, it appears that the button panel should be the Xe 041 (6.6" x 4.75"), the vent panel the Xe 051 (8" x 5.6"), and the right arched panel the Xe 061 (9.1" x 6.6") container. If that's accurate, then I'd be using the first three boxes in the photo above, but with my plan to angle the front of the arched box, I may consider using the Xe 062 box—the fourth one in the photo—which has the same length and width dimensions, and is simply deeper/taller than the Xe 061. That extra depth with enable me to cut off the top and create a new angled surface. What are the preferred primer and paint brands and colors you all use for your backpacks? Always prime before main coat, correct? Any clear sealant on top of it all? I'm going with the 1" nylon for the backpack straps; what are your preferred purchase sources for the material? Radio bottle cap question; see notes several paragraphs below. Be prepared to overthink little plastic cylinders. To continue, I've also started a reference guide folder for my HWT build, and so far it contains printouts of the CRL and some reference guides and images. I will also be adding some backpack, T-21, and DLT-19 build threads and instructions. The OCD part of me has been pushing to find flat-topped 2" PVC end caps for the antenna tube, rather than cut off the rounded tops of some caps and leave the tube end open. Thus far my search has yielded the following, and I believe the last two are likely the same product (click the images to navigate to the purchase websites): Similarly, I've been pondering what type of caps to use as the knobs on the radio, and have secretly been eyeing all the caps on every type of vessel present in our house (shhh, don't tell my wife). At first I thought these small 16oz naglene bottle caps would be perfect, with their deep-grooved outer edge and the circular disc on top, but alas they are too wide at 2-5/8". Then I found these Dr. Brown's baby bottle caps in a three-pack for less than $3 shipped on Amazon, and they seem to fit the bill perfectly with the ridges on the outside and the recessed interior. I'll know whether or not they're the proper size ratio after I print out a radio box template. Cap dilemma continued after these first images. Ukswrath's thread says to use 2-1/4" caps, but Joseph's spec thread diagrams indicate that the height of the small window which houses each knob is only 2" tall, and that the knobs should be 1.5". I've seen in multiple threads the use of "milk caps," which I believe would be closer to 1.5" figure. Should I simply choose once I've laid out my framing template on the photo box? @justjoseph63 - It looks like you use something like this (also first photo below) in your CRL photo, correct? Here are some additional options I've found. Yes, I've spent far too much time researching bottle caps. Click the images for links to the purchase websites. Here are some additional items I've been collecting for my builds, including an excessive amount of black button bumper pads, the 35-count wipes container (the caps are now clear, not colored, so no green or yellow showing if the tube gets scratched!), and a nalgene hopefully for the top portion of the siphon funnel. I have so many old bottles needing new purpose in life. Time to serve the Empire. Finally, as far as purchases go, I jumped on these spare ABS parts for this build. Specifically I got the main belt (for a dedicated HWT) and the shoulder bridges to use on the antenna tube. I know I'll need to make three buttons for the belt, so I had Mark send me some ABS scraps which I will use to fashion into buttons. My plan is to use @Cricket's Step 1 procedure on her magnetic calf closures thread to create the raised round area on the square cutouts. Can anybody tell me the dimensions of the square and round portions? If not, worst case I measure the ones which will arrive with my ATA armor. I've also been browsing old HWT pre-approval, EIB, and Centurion request threads, and I've been quite shocked at the lack of consistency which existed a decade ago. Most of the builds appeared to be Sandie packs, and Troopers seemed to have different interpretations and a lot of latitude. No wonder the DOs created the General Guide for packs and updated the pack CRL. Here are some of the more recent threads which I poured over: Charles (Templar726) | Tony (ukswrath) | Shawn (CrookKnight) Dave (PBTrooper) | Derek (DZFireMedic) | Jim (Engineering trooper) Sarah (Alay) | Christopher (Chewy) | Randy (magni) For your viewing pleasure, here is one of the old, non-standard, crazy ones: JBOD70 3D Printing So I have a friend who has the ability to print in PLA, but I don't think it will be realistic to utilize that route, so I'm wondering if Shapeways might be a good solution for any random 3D printing I may need, particularly related to my BFG scratch builds. I know a lot Troopers on here have your own printers, but can anybody speak to their experiences using Shapeways or other 3D print services? To conclude, I guess I need to go to Home Depot to pick up some power conver... I mean, this stuff: 2" antenna tube (24") Nibco 2" PVC hub caps Black sticky floor tiles pine lumber for T-21 and DLT-19 scratch builds PVC pipes, adapters, and connections for blaster builds PVC for my thermal detonator (no, I will not wear this as a HWT) There were several other sections I wanted to add to this thread, but it's lengthy enough already. So until next time, heavies, take care. Quote Responses: Randy - I'm definitely going to make the angled arch box, and if my GLM frowns upon it I'll spin up a backup box, which I may make from the get-go anyway. I had already looked BMW and other German and UK vehicle plan, to no avail. With the pans being such a disposable item, even ECS Tuning, who took over brand legacy for BavAuto doesn't have them. I probably could have searched deeper into Euro options, but I figure that shipping might be a bit prohibitive to the US. Joseph - Thanks for the tip on the floor tiles. I will also be experimenting with cheap cutting boards for protecting the photo box. I also like your idea for the placement of the straps in the recess of the oil pan, and I'll definitely be getting screw head covers. Thanks, too, for pointing me to Anthony's T-21s. Those are a bit out of my price range, but I may see if he'll sell me just some of the cast parts. Shawn - If my floral vase cone doesn't work, I may take you up on your 3D print template offer. Thanks!

Shin armor stress crack suggestions, as promised… Ok, while at DragonCon I ran into Plainsrunner from the Alabama garrison in his Mimban Trooper, his wife came up with a unique and simple solution for the shin armor to prevent cracking. As we know, the two halves of the shin armor clam shell together nicely. Note this picture and see how the right side is on the outside along the front seam. The cover strip is molded into this half. The left side butts up to the right side edge and has a piece that is overlapped by the right side. So what this enterprising lady did was leave the two halves separate and added 2 strips of elastic on the inside of the armor to hold the front closed but allowing for flex and spread. This method would mean that you would need to hard mount the knee plate to only one side of the shin armor and then possibly add some Velcro on the other half but when he was wearing the armor, it looked great and prevented cracks. Here is a graphic I made to explain this method. This is the inside of the shin armor. Side A has the cover strip and is on the outside of the front seam. Side B sits inside of Side A and has the internal overlap strip. Note the placement of the two 1” elastic straps. Another method a a friend of mine used was a product similar to Velcro and made by 3M called Dual Lock which was attached to the inside of both halves and then locked in place before putting the armor on. I hope these options help you all out. I will get back on the tutorial soon.

What magnet strength did you use for the connectors? This looks like a fantastic idea... will likely employ it with my Phasma.

I say a combination of Dritz snap pliers and appropriate sized anvil / punch. Just be aware that the pliers are size specific when buying. Look for deals as they are kind of pricy. I found mine @ Joann fabric, it was an open package return, so they sold it to me at 75% off! Make sure you get the one that fits 5/8" snaps (size 24) The anvil and punch comes with some snap packages I found at Walmart. Pliers work great when making your snap plates for sure but you could do it with the anvil and punch. Then when you build butt plate to cod male snaps and belt snaps, using the anvil and punch work wonders. (because without them, you will wonder how you would have done it )

Not trying to hijack the thread but is using the using magnets to affix the sniper knee plate a Centurion approved method? I thought about doing it but I want to make sure I don't have to redo things. lol

Play nice, gentlemen.

I think it is totaly related as it's little tweeks that people come up with like this that can make something better. This is the way of the world and thankfully its full of inovaters. If you want to stick to the same old same old then you go ahead but don't hold back someones "effort" to progress even if it isn't going to be considered a "fix" without trial there is no error and to be honest, nothing is really broken untill someone fixes it as usualy its just a "better" way of doing the same thing that we then see as a "fix" As for the magnets being a health issue, this made me laugh. I think someone has just spread a thought they had one night while lying in bed or sitting on the toilet with no background evidance to support. the iron in the blood is not just stray iron molecules, but rather iron that has been biochemically bonded into the blood cells and is no longer directly affected by magnetic forces The effects on the blood by magnets are subtle and indirect so I wouldn't worry about this. I would worry more about carrying your mobile phone in your pocket next to your crown jewels.

Just curious if anybody has ever tried to use rare earth magnets to connect armor together in certain areas or used them in place of some snaps? I just received some magnets for using as clamps and they're freaking strong almost harder to get apart than a snap. Seems like an interesting idea to me. Mark