JSmails[501st] Posted April 21 Author Report Posted April 21 Thanks for the encouragement. I HATE my thermal detonator. It ruins the look of the back for me. Anyone have any leads on where I can buy an ROTJ TD? Thanks. Quote
JSmails[501st] Posted April 21 Author Report Posted April 21 One last questions before I start to look, how wide is the elastic on the top straps in back? I don’t think the CRL has the width. From the pics I’ve seen it looks like 1/4”, but it could be 1/2” I suppose. If I don’t find it myself, let me know where to look. Thanks all! Quote
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted April 21 Report Posted April 21 3 hours ago, JSmails said: One last questions before I start to look, how wide is the elastic on the top straps in back? I don’t think the CRL has the width. From the pics I’ve seen it looks like 1/4”, but it could be 1/2” I suppose. If I don’t find it myself, let me know where to look. Thanks all! 13. Elastic- 1 inch wide black for shoulder bells, etc. (4 ft.) 2 inch wide white for ab/back plate shoulder connection (1 ft.), 1 inch wide white for drop boxes, (1 ft.) 1/4 inch wide white** (1 ft.) for shoulder straps. Quote
JSmails[501st] Posted April 22 Author Report Posted April 22 On 4/21/2026 at 4:31 PM, gmrhodes13 said: 13. Elastic- 1 inch wide black for shoulder bells, etc. (4 ft.) 2 inch wide white for ab/back plate shoulder connection (1 ft.), 1 inch wide white for drop boxes, (1 ft.) 1/4 inch wide white** (1 ft.) for shoulder straps. Thank you sir! I’ll definitely have a read through that post. 1 Quote
JSmails[501st] Posted May 7 Author Report Posted May 7 Working on the TD. The CRL has changed (since I started working on this) and the end caps have to be 2CM. Mine were like 3/8” and I didn’t like the look anyway. So I measured and cut some plastic out to make it appear 2CM. And I glued that in place on both ends. Then I had to fill and sand, fill and sand. Here is part of the process. I’m going to have to paint. What color should I use for the grey tube? Is primer filler good enough? How about the white? Any white or is there a specific white? I think TKs with painted sets use appliance white or something. Any help/advice is appreciated! Quote
JSmails[501st] Posted May 7 Author Report Posted May 7 I did some reading and googling and it seems a good paint for TKs and FOTK is Painters Touch gloss white. Probably too white for my Rubies, but I’ll weather it closer once it’s done. Here it is after the white paint was applied. And here it is after the tape is taken off. I have a gloss coat to do to lock in the grey so it doesn’t scratch. But those caps are now 20mm. Should be compliant. Quote
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted May 7 Report Posted May 7 3 hours ago, JSmails said: I have a gloss coat to do to lock in the grey so it doesn’t scratch. But those caps are now 20mm. Should be compliant. That's a large gap between the end caps and the control panel, really up to your GML if he/she/they will approved as is. Control panel round section should be recessed, may also be an issue for your GML. Quote
JSmails[501st] Posted May 9 Author Report Posted May 9 On 5/7/2026 at 5:53 PM, gmrhodes13 said: That's a large gap between the end caps and the control panel, really up to your GML if he/she/they will approved as is. Control panel round section should be recessed, may also be an issue for your GML. Interesting. Here is the ROTJ TD reference I have: Is that not correct? Quote
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted May 9 Report Posted May 9 16 hours ago, JSmails said: Interesting. Here is the ROTJ TD reference I have: Is that not correct? Apologise for some reason I thought you where building ANH Quote
JSmails[501st] Posted May 14 Author Report Posted May 14 My rubies armor isn’t exactly white. So in order to get the TD to semi-match the armor, I had to weather it. I think I got it pretty close. It’s certainly not white-white anymore. Closer and closer to submittal. 1 Quote
JSmails[501st] Posted May 19 Author Report Posted May 19 I got suited up today. Let me know if I need any changes for ROTJ TK. Thanks. Quote
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted May 19 Report Posted May 19 You have a few things to address Your right rear shin is not closed properly And shins look too big, large space around your legs Thighs should closer outside over inside, your right rear is closing inside over outside. Could also use tighter strapping between backplate and kidney. Same issue on bicep, these also should be glued closed, they don't need to open. Should close outside over inside. All armor pieces should close outside over inside so also check your forearms, just noticed your front of the thighs also are incorrect. Belt is a little high, covering buttons. You could reduce the gap at your elbows, bring forearms up, will give you more gap at the wrists. If you wish to apply for the higher levels you will need other gloves. You have some white showing on your holster, perhaps paint black so it's not as noticeable. A few adjustments and you should be fine. Quote
JSmails[501st] Posted May 20 Author Report Posted May 20 22 hours ago, gmrhodes13 said: You have a few things to address Your right rear shin is not closed properly And shins look too big, large space around your legs Thighs should closer outside over inside, your right rear is closing inside over outside. Could also use tighter strapping between backplate and kidney. Same issue on bicep, these also should be glued closed, they don't need to open. Should close outside over inside. All armor pieces should close outside over inside so also check your forearms, just noticed your front of the thighs also are incorrect. Belt is a little high, covering buttons. You could reduce the gap at your elbows, bring forearms up, will give you more gap at the wrists. If you wish to apply for the higher levels you will need other gloves. You have some white showing on your holster, perhaps paint black so it's not as noticeable. A few adjustments and you should be fine. OMG. Thanks for ALL the help. I can get the backs of the legs etc. reversed from out to in. That won’t be hard. I don’t think I can do the fronts of the legs and others. If I ripped the seams apart, they are certainly fastened with Stelmax or some other PVC glue, I am quite unlikely to find a cover strip etc. that will match the armor if I try to butt join the sides. Thanks for looking at it. If you have any suggestions on how to “flip” the fronts of the thighs and greaves I’m certainly open to any advice. Thanks very much for the time you spent helping. You’re the best! Time to do some searching and “hopefully” wait for an approval. 1 Quote
JSmails[501st] Posted 8 hours ago Author Report Posted 8 hours ago (edited) I got the word from my GML that my costume was approved today! Is this the longest WIP between start and approval in FISD history? I started the journey in February 2009 and was approved today. Over 17 years. Since my last post I’ve been making all the changes @gmrhodes13 (Glen) suggested. Little by little getting more accurate. I doubt I’ll ever make it to centurion or anything above basic approval, but I’m absolutely happy and grateful for all the help I’ve received here at the FISD on this costume over the (MANY) years. Thanks everyone for the help in getting this costume approved. While I have other costumes (I’m the ROTJ Vader in the CRL pics), stormtroopers have always been my favorite costume ever since I was little watching A New Hope for the first time in May of 1977. I never call a costume “finished”. There is always room for improvement. I am so happy to finally get to call myself TK-38421 and join the ranks of TK’s all around the world. Time to get back to work. Approval is only one point in the quest for accuracy. :) Edited 8 hours ago by JSmails Quote
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