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HSM76

E11 Blaster upgrade with BlastFX

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I got my BlastFX some time ago and started to strip my Sterling. The original Blaster is a deactivated Sterling with cut magazine, big eagle Hengstler and M38 1942 scope, cylinders from PlayfullWolfCub, and T-tracks from Wannawanga, the rail is made by me. 

 

5WoYFBT.jpg

 

Right now everything is taken apart. I have gutted the Hengstler to make room for the display.

I have removed the barrel and bolt from the gun. They have to make place for the electronics. Also part of the trigger assembly is out. Only the trigger with feather mechanism and fire mode switch stayed in. this way I have room for the trigger of the BlastFX in there. 

The bolt will be exchanged with a pvc tube:

xV5AeCS.jpg

Q1pvKld.jpg

I made openings in it for the clip and the whole to the trigger assembly, as well as the cocking bolt. 

The raised part was done with scrap ABS from the armour. 

After that I covered the visible part with aluminum tape:

OgItJEa.jpg

 

Next will be the longer part of figuring out the fitting and setting of the JST connectors to make the whole assembly easier. 

 

 

Edited by HSM76
Added picture of E11

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Very nice work, Sven. :duim:

I hope the aluminum foil can stand the friction from sliding through the receiver tube.

Will you paint that rail black?

Looking forward to your next update...

Edited by T-Jay
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AWESOME job on that blaster, Sven!  Could you post up some pics of the other side, as well as a detail photo of the end cap showing the D-ring?  A top view pic of the magazine and magazine well would be nice as well.  Thanks!

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Thank you very much! I hope, with the electronics I don't get to much difference in the setup. 

 

@T-Jay: I think I will paint the rail black as I need to route the wires for the display beneath it. That will cover it a bit.

The aluminum tape withstood the first 5 or so trials of sliding it in an out, until the cocking bolt fit as I wanted it. When the installation is done it should not move from its place, since it will hold the main part of the system, I will have to find a way to keep it (reversably) in place. 

 

@justjoseph63: there are some further pictures of it in my armour build thread: 

 

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Just a small update right now. I will use an acrylic tube to replace the barrel and hold the LED strip of the BlastFX as well as the muzzle LED. But I had some problems with it holding in the front. This coupled with the missing retainers of the muzzle screws made me think to build a front for the new "barrel". Thus I am rebuilding the front part. Here is a picture of the two parts in rough form. The white is 4 sheets of 1mm ABS glued together, the clear part is the cap of a small plastic bottle, which fortunately nearly had the size and form of the front of the original barrel. It needs a bit more work but here is a first picture of the two parts:

4qw2dw7.jpg

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Got a little further with the E11.

 

I made a holder for the trigger switch. It holds the switch against the trigger.

8JSR760.jpg

YnLR1Mg.jpg

 

The switch is held in there by ABS dowels which go through the holes.

The holder itself is held in the trigger assembly by a small sheet of ABS in the back, after aligning I secured it with hot glue.

zkCPEos.jpg

EpGEgOH.jpg

 

The "barrel" is done.

SyJsoXx.jpg

 

I already have installed the LEDs in there but I forgot to take pictures of it. Will post them later.

The LED strip is attached to a strip of ABS via velcro. (The double sided tape wouldn't hold ...)

 

I started prepping the counter for the display and drilled a hole for the wires.

 

q1IgFxG.jpg

 

One of the next big things will be to shorten the ejector and the cocking handle. The get in the way of the already limited space in the gun.

And without the cocking handle I can't get further with assembly.

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8 hours ago, HSM76 said:

... The holder itself is held in the trigger assembly by a small sheet of ABS in the back, after aligning I secured it with hot glue. ...

 

 

You're working with surgical precision here Sven; nothing like the patience, perseverance and exploratory-knowhow required to get the design implemented. Does your trigger holder make room for the trigger to get at it at maximum throw? This way, you don't accidentally put too much pressure on the trigger switch.

 

8 hours ago, HSM76 said:

... One of the next big things will be to shorten the ejector and the cocking handle. The get in the way of the already limited space in the gun. And without the cocking handle I can't get further with assembly.

 

I understand this entirely. When I went about scratch building my rear of the exposed bolt, which holds the cocking handle, I had to carve away under it so that electronic wiring was able to pass underneath it. Wish you the best in this endeavor.

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15 hours ago, Dracotrooper said:

 

You're working with surgical precision here Sven; nothing like the patience, perseverance and exploratory-knowhow required to get the design implemented. Does your trigger holder make room for the trigger to get at it at maximum throw? This way, you don't accidentally put too much pressure on the trigger switch.

 

Thank Jesse, yes it is installed so when the trigger is pulled fully, the plate of the switch touches the housing completely. So no additional pressure to the switch.

15 hours ago, Dracotrooper said:

I understand this entirely. When I went about scratch building my rear of the exposed bolt, which holds the cocking handle, I had to carve away under it so that electronic wiring was able to pass underneath it. Wish you the best in this endeavor.

With my setup I need the space in the bolt for the board, that is why the cocking handle needs to be a lot shorter. As of now it goes all the way through the bolt and takes up most of the room in there.

In a less intrusive way this goes for the ejector with the detail that it has a very sharp end which I don't want near the wires.

 

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7 hours ago, HSM76 said:

... In a less intrusive way this goes for the ejector with the detail that it has a very sharp end which I don't want near the wires. 

My exposed bolt is just a plate (in progress) I will put overtop of the opening. Your install is quite a bit more complex than mine with a shortened and yet movable exposed bolt with electronic motherboard inside. Perhaps wrap dense foam around the jet tail fin of the ejector? Perhaps it will be dense enough to stick to the fin without much adhesive? Proceed with caution though, would hate to see you malfunction your electronics like I did.

 

Here, I have the ejector fin hole created on the tube  and the ejector pokes into it. I had the electronic board sit a bit further down the exposed bolt window area and tried to keep wires away from it.

 

46016208821_7c516b6ece_z.jpg

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I have gone a bit away from the bolt being movable. The length of the bolt is the same as the real one.

But with the wire for the trigger going into the handle of the gun, I fear that it can get stuck, the same is for the wires of the LEDs. I have no way to get them I and out of the bolt during sliding it back. The bigger problem would be if it is pushes back in place by the spring. So I decided to keep it where it is after install.

 

Here is a picture of the barrel with the LEDs in it:

VHGWYah.jpg

 

And here the only thing I got to yesterday, shortening the handle and extractor with the Flex:

JSbg2WS.jpg

 

For bette understanding what gut cut, the outer ones are the original sizes of the parts.

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  1. On ‎11‎/‎25‎/‎2018 at 3:32 AM, HSM76 said:

... Here is a picture of the barrel with the LEDs in it:

 

VHGWYah.jpg ...

I see you recently purchased your BlastFX at it's version two glory! That LED strip is something else eh? I love how it shines yellow at the long blast setting. Genius idea using Velcro. I will take inspiration from you if I every go around getting a replacement BlastFX. ps. Glad you figured out a plan for the exposed bolt!

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Nice job on the blaster so far. Sorry I missed this build from the start. 

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