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power source for iComm and bluetooth


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I am trying to use the iComm wirelessly with the MR1506 Aker built into the chest plate.  It seems the iComm needs a power source if it isn't connected directly to the Aker amp.  Any suggestions on how to get power to the iComm?

 

I'm using their passive condenser mic, TaoTronics bluetooth rx/tx (which pair just fine), Aker MR1506 Amp. 

 

Condenser mic->iComm Mic; iComm output->TaoTronics TT-BA07 in TX mode paired.

 

Taotronics TT-BA07->Line-In MR 1506 Amp.

 

The issue seems to be the iComm LED doesn't sense voice and needs power from the amp.

 

Any help would be appreciated.

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1. Aker input to iComm output

2. iComm input to hardwired or wireless mic. (note: when using a wireless mic there will be a microsecond delay when speaking)

3. Power on the Aker and adjust volume

 

If this doesn't work remove the iComm and test audio system. If works without it then the 3.3v battery inside the iComm housing is probably dead and will need to be replaced. 

 

Hope this helps

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After usage or storage over time the Icomm internal battery can loose the ability to hold a charge, you can replace the internal battery or add an external which @sly came up with, I use this and still going 8 years later.

 

Many of us keep the aker and icomm behind the chest, the image below is not mine, I have them tightly together held with elastic with velcro sewn on the back. Also have a small ABS ledge of angled plastic below to stop them falling down.

4801559165_e45b255a60.jpg

 

 

Some use an icomm and hovi tip speakers

IMG_8173.JPG_zpstn16tg10.jpeg

 

 

A few  keep them strapped together on their neck

vqMpxu.jpg

 

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  • 1 year later...
On 1/5/2021 at 6:15 PM, cnsf said:

Cool, thank you.  I'm still going to try and work out a bluetooth solution (which @kamikaze has already done). Good to know both the iComm and the MR1506 will fit behind the chest plate.

As I am attempting the same type of bucket build, I have run into the same question. I'm not sure these posts completely answer/address the OP.  Does this AA battery provide the icomm power instead of the Aker? Or along side?

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Icomm has an internal battery, the Aker has an internal battery. so both are powered.

If you are referring to the external mod for a battery, that is simply to replace a failed internal battery on an icomm.

As the icomm is not an amplifier, simply a modulator with clicks and chirps, you do require some form of powered amp, the Aker is just the weapon of choice due to its compact size and great volume.

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The Icomm battery does take some power from the Aker to remain charged, it has an active connection on the amp jack, note not all types of amplifiers have this that is why they specify using an Aker amp with the Icomm unit.

About this item

Self contained protected box that gets it power from the VoiceBooster Voice Amplifier

 

I still recharge my external battery mod every 6 months or so as it can loose some power, we are comparing a AA to a button battery so the draw/charge would be a lot different, may also just be the battery getting old though.

 

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18 hours ago, Sly11 said:

Icomm has an internal battery, the Aker has an internal battery. so both are powered.

If you are referring to the external mod for a battery, that is simply to replace a failed internal battery on an icomm.

As the icomm is not an amplifier, simply a modulator with clicks and chirps, you do require some form of powered amp, the Aker is just the weapon of choice due to its compact size and great volume.

OK, cool. That's what I figured.

 

   Some of the others here I think were confused on what this mod was addressing. I actually stumbled across this post due to asking the same question as the OP. I believe the OP was attempting to accomplish what I just did. Which is a wireless setup for the voice mod/amp.  The part he and myself were getting stuck on was how to power the iComm while allowing sound to pass from the iComm to the BT transmitter. 

 

    At first I tried a splitter on the iComm output jack which allowed power from the Aker in and audio out to the BT TX unit.. This made the overall profile too big to fit my head plus everything else.    Then, I made a custom audio cable that plugged onboard (via the JST PH connector, aka "speaker") to the Aker in my bucket to the BT TX unit. This worked but made the sound more garbled then it should be. Also this method caused me to have to precisely adjust the volume to both the Aker in my bucket AND in my chest plate. This was a huge pain and again made it sound garbled.  Finally! I had an epiphany. I plugged a condenser mic directly into the BT TX unit and moved the iComm to my chest plate. Connected the RX unit to the iComm and then to the Aker in the chest plate. To my surprise IT WORKED!   This final method fixed the garbled sound, eliminated having to adjust two volumes, and most importantly negated the need for the second Aker. Which also freed up room/weight in the bucket.  I figured I would share this in case it might benefit someone trying to accomplish a wireless build.

 

Method of success:  [Mic (powered condenser) > BT TX] (Bucket)  --  [BT RX > iComm > Aker] (Chest Plate)

NQHUcy5.jpg

JDDTpAR.jpg

 

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Yes i did forget to mention that the icomm will still leach power from the amp, and as Glen pointed out, they specifically call out the Aker brand as compatible.

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What mic did you use?  I'm right in the middle of ordering parts.  I just did the icomm and acker order.  I've been looking at small BT TX/RX on Amazon.  Not sure if I can jus use a regular headset mic or would be better to upgrade it.  I like the idea of no wire between the chest and head and if I could just get away with fans and a TX in the helmet that would be nice.

 

Bart

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I still use the original mic it cam with, but I do have a headset mic for my PC, I should try and see if it works.

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