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Posted

Thanks for the encouragement. I HATE my thermal detonator. It ruins the look of the back for me.
 

Anyone have any leads on where I can buy an ROTJ TD? Thanks. 

Posted

One last questions before I start to look, how wide is the elastic on the top straps in back? I don’t think the CRL has the width. From the pics I’ve seen it looks like 1/4”, but it could be 1/2” I suppose.  If I don’t find it myself, let me know where to look. 
 

Thanks all!

Posted
3 hours ago, JSmails said:

One last questions before I start to look, how wide is the elastic on the top straps in back? I don’t think the CRL has the width. From the pics I’ve seen it looks like 1/4”, but it could be 1/2” I suppose.  If I don’t find it myself, let me know where to look. 
 

Thanks all!

13.  Elastic-  1 inch wide black for shoulder bells, etc. (4 ft.)  2 inch wide white for ab/back plate shoulder connection (1 ft.), 1 inch wide white for drop boxes, (1 ft.) 1/4 inch wide white** (1 ft.) for shoulder straps.

 

 

 

Posted
On 4/21/2026 at 4:31 PM, gmrhodes13 said:

13.  Elastic-  1 inch wide black for shoulder bells, etc. (4 ft.)  2 inch wide white for ab/back plate shoulder connection (1 ft.), 1 inch wide white for drop boxes, (1 ft.) 1/4 inch wide white** (1 ft.) for shoulder straps.

 

 

 

Thank you sir!  
 

I’ll definitely have a read through that post. 

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Working on the TD. The CRL has changed (since I started working on this) and the end caps have to be 2CM. Mine were like 3/8” and I didn’t like the look anyway. 

So I measured and cut some plastic out to make it appear 2CM. And I glued that in place on both ends. 
 

bxVbmRW.jpeg

 

Then I had to fill and sand, fill and sand. Here is part of the process. 
 

GpGfcpq.jpeg
 

I’m going to have to paint. What color should I use for the grey tube? Is primer filler good enough? How about the white? Any white or is there a specific white? I think TKs with painted sets use appliance white or something. 
 

Any help/advice is appreciated!

Posted

I did some reading and googling and it seems a good paint for TKs and FOTK is Painters Touch gloss white. Probably too white for my Rubies, but I’ll weather it closer once it’s done. Here it is after the white paint was applied. 
 

Y1zFYty.jpeg

 

And here it is after the tape is taken off. 
 

1aQAW5t.jpeg

 

I have a gloss coat to do to lock in the grey so it doesn’t scratch. But those caps are now 20mm. Should be compliant. 

Posted
3 hours ago, JSmails said:


 

1aQAW5t.jpeg

 

I have a gloss coat to do to lock in the grey so it doesn’t scratch. But those caps are now 20mm. Should be compliant. 

That's a large gap between the end caps and the control panel, really up to your GML if he/she/they will approved as is.

 

Control panel round section should be recessed, may also be an issue for your GML.

cc856743d81198f0cf959f91bcc009b4a8c3b6f3

 

Posted
On 5/7/2026 at 5:53 PM, gmrhodes13 said:

That's a large gap between the end caps and the control panel, really up to your GML if he/she/they will approved as is.

 

Control panel round section should be recessed, may also be an issue for your GML.

cc856743d81198f0cf959f91bcc009b4a8c3b6f3

 

Interesting. 
 

Here is the ROTJ TD reference I have:

 

AJOT0lw.jpeg
 

Is that not correct? 

Posted
16 hours ago, JSmails said:

Interesting. 
 

Here is the ROTJ TD reference I have:

 

AJOT0lw.jpeg
 

Is that not correct? 

Apologise for some reason I thought you where building ANH

Posted

My rubies armor isn’t exactly white. So in order to get the TD to semi-match the armor, I had to weather it. I think I got it pretty close. It’s certainly not white-white anymore. Closer and closer to submittal. 
 

cPAZ7qq.jpeg

  • Like 1
Posted

I got suited up today. Let me know if I need any changes for ROTJ TK. Thanks. 
 

ocxTw4G.jpeg

 

Dmf1NfA.jpeg
 

0Di9YEZ.jpeg
 

uGlaUoq.jpeg

Posted

You have a few things to address

 

Your right rear shin is not closed properly 

0Di9YEZ.jpeg

 

And shins look too big, large space around your legs

uGlaUoq.jpeg

 

Thighs should closer outside over inside, your right rear is closing inside over outside. Could also use tighter strapping between backplate and kidney.

Dmf1NfA.jpeg

 

Same issue on bicep, these also should be glued closed, they don't need to open. Should close outside over inside. All armor pieces should close outside over inside so also check your forearms, just noticed your front of the thighs also are incorrect.

0Di9YEZ.jpeg

 

Belt is a little high, covering buttons. You could reduce the gap at your elbows, bring forearms up, will give you more gap at the wrists. If you wish to apply for the higher levels you will need other gloves.

ocxTw4G.jpeg

 

You have some white showing on your holster, perhaps paint black so it's not as noticeable.

 

A few adjustments and you should be fine.

Posted
22 hours ago, gmrhodes13 said:

You have a few things to address

 

Your right rear shin is not closed properly 

0Di9YEZ.jpeg

 

And shins look too big, large space around your legs

uGlaUoq.jpeg

 

Thighs should closer outside over inside, your right rear is closing inside over outside. Could also use tighter strapping between backplate and kidney.

Dmf1NfA.jpeg

 

Same issue on bicep, these also should be glued closed, they don't need to open. Should close outside over inside. All armor pieces should close outside over inside so also check your forearms, just noticed your front of the thighs also are incorrect.

0Di9YEZ.jpeg

 

Belt is a little high, covering buttons. You could reduce the gap at your elbows, bring forearms up, will give you more gap at the wrists. If you wish to apply for the higher levels you will need other gloves.

ocxTw4G.jpeg

 

You have some white showing on your holster, perhaps paint black so it's not as noticeable.

 

A few adjustments and you should be fine.

OMG. Thanks for ALL the help. 
 

I can get the backs of the legs etc. reversed from out to in. That won’t be hard. I don’t think I can do the fronts of the legs and others. If I ripped the seams apart, they are certainly fastened with Stelmax or some other PVC glue, I am quite unlikely to find a cover strip etc. that will match the armor if I try to butt join the sides. 
 

Thanks for looking at it. If you have any suggestions on how to “flip” the fronts of the thighs and greaves I’m certainly open to any advice. Thanks very much for the time you spent helping. You’re the best!

 

Time to do some searching and “hopefully” wait for an approval. 
 

 

  • Like 1
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

I got the word from my GML that my costume was approved today! Is this the longest WIP between start and approval in FISD history? I started the journey in February 2009 and was approved today. Over 17 years. 
 

Since my last post I’ve been making all the changes @gmrhodes13 (Glen) suggested. Little by little getting more accurate. I doubt I’ll ever make it to centurion or anything above basic approval, but I’m absolutely happy and grateful for all the help I’ve received here at the FISD on this costume over the (MANY) years. 
 

Thanks everyone for the help in getting this costume approved. While I have other costumes (I’m the ROTJ Vader in the CRL pics), stormtroopers have always been my favorite costume ever since I was little watching A New Hope for the first time in May of 1977. 
 

I never call a costume “finished”. There is always room for improvement. I am so happy to finally get to call myself TK-38421 and join the ranks of TK’s all around the world. 
 

Time to get back to work. Approval is only one point in the quest for accuracy. :)

 

Edited by JSmails
  • Like 2
Posted

Wow, congrats! Makes me feel better about my ongoing 8 year FOTK build. :) 

 

Well done.

  • Like 1
Posted

Congratulations trooper and welcome to the ranks :duim::salute:, you can request higher TK access here 

 

  • Like 1
Posted

Congratulations Trooper.

  • Like 1
  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

Okay, I had my Weird Al troop and it was awesome. With trooping comes having to fix stuff. Any help is appreciated.

 

My shins kept sliding down. Is there a way to get them to stay? Previously I had sewn velcro onto my suit on my shins, then put velcro on the inside of the shin armor and that held it in place. Is that the best method? Magnets? Something else?

 

Almost the same question as above…my forearm armor keeps sliding down. How do I get it to stay in place? Elastic into the bicep would help, I suppose, but how would that get put on by oneself? If the elastic is so stretchy I could just pull it long and insert my hand, it won’t stay up by the bicep, and I doubt I could tie the elastic down into the bicep in costume. Maybe I can? I don’t know. 
 

The snap at the crotch absolutely will not snap together. Out of costume I can barely get it. In costume, no chance. In all my rehearsals, I can get dressed in everything in about 10 minutes, then I have to mess with the crotch snap for at least 10 minutes before giving up. Is there a better way? Does it have to be a snap or can I do magnets or a giant piece of velcro or something? 
 

That’s it for now. Thanks for any help!

Posted

Mine are ideed attached to the Bicep using wide black elastic. You could sew some Velcro on so the length is adjustable, and they can be detached if needed.

  • Like 1
Posted
5 hours ago, Sly11 said:

Mine are ideed attached to the Bicep using wide black elastic. You could sew some Velcro on so the length is adjustable, and they can be detached if needed.

Yours are permanently attached to each other? 
 

I would guess you put on the bell, bicep, and forearm all at once like a sleeve then have someone help you attach the bell to the shoulder strap. Is that correct? Or is there another way?

 

Is there somewhere around the forum here that tells the best “this is the way” for construction etc.? Thanks. 

Posted
53 minutes ago, JSmails said:

Yours are permanently attached to each other? 
 

I would guess you put on the bell, bicep, and forearm all at once like a sleeve then have someone help you attach the bell to the shoulder strap. Is that correct? Or is there another way?

 

Is there somewhere around the forum here that tells the best “this is the way” for construction etc.? Thanks. 

You are correct, I put each arm on assembled and have someone snap the strap at the top of the bells on to the elastic under strap that rune under the shoulder bridge. I can get suited up without help at that point.

My bells are also attached with elastic and snaps inside to the bicep to prevent rotation.

  • Like 1
Posted

I also have my shoulder bell, bicep, and forearm attached with 1 inch elastic. I use snaps so that I can disassemble them to pack them in my bin. When dressing I slide the whole thing on like a sleeve (and I can actually snap the shoulder snap myself but it's certainly easier if someone helps me).

 

Re the crotch snap, have you tried snapping it before you put the torso section on? That's what I do and kind of put it on like pants. Otherwise, I might try setting a new snap to see if it's easier to snap.

 

And for your shins, I can see they're a bit on the short side. Mine rest on my boots so there's nowhere for them to fall. I know some people put Velcro on the top of their boots and then on the inside of the shins, so you could try that, although that's generally to prevent rotation, not falling. You could also try to add some foam to the inside of your shins so they fit a bit more snugly.

  • Like 1
Posted

Visual references

ib7WUYF.jpg

 

5MSb8Mu.jpg

 

R63O0di.jpg

 

Forearm to bicep strapping is on top of the forearm 

 

mR0HoN7.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted

Thanks for all the help!

 

I should note that I’ve done a LOT of work on the costume since my photos posted on May19th. I tried to do all the mods suggested by @gmrhodes13  I was able to flip everything so that the seams face toward my body, except the fronts of the thighs. 
 

I’ve tightened the calves significantly, so I was pretty bummed when they slid down in costume. Before I had velcro sewn to the suit, I use a one piece suit, on the shins then velcro inside the shins to match and keep them in place. I’ll have to experiment with foam or something. Looking at reference photos, the shins are supposed to be up high enough to be touching or almost touching the thighs. I suppose I could drop the thighs a little bit. But the less black the better. 
 

I never thought to snap the crotch snap first then put the shell on like pants, then a shirt. I’ll try that for sure before I mod it further. 
 

Does anyone have a link to the “poppers” we should be using? I only have line24 snaps and have never used poppers. 
 

I’ll have to put up some more recent photos suited up. 
 

These aren’t the clearest but were taken at the show. 
 

Rb3NQd1.jpeg

 

This one is on stage and I clearly have too much black at the knee. Especially when shot from below. 
 

HXwqZYH.jpeg
 

Thanks for all the help!

 

  • Like 1

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