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The new home for Night Troopers as seen in the Disney+ series Ahsoka

This thread is for the creation of the CRL for this costume, please keep all discussion relevant to the main goal.

 

1B0rkU6.jpg

 

 

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  • Sly11 changed the title to Welcome to the Night trooper resource thread for CRL creation

Below is an amended R1 TK CRL, I have ommitted items like the batton and Pauldron and some blasters that were not seen in use in the Ahsoka series .

 

Required Costume Components
The following costume components are present and appear as described below.


Helmet
Traps (trapezoids on dome of helmet) and tears (area beneath the corners of eye lenses) are gray.
Rear traps and tears have engraved vertical black lines.
Lenses can be flat material, green in color, sufficiently dark enough to obscure the costumer's eyes.
The “ear” bars are gray or painted gray, with the largest bar oval cutout painted black.
Frown is painted gray and does not leave the teeth area. The space between the 8 teeth is hollow and backed with Black or Dark grey wire screen mesh.
Tube stripes are medium blue, numbering 12 per side. The stipes are straight, not curved like ANH.
Vocoder (vertically ribbed chin detail) is painted black.
Aerators/Hovi mix tips (cylinders on either side of the vocoder) have a black exterior and silver in color screen mesh.
Tears and traps may not be hand-painted.
Tube stripes are recessed, and the recessed section painted blue or backed by blue mesh.
Note: The helmet is accurate in detail and proportion to official references. Many commercially available helmets or those considered disproportionate in size or shape are ineligible. The Black Series helmet is approvable if modified to meet the level 1 CRLs.

Light to medium weathering as per reference images.

Cracks may be painted on surface in metalic gold paint.

 

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):
Lenses have a very slight curve and are convex in style. Flat lenses and ANH style bubble lenses are not permissible.
Rank bar area on ear must be of the correct RO style and pattern, no ANH style ear bumps allowed.
Head opening has black trim running all along the edge.
Brow trim should be positioned ¼" above the eyes.
Ear screws must not have a visible slot mark and be flush to the ear.
Any gap between the ears and helmet will only appear to be a seam, not any bigger.
Correct 'Hovi mic' aerator tips.
Chin section has a well defined seam from the angles of the mouth.

Light to medium weathering as per references

Cracks must be dremmelled or engraved into helmet.

Cracks may be painted in metalic gold paint


OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable):
The Tube stripes are completely hollowed out with a blue section underneath.
Vocoder is tubular in nature with 7 vertical tubes. A visible gap must be present between the Vocoder and the helmet.
The inside of each tear will be a raised area that is grey, with 8 engraved black lines, hand painted lines like ANH are not permitted.
The frown shall be recessed to the proper depth, unlike standard ANH.
The inside of each rear trap will be a raised area that is grey, with 13 engraved black vertical lines, hand painted lines like ANH are not permitted.
The inside of each side trap will be a raised area that is grey.
There is a small bump in the right eye socket (when worn) under the lens as an intended flaw to pay tribute to the original trilogy designers.

Green LED that can be switched on and off representing both living and the reserected Night trooper shall be fitted behind the lenses.

TK anh stunt neckseal.jpeg    Neck Seal
Black with horizontal ribs, fitted to the wearer, and extending from the base of the neck to conceal the entire neck.

Cracks must be dremmelled or engraved into helmet.

Cracks must be gold leaf, gold paint is not permitted.

 


Under Suit
Black non-textured material, either one-piece or two-piece construction with no visible zippers or logos/designs.

 

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):
Top, where visible shall be fully ribbed with all horizontal ribbing on the arms, chest, and back. The centre of chest and back may be mesh as long as it is covered by armor.
Pants shall be black non-textured material and have horizontal ribbing at the knees only. Knee gaskets are allowed as long as they correctly match top ribbing material, spacing and color.
The hip section shall not have ribs.

 

OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable):
All ribbing on knees, arms, chest, and back must be stitched between each rib in detail and proportion to official references.
The armpit area shall have the correct hexagonal mesh detail 

 

 

Shoulder Straps
They may be affixed with Velcro or adhesive.

Light to medium weathering as per references

Cracks may be painted on surface in metalic gold paint.

Weathering details, Gold and gray adorntments etc to be added.

 

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):


OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable):
These shall be inserted behind the chest tabs and into slots of the backplate.


Shoulder Armor
One on each shoulder.
The shoulders are considered effectively symmetrical; they may be worn interchangeably on the left and right shoulders and may have a black elastic strap that wraps around the inside of the bicep.

Light to medium weathering as per references

Cracks may be painted on surface in metalic gold paint.

Weathering details, Gold and gray adorntments etc to be added.

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):


OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable):
There is no swoop on the shoulder bell raised area.
There is no elastic strap that wraps around the inside of the bicep.

 

Weathering details, Gold and gray adorntments etc to be added.

 

Upper Arm Armor
Both biceps are symmetrical and interchangeable.
The front strip is bevelled and approximately ⅛" thick that does not extend beyond the bicep, and has a smaller cover strip layered thereon.

Light to medium weathering as per references

Cracks may be painted on surface in metalic gold paint.

 

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):
 

OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable):
Cover strips will cover both the front and back joints.
Biceps are loosely held closed in the back with elastic, shock cord (bungee cord) or white Velcro and are designed to remain flexible.

 

Weathering details, Gold and gray adorntments etc to be added.


Forearm Armor
The front strip is bevelled and approximately ⅛" thick that does not extend beyond the bicep, and has a smaller cover strip layered thereon.

Light to medium weathering as per references

Cracks may be painted on surface in metalic gold paint.

 

Weathering details, Gold and gray adorntments etc to be added.

 

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):


OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable):
Forearms are loosely held closed in the back with elastic, shock cord (bungee cord) or white Velcro and are designed to remain flexible.
Cover strips will cover both the top and bottom joints.

 

Weathering details, Gold and gray adorntments etc to be added.

 


Hand Plates
Roughly pentagonal in shape, the hand plates are mounted securely over the back of the glove. As an alternative to plastic, these may be made out of latex or latex-like material.

Light to medium weathering as per references

Cracks may be painted on surface in metalic gold paint.

 

Weathering details, Gold and gray adorntments etc to be added.

 

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):
Hand guards shall be made of plastic.

 

Weathering details, Gold and gray adorntments etc to be added.

OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable):
Hand guards should follow the correct RO shape, ANH hand guards are not acceptable.
A small indent in the front of the hand plate shall be present.

 

Weathering details, Gold and gray adorntments etc to be added.

 

 

Gloves
Black in color, made of Nomex, leather, or leather-like material, with no visible straps or logos/designs. The fingers are enclosed, non-textured. Rubber ANH style gloves are not permitted.

 

Weathering details, Gold and gray adorntments etc to be added.

 

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):
The base material of the gloves will be a black synthetic material similar to Lycra, Spandex, Elastane, or Nylon.
Palms of gloves shall be shiny black fabric or leather or leather-like material.
On the index finger shall be a stitched piece of fabric made from the same material as the hand's underside that while stitched to the finger has one cutout towards the end of the finger that reveals the netted material underneath.
Gloves shall have the correct leather pattern along the fingers/palm.

 

Weathering details, Gold and gray adorntments etc to be added.

 

OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable):

 


Chest Armor
Chest plate overlaps the abdominal plate

Light to medium weathering as per references

Cracks may be painted on surface in metalic gold paint.

 

Weathering details, Gold and gray adorntments etc to be added.

 

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):
There are raised trapezoids at the top of the shoulder section beneath which the straps insert.
The chest and back sides shall be connected by black extensions pieces.

 

Weathering details, Gold and gray adorntments etc to be added.

 

OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable):
Top pectoral out lines swoop correctly outward.
Bottom of ribcage flares correctly outward.

 

Weathering details, Gold and gray adorntments etc to be added.


Back Armor
Back plate contains an "O II" design.
There are raised trapezoids at the top of the backplate section beneath which the shoulder straps insert. The backplate continues past these trapezoids towards the top of the shoulder

Light to medium weathering as per references

Cracks may be painted on surface in metalic gold paint.

 

Weathering details, Gold and gray adorntments etc to be added.

 

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):
Top of box wall has a trapezoidal indentation.
There is a roughly 8mm circular indent near the right top corner of the backplate.

 

Weathering details, Gold and gray adorntments etc to be added.

 

OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable):
Bottom of backplate is curved and extends past abdominal back cover plate.
The O cog shall have 16 spines.
The 11 bars have 5 horizontal evenly spaced raised bars on the bottom of the face.
There is a rectangular tab protruding from the bottom of each of the two raised trapezoids at the top of the backplate.

 

Weathering details, Gold and gray adorntments etc to be added.

 

 

Abdomen Armor
The abdominal armor consists of a one-piece corset design with a vertical opening centered on the back.
The back opening is covered by a rectangular cover plate that is worn under the back armor.
There are 3 vertical ribs centered on the front of the abdomen and two (one left and one right) ribs further spaced to each side of the center.
There are two (one left and one right) angled (approximately 70 degrees) ribs on each side of the abdominal armor.
There are two (one left and one right) angled (approximately 70 degrees) recessed ribs on each side of the abdominal armor behind the raised angled ribs that are black
Any side shims added are to be added to the white areas of the armor.
The center front detail consists of a raised rectangular panel. On the right half of the panel, there is a vertical column of 4 buttons approximately ⁷⁄₁₆" (11mm) in diameter. The bottom button is blue while the other three are grey. On the left half of the panel, there is a vertical column of raised evenly spaced horizontal gear teeth with a recessed trapezoid at the top of the column. The rectangular inside bottom of the trapezoid is black.
The left front detail consists of a raised rectangular panel with an angled top. There is a vertical column of 4 buttons approximately ⁷⁄₁₆" (11mm) in diameter. The bottom button is blue while the other three are grey.
The right front detail consists of a primary raised rectangular panel with an additional secondary raised rectangular panel covering the top ⅓ of the primary panel. There is a column of three thin horizontal evenly spaced raised lines across the top ½ of the secondary panel.
The abdominal armor is accurate in detail and proportion to official references.

Light to medium weathering as per references

Cracks may be painted on surface in metalic gold paint.

 

Weathering details, Gold and gray adorntments etc to be added.

 

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):
The cod armor is separate from the abdominal armor.
The right front detail panel is centered between the two outer vertical right ribs.
The left front detail panel is centered between the two outer vertical left ribs.

 

Weathering details, Gold and gray adorntments etc to be added.

 

OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable):
The abdomen armor has two horizontal recessed rectangles centered above the center front detail panel and on each side of the center rib.
All 8 Button details are recessed and bordered with a thin edge, only the recessed portion is painted.
The center front panel column of raised gear teeth has only 9 teeth.
There is a recessed edge (approximately ⅛" 3mm wide) along all four sides around the face of the center front panel
The right front detail panel is centered between the two outer vertical right ribs.
The left front detail panel is centered between the two outer vertical left ribs.
There is a recessed edge (approximately ⅛" 3mm wide) along the sides and top around the face of the left front detail pane
The abdominal armor back cover plate has two protruding tabs along the bottom that rest inside the back hard belt.

 

Weathering details, Gold and gray adorntments etc to be added.

 


Cod Armor
The cod armor consists of a body shape formed triangular plate with a raised center rib and raised lower portion and is accurate in detail and proportion to official references.

Light to medium weathering as per references

Cracks may be painted on surface in metalic gold paint.

 

Weathering details, Gold and gray adorntments etc to be added.

 

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):
The cod shall be a separate piece from the abdominal plate.

 

Weathering details, Gold and gray adorntments etc to be added.

 

OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable):

 


Kidney Armor
The kidney armor is separated in the back and covered by a rectangular plate.
The rectangular plate is separate from the posterior armor.

Light to medium weathering as per references

Cracks may be painted on surface in metalic gold paint.

 

Weathering details, Gold and gray adorntments etc to be added.

 

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):

 

OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable):

 


Posterior Armor
The posterior armor shall be a separate piece from the abdominal armor

Light to medium weathering as per references

Cracks may be painted on surface in metalic gold paint.

 

Weathering details, Gold and gray adorntments etc to be added.

 

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):

 

OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable):

 


Belt
The Ammunition belt consists of a hard belt made of the same or similar material as the armor in two separate parts front and back (with overlap).
The back belt overlaps the front belt on the sides.
There are 6 ammunition boxes mounted to the belt.
There are 2 (one left and one right) drop boxes suspended by black webbing approximately 2" (50mm) wide. Drop boxes must be accurate in detail and proportion to official references.
The ammunition belt is accurate in detail and proportion to official references.

Light to medium weathering as per references

Cracks may be painted on surface in metalic gold paint.

 

Weathering details, Gold and gray adorntments etc to be added.

 

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):
The only detail visible on the front belt is the mounted ammunition boxes unlike the squares present on ANH belts.
The top edge of the front belt has protruding teeth that nest inside gaps between the ribs and detail panels of the abdominal armor.
The two center ammunition boxes are thinner than the other mounted ammunition boxes.
The second and fifth mounted ammunition boxes are slightly wider than the two center ammunition boxes.
The two outermost ammunition boxes are almost square.
The two drop boxes are rectangular and as wide as the mounted square boxes.

 

Weathering details, Gold and gray adorntments etc to be added.

 

OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable):
The ammo boxes across the front are all made separately from the main belt and are secured to it
The two drop boxes hang no more than 1" 25mm below the front belt and the black strap is visible.
The second and fifth mounted ammunition boxes have trapezoid detail on the top of each ammunition box.
The front belt protrudes past all mounted ammunition boxes above and below by approximately ⅛"–¼" 3–6mm.
All ammunition boxes have slightly beveled edges on the face of each box. 

 

Weathering details, Gold and gray adorntments etc to be added.

 

 

Thermal Detonator
The thermal detonator consists of a grey tube approximately 3" 76mm in diameter and 8" 203mm long approximately.
There are two white endcaps and a white control panel.
The white control panel has a horizontal row of white rectangles along the bottom of the control panel and a grey “D” shaped recessed on the left side of the horizontal row.
There is an oval greeble that protrudes from the control near the top right side.
The thermal detonator is mounted to the rear hard belt and there are no visible screws or clips and is accurate in detail and proportion to official references.

Light to medium weathering as per references

Cracks may be painted on surface in metalic gold paint.

 

Weathering details, Gold and gray adorntments etc to be added.

 

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):
The thermal detonator mount should be fully enclosed with solid walls on all four sides.
The center of both end caps is gray.

 

Weathering details, Gold and gray adorntments etc to be added.

 

OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable):
The control panel bottom detail is a raised panel with 7 raised rectangles, all are evenly spaced except the right most rectangle.
There is a panel line approximately ¼" 6mm from the edge around the control panel.
There is a panel line approximately ⅛" 3mm from the edge of each endcap.
The inside edge of both endcaps is beveled.
The oval greeble consists of an oval tube protrusion with the top edge slightly extending past the tube wall thickness and is visually similar to the Deathtrooper chin greeble.

 

Weathering details, Gold and gray adorntments etc to be added.

 

 

Thigh Armor
The thigh armor is mirrored for each leg and not interchangeable.
The cover strips are beveled and approximately ⅛" thick that does not extend beyond the thigh and has a smaller cover strip layered thereon.
The top edge of the thigh armor is unadorned, and the bottom edge has a raised detail that fallows the bottom edge contour.
The small ammo belt consists of 5 evenly spaced rectangle ammunition boxes and is installed on the bottom of the right thigh, there are no visible screws or rivets.

Light to medium weathering as per references

Cracks may be painted on surface in metalic gold paint.

 

Weathering details, Gold and gray adorntments etc to be added.

 

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):
Thighs are loosely held closed in the back with elastic, shock cord (bungee cord) or white Velcro and are designed to remain flexible.
Cover strips will cover both the front and rear joints.

 

Weathering details, Gold and gray adorntments etc to be added.

 

OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable):
The bottom outside edges of the small ammunition belt are angled at approximately 45 degrees.
Thigh armor is suspended by a black strap approximately 1" 25mm in width with a plastic side release buckle that is covered by black webbing or elastic that runs down the side seam of the leg.

 

Weathering details, Gold and gray adorntments etc to be added.


Lower Leg Armor
The greaves are mirrored for each leg and are not interchangeable.
The top edge of the greaves has a raised detail that fallows the top edge contour.
The bottom edge of the greaves flairs out to cover the top of the ankle and boots.
The cover strips are beveled and approximately ⅛" thick that does not extend beyond the greave and has a smaller cover strip layered thereon.
Greaves are loosely held closed in the back with elastic, shock cord (bungee cord) or white Velcro and are designed to remain flexible.
Cover strips will cover both the front and rear joints.
The trapezoid knee plate (sniper knee plate) is affixed to the top of the left greave and there are no visible screws or rivets.
Sniper knee plate must be aligned with the vertical cover strip and the top raised edge detail on the greave and is accurate in detail and proportion to official reference.

Light to medium weathering as per references

Cracks may be painted on surface in metalic gold paint.

 

Weathering details, Gold and gray adorntments etc to be added.

 

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):
The sniper knee plate has raised detail that fallows the top edge contour.
The sniper knee plate has 3 trapezoidal lugs on each side and 2 on the center bottom edge (totalling 8) of the knee plate.

 

Weathering details, Gold and gray adorntments etc to be added.

 

OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable):

 


Boots
Boots are above ankle height and the same style as the First Order TK. Chelsea type boots in the style of OT TK are not acceptable.
Boots are all white and made of leather or leather-like material
Flat black soles without a heel.
Patent leather or high gloss is not permitted.

Light to medium weathering as per references

Cracks may be painted on surface in metalic gold paint.

 

Weathering details, Gold and gray adorntments etc to be added.

 

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):
There is no seam present on the front of the boot.
The wearer's inner side of the boots have zippers and no side elastic.

 

Weathering details, Gold and gray adorntments etc to be added.

 

OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable):

 


Optional Accessories
Items below are optional costume accessories. These items are not required for approval, but if present appear as described below. If adding in an accessory after initial approval, the item still needs to be submitted to local GML for approval before use.


E-11 Blaster
Manufactured by BlasTech Industries, the E-11 is standard-issue for many Imperial troops. Light, compact yet powerful, the E-11 blaster is always in high demand throughout the galaxy.

"Note, the E-11 holster as seen in the Original Trilogy movies is not an authorized accessory for rogue One armor".
Based on a real or replica Sterling Airsoft Gun, Sterling Sub-Machine Gun, scratch-built, or a modified commercial toy Stormtrooper blaster.
A small flashlight  can be mounted on the right side of the blaster centred over the T-Tracks.

 

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):
Blaster shall be based on a real or replica S&T Sterling L2A1 AEG Airsoft Gun. (Folding Stock does not need to function)
D-Ring shall be present on the rear end cap.
Scope shall be a real or replica M.H.R. (Minneapolis Honeywell Regulator Co.) M38 Telescope. 1943 model is preferred.
Counter shall be a real or replica Hengstler 400 Series counter. Eagle logo is preferred.
Power Cylinders shall be mounted on top of the magazine well. R1 style power cylinders are preferred over ANH style.
6 rows of T-Tracks cover the Sterling receiver holes except for the lower left row with the bayonet lug.
Flashlight
if fitted shall be a real or replica Element M300A Mini Scout Light.
3D printed blasters can not contain visible print lines and must be sanded smooth for a more realistic appearance.

 

OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable):
Scope shall be a real or replica 1943 M.H.R. Co. M38 Telescope, 1942 model is not allowed.
Counter shall be a real or replica Hengstler 400 Series counter with Small eagle logo. Large eagle logo is not allowed.
Power Cylinders shall be R1 style, ANH style is not allowed.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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  • 1 month later...

Suggestions for the additional finishes of the Night trooper.

First draft only, this is open to more in depth descriptions, adjustments, and language refinement.

 

Basic Lvl

Light to medium weathering as per reference.

Cracks may be painted on the surface of the armour with metallic gold paint.

 

EI lvl

Light to medium weathering as per reference.

Cracks must be Dremelled / engraved into armour

Cracks may be painted in metallic gold paint.

 

Centurion lvl

Light to medium weathering as per reference.

Cracks must be Dremelled / engraved into armour

Cracks must be filled in gold leaf, gold metallic paint is not permissible.

 

Wraps

Basic

Red wraps/bandages may be of a similar look to references

 

EI lvl2

Red wraps/bandages must be Chiffon material, wrapped in layers and distressed with fraying edges as per references?????

 

Centurion N/A

 

Grey painted components.

We need to decide on a close shade of grey, and defer to references on what parts can be painted, how many is too many grey painted parts on a single costume etc.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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10 hours ago, Sweatshop said:

I feel like a test is worth doing with the same Tear/Trap color 1138 gray matte paint. As far as I can see it looks like the traps look to match the “unpainted” gray parts of those troopers. Partially weathered but looks to me the same base.

The traps on the RO helmets are cast in a light/medium grey material, the darker colour here will be down to weathering.  The painted chest I would say is darker than 1138, but the weathering makes a start colour hard as it will have changed a lot applying the grot.

 

11 hours ago, Sly11 said:

Centurion lvl

Light to medium weathering as per reference.

Cracks must be Dremelled / engraved into armour

Cracks must be filled in gold leaf, gold metallic paint is not permissible.

Looking at the above reference some cracks look to be filled with grime not gold.  Though given how dirty they are "both" might be what's going on.

 

11 hours ago, Sly11 said:

Grey painted components.

We need to decide on a close shade of grey, and defer to references on what parts can be painted, how many is too many grey painted parts on a single costume etc.

Looking at screen grabs less is more. It seems that they have roughly 1 grey component 2 at most.  So just a chest, or just the helmet, a some have none.  The ones with 2 seem to be a shoulder and something around the same size, like the dome of the helmet.

 

It may be too loose if you go with "follow the reference" but if you set a hard limit of 2 then unless they do a chest and helmet you shouldn't end up too far away.  A list of known gray parts or combos might be handy too.

1 Helmet bar tube and ears (https://imgur.com/cm7Y0Jd)
2 Partial (approx 75-80% coverage) of chest plate (above reference)

3 Partial (approx 75-80% coverage) helmet dome + one shoulder bell. (https://imgur.com/9ewDVqd)

4 One shoulder bell (https://imgur.com/9ewDVqd)

 

Not a complete list I am sure but it's a start.

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Agree with your observations on grime and gold in the cracks. I think that will indeed boil down to weathering and adding the grime.  It would be best or even easier to add the gold leaf first, then the grime over the top.

Seems to be quite a few combos of 2 grey parts as thighs, bells helmet sections Bicep etc. due to the number of combos and for the sake of flexibility and or difference, it would be easier to have a series of images in the reference library separating all the different images of TK's and their combos. If we go that route, knowing there were 17-20 full TK's modified for the screen, will that make it easier or more complex.

 Definitely need more discussion on the best way forward with that, and am interested to hear more opinions and ideas.

We haven't had a costume with this level of complexity, and so many seen on screen, having clear differences.

20 possibilities feels like a lot to build into a CRL, and if it were a full army, would there be more combinations? 

Builder's discretion and a list of seen on-screen grey parts is also different from what we have done before, but could look like an easy option.

These troopers are definitely about a builders' creativity on multiple levels for finish.

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Is it confirmed that gold leaf was used specifically in the cracks? I get the larger patches (and Enoch) using gold leaf, but logically I'd assume the cracks are just painted, or filled using something like gold Rub'nBuff? Would the costume team/artists really have gone to the length of gold leafing all the cracks on not one, but multiple sets of armour..?

Has anyone done tests on filling dremelled cracks with gold leaf? I can't imagine it being consistent nor easy.

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I am waiting on confirmation, and you could be well right.

Hope to have more info soon, but with the holiday period, it may be a while.

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  • 2 months later...
On 12/22/2023 at 1:42 AM, Jedxh said:

Is it confirmed that gold leaf was used specifically in the cracks? I get the larger patches (and Enoch) using gold leaf, but logically I'd assume the cracks are just painted, or filled using something like gold Rub'nBuff? Would the costume team/artists really have gone to the length of gold leafing all the cracks on not one, but multiple sets of armour..?

Has anyone done tests on filling dremelled cracks with gold leaf? I can't imagine it being consistent nor easy.

 

Having heard from someone who worked on the suits, they were originally gold leafed, and then switched to gold paint for repairs, so there was plenty of both on screen.

However, requiring gold leaf at any level does not sound like a reasonable proposal for hobbyists. I would advocate for an open-ended wording and not specifying the source of the gold color in the CRL.

 

What is the latest status of this CRL?

Edited by TheRascalKing
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8 hours ago, dblcross said:

So How do you create a CRL on a costume that's got so many variations? Grey on this ab plate but not that one....

Right!, this is an unusual one for FISD with so many variations, and something that will be under discussion to work out how we get some kind of balance between flexibility and what we see on screen.

I think one important factor is to try and keep it easy, not convoluted, which in turn can get confusing.

This is only an extreme example, but we don't see an all grey Night Trooper on screen, so that seems logical to dismiss.

We do see several different combinations of components in grey, but what might be nice is to simply have a minimum of say one grey component, and possibly a maximum of Three.

That's if you wish to have grey components because quite a few had none. (options!!!)

Find one on screen you like and match it, or even make your own combo of 1 to 3 components, or none of course.

I agree there are so many possibilities, this could be our fist CRL that allows more flare than others because they are so different and so many.

Then there is the cracking, I really feel that should be an open aspect, we are not trying to make a level like MEPD where you must pick one and make it exactly like the picture for Level 3.

Personally, I've never been against having a new level to go that extreme, but there has never seemed to be much interest to pursue it.

 

I am interested to hear from as many members and staff as possible so we can land on common ground to be honest.

Above is only an idea to drive conversation and move us forward, but it is a great question to have asked.

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14 minutes ago, Sly11 said:

Right!, this is an unusual one for FISD with so many variations, and something that will be under discussion to work out how we get some kind of balance between flexibility and what we see on screen.

I think one important factor is to try and keep it easy, not convoluted, which in turn can get confusing.

This is only an extreme example, but we don't see an all grey Night Trooper on screen, so that seems logical to dismiss.

We do see several different combinations of components in grey, but what might be nice is to simply have a minimum of say one grey component, and possibly a maximum of Three.

That's if you wish to have grey components because quite a few had none. (options!!!)

Find one on screen you like and match it, or even make your own combo of 1 to 3 components, or none of course.

I agree there are so many possibilities, this could be our fist CRL that allows more flare than others because they are so different and so many.

Then there is the cracking, I really feel that should be an open aspect, we are not trying to make a level like MEPD where you must pick one and make it exactly like the picture for Level 3.

Personally, I've never been against having a new level to go that extreme, but there has never seemed to be much interest to pursue it.

 

I am interested to hear from as many members and staff as possible so we can land on common ground to be honest.

Above is only an idea to drive conversation and move us forward, but it is a great question to have asked.

I think it sounds like a way forward to find common ground to have the grey components optional and then from a defined list of variations as seen on screen, pick a maximum of 3 (or something) of those!

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A big task that's for sure. Even the scarlet wrapping is so different from trooper to trooper. Once y'all figure that out, it'll be easy to have the undead version! Illuminated Green eyes and a limp. :0Lighten:

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10 hours ago, dblcross said:

A big task that's for sure. Even the scarlet wrapping is so different from trooper to trooper. Once y'all figure that out, it'll be easy to have the undead version! Illuminated Green eyes and a limp. :0Lighten:

At least we know the exact material for the wrapping, but again a possibility that the wrapping is also artistic license as long as it resembles the application rather than the positioning.

20 different CRL's for the one costume, an absolute Night trooper mare! See what I did there :laugh1:

 

The complete costumes I've seen on FB posts have all looked pretty awesome, regardless of what armour the person used, some followed a particular seen on screen trooper, others just went for it and WOW!

 

So far the only thing settled on is that 100% they were R1 costumes used, our source from the set confirmed it was between 17 and 20 full sets that were Dremelled, painted, Gold Leafed, and they thought it was funny that they used every costume they could get their hands on. The thought was, so what are they going to do now there are no standard white R1 TK kits left.

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  • 1 month later...
On 2/23/2024 at 2:16 AM, TheRascalKing said:

Having heard from someone who worked on the suits, they were originally gold leafed, and then switched to gold paint for repairs, so there was plenty of both on screen.

However, requiring gold leaf at any level does not sound like a reasonable proposal for hobbyists. I would advocate for an open-ended wording and not specifying the source of the gold color in the CRL.

 

Damn, how'd I miss this reply.. my main concern was potentially having to use gold leaf in the cracks too. It also makes sense that any leafing on the cracks would need paint repairs as gold leaf is usually done on smooth surfaces. So I completely agree with it being more open ended.

 

Based off of that info, maybe dremelled/engraved cracks with metallic gold paint OR gold leaf should be requirements for level 2 and 3, leaving the "painted on surface" option for base approval as is? Essentially more options whilst still maintaining higher detail requirements for higher approval levels.

 

I also think the larger patches and sections of gold should be addressed in the CRL as only the cracks seem to be mentioned in the draft. Maybe have it the same as the cracks, but worded something like "Larger patches of gold may be gold leaf, OR painted with metallic gold paint to match the appearance of gold leaf." That way, it allows for paint options and either real or imitation gold leaf to be used.

 

My two cents.

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The way I’ve been drafting it on Enoch, which is based on this draft, is lvl1 can be painted on lvl2 engraved but can be paint and then lvl 3 is engraved and “gold coloured leaf”. Doesn’t have to be actual gold, but leaf does look very different to paint so I think is a valid step up for the top level. This applies to cracks and patches. 
 

Once cleared if you need to make repairs then how you handle that is going to be based on personal choice, what you have to hand, time and cost considerations. 
 

All still open to discussion, but that needs to start with something. 

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That approach made the most sense top me Chris, and it gives options at each level.

Centurion should always be closes to the source information we can get.

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