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Progressbarloading - My First Armor Build (Anovos ANH TK Stunt)

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Hi everyone,

 

Finally getting to my 4 yr old Anovos kit as my first armor build. Shooting for Centurion from the start on the armor side, interested in any and all feedback. Feel like I'm just a bit too big for this armor, unfortunately, so this will also likely be a thread for questions on shimming.

 

Some starter info:

  • Height - 5'8"
  • Current weight - 185 lb
  • Armor - Anovos
  • Belt - TKittell
  • Boots - Imperialboots
  • Neckseal - Darman (Currently on order)
  • Strapping - TheRascalKing 
  • Undersuit - Under Armor

 

 

Got started at a few armor parties, so my startup pictures will be limited (no BBB, sorry)

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Looking forward to the progress, there's some great build threads to follow, you may want to start with Tony's  https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/35086-uswraths-anovos-tk-build-stunt/

 

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Thanks, I probably should have mentioned that I'm on the Anovos kit facebook group and have been rereading the ukswraths doc for the last month or two :duim:. Also just discovered TK1636's videos and trying to work through those as well.

 

Some general notes now that I'm taking the plunge

  • E6000 really does seem as easy as everyone gives it credit for, what a godsend
    • Any overglue I've just been rubbing off (reshaped some trimmed off scrap from a forearm trim as a scraper for the beads that ooze out of cover strips as well
  • I've taken to running complex cuts as a 3-step process
    • 1. score-and-snap all the longer straighter sections
    • 2. use lexan scissors to finish stubborn curves
    • 3. come back with a box cutter to shave off any margins too thin to safely scissor

Current progress / pics

  • See the helmet - may as well know whether or not I need to start tweaking the paint job. I know I'll need to get around to changing out the mic tips or mic tip mesh before EIB
  • mrxiqMd.jpg
  • kOcPvXW.jpg
  • G2AOLsH.jpg
  • All pieces minimum trimmed to Anovos default (minimal pics as noted earlier)
  • Centurion hardware kit on order
  • Also ordered https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0108KNH24/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 in case I need to use these instead of other snaps (see question below)
  • Already hating trying to convert the belt - trying not to make too many pry-marks on the rivet covers
  • Looks like I'll need to shim my ab-kidney connection - If I sit my left side flush, then I have some space on the right
    • OkNMGg2.jpg
    • kOJcRxy.jpg

Fully Glued:

  • Left forearm
    • snEB5Pt.jpg
  • Left Bicep

Glue In Progress 

  • Right Bicep

Fit Trimming

  • Thighs (see below)
  • Right Forearm (see below)
  • Kidney plate
    • Removed return edges at ab connections (above the notch) for shim test fit
    • Shims rough cut
    • Inner support strips cut
  • Conversion to Kittel belt

A few questions:

  1. I'm noticing some Anovos pieces are assymetrical based on their default trimlines, ukswrath mentioned to be trimming more or less for fitment, but is the Anovos default (assuming I can fit into it) an acceptable amount of assymetrical?
  • Forearms
    • Left forearm is ~11.5" around at the wrist and ~14" at the elbow
    • Right forearm is ~12" around at the wrist and ~15" at the elbow
    • Both fit onto me - should I be cutting the right forearm down on both pieces before cover strips to get a closer diameter match?
  • See also the thigh trimming
    • Left thigh is ~ " around at the knee and ~ " at the hip
    • Right thigh is ~ " around at the knee and ~ " at the hip
    • Right thigh feels tighter (it's also more oval/less round), but seems to fit with some pulling (friction fit in the pic below). It's getting tight at the knee, so I figure hollowing out that return edge I should be fine.
  1. I don't think I fit for Centurion without some kidney shimming, is my plan correct?
  2. Cover Strip length on the thighs? The inner and outer knee ridges don't meet at the same height - know it will mostly be covered by sniper plate but figured I'd sketch where I plan to cover strip:
    0lo6mzr.jpg
    1. Followup - is it a centurion requirement to keep the thigh rear cover strips the same ~20mm width as the front? I know the priority is having the front correct, but it's not clear to me if the rear can just be wider to not need to thigh-shim. Asking because I think if I remove the thigh return edges in the knee I can wear both as-is, but want to know just-in-case.
  3. Ordered the kittel belt prematurely- with the shims as currently cut and test-fit-with-painters-tape there's about 10-15mm of velcro showing if I don't cinch down the belt (which looks like it will cause some ab/shim overlap, ok?
    1. Is covering with the thermal detonator sufficient?
    2. Is there a specific length requirement (or even a general preference) now for the TD? UKswrath mentioned wanting his shorter but it seemed like it didn't make a difference in the end, so maybe I'll just be able to hide the velcro that way?
    3. Alternatively, I can take down the shims just a tad (currently have 3.75" of extra shim, when I could probably get away with 3" per my pre-shim draft picture) so the belt can make it around
  4. The ukswrath post made a point of replacing the line 24 snaps with poppers. Most of the googling I've done implies snaps and poppers are the same? What gives? Anything to do with https://www.buttoncare.com/metal-snaps.html ?
 
TL;DR - You all have been amazing and there's a lot on the forums! The questions, however, continue...

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:popcorn: Looking good Ryan

 

1A. Requirement no, highly recommended yes.

4A. Some overlap on the right side is acceptable. Yes the TD should cover most (not all Velcro exposed), again not a requirement. TD length is 7 1/4"-7 1/2".

5A. Poppers are technically snaps but the designed differently than what you see most of around these parts. Poppers are not required, I only used them because it's screen accurate. What you use has no bearing on approvals.

 

Keep up the great work :jc_doublethumbup:

Edited by ukswrath

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Thanks Tony - realized I also didn't end up inputting my measurements for 1B: 

  • Left thigh is ~20" around at the knee and ~26 " at the hip
  • Right thigh is ~19.5" around at the knee and ~25" at the hip
  • Right thigh feels tighter (it's also more oval/less round), but seems to fit with some pulling (friction fit in the pic below). It's getting tight at the knee, so I figure hollowing out that return edge I should be fine.
  • I could either trim the left thigh a bit more (evenly split from the back of both pieces?), or leave as is - seems like a more minor adjustment)

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Anovos helmets generally have a little too much paint around the teeth and some is seen on the gums, you may want to remove any excess ;) 

 

Keep up the good work.

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I am in the same boat brother. 4 years later and I am just now starting to piece together all of the pieces AND information required for my Anovos build. Thank god for this great community, and members such as Ukswrath. If not for them, my OCD would consume me and I would never start. Looks like you are off to a good start!

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On ‎8‎/‎6‎/‎2019 at 9:12 AM, SpeedRacerx said:

I am in the same boat brother. 4 years later and I am just now starting to piece together all of the pieces AND information required for my Anovos build. Thank god for this great community, and members such as Ukswrath. If not for them, my OCD would consume me and I would never start. Looks like you are off to a good start!

Thanks for the Kudos brother. Like you I learned from those who came before me. This is a great community with many talented members. Keep up the great work

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Updates! After talking with @kman at an armor party, it was suggested that I skip the kidney shimming since I should be in a good spot to fit without. That said, started laying out the ab/kidney and cod rivets and wanted to post before drilling anything:

 

Ja3fK9b.jpg

 

aztNCUR.jpg

 

chvnnth.jpg

 

MGhAypl.jpg

 

SeRdcqY.jpg

 

1KLv1oa.jpg

 

mQLtev4.jpg

 

5lBbyhP.jpg?1

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Looking good. 

 

gallery_12157_16_12210.jpg

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Labor Day Weekend Updates:
 

Hope everyone else had a good holiday - feel like I made some major progress this weekend. Highlights (major questions in RED:

  • Cleaned up the rivet covers from the belt! Major stress off my back!
    LQMeu1P.jpg
    • Major thanks to @kman for clarifying(/modifying?) the method at my last armor party:
      1. Use emery discs on the dremel to cut into the belt from behind  to loosen dental cement
      2. Pry the rivet covers off
      3. Continue using emery discs on the dremel to cut into the remaining rivet material - what I found was rather than actually trying to cut off underneath (which terrified me given the disc sizes I had on hand), trying to cut directly into the rivets heated them enough to warm and loosen the dental cement
        x2KasLV.jpg
      4. Pry the warm rivets out with a screwdriver
      5. Use a ball bur in the dremel to cut/grind out the excess dental cement
        fk3MvR6.jpg
    • I plan on gluing in Chicago screws with E6000 to the rivet covers instead of rivets this time to make the belt more maintainable
    • Still need to
      1. Patch the belt itself with spare material
      2. Transfer the drop boxes (Do I need to actually rivet them, or just move the loops and E6000 them behind the belt in the right spots so the outer box edges match the ends of the belt?)
      3. Add the holster to the belt
      4. Add snaps to the belt and ab
  • Speaking of Snaps,
    • Got a box of these online after trying to find the correct poppers: do these look acceptable? They don't look quite like the Anovos ones but I'm not sure if that's a good thing
      ZrTcDFK.jpg
      eZ2oG06.jpg
    • Planning for 
      • Ab/belt
      • Ab internal snap (This is the "Han" snap?)
      • Posterior internal + matching codpiece elastic
  • Drilled rivet holes to 1/8" for split rivets from the Centurion Kit
  • Assembled the Thermal Detonator to 192mm
    • Meant to hot water bath the caps and grind down the pipe ends a bit more, but at the last test fit they wouldn't come off, so there we are.
      ZclR030.jpg
    • (screws from the same Centurion kit still need paint)
      erzQgf1.jpg
  • Trimmed down the right forearm and both thighs to matching circumference
    • (well the thighs might still be ~0.4" different circumference at top and bottom, but gluing isn't done and I saw some change on right thigh from fitment to glue, so I'm moving on for the time being)
    • Forearms and biceps complete pending gluing strapping, thighs in progress
    • Thigh fronts complete - going for round 1 and round 2 of gluing the R and L rears, respectively (more magnets clamps and tape at the ready - will probably try to find a book to weigh it down to compress it to round during gluing as well
      0xmwnvq.jpg
    • Ended up using extra cover strip material for a 10mm strip to check/mark the right return edge on each front piece for trimming
    • Using the trick of doing light dremel sanding on the cover strips and receiving pieces for better adhesion per @TheRascalKing
      RYJs95r.jpg
  • Got extra cover strip material from trooperbay and cut internal cover strips for both shins (now fully trimmed on the front)
    • Gluing in progress
    • Planning on velcro (regular or industrial strength white?)

Moving forward focusing on the following to be ready for basic approval photos:

  • Completing the legs
  • Finishing the belt
  • Prepping handpieces/gloves
  • Gluing in strapping

Centurion mods I know to keep working on after first photos:

  • Cleaning vocoder and frown paint
  • Changing my hovi mesh
  • [noticed none of you commented on my ear screws so I'm assuming they're right]
  • Additional wrist return edge sanding
  • Centurion gloves
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12 hours ago, progressbarloading said:

Transfer the drop boxes (Do I need to actually rivet them, or just move the loops and E6000 them behind the belt in the right spots so the outer box edges match the ends of the belt?)

Hi, Ryan, the CRL doesn't mention any rivet for the drop boxes.

 

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12 hours ago, progressbarloading said:

Planning on velcro (regular or industrial strength white?)

For me, Industrial strength is preferable.  

 

Keep on doing agreat job. :jc_doublethumbup: cheers.

 

 

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16 hours ago, progressbarloading said:

I plan on gluing in Chicago screws with E6000 to the rivet covers instead of rivets this time to make the belt more maintainable - Personally, I use Line 24 snaps mounted under the belt covers... makes the plastic ammo belt removable from the canvas - makes storage easier since you want to roll, not fold the belt, which could crack the reinforcing strip of plastic inside.

  • Still need to
    • Patch the belt itself with spare material - Don't bother patching - it isn't Centurion approvable any more. Grab a new, reinforced belt from ImperialIssue.com
    • Transfer the drop boxes (Do I need to actually rivet them, or just move the loops and E6000 them behind the belt in the right spots so the outer box edges match the ends of the belt?) - Attach them however you want, just make sure they're secure since they tend to snag on things on occasion. I slowly and carefully pulled my straps out from inside and riveted them to the back at the correct height personally. 
      • Got a box of these online after trying to find the correct poppers: do these look acceptable? They don't look quite like the Anovos ones but I'm not sure if that's a good thing - They look good. Line 24 is probably stronger, though these are probably more accurate (though not visible at all).
        • Ab internal snap (This is the "Han" snap?) - The one located randomly on the top right corner of the ab, facing inward, yes.
  • Meant to hot water bath the caps and grind down the pipe ends a bit more, but at the last test fit they wouldn't come off, so there we are. - I left mine snug, but removable and I'll hide my crate/house key and a couple packets of Advil in there while trooping haha LABEL your TD tho! They're the most commonly lost piece of the costume 100%. If someone finds yours, you want to make sure it has a chance of coming home to you. I labeled mine discreetly on the outside where it is hidden when worn, and on the inside, just in case. I would also recommend sticking some fuzzy velcro on the metal tabs, where it will attach to your belt, where it touches your armor. If not, this will slowly rub and scratch your armor. Same with any hardware on the backside of your belt (like the Chicago screws that attach your holster) - metal rubbing on armor is never good!
    • Thigh fronts complete - going for round 1 and round 2 of gluing the R and L rears, respectively (more magnets clamps and tape at the ready - will probably try to find a book to weigh it down to compress it to round during gluing as well - Hella neodymium magnets - one every 1.5" with alternating polarity if you can manage. Painters tape also helps hold it to shape while gluing.
      Planning on velcro (regular or industrial strength white?) - I would not recommend industrial strength velcro for the backs of your shins. You will be doing and undoing this velcro frequently to take it on and off. The industrial stuff is TOO sticky and may put extra stress on the armor. The regular 1" white velcro works fine. I also put a patch of velcro on the tongue of my boot at the top, and a corresponding one on the inside of the front, lower shin - this helps keep the shin armor from riding up, or rotating when you wear it.
    • [noticed none of you commented on my ear screws so I'm assuming they're right] - If they're the stock Anovos button-head ones, they need to be switched out to countersunk.

Hope some of this helps! :) 

Edited by TheRascalKing

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I've only removed my ammo pack from my belt once in the 3+ years I've had it (which was quite simple, with the Chicago screws), so I personally recommend the Chicago screws over the snaps that Justin is recommending, but either will do the job.  Go whichever way you prefer.  My belt hasn't been damaged, so I think you're fine as long as you're not trying to press sharp folds.

 

I used a dab of e6000 on the back to hold the drop boxes in place, although I'll be changing that method to Velcro, since I need them to be removable for some alternate armor configurations. (HWT)  There's no need for rivets.  Use whatever method you want to attach the elastic to the boxes.

 

The popper snaps are NOT what you want for the one visible snap that gets mounted into the corner of the ab plate.  You need the ones Anovos supplied, or Line 24 snaps.  Popper snaps don't have the right base.  I'm referring to the upper snap, here:

 

20160303173808-acac6328-me.jpg

 

These same snap types are also used for the crotch strap snaps in the butt plate, NOT the popper snaps (and not the front cod, that's just a smooth dome rivet).  Those are good for internal strapping connections (shoulder straps in particular) and for the belt connection.

 

Butt plate:

20160319234936-3d1f7943-me.jpg

 

Otherwise, I agree with Justin's advice, above.

Edited by kman
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I use snaps to secure my plastic section to the belt, easy to swap out when I convert to my Hero having different soft belts ;) 

 

 

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And just to make sure we're all using the same terminology:

 

These are what we (at FISD) commonly refer to as "popper snaps":  (the ones you had pictured in your post, above)

 

Druckknopf.jpg

 

These are the style of snaps commonly referred to as "Line 24 snaps":  ("Line 24" is technically Tandy's brand name / size designation for this style of snap, but it has become fairly ubiquitous and can be found referring to snaps of the same size and variety that were NOT made by Tandy, too.  Anovos supplies "Line 24-style snaps" with their kits.)

 

Rivet_snap_parts.jpg

 

(Photos are not meant to be precise, and are not the right finish, etc., they were just handy on Wikipedia's page and show the two main variations nicely)

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Excellent clarification by Kalani - so we're on the same page, I was saying that the POPPER snaps are fine (and I believe more "accurate") to attach the canvas belt to the ab panel. But that's IT. All of the visible snaps are "Line 24" (at the posterior tab and Han snap on the ab). Tandy are good quality, but I actually prefer the cheaper ones that aren't branded on the snap for my visible snaps

 

And as for the canvas belt... depends on the size of your crate and how you store it! My car, and therefor crate, are tiny, so I like to be able to remove the plastic ammo belt from the canvas and roll it up to minimize its footprint. Like Kalani said, do not press sharp folds into it - it can and will crack the plastic insert, which was my concern.

Edited by TheRascalKing
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Thanks all, the snap advice is super helpful! :duim: 

 

This finally takes the "snaps vs poppers" question I started with back in July and lays it to rest:

  • Poppers are more accurate for ab/ammo belt connections
  • Line 24-style snaps are required for the Han snap and the butt plate cod snaps
    • Based on the Tandy vs unbranded (and therefore unlabeled)  discussion above, as long as they're placed correctly does it make a difference for Centurion if I use Anovos supplied? None are significantly load-bearing as far as I can tell, so not sure what the benefit of other snaps are unless it's a sizing thing
    • That said, I don't think the Anovos kit came with tools to set the snaps, so do I need something specific or is it possible to jury-rig with the setting punches for the poppers?
Quote
  • Patch the belt itself with spare material - Don't bother patching - it isn't Centurion approvable any more. Grab a new, reinforced belt from ImperialIssue.com

To clarify here - I was referring to the ABS portion of the belt - there's some larger holes behind where the [rivet] covers were, so I was going to patch from the back with spare ABS to give the covers something to hold onto.

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2 hours ago, progressbarloading said:

Thanks all, the snap advice is super helpful! :duim: 

 

This finally takes the "snaps vs poppers" question I started with back in July and lays it to rest:

  • Poppers are more accurate for ab/ammo belt connections
  • Line 24-style snaps are required for the Han snap and the butt plate cod snaps
    • Based on the Tandy vs unbranded (and therefore unlabeled)  discussion above, as long as they're placed correctly does it make a difference for Centurion if I use Anovos supplied? None are significantly load-bearing as far as I can tell, so not sure what the benefit of other snaps are unless it's a sizing thing
    • That said, I don't think the Anovos kit came with tools to set the snaps, so do I need something specific or is it possible to jury-rig with the setting punches for the poppers?

To clarify here - I was referring to the ABS portion of the belt - there's some larger holes behind where the [rivet] covers were, so I was going to patch from the back with spare ABS to give the covers something to hold onto.

Tandy's snaps didn't used to be branded.  That actually changed about 2 years ago.  Before that, they were plain.

 

Old vs new:

 

20160324200523-0982cc1e-me.jpg

 

I'd feel fine using the Anovos snaps for these purposes.  If any of them fails, replace it in the future, no big deal.

 

Labeled vs. unlabeled makes no difference even for Centurion purposes.  If someone's face is close enough to the Han snap (let alone the crotch strap LOL) to make out the lettering, we have other issues. ;)

 

You need a set of snap setting tools to install snaps.  They're simple and inexpensive.  You can buy them from Tandy or random Chinese ones online elsewhere.  Personally, I bought a kit from Tandy that included a number of snaps and the setting tools.  I paid less at the time (several years ago now) than the $15 they're asking now: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003W0IIJK/

 

I patched the back of my belt, after cutting out the Anovos buttton covers.  Spare plastic works perfectly.  (doesn't even have to match exactly since you can't see it from the front anyway)

20160319234922-fe4c1f51-me.jpg

 

Edited by kman
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Latest Weekend Update:

 

Another full weekend of gluing etc, now with a lot of pictures. Updates broken out by part below, questions IN RED to stay consistent.

 

  • Right Thigh
    • New clamping procedure
      • Magnets, Spring Clamps, Deep-throat-C-clamps (harbor freight) with rubber safety shoes. Really not sure what more I can do here
      • YQqInRp.jpg
      • Still isn't perfect, but is holding as an integral piece
      • Pulling off the tape it still springs right back (also pulled it based on wanting to check progress (it did look so promising) early at 20 hours instead of 24)
        • 2RzeJTP.jpg
        • 7Ji7AFh.jpg
      • May try a followup glue job later on top of the existing to clamp some more, maybe with some harder short boards or something to distribute compression, but hopefully this can continue on for basic at least
    • Ammo Pack - good to mount?
      • Tried to set equidistant along two thigh side ridges
        • kM25ykn.jpg
        • B5b4avJ.jpg
      • Is that enough distance? Currently taut along front
      • Is the belt angle correct, or too high?
        • tJhaYTT.jpg
        • e9XbSc8.jpg
        • jM5FXpZ.jpg
      • Plan on setting with cap rivets
  • Left Shin
    • Finished front and rear outer cover strips
      • Inner cover strips make it feel strong and easy
      • xu5rDMK.jpg
      • fQCDqfS.jpg
    • See sniper knee - good to mount?
      • T24XC5M.jpg
      • How much return edge do I need?
        • Looks like it's already starting to crack
        • FxLyM9Q.jpg
      • Is it just the top edge that needs to look like it aligns?
        • Outer edge looks ok to me
          • qSlN8er.jpg
        • See the Inner edge which is aligned, but the rest of the bottom of the knee plate pictured actually overshoots the ridge
          • dxm1m9Y.jpg
          • VWCJA9g.jpg
          • T24XC5M.jpg
  • Ab
    • Rivets are set (kidney too)
      • Bqi57wR.jpg
    • Glued webbing snaps in place
      • Had to go over the rivets
      • 9aMXlwG.jpg
      • Realized I was overthinking landing the first set, but will be gluing on the matching line on the kidneys carefully to ensure as tight as possible butt connection without overlap
        • uYrQZfe.jpg
        • YYFnfeL.jpg
    • Han Snap
      • Ended up using Tandy Line 24
        • Note(, and I promise I'll drop this now haha ) - the ukswrath build thread still shows poppers going in there for Centurion - hence the confusion. CRL does not specify either.
        • seMnpmD.jpg
        • wtVHhrO.jpg
        • q2cHvxp.jpg
      • Plan on incorporating that into the existing strapping (cutting down the webbing I have and using as top snap
        • jM5FXpZ.jpg
    • Painted ab buttons
      • Do I need to take down more return edge?
        • 3sIwjiF.jpg
        • 1CwXTxt.jpg
      • Currently on Anovos cut lines and looks raised as shown on the ab piece
        • SSNLSzX.jpg
  • Arm strapping
    • Currently running on inside of elbows
      • Cut some scrap pieces to get as close to snaps as possible to apply E6000 pressure to the webbing (with the thigh in mind felt like overkill was appropriate)
      • v1- EAhOHDr.jpg
      • v2- lMcUijA.jpg
    • Tried following Ukswraths suggested ~4" distance between inner bicep and inner elbow, but it feels a bit long. Will show photos shortly
    • Incidentally - suggestions for what foam to buy as helmet/arm liner?
  • Belt
    • Cut replacement abs for backing, still need to glue and drill
      • bEgFsh3.jpg
    • Do I glue the chicago screw backs to this backing, or to the 3 square covers?
  • Posterior
    • Snaps are set
      • Ukswrath thread was designed for smaller poppers, so used his initial 5/8" measurement for the closer snap and noticed the second wouldn't fit as shown
        • 5jvEJNm.jpg
        • SB071L0.jpg
      • Changed it by eyeballing room for the next nearest one to be close on that centerline
        • YHSIYvH.jpg
        • * Yes the snaps were finally set both facing inward for the cod strap - had them pictured this way for layout marking
  • Next up - feels like we're getting close
    • Mounting sniper plate and thigh ammo pack pending someone here saying it's safe to cut return edges and drill the rivet holes
    • Final glue on left thigh/right shin
    • Continuing work on the belt
    • Continued strapping work, particularly in the chest, left arm, and kidney

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3 hours ago, progressbarloading said:

Latest Weekend Update:

 

Another full weekend of gluing etc, now with a lot of pictures. Updates broken out by part below, questions IN RED to stay consistent. - KMAN'S COMMENTS IN CYAN FOR CONTRAST

 

  • Right Thigh
    • New clamping procedure - Looks good.  Important safety tip: Don't check on it!  Leave it untouched for at LEAST 24 hours, and considering more like 48 hours for the hard things, like thighs.  Other pieces are more forgiving.
      • Magnets, Spring Clamps, Deep-throat-C-clamps (harbor freight) with rubber safety shoes. Really not sure what more I can do here
      • YQqInRp.jpg
      • Still isn't perfect, but is holding as an integral piece
      • Pulling off the tape it still springs right back (also pulled it based on wanting to check progress (it did look so promising) early at 20 hours instead of 24)
        • 2RzeJTP.jpg
        • 7Ji7AFh.jpg
      • May try a followup glue job later on top of the existing to clamp some more, maybe with some harder short boards or something to distribute compression, but hopefully this can continue on for basic at least - It'll do fine as is, but I'd considering removing the cover and re-doing it.  Use a LOT more glue.  It's easy to clean up excess, but having not enough is bad.  And see comment above re not touching it for 48 hours.
    • Ammo Pack - good to mount?
      • Tried to set equidistant along two thigh side ridges - see comment below
        • kM25ykn.jpg
        • B5b4avJ.jpg
      • Is that enough distance? Currently taut along front - see comment below
      • Is the belt angle correct, or too high?- Angle is ok, although I prefer it lower.  Looks "buck-toothed" to me when it's high like that.  Originals were all over the place, though, so either is acceptable.
        • tJhaYTT.jpg
        • e9XbSc8.jpg
        • jM5FXpZ.jpg
        • That's perfectly accurate, if you like it.  My OCD couldn't handle the "slightly off" look, so I centered the front "nub" in line with the cover strip.  I like the result much better.  Results in slightly shifted ends, which is fine.  Personal preference is ok here.  Again, the originals varied a lot so accuracy here is a matter of opinion.  So if you like what you have, it's perfectly fine.  Photo of mine below.
      • Plan on setting with cap rivets
  • Left Shin
    • Finished front and rear outer cover strips
      • Inner cover strips make it feel strong and easy
      • xu5rDMK.jpg
      • fQCDqfS.jpg
    • See sniper knee - good to mount?
      • T24XC5M.jpg
      • How much return edge do I need? - Keep ALL the return edge on top.  Remove ALL of the return edge along the bottom edge, or it'll crack, as you're already seeing.  Just flat plastic.  I'll add a photo below.
        • Looks like it's already starting to crack
        • FxLyM9Q.jpg
      • Is it just the top edge that needs to look like it aligns? - Alight the top edge, as you have in the photo below.
        • Outer edge looks ok to me
          • qSlN8er.jpg
        • See the Inner edge which is aligned, but the rest of the bottom of the knee plate pictured actually overshoots the ridge - The inner edge on the Anovos kits is too long.  Just trim the excess off so it matches the other side, ending just before the angled part of the ridge.
          • dxm1m9Y.jpg
          • VWCJA9g.jpg
          • T24XC5M.jpg
  • Ab
    • Rivets are set (kidney too)
      • Bqi57wR.jpg
    • Glued webbing snaps in place
      • Had to go over the rivets
      • 9aMXlwG.jpg
      • Realized I was overthinking landing the first set, but will be gluing on the matching line on the kidneys carefully to ensure as tight as possible butt connection without overlap
        • uYrQZfe.jpg
        • YYFnfeL.jpg
        • I'd mash those rivets a little more flat on the inside.  It'll make everything lay much flatter when you glue it in.  Be sure to use the curved riveting tool so you don't mash the outside parts flat.
    • Han Snap
      • Ended up using Tandy Line 24
        • Note(, and I promise I'll drop this now haha ) - the ukswrath build thread still shows poppers going in there for Centurion - hence the confusion. CRL does not specify either.
        • seMnpmD.jpg
        • wtVHhrO.jpg
        • q2cHvxp.jpg
      • Plan on incorporating that into the existing strapping (cutting down the webbing I have and using as top snap
        • jM5FXpZ.jpg
    • Painted ab buttons
      • Do I need to take down more return edge?- Yes.  Remove ALL the return edge so it's like two flat cards.  Just trim the return edge part that exists now... don't take it all the way to the inner raised part (on the larger piece).  I'll add a photo below.
        • 3sIwjiF.jpg
        • 1CwXTxt.jpg
      • Currently on Anovos cut lines and looks raised as shown on the ab piece
        • SSNLSzX.jpg
  • Arm strapping
    • Currently running on inside of elbows
      • Cut some scrap pieces to get as close to snaps as possible to apply E6000 pressure to the webbing (with the thigh in mind felt like overkill was appropriate)
      • v1- EAhOHDr.jpg
      • v2- lMcUijA.jpg
    • Tried following Ukswraths suggested ~4" distance between inner bicep and inner elbow, but it feels a bit long. Will show photos shortly
    • Incidentally - suggestions for what foam to buy as helmet/arm liner? - Helmet depends on what padding mthod you're going with and how big your head is.  Do you NEED foam in the arms?  I wouldn't if you can avoid it.  Adds a LOT of heat when wearing.
  • Belt
    • Cut replacement abs for backing, still need to glue and drill
      • bEgFsh3.jpg
    • Do I glue the Chicago screw backs to this backing, or to the 3 square covers? - I'd fill the square covers with glue and set the screws into that.  Drill a hole in the back of the backing plates to let the screw post through.  Make sure they're long enough to reach through the belt itself!
  • Posterior
    • Snaps are set
      • Ukswrath thread was designed for smaller poppers, so used his initial 5/8" measurement for the closer snap and noticed the second wouldn't fit as shown
        • 5jvEJNm.jpg
        • SB071L0.jpg
      • Changed it by eyeballing room for the next nearest one to be close on that centerline
        • YHSIYvH.jpg
        • * Yes the snaps were finally set both facing inward for the cod strap - had them pictured this way for layout marking
  • Next up - feels like we're getting close
    • Mounting sniper plate and thigh ammo pack pending someone here saying it's safe to cut return edges and drill the rivet holes
    • Final glue on left thigh/right shin
    • Continuing work on the belt
    • Continued strapping work, particularly in the chest, left arm, and kidney

 

Thigh ammo pack photos:

Centered:

20160303173543-5337c844-me.jpg

 

Outside edge:

20160303173548-fce6b177-me.jpg

 

Inside edge (already painted):

20160319234636-c9a6fd8f-me.jpg

 

Sniper Knee photos:

Note no return edge on bottom of sniper knee:

20160303175009-7cc9ce30-me.jpg

 

Note trimmed inside edge of sniper knee to show bend in underlying knee ridge:

20160303173535-d264ffb2-me.jpg

 

ab plate button cover photo:

20160319234812-f68cb281-me.jpg

 

 

Edited by kman

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