Murray1134

Been working on an MTK kit (technically it'll be going Sandtrooper but don't hold that against me ) I've run into one area that I need some advice or assistance with. The shins have a molded section on the back and I'm not sure if it needs to be cut off or if it's acceptable as is. This is with them taped to size and where I'd most likely put the cover strip With the tape and cover strips removed to see the full back detail

Thank you!

I've had my Doopy blaster for years and I've really liked it. I've finally decided to upgrade it and add the cylinders and counter, but I'm not sure on how to add them. Thought I'd run it by the experts here for some suggestions. This is what I currently have

This is what I've used for my TD and my TI. I can fit my entire TD (without the helmet) in there.

It kills me to see them do it, but it looks like LFL is continuing the trend of TKs with pauldrons. Sadly they are not just for Sandies anymore. How awesome is it to see classic TKs on the screen again though?

Love the detailed breakdown of the new armor. Kinda wishing I hadn't retired my FX suit now Looking at the suits I really can't shake the "This is an FX suit with an upgraded helmet" look. They still look like TKs, just not exactly like the ANH TKs. I do agree with what was said before about these might be modified suits for stunts since most of the TKs in action are getting blown up or thrown around, or the suits may have been changed to better accommodate stunt rigs and harnesses for the action scenes. It's gonna be hard to modify any of the current suits out there right now to match this look.

I recently got a voice amp unit, it's not an Aker but it's about the same size. I want to put it under my chest armor, either front or back I haven't yet decided. My biggest concern is how much I frequently sweat during an average troop. I was looking for suggestions about the best possible placement and/or waterproofing or ways to avoid damage due to sweat. Any tips or advice would be greatly appreciated.

After Saturday's troop I think the modifications actually worked out well. I do need to adjust the placement on my left side because the straps have too much play and not enough tension to hold. I didn't feel any poking or pinching and they weren't difficult to put on or take off. For anyone thinking about doing this, I don't think you need to make the straps as long as I made them. Most of the photos show them much shorter and you could probably get away with them being shorter.

2nd shin done tonight. The glue on the elastic seems to be holding. I'd post pictures but it's pretty much the same as the other side. A few issues with the length and placement, but nothing too bad. This would probably be much easier to do before the halves were put together.

Straps and hooks are sewn. If this works, I'll do the other one tomorrow.

I need to have it done for this weekend's troop, some people have wondered how the hook method will work on my FX shins. I can tell already it's going to need more work, but I wont know exactly what to do until after the troop. Nothing like last minute fixes right before a troop to test them out.

Step 1 - Remove the velcro and as much of the sticky goop as I could get off. Step 2 - Drill the holes for the hooks. Step 3 - Add elastic Step 4 - Profit!

Thanks!

I need to redo the closure on my calves and I've heard about the movie accurate way to do it with the elastic hook and eye. But I couldn't find any threads about it. Anyone have threads or pictures to help me get it started.

2 things learned on this build tonight. 1. Krylon paint is garbage, and I'll never use it again. 2. Don't rush these things, but make sure you have a deadline. I put down the coat of black paint on this and it's a mess. The paint was spraying unevenly, clogging, had a weird nozzle, the button would stick, just a nightmare of painting. The railing is glued in place, so it's pretty much good to go. Just needs some touch up work here and there. I've had a lot of fun building this, and I would do it again, especially considering what I've learned in doing this one. The gun has a good heft to it and feels solid. I'll have to see how it does on a troop tomorrow. I'm just so happy to not have to use my Hasbro anymore.

Base coat applied, definitely going to need to sand this down before I put the black down.

Did some tweaking on the railing to lower it and get it fitting in better. Next step is paint. I'm in a bit of a rush to get this finished, but I'm trying to not over do and mess it up.

Some more work done tonight, and that is what I have planned to do with the railing, I also have to shorten it up in the front too. I've got the scope now attached, unfortunately the brackets I've got are the wrong size, so I think I'm going to leave the Hengstler off for now. They were always falling off in the production anyways End cap is glued on and I've managed to get a spring inside. I used the "drumstick method" that was mentioned in another thread. Sorry, it's late and I don't remember the original poster. It took me about an hour and a half to get a wire hanger bent and properly sized to fit inside the barrel, but I'm happy with the final result.

It's 1/8" thickness (I think, I don't quite remember). Actually bending it was really easy. I put it into my makeshift vice (the side of my armor tub) hit it with a hammer a few times and then was able to bend it by hand. It's aluminum so it bends pretty easy. Cutting it down was the harder part. Thanks for the input on the height, it was seeming a little too high. Right now it goes past and over the rear sight, so I think I will cut it down there so that it sits in front of the rear sight, that should fix the height right?

Does the scope rail height look okey in this? I'm afraid of it being too high.

Got some more work done tonight. I've got the holes drilled for my scope, and I'm going to stop by Home Depot or Lowes one of these days to see if I can find a decent bracket. My work on the scope rail is decent for my complete lack of experience with cutting and shaping metal, and I'm not feeling like trying it again to make a more precise piece for the Hengstler Counter. It's at this point that I'm wishing I had built an ESB trooper, then I wouldn't have to mess with the counter at all. All that is left is attaching the counter to the rail, attaching the end cap, painting, attaching the scope rail to the rifle. I'm not sure if I'm going to try to put a spring inside or not, why would a blaster need a spring?

I got some more work done on this today. Cut the scope rail down. Next up is figuring out the scope attachment and the Hengstler Counter. ---------

Finally got some time to work on this again (translation, I managed to pull myself away from playing Mass Effect long enough to get some work done I got the scope rail bent and cut down, I just need to do the precision cuts and get a bracket to attach the Hengstler counter. Bending and cutting was the part I was really worried about, but it bent easily. I used my armor tub as a makeshift vice and a few good whacks with a hammer and I bent it in place by hand. I've rough cut the piece down to size as well with a hacksaw.

I hope to be working on it this weekend. I'm thinking that if I heat the bar up somewhat it might be easier to bend.

Found a flat aluminum bar at Home Depot, less than $5. Now, I just have to get my dremel back to cut it down.