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Murray1134

Another MRCE WIP

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So I finally got the nerve to start on my MRCE. I got it apart, thanks to everyone here and No'l's tutorial. One thing I noticed is that the face seemed a bit thin, it was a little too easy to see through when held up to the light.

 

So this is how far I've gotten in about a day and a half.

 

100_3180.jpg

 

I'm letting the black sit for at least 24 hours before peeling off the paper and tape. Next up is the frown mold lines.

 

A few newbish questions about sanding and painting the exterior. Does wet sanding give you better results? With Krylon, is a primer required or will it bond to the plastic without one?

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I used Krylon Fusion, says you don't need a primer, but it doesn't hurt. I'm actually repainting mine because I messed up the frown grey and tried to do a quick fix...screwed up the touch-up, so I decided to prime again and shoot some new Fusion onto it.

 

I like the wet-sand, no major scratching and gives it a sheen. Hint. Do not use turtle wax until you are completely happy with the paint job (ie traps etc). The paint won't stick. :) Found that out the hard way...reason two why I'm repainting! :P

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Hey man, exciting stuff. I'll be watching this thread! :)

 

I'd say prime.

Even if you have to sand more because of the primer it's worth it to have that "base".

You can also use it as an "alert" to stop sanding then... reach the primer color, stop sanding.

 

I think wet sanding was an okay step in my case, but honestly I only REALLY did it once. (Only really primed once too... 2 coats, but one "session.") I'm not sure you have to do the wet sanding (from my experience), but... I would suggest go ahead and do it (at least once). I mean stick with the "do-it-all-like-you-want-and-will-be-happy-with" rule. :)

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I found sanding paint really easy, and didnt really take long. I used W&D and liked it, aslo gave a finer grit. I used a spray bottle/mister just to give it that little bit of lubrication. We in UK use a diff paint though, one from a car DIY shop - so cant tell u how Krylon/Rustoleum goes.

 

I'd prime. this is wot I did - but there is no hard and fast rule.

 

400/600 W&D to initial

primer x3

800/1200 W&D

gloss x3

800/1200 W&D - cos had a few runs

gloss x2

wait to mature - buff with cloth rather than using sandpaper

add in details -painting traps or applying decals etc

clear coat/lacquer x2

 

wait a good while for lacquer to mature before buffing

 

good luck mate

 

Nate

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Ugh, work work work work. Don't these people know I have a helmet I need to work on?!

 

With some help from a friend we've sanded down the 3 main pieces. I think it looks pretty good. Little to no gloss is visible. I still have to fill that frakin' mold line and the putty is not being my friend.

 

But, enough whining on my part, we all came for pictures!!

 

After pulling the tape off, no black overspray!

100_3185.jpg

 

First sand on the main pieces with 400 grit sandpaper, a mixture of wet and dry.

100_3205.jpg

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Question here for all you MR mod-veterans. I'm working on the assembly and I'm cutting away the excess pieces around the ears, and I've noticed a gap where the face meets the back. Personally, I think the face would look better with everything sitting flush. The problem seems to be a tab on the back piece. I see two different ways to handle this, is it better to cut a notch in the face for the tab or just cut the tab off?

 

This gap is what I'm trying to get rid of.

100_3337.jpg

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After sitting and staring at this thing for weeks now, I finally got around to working on it. Trimmed up the ears, aerators removed, sanding, sanding, sanding and more sanding.

 

100_3484.jpg

 

I just need to trim the brow, get new ear caps, aerators, paint and decals.

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Looking good there!

 

Can't wait to see the final result. The MRCE's ususally turn out really great.

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Wow.. I'm slow to update my own thread here. I think I've gotten the white base coat as good as it's going to be. So I got my decals, lenses, and painted the frown.

 

Now, I've been trying to decide if I want to make my suit into a TK-Commander or keep it all white. I think my decision has been made for me. A drop of grey paint fell, and it's been a pain to clean up. Ironically enough right where the grey paint fell was right where the blue TK-Commander stripe would go.

 

100_4365.jpg

 

100_4363.jpg

 

Now I just gotta order the trims, get some padding and reinstall the hovi's.

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I used Krylon Fusion, says you don't need a primer, but it doesn't hurt. I'm actually repainting mine because I messed up the frown grey and tried to do a quick fix...screwed up the touch-up, so I decided to prime again and shoot some new Fusion onto it.

 

I like the wet-sand, no major scratching and gives it a sheen. Hint. Do not use turtle wax until you are completely happy with the paint job (ie traps etc). The paint won't stick. :) Found that out the hard way...reason two why I'm repainting! :P

 

 

Turtle Wax? I never heard of using turtle wax. I am on my 3rd coat of paint. It's shinny but doesn't have the gloss that I was hoping to get!

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Turtle Wax? I never heard of using turtle wax. I am on my 3rd coat of paint. It's shinny but doesn't have the gloss that I was hoping to get!

 

A clear coat of gloss can help, as well as some good buffing.

 

I got a little bit more done today

 

100_4367.jpg

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Looking good as yet :) ....but the line at the frown, i had it drawn through.....well, it's matter of taste ;)

Keep it up, Mate

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Hi guys,

 

I got mine waiting for modding and no way to take off the aerators... I tried with o hot light, a hair dryer... with the hair dryer I could fell the aerator was moving, I could have take it off from the white plastic but the white plastic became too weak and its shape began to change...

 

How did you do guys to take it off without cutting into the plastic???

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I used a heat gun on a low setting from behind, and just kept wiggling the aereators until they came loose. I think you can see in the pictures I posted that there is a small lip of plastic holding the aereators in. Thats the only spot it is glued in at.

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I had a hard time getting mine off without the area around the aerators getting really soft, too. The key like Murray said the key is low heat. I just heated the inside up really slowly so the glue heated up before the plastic did, with a LOT of wiggling.

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Yep, same here, I just used a hairdryer, heating a little at a time and kept wiggling them until they came off. Take your time and be patient.

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Thanks to my wife's steady hand, I've got the final paint details on the earcaps.

100_4368.jpg

 

Can you see the bad spot? I'm not sure if it really needs to be fixed because you can't see it, even in person and up close.

100_4371.jpg

 

I'm just waiting on the accurate brow trim from TM, and some padding.

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Very nice job man!

Don't it make ya feel good!!! :D

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Got the padding and everything sorted. Looks like the helmet is officially finished :D

 

Did a quick test fitting to see how it all goes together.

100_4391.jpg

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