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Sea_Marshall

Sea_Marshall: Captain Phasma TFA

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Bleh. Day 2 of fiberglassing. This time I remembered to close the balcony door. I am not a fan of fiberglass. But the end result will be awesome. 

 

The first thigh held up good! I let it sit over night, about 14 hours before I pulled out the spacers. Solid. I taped to the edges and put down the last two patches. Once dried, will have to cut off the excess, dremel it to the edge, sand it clean, and coat the interior with Plasti-dip. 

 

SGjA1kWl.jpg

 

And then comes bondo. Yay... bondo... and sanding. and filler primer. and sanding. then wet sanding. then washing. then clear coating. then chrome.

If keep saying the steps enough times, it'll just happen on its own. 

 

The center glass went down on thigh two, following the same set of instructions: 

 

SRa0G27l.jpg

 

Just needs to dry, then I can glass to the edge! and then comes bondo... and sanding. and filler primer. and sanding. then... you know the rest. 

Edited by Sea_Marshall

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I started scratching the moment I saw the image of the glass fibers lol.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Just jumping in to say that your posts have been super inspirational! I have a big box of Phasma from KB sitting in my living room, no idea where to start! I'm enjoying seeing all the trial/error so I don't have the same issues ;)

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3 hours ago, indiechixor said:

Just jumping in to say that your posts have been super inspirational! I have a big box of Phasma from KB sitting in my living room, no idea where to start! I'm enjoying seeing all the trial/error so I don't have the same issues ;)

Thank you for the kind words! I've been going pretty strong following a 5 month hiatus. Great to hear you're starting your journey! It is a bit overwhelming, I agree. WIPs help keep me on target and documenting my errors for others to see is part of the learning experience.

 

 

 

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Had a solid session today and made some great progress on a few things: 

 

My wife carried on with cape progress and I sanded until I developed a blister and filed my nails to the skin lol

 

CxtFX1ll.jpg

 

I removed the tape from the fiberglass resizing job and was pleasantly surprised. Not bad! I just took a dremel with cutting blade and sheered off the excess and sanded it down with some 80 grit. 

 

5LVujssl.jpg

 

I couldn't tell if I was dressed for the grocery store of for working fiberglass... small victory following a three day fiberglass job. This was a learning experience for sure. Confidence boost x100 

 

3Po64jBl.jpg

 

This is officially the largest bondo job I've done. I've only ever spot filled in the past, but this was a good learning experience as well. Bondo's got like... 5 minutes of work time once you add hardener? You can see the left thigh is super goopy where the right side is considerably better. I found that smaller batches of bondo application is preferable. I ended up wasting materials because it would harden on my plate. Pro tip for other first timers out there. 

 

Following the literal slap-dash application of bondo, I sprayed plasti-dip over the interior work and its as if the fix never happened. I made sure to layer the fiberglass to be close to the original thickness. Pleasantly surprised. You can kind of see where the checkered cut is. Not too shabby. 

 

UOVPBW9l.jpg

 

The whole time I was just hoping this thing would work out. No going back. Some 80 grit sand paper took the excess bondo off and a 220 grit smoothed out the rest of the thighs. In the end I sanded both thighs down to 220 because I had the clear coat already on these (before I decided to resize, which I'm SO glad I did despite dreading the work). Then a fresh coat of filler primer went down and is drying over night. 1k and 2k wet sand tomorrow. (disregard the splotchy paint job. it's getting cleaned up in the next step)

 

cxY2mI6l.jpg

mbXczGLl.jpg

 

I superglued the abdomen boxes down a while back, but I found that stretching the corset around my body requires some flexing of the parts, so I worried the boxes would just pop off (because super glue is brittle) so I drilled screws into them and called it good. Unfortunately, I bought those screws for my belt boxes, so I'll have to get another set. Might plasti-dip the interior again to cover up the screws. 

 

6e3s16Tl.jpg

 

Yay, and now, cape progress! Pockets and straps cut to size. My Mrs has made some notes on her cape build (her first one) and I will add those notes to this WIP once she's done. We're using the TLJ measurements (since TFA does not mention sizes, only location) and you can see those noted on the corresponding item. 

 

PmTXHDDl.jpg

NuSIXI2l.jpg

 

And then my Mrs. mentions she can't make any additional changes to the cape until she can see me in it, with armor and boots on. So... I did my first partial suit up! This is the most I've been in costume since I've started this build. The chest was scheduled to be re-sanded, and it was done following this image. There was some misting going on from the clear coat, so it doesn't look as nice in this image. (but them shoulders! mmm hmm) Also a back image of Phasma from Disneyland for reference. 

 

Also realized the abdomen area needed to shift over a bit, so it's unaligned. Ah well. 

 

6s1GQNSl.jpg

m6k9bPAl.jpg

a83JJj7l.jpg

 

There's some work to be done on the cape. The middle panel is going to be reduced by a few inches on each side to bring the seams closer to my back. To note: The CRL (level 2) states "the cape is three panels with seams on either side of the back plate." Well... there's seams on either side of the back plate... but every reference photo I've seen is closer to the backplate than mine is, so we're going to bring it in a bit more so the pockets line up. There's also some length issues going on but we didn't hem anything until this test fit. We've found that the Geeky Pink measurements weren't quite what I needed, but it was a great help and landed us in the ball park. The cape was remeasured and will be tailored to hit the marks in another session. (More seamstress notes to come!)

 

Lastly, the red textile paint showed up. Huzzah. That's going to be a fun session when the time comes. 

 

Ej7IU1dl.jpg

 

I think tomorrow is just surface prep on helmet, chest, and thighs. Then Unicoat can go down. Again. If the gloss coat isn't beautiful, it'll be magnified by the chrome. Like many before me, I'm stumbling through this step and any failures results in a clean sanding to try again. Cheers to a new day. 

Edited by Sea_Marshall
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Nice fixt on those thighs, coming along nicely

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Nothing cool today. Just a bunch of failures across the whole range of things that can go wrong. 

 

I was amped to finish this final clear coat for chrome, but not today... 

 

The chest plate was first up and the clear coat looked good until I got a closer look... dried urethane debris was left in the mixing cup (despite my efforts to truly clean it) and so it propelled that into the finish, despite a pretty clear reflection :6:

 

I sanded the thighs to 220, didn't have any other grits on hand, so I skipped to 1k and 2k wet. The surface looked good and I put down a clear coat. To my dismay, the deeper scratches left from the 220 were vibrant in the finish, which means the chrome will amplify it further. :6:

 

I moved on to the helmet, did two passes on a side and the nozzle clogged with debris. This was a new spray rig, but that debris just ruined everything. I swapped out the nozzle, changed aerosol cans, and finished the coat. The finished coat looked awesome on the front, but there were no less than four runs on the back. I guess I passed over too close or too heavy. I'd go with too heavy as I was looking to get some good coverage, but alas, a runny finish... :6:

 

I still had like 2oz of clear coat left, so I decided to empty the left over into a red cup and clean out the sprayer with lacquer thinner. I figured I'd let the clear coat set, do some quick helmet touch up and finish it off. While I was doing so, I returned to my station to find the urethane melted through the cup bottom and poured onto my makeshift table (it's a $12 piece of plywood on saw horses). I didn't care about the table so much, rather the fact I had to make another clear coat batch. :6:

 

PzObnqfl.jpg

 

So I walked away from this utter failure of a session. 

 

The clear coat dried, I sanded everything down, and just put down a fresh coat of filler primer...

 

SfNc6NDl.jpg

 

Back to where I was two weekends ago... on the upside, of 54 items to clear coat, only 4 are being held up. 

 

What I've learned in just about every step of this build is to take it slow:

-- Sand in small batches and take your time to get them scratch free. 

-- Fiberglass/Mix Resin in small batches. 

-- Bondo and gap fill in small batches. 

-- Clear Coat in small batches -- I slammed out the entire kit and the last 6ish items failed. I reworked those items and did the work, while working on the next parts. The first items came out good, but the last items, chest, helmet, and thighs failed. The result of which caused me to repurchase materials because I had to use more than anticipated. 

 

I reworked the thighs because I was set back a week, but neglected to properly finish them. Which resulted in a fresh repaint, which I should have done anyway. I planned to even! I just didn't because I wanted to push through. Should have just taken it slow. And now I am. My momentum has hit a wall, but on the upside: only 4 parts to go. 

 

Bleh. Gonna finish the surface prep, again, during the week and hopefully, hopefully get a nice clear coat. I'm stuck in this surface-prep-pre-chrome-purgatory. And you know what's killer? Getting the chrome right and THEN nailing the top coat. A failed top coat on chrome means you sand it off, hit the chrome, and go back to the base and start over. Huzzah. 

 

I suppose now I can slow down since I'm in the final stages. Cape still needs to be modified. I can stand to lose a few more pounds. And I just need to clear coat, chrome, clear coat. Then I can start strapping. Once that final coat goes down, it's a sprint. It's more about finishing the project than getting to wear it at an event. I've got a four day weekend next week, so I'll be prepping to knock it out once and for all. 

Edited by Sea_Marshall

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Some days you wonder if it was worth while getting up. 

 

One thing is you never stop learning, good on you for keeping at it, don't lose faith you're on the tail end ;) 

 

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Sanding fixes and the new Uni-coat was a success! Annoying having to have made fixes, but third times a charm! 

 

NDO7k1sl.jpg

 

jCC7uYEl.jpg

 

CHROME TOMORROW. Huzzah. I hope it works out. 

 

This time I took extra precautions...  I ordered spare measuring cups, so I don't have to reuse them, rather, use and toss. No more debris!

I had extra aerosol Spra-Tool cans on hand this time. SO, when I did two large pieces and the can started to get cold, I just popped it off and loaded a fresh can at room temperature -- this ensured the pressure was consistent and I didn't need to wait for the can to cool. Additionally, I found that spraying off to the side to get a spray flow THEN moving it over the object kept the sputter to a minimum. This also applies to rattle cans to prevent sputter. Don't know why it took me this long to consciously make that connection when working on these last parts.  

 

So why did I use all these one use things? Because I don't own an air compressor, nor do I have the spray gun rig. I suppose if I were to open up shop and use that stuff on the regular, it would be worth the investment, but I managed to stagger through this. On the upside, now I've got a feel for the spra-tool and I hope to nail the top coat with whatever Uni-coat I have left. 

 

Tomorrow will see whether or not I did the base coat justice. On the upside, TFA gives me the option of weathering the surface and with that, I can hide the sins, or at least blend them to appear intentional. Chrome and top coat this weekend! Game on. 

 

ps: I've seen lots of folks use a black gloss/urethane base to help give the chrome a better mirror. I've also heard the color doesn't matter, so long as you've got the clear mirror base. I've put quite a bit of trust into Angel Gildings products and I guess we'll find out tomorrow.

 

 

 

 

Edited by Sea_Marshall

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Good luck with the chrome application, I know it can be very trying, holding my breath for you ;) 

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Don't hold your breath. :icon_eek:

 

This is considerably more challenging than anticipated. I need to sit down, take notes, and figure out what the heck I'm going to do. In each attempt, I cleaned the surface, rinsed with distilled water, used wetting agent followed by sensitizer. Let it sit for 30-45 seconds, then rinsed with distilled water. Next came the two part silvering.

 

Video: Spray Chrome

Video: Silver Remover

 

Exhibit 01: Failed 

SO what's going on here... color burns, liquid runs and a general mess. Removed all the silver with the Silver Remover, which is great stuff, and went for another shot. 

CJgrYEtl.jpg

 

 

 

Exhibit 02: Failed 

More liquid runs in the application... Even on the 2nd attempt, I was seeing a splatter issue in the application.

SXFTBFll.jpg

 

 

Exhibit 03: Failed

Take two, more splatter effect...something isn't making sense here. 

weDQcqdl.jpg

 

 

Exhibit 04: Shiny

I spent more time washing the piece, used a bunch of distilled water to thoroughly rinse the piece. I then sprayed a load of wetting agent on the surface. I then sprayed a load of sensitizer on the surface. When I mean a load, I mean more than I thought would be reasonable. I saturated the heck out of this thing in each step. Then I hit it with the spray chrome...

jbgjKHDl.jpg

 

Hey, not bad! 

 

Exhibit 05: "Show the me one who's safety deemed such destruction"

MTMa1brl.jpg

 

When they said this was a wet process, yes, yes it is. The amount of distilled water being used is ridiculous. Distilled water is used to mix every ingredient, rinse the part, and rinse again after the chrome is laid. Each time a failure occurs with the chrome, its back to washing it, then rinsing with distilled water. At my current rate of water usage, I might as well buy every gallon in stock at the grocery store. 

 

I've been at this chrome thing for... 4 hours? And I've got one piece to show for it, and it's not even that good. The edges could use some touch up. Woof. 

 

Not sure what to make of this so I walked away to collect my thoughts. 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by Sea_Marshall

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OUCH, I'd be walking away too (while throwing things around in the shed) 

 

Seems it's quite a bit of learning and trial/error :( 

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At least I've confirmed that the base color doesn't matter when using the chemical process so long as the gloss finish is good. That was an expensive test confirmation...

 

Good news and bad news. The good news is I now understand why things happened the way they did. The bad news is, I may have to repaint the whole kit.

 

Before I share my solution, which at this point I don't know if it will even work, I want to document what the heck went wrong and why I'm so annoyed by it. So here's my educational rant.

 

Here's the jist of the errors: 

RosrDwql.png

 

This was a STEEP learning curve because not only did I have to prep the entire object to be chromed, in this case, the whole costume, but I have to prep all the chemicals and apply them in order and I won't know if the sensitizer worked until I spray the chrome! You would have no idea if it worked until you've used all of your materials in the process. If it fails, which is a high probability in my experience, I have to remove the silver, and literally, LITERALLY, wash-rinse-repeat. 

 

I took a quick inventory of my supplies during clean up of this session and I give you this telling photo:

e8dTRPbl.png

 

The 2-part silvering solution retails at $160. That 1-inch of used solution equals $50. I failed on those test parts asking "why am I seeing these results?" 

 

From the Angel Gilding website: 

Question: Why does the water bead up?

Answer: Plastics, such as polyurethane (Clear Uni-Coat) repel water because, unlike glass, they have a very low level of surface energy. Water molecules on the surface are more attracted to each other than they are the plastic - they form beads and roll off. The answer is to increase the chemical attraction between the plastic and the water. 

 

Ok, so the the Uni-coat... used for the gloss coat... repels the freaking wetting agent, sensitizer, and silver because it's ONLY diluted by 95-99% distilled WATER. :6:

 

So the answer is to increase the chemical attraction between the plastic and water... Want to know how? "Flaming the Base Coat" by using a propane torch's flame to ionize the air around the surface so the surface energy increases. Yeah, sure, let me spend way too much for a propane torch, refill canisters, and a lot of room for error. 

 

Why didn't I know any of this? Why did I just suffer and fail all day to discover this? Because in the tutorials for the spray chrome, they're not toting a freaking blow torch. In the description of both the basic and master spray chrome kit, nowhere in the "You Supply" section does it say you need a blow torch. However, in the instruction manual of the steps to take, the step following the rinse but before the wetting agent says to Flame the Base Coat. Silly me. I thought that was optional way to speed up the silvering process. No. Re-freaking-quired, because the Uni-Coat repels the hydro-based chemical process. :6: I feel misguided by angel gilding. If I were chroming panes of glass, I'd be a pro. 

 

::Breath::

 

So here's what I'm going to do in my next session: 

 

I've confirmed that the surface color does not matter once the chrome goes down, so long as the base has a mirror like finish (gloss) 

I've confirmed that the Uni-Coat repels the water based application of... everything. 

I've concluded I need to increase the chemical attraction between the surface and the water -- and I'm not blow torching anything. 

 

So I'm curious -- Does gloss paint repel water the same way the polyurethane does?

If it doesn't repel water in the same way, then I'm going to lay down a gloss coat of PAINT (not Uni-Coat) and hopefully get a better chemical bond on the surface for the chrome. Because once the chrome goes down, it will mirror the gloss coat, and then the Uni-Coat can go over top of it all to seal the chrome. 

 

Since it's 85 degrees at 11:30pm, I decided to lay down a Black Semi-Gloss and a Red Gloss paint on either side of what was to become a Jawa Ion Blaster: 

Yr0cZyyl.jpg

 

This should be ready to wash, rinse, apply wetting agent, sensitizer, and chrome by the time I get back to the garage. Since color "shouldn't" matter, I'll see the difference between black and red, but also semi-gloss and gloss. Pretty sure I'll just want gloss. If this works, I think I can pull this off with what I have left without having to buy new materials, aside from the gloss black. If it fails, well, I may have to leave the chroming to the professionals. I'm not about to buy in for a second round of chemicals on a possibility of success, I need more assurance. I'd much rather put that on the pros. 

 

Cheers to a new day. 

 

End rant. 

Edited by Sea_Marshall

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Dude, I feel for you! Learning curves are a biatch, but thank you for documenting your progress. Watching with interest!

lou

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Well, I confirmed that the red color is covered by the chemical process, however, I didn't take much care in that piece and the bottom line is: it didn't work. 

 

So I made a proper test piece: The Heels

 

cs42WiRl.jpg

 

I'll say the black gloss had a brighter appearance, and I noticed the newly glossed heel, when washed, sheeted the water off better than the uni-coat. 

 

YnNO6Tol.jpg

 

In the end, however, this is beyond my skill, patience, and materials. This one is a job for the pros.

 

In my experience with this chroming process, from the very first attempt on my helmet to this chemical chrome kit, if I had stuck with the black gloss and spaztix, perhaps Alclad, I'd have made better progress and at a "reasonable" cost. In either case, $300-$500 minimum is my guestimate for the pay-to-play price of the finish. $1500-$2000 is the professional route. 

 

Ye-owtch. 

 

I hit up Chrome Factory LLC based in Las Vegas, NV. Referred by fellow Phasma's on the Facebook Group. I hear he's got dozens of Phasma's under his belt. This is the guy. On the upside, this quarantine lifestyle helped me purge my debt. Time to hop back in and stick a fork in this build.

 

 

 

Edited by Sea_Marshall

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Posting this to make me feel better. I found a glass cup that was going to be thrown out, so I chromed it to ensure that I'm taking the proper steps. I did the process so many times I just slammed through this in like 10 minutes. If my costume were made of glass, this would have been a cake walk. 

 

oNjJ74Sl.jpg

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We are always learning, it's just a pain when there is a large cost involved, well done with sticking with it

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"This is not how I thought this day was gonna' go" -- Han Solo

 

Learning indeed. 

 

fbaTj8fl.jpg

 

It is both a bummer and a relief to pack up the garage workspace I've been working in over the past 4 weeks. Phasma is packed and ready for a Las Vegas getaway. My Mrs has decided she'll make the drive. Sort of a 'ladies night' lol. She gets a few days to herself and I don't have to pay shipping. Deal.

 

I'll be signing off from my work till about late October when I can crack open a shiny box of goodies. Tomorrow will be a test fitting for the cape! I still have the notes coming up, and a WIP of the gel coat and stripe. Still plenty of fun to be had. 

 

The last thing I have to do is treat the waste water for disposal. Another hidden side quest of a chemical chrome process.

GTT3Q3ql.jpg

 

Would I recommend this method to anyone? No. Not at all. Not at this scale and not with the resources I have on hand. 

 

We all know that having the right tools to do the job will make or break a project. I've worked on a number of projects in the past and I've learned to get the tools to do the job right and not to cut corners. I felt I knocked out the prep and even took on resizing fiberglass, which was probably the highlight of this build for me. Well, working this kit was an undertaking and I really, really wanted to chrome it myself. Alas, I don't have the right tools to do this job and I'm not going to cut corners. I gave it a shot, encountered problems, found the answers, and drew my conclusions.

 

Cape, await Phasma's return, weather the kit, strap in, and suit up. Huzzah. 

 

ATucgmNl.jpg

 

PS: I'm not sending my blaster rifle to get professionally done. It's a 3D print that I'm not totally crazy about and I don't want to hassle the guy with having to deal with it. SO, I'll use this as an opportunity for a test: I'm going to black gloss the blaster, use what Spaztix I have remaining, and top coat it with Uni-Coat. This will do two things: Answer my question of protecting an aerosol spray chrome finish, and test the durability of a professional job compared to the wear and tear on a painted piece. 

Edited by Sea_Marshall
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I had about 1/3 left in my original can of Spaz-Stix so I black glossed my blaster: 

 

6Bwtbsfl.jpg

 

This can is 3.5 oz and is like $13 each. It was very shiny and chrome. 

 

P0x26mEl.jpg

 

So, that method is proven to work, as many have done before me. Also from what I've learned from those before me, is that aerosol paint, when coated with an aerosol clear coat, tends to turn the mirror to a dull gray. I knew this. Touching the mirror chrome finish easily scratches off the layer. Even when cured, it's pretty easy to chip, at least from what I found. The next test was to see if the uni-coat, when top coated over the mirror chrome, would kill the mirror. I also wanted to ensure if the coat did it's job, it wouldn't tint gold, so I added a bit of violet to counteract it. Note it reads "silver metal" has an optical property...etc. 

 

UdzCS0il.jpg

 

Ah well, just confirmed my suspicions. Can't clear coat aerosol paint. Is there even an answer for protecting a paint coat? Or just touch-ups whenever you want to suit up over the years?

 

E5mi6U6l.jpg

 

This is a before and after. Left is the clear coat, right is without.

 

I'll gloss black this again and hit it with a mirror finish, then just roll with the punches. 

 

 

Edited by Sea_Marshall

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Many aerosol paints can be clear coated, most of my armor and weapons are painted with acrylic aerosol paint and clear coated. That being said different chrome paint behaves differently depending on the clear used, I looked into gold paint once before, there are some clears that are used specifically for gold and chrome, I would check with the supplier of the chrome paint to see what they specify or recommend.

 

Some helpful videos, check out his channel as he has other videos on different makes of paint and clear he has tried

 

 

 

 

 

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qaKMOzLl.jpg

 

...and we're back from Phasma's Vegas Getaway with Chrome Factory. 

 

J0HpV9Xl.jpg

 

At this point and time, the costume was chromed about 5 days ago and has been curing for transportation. It was recommended not to mess with anything and allow the coat to cure for a full two weeks, so she'll sit back for another week or so before I get into strapping. Time to get into the blaster rifle and finishing the cape. 

 

This procedure was a chemical chroming process, same as I had set out to do myself, except a blow torch and 20 years of experience went into the effort, heh. The finish is fantastic and my feelings on the work is "best that could have been expected". It's not perfect and based on my personal experience, is forgivable considering the undertaking required to pull it off at this level. There are tell-tale signs of chemical burn, debris, unfinished edges, and runs around the armor that I faced myself and will need to touch up some choice areas. I will spend some time weathering and fixing some flaws and use that exp. as basic training for upkeep and maintenance. These critiques are few in comparison to the entirety of the costume. At 3 inches, I can see the flaws. At 3 feet, not so much. A little touch up and light weathering will go a long way and it's going to knock the socks off of spectators for sure. 

 

I'm still convinced of weathering the costume and once I can give it more attention after its cured, will see what options I have. Enjoy the shiny box opening for QC and inventory. Great to have everything back in hand. 

 

UYA2MRNl.jpg

 

LJfUec2l.jpg

 

e1FoRa3l.jpg

 

MvDoioVl.jpg

 

dDrN8Owl.jpg

 

AmQ3y9zl.jpg

 

 

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WOW just WOW, very very shinny 

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Heyo. Phasma is ready to be handled! I still wear gloves if I can, but fingerprints, smudges, and eventual wear and tear is going to happen. I've already dropped two pieces on a concrete floor today. That was great... nicked a corner of a belt box, but the shin took it like a champ. Whew. I should work over a carpet, heh. There's lots of stuff I need to get working on and additional research here on the forums to figure out how to strap this thing to my body. I've got some ideas to pencil out. 

 

Phasma Leg Day

SDObAcgl.jpg

 

I started on the boots, found that the left foot is reallllly snug and I may want to replace the toe armor at some point to relieve the pressure on my foot. That sucks, but it'll do for now. Did a dry fit of the shins and shin/boot armor and it appears to be a good fit, but didn't take any photos while they were on.

 

w1F0fQFl.jpg

 

So this kills me a little... check out this heel: 

QrZfWrdl.jpg

 

It's got like a quarter inch or more on either side and these boots are tight on me. I can't imagine filling that heel. The toe armor itself is already biting my foot, even if I went to my proper size, I'd imagine it would be harder. I may just have to order another set of boot plates, but, we'll go with what I have for the time being. On the upside, the shin/boot armor part goes over top of the heel and neatly hides the gaps. Maybe I can fill it out if necessary. Walking seemed to be okay. 

 

On the topic of leg day, I took a close look at the thighs. Remember all that reshaping, cutting, fiberglass, etc? Well, my first thigh didn't look so good because I can see the pattern (this is my bad for not filling it correctly) but the other was good to go. In either case, this will be behind the cape, so it's more of a "ah, so that's what happens."

 

Z7kf75Il.jpg

 

I revisited the F11-D and put on another mirror coat. Not bad, not nearly as reflective, but should meet the color reqs. I found a guy online who sells resin casts of this rifle, so I may pick one up down the line as an upgrade. The parts are even hollowed out for LEDs. I picked up the FISD 3D files, so I may give it another go, but at this point, I am so sick of sanding and filler primer that I just want to quit 3D printing altogether. 

 

41547Prl.jpg

 

Anyway - I'm going to get to work on the belt. I plan to screw the belt boxes to the rubber belt. I attached the covers for the cloth belt pouches, easy peasy, and they hide the buckle well. Once I have the spacing worked out, I'll drill in the boxes and sort out some velcro for the cod and posterior. Following that, drop down straps for the thighs. 

 

Whew, lots of work to do and I don't have what I need right now to make any more advancements. Now I'll be focused on one part at a time. Getting there! Ugh, and I still need to dial in the cape. 

 

Then weather everything. 

 

I tested the glue and black paint thing I want to do for the foggy armor look. Success. Comes off with water. Pretty sweet way to weather and that should disguise most of the imperfections and inevitable scuffs and scratches. On the upside, once the glue goes down, handling the surface becomes much easier and sort of gives it a second skin. I have to schedule a call with Chrome Factory for care and feeding of the armor and will share the knowledge I gain once I apply their techniques. 

 

More to come. 

 

 

Edited by Sea_Marshall

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