JSmails[TK] Posted April 21 Author Report Posted April 21 Thanks for the encouragement. I HATE my thermal detonator. It ruins the look of the back for me. Anyone have any leads on where I can buy an ROTJ TD? Thanks. Quote
JSmails[TK] Posted April 21 Author Report Posted April 21 One last questions before I start to look, how wide is the elastic on the top straps in back? I don’t think the CRL has the width. From the pics I’ve seen it looks like 1/4”, but it could be 1/2” I suppose. If I don’t find it myself, let me know where to look. Thanks all! Quote
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted April 21 Report Posted April 21 3 hours ago, JSmails said: One last questions before I start to look, how wide is the elastic on the top straps in back? I don’t think the CRL has the width. From the pics I’ve seen it looks like 1/4”, but it could be 1/2” I suppose. If I don’t find it myself, let me know where to look. Thanks all! 13. Elastic- 1 inch wide black for shoulder bells, etc. (4 ft.) 2 inch wide white for ab/back plate shoulder connection (1 ft.), 1 inch wide white for drop boxes, (1 ft.) 1/4 inch wide white** (1 ft.) for shoulder straps. Quote
JSmails[TK] Posted April 22 Author Report Posted April 22 On 4/21/2026 at 4:31 PM, gmrhodes13 said: 13. Elastic- 1 inch wide black for shoulder bells, etc. (4 ft.) 2 inch wide white for ab/back plate shoulder connection (1 ft.), 1 inch wide white for drop boxes, (1 ft.) 1/4 inch wide white** (1 ft.) for shoulder straps. Thank you sir! I’ll definitely have a read through that post. 1 Quote
JSmails[TK] Posted May 7 Author Report Posted May 7 Working on the TD. The CRL has changed (since I started working on this) and the end caps have to be 2CM. Mine were like 3/8” and I didn’t like the look anyway. So I measured and cut some plastic out to make it appear 2CM. And I glued that in place on both ends. Then I had to fill and sand, fill and sand. Here is part of the process. I’m going to have to paint. What color should I use for the grey tube? Is primer filler good enough? How about the white? Any white or is there a specific white? I think TKs with painted sets use appliance white or something. Any help/advice is appreciated! Quote
JSmails[TK] Posted May 7 Author Report Posted May 7 I did some reading and googling and it seems a good paint for TKs and FOTK is Painters Touch gloss white. Probably too white for my Rubies, but I’ll weather it closer once it’s done. Here it is after the white paint was applied. And here it is after the tape is taken off. I have a gloss coat to do to lock in the grey so it doesn’t scratch. But those caps are now 20mm. Should be compliant. Quote
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted May 7 Report Posted May 7 3 hours ago, JSmails said: I have a gloss coat to do to lock in the grey so it doesn’t scratch. But those caps are now 20mm. Should be compliant. That's a large gap between the end caps and the control panel, really up to your GML if he/she/they will approved as is. Control panel round section should be recessed, may also be an issue for your GML. Quote
JSmails[TK] Posted May 9 Author Report Posted May 9 On 5/7/2026 at 5:53 PM, gmrhodes13 said: That's a large gap between the end caps and the control panel, really up to your GML if he/she/they will approved as is. Control panel round section should be recessed, may also be an issue for your GML. Interesting. Here is the ROTJ TD reference I have: Is that not correct? Quote
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted May 9 Report Posted May 9 16 hours ago, JSmails said: Interesting. Here is the ROTJ TD reference I have: Is that not correct? Apologise for some reason I thought you where building ANH Quote
JSmails[TK] Posted May 14 Author Report Posted May 14 My rubies armor isn’t exactly white. So in order to get the TD to semi-match the armor, I had to weather it. I think I got it pretty close. It’s certainly not white-white anymore. Closer and closer to submittal. 1 Quote
JSmails[TK] Posted May 19 Author Report Posted May 19 I got suited up today. Let me know if I need any changes for ROTJ TK. Thanks. Quote
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted May 19 Report Posted May 19 You have a few things to address Your right rear shin is not closed properly And shins look too big, large space around your legs Thighs should closer outside over inside, your right rear is closing inside over outside. Could also use tighter strapping between backplate and kidney. Same issue on bicep, these also should be glued closed, they don't need to open. Should close outside over inside. All armor pieces should close outside over inside so also check your forearms, just noticed your front of the thighs also are incorrect. Belt is a little high, covering buttons. You could reduce the gap at your elbows, bring forearms up, will give you more gap at the wrists. If you wish to apply for the higher levels you will need other gloves. You have some white showing on your holster, perhaps paint black so it's not as noticeable. A few adjustments and you should be fine. Quote
JSmails[TK] Posted May 20 Author Report Posted May 20 22 hours ago, gmrhodes13 said: You have a few things to address Your right rear shin is not closed properly And shins look too big, large space around your legs Thighs should closer outside over inside, your right rear is closing inside over outside. Could also use tighter strapping between backplate and kidney. Same issue on bicep, these also should be glued closed, they don't need to open. Should close outside over inside. All armor pieces should close outside over inside so also check your forearms, just noticed your front of the thighs also are incorrect. Belt is a little high, covering buttons. You could reduce the gap at your elbows, bring forearms up, will give you more gap at the wrists. If you wish to apply for the higher levels you will need other gloves. You have some white showing on your holster, perhaps paint black so it's not as noticeable. A few adjustments and you should be fine. OMG. Thanks for ALL the help. I can get the backs of the legs etc. reversed from out to in. That won’t be hard. I don’t think I can do the fronts of the legs and others. If I ripped the seams apart, they are certainly fastened with Stelmax or some other PVC glue, I am quite unlikely to find a cover strip etc. that will match the armor if I try to butt join the sides. Thanks for looking at it. If you have any suggestions on how to “flip” the fronts of the thighs and greaves I’m certainly open to any advice. Thanks very much for the time you spent helping. You’re the best! Time to do some searching and “hopefully” wait for an approval. 1 Quote
JSmails[TK] Posted June 4 Author Report Posted June 4 (edited) I got the word from my GML that my costume was approved today! Is this the longest WIP between start and approval in FISD history? I started the journey in February 2009 and was approved today. Over 17 years. Since my last post I’ve been making all the changes @gmrhodes13 (Glen) suggested. Little by little getting more accurate. I doubt I’ll ever make it to centurion or anything above basic approval, but I’m absolutely happy and grateful for all the help I’ve received here at the FISD on this costume over the (MANY) years. Thanks everyone for the help in getting this costume approved. While I have other costumes (I’m the ROTJ Vader in the CRL pics), stormtroopers have always been my favorite costume ever since I was little watching A New Hope for the first time in May of 1977. I never call a costume “finished”. There is always room for improvement. I am so happy to finally get to call myself TK-38421 and join the ranks of TK’s all around the world. Time to get back to work. Approval is only one point in the quest for accuracy. :) Edited June 4 by JSmails 2 Quote
shashachu[TK] Posted June 5 Report Posted June 5 Wow, congrats! Makes me feel better about my ongoing 8 year FOTK build. :) Well done. 1 Quote
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted June 5 Report Posted June 5 Congratulations trooper and welcome to the ranks , you can request higher TK access here 1 Quote
JSmails[TK] Posted Tuesday at 04:27 AM Author Report Posted Tuesday at 04:27 AM Okay, I had my Weird Al troop and it was awesome. With trooping comes having to fix stuff. Any help is appreciated. My shins kept sliding down. Is there a way to get them to stay? Previously I had sewn velcro onto my suit on my shins, then put velcro on the inside of the shin armor and that held it in place. Is that the best method? Magnets? Something else? Almost the same question as above…my forearm armor keeps sliding down. How do I get it to stay in place? Elastic into the bicep would help, I suppose, but how would that get put on by oneself? If the elastic is so stretchy I could just pull it long and insert my hand, it won’t stay up by the bicep, and I doubt I could tie the elastic down into the bicep in costume. Maybe I can? I don’t know. The snap at the crotch absolutely will not snap together. Out of costume I can barely get it. In costume, no chance. In all my rehearsals, I can get dressed in everything in about 10 minutes, then I have to mess with the crotch snap for at least 10 minutes before giving up. Is there a better way? Does it have to be a snap or can I do magnets or a giant piece of velcro or something? That’s it for now. Thanks for any help! Quote
Sly11[Admin] Posted Tuesday at 08:05 AM Report Posted Tuesday at 08:05 AM Mine are ideed attached to the Bicep using wide black elastic. You could sew some Velcro on so the length is adjustable, and they can be detached if needed. 1 Quote
JSmails[TK] Posted Tuesday at 01:14 PM Author Report Posted Tuesday at 01:14 PM 5 hours ago, Sly11 said: Mine are ideed attached to the Bicep using wide black elastic. You could sew some Velcro on so the length is adjustable, and they can be detached if needed. Yours are permanently attached to each other? I would guess you put on the bell, bicep, and forearm all at once like a sleeve then have someone help you attach the bell to the shoulder strap. Is that correct? Or is there another way? Is there somewhere around the forum here that tells the best “this is the way” for construction etc.? Thanks. Quote
Sly11[Admin] Posted Tuesday at 02:11 PM Report Posted Tuesday at 02:11 PM 53 minutes ago, JSmails said: Yours are permanently attached to each other? I would guess you put on the bell, bicep, and forearm all at once like a sleeve then have someone help you attach the bell to the shoulder strap. Is that correct? Or is there another way? Is there somewhere around the forum here that tells the best “this is the way” for construction etc.? Thanks. You are correct, I put each arm on assembled and have someone snap the strap at the top of the bells on to the elastic under strap that rune under the shoulder bridge. I can get suited up without help at that point. My bells are also attached with elastic and snaps inside to the bicep to prevent rotation. 1 Quote
shashachu[TK] Posted Tuesday at 08:57 PM Report Posted Tuesday at 08:57 PM I also have my shoulder bell, bicep, and forearm attached with 1 inch elastic. I use snaps so that I can disassemble them to pack them in my bin. When dressing I slide the whole thing on like a sleeve (and I can actually snap the shoulder snap myself but it's certainly easier if someone helps me). Re the crotch snap, have you tried snapping it before you put the torso section on? That's what I do and kind of put it on like pants. Otherwise, I might try setting a new snap to see if it's easier to snap. And for your shins, I can see they're a bit on the short side. Mine rest on my boots so there's nowhere for them to fall. I know some people put Velcro on the top of their boots and then on the inside of the shins, so you could try that, although that's generally to prevent rotation, not falling. You could also try to add some foam to the inside of your shins so they fit a bit more snugly. 1 Quote
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted Tuesday at 10:14 PM Report Posted Tuesday at 10:14 PM Visual references Forearm to bicep strapping is on top of the forearm 1 Quote
JSmails[TK] Posted Wednesday at 03:37 AM Author Report Posted Wednesday at 03:37 AM Thanks for all the help! I should note that I’ve done a LOT of work on the costume since my photos posted on May19th. I tried to do all the mods suggested by @gmrhodes13 I was able to flip everything so that the seams face toward my body, except the fronts of the thighs. I’ve tightened the calves significantly, so I was pretty bummed when they slid down in costume. Before I had velcro sewn to the suit, I use a one piece suit, on the shins then velcro inside the shins to match and keep them in place. I’ll have to experiment with foam or something. Looking at reference photos, the shins are supposed to be up high enough to be touching or almost touching the thighs. I suppose I could drop the thighs a little bit. But the less black the better. I never thought to snap the crotch snap first then put the shell on like pants, then a shirt. I’ll try that for sure before I mod it further. Does anyone have a link to the “poppers” we should be using? I only have line24 snaps and have never used poppers. I’ll have to put up some more recent photos suited up. These aren’t the clearest but were taken at the show. This one is on stage and I clearly have too much black at the knee. Especially when shot from below. Thanks for all the help! 1 Quote
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