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Dracotrooper

Doopydoos Full Resin Kit WIP + Tino,Chris + more, Additional Parts

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My pleasure, brother!  There are lots of us who have built our own E-11s, and that reference was invaluable.  Hyperfirms are great, no doubt, but there is just something about an a well built E-11 that screams "accuracy" when built correctly.  I was actually questioned by the police at a troop, who were wondering if it was "real".  Quite the compliment.

Cool, very cool - I'm going for my personal best with aim for a screen accurate, battle worn, and realistic E-11. If I get mine confiscated, I'll be sure to let you know for kicks lol I see that the reference has multiple mod choices as well - lends to the builders skills, supplies, and tools available, making for a very versatile guide book. Will keep it close! Thanks again

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Very cool progress, Jesse. Loving how familiar some of your pictures look to me :P Thanks for the kudos. Happy to help.

Looking forward to your operational folding stock locking mechanism...

Edited by T-Jay

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17 hours ago, justjoseph63 said:

DANG YOU, Jesse!  I have completed 3 DD resin builds, getting more accurate each time (with Tino's kits) but you have inspired me to start another one!  BTW, if it helps, Danny (Ripper_L) has just updated the photos on the E-11 Blaster Reference thread, which should really come in handy.  

https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/32111-fisd-e-11-blaster-reference/

 

Wow, just read this and had no idea, somebody was working on this in the background. Will get in contact with Danny (Ripper_L).  :salute:

Sorry to hijack your thread, Jesse. Back to topic :)

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3 hours ago, T-Jay said:

Very cool progress, Jesse. Loving how familiar some of your pictures look to me :P Thanks for the kudos. Happy to help.

Locking forward to your folding stock locking mechanism...

Tino, you're the man:duim:

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Hi all,

I recently acquired a very interesting piece for my E-11 Blaster and excited to share! I have a replica Hengstler 400 Counter created by Tino himself. I just so happen to inquire about his counters after placing my completion set order as he had a limited run back on 2015 for conversion counters. I was delighted to hear he was about to do a limited run of complete counters and that I was first in line for one of these. As it turns out, he is not offering a run of these any longer so I have the one and only unique piece! I'm feeling pretty special about now.

 

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This replica Hengstler 400 Counter is a complete piece, fitted with an original Hengstler socket, and maintains the exact dimensions of the original counters. Tino masterfully shortens the metal housing and plastic cover to correct Hengstler size. Sorry Eagle enthusiasts, no big or small logo on this type of counter =) Without the two screws and boarder as well.

 

37392742665_caea3a78f8_z.jpg

 

Furthermore, this type of counter came with a D-shaped window for the plastic case side of the counter. The curvature is nice and I appreciate this detail. I agree with Tino that this stylized window exceeds the flat window on the original counters.

 

36985189050_9719032f71_z.jpg

 

The reset button for the number rolls is operational and numbers can be reset to zero with a push of this button. Number rolls are set manually by finger. Number rolls are each in black with all lettering in white, which is screen accurate.

 

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A really interesting feature that adds to the realism of the piece is the preservation of the coil; it can be seen inside the black plastic socket through the slots. The coil also adds believable weight to the counter. Adding further to the realism is Tino's added touch of including soldering and a short wire to the connector pins. I also asked Tino to age the counter and he's done a stand-up job.

 

37193380586_996e57e722_z.jpg

 

Tino with his fine craftsmanship, impressive indeed - I am fortunate to own this unique piece.

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Hi all,

I'm unclear as to how to install the bolts that hold the folding stock fork ends to the rear-under side of the receiver tube. The bolts from the completion set are domed with a square part directly under this domed bolt head. The bolt including thread measures 5 / 32 inches. How do I turn the screw and what pilot hole size is best to ensure a snug fit? What to do with the square base directly under the domed bolt head? I did a crude attempt that was strenuous and caused loud squeak sounds!

90a39b1a4e3df8f78ccb1670e2063e4e.jpg

b52bec3f8498f8744bd3a3e8bff221a2.jpg

9970570433e11d136144e5ac1861a841.jpg

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Hi all,

I'm unclear as to how to install the bolts that hold the folding stock fork ends to the rear-under side of the receiver tube. The bolts from the completion set are domed with a square part directly under this domed bolt head. The bolt including thread measures 5 / 32 inches. How do I turn the screw and what pilot hole size is best to ensure a snug fit? What to do with the square base directly under the domed bolt head? I did a crude attempt that was strenuous and caused loud squeak sounds!

90a39b1a4e3df8f78ccb1670e2063e4e.jpg

b52bec3f8498f8744bd3a3e8bff221a2.jpg

9970570433e11d136144e5ac1861a841.jpg


Hi Jesse,
Not saying its the right way to do it, but, I just made the hole in the folding stock large enough to take the square. As coach bolts usually have a nut at the back, which can't really be done here, I'll be gluing the coach bolt thread into the body (when I'm happy with where everything sits etc).

:-)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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I made the hole large enough to be snug on the square and thread. For a long time they were held in with friction! Though after a few times apart this was no longer good enough so I added a drop of CA glue.

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Hi Jesse, Not saying its the right way to do it, but, I just made the hole in the folding stock large enough to take the square. As coach bolts usually have a nut at the back, which can't really be done here, I'll be gluing the coach bolt thread into the body (when I'm happy with where everything sits etc). :-)


Thanks Dan - I understand more of the mechanics involved in using this kind of screw, very helpful. As I am creating a folding stock that can lock and unlock at the latch, I am wondering if applying CA glue at this hinge part would inhibit this functionality...

I made the hole large enough to be snug on the square and thread. For a long time they were held in with friction! Though after a few times apart this was no longer good enough so I added a drop of CA glue.


Interesting testimonial Chris, with the friction giving way, you need to apply CA glue anyway. If I need to apply CA glue, how to still enable swivelling of my folding stock? I am still rather confused...

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Interesting testimonial Chris, with the friction giving way, you need to apply CA glue anyway. If I need to apply CA glue, how to still enable swivelling of my folding stock? I am still rather confused...

 

Assuming you only apply glue to the barrel/stock mount, NOT the folding stock itself, I'd assume you'd still have full motion. :-)

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Assuming you only apply glue to the barrel/stock mount, NOT the folding stock itself, I'd assume you'd still have full motion. :-)


Ah of course! Thanks for clearing that up for me Dan
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As I'm relatively new to hobby building...I have a question about screw installation. With my coach bolts measuring a width of 5 / 32 " including the thread, do I simply go one step down to 9 / 64 " to create the pilot hole? Following, in going about to manually screw the coach bolt, would I then have the thread groves for a nice snug fit? This makes sense to me but I want to know if this is common practice or perhaps there's another method.

ee0dfaaae1c2c2d1e51d6410feeb7752.jpg

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I usually drill a tiny pilot hole first to ensure I start dead center then  I do go one bit size down from the screw diameter to drill out the hole. If it is too tight to thread you can try using the same size drill bit to shave off a bit more on the sides of the hole. 

   Sometimes I end up going to the next bit size up and it still leaves enough resin to thread into. If that takes off too much, green stuff or hobby epoxy will help to seal it up and re-drill to a better fitting.

  

 

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Also I have been testing the use of Blu tac as a non permanent way to keep things in place but allow parts to move without having to commit to glues. For my F-11D stock handle, I used aluminum tubing as a port to insert the screws into. I stuffed the tube with blue tac, screw the bolts into the tubing and they stay in place , allowing the stock handle to move. 

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I usually drill a tiny pilot hole first to ensure I start dead center then  I do go one bit size down from the screw diameter to drill out the hole. If it is too tight to thread you can try using the same size drill bit to shave off a bit more on the sides of the hole. Sometimes I end up going to the next bit size up and it still leaves enough resin to thread into. If that takes off too much, green stuff or hobby epoxy will help to seal it up and re-drill to a better fitting.


Right right, tiny pilot hole ensures for precision and one drill bit size down for pilot hole that's counter sunk a bit with bolt diameter to allow for easier grab contact when bolt is manually screwed in. I can see, that it is here, effort can be made to make sure bolt is coming in perpendicular with the piece. As it turned out, I blundered my pilot hole and waiting for green stuff to cure to have a second go.

Also I have been testing the use of Blu tac as a non permanent way to keep things in place but allow parts to move without having to commit to glues. For my F-11D stock handle, I used aluminum tubing as a port to insert the screws into. I stuffed the tube with blue tac, screw the bolts into the tubing and they stay in place , allowing the stock handle to move. 


Interesting results you've come away with in using Blu tac, glad that's working for you. Will need to explore this method for myself if I have the need. Thanks Brian for your help.

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Hi everybody,

 

Ah, the fun continues and quite happy about some results this latest go. In this latest round, I've cut out the latch on the inner rod of the folding stock and installed the latch itself. Hinge bolts also installed; folding stock now swivels and extends to the full back position. Although not pictured, it locks into place when pushed against the end cap, which was really exciting for me to see that functionality.

 

I know I needed to be pretty picky about the screw used for making the latch piece. It was a screw with a width just over 4mm so there was minimal back and forth when placed through and against the vent hole notch. The screw was wood in type so that it will have maximum grab when screwed into the pencil. It's length was measured out carefully as well so that there's minimal gap between the folding stock and receiver tube.

 

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Here is a close-up of the latch cut-out. Haven't done much since the rough cut-out of it.

 

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I used my Dremel with Diamond Cutter to shorten the screw. Pliers were used to hold the screw during cutting; the screw gets really hot! 5mm black heat shrink tubing placed and heated with heat gun to shrink the tubing onto the bolt thread. Latch piece screwed into pencil.

 

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Seeing the latch piece installed was a moment of pride as I prepared a long way to get here. It is functional and able to slide up and down the inner rod =)

 

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I was initially pretty confused on how to use carriage bolts for this part of the installation. The folding stock hinges installed nice and flush, with a bit of tightness when swiveling the folding stock, which I like.

 

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Here are some pictures of the folding stock attached.

 

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Finally, I confirmed that my latch piece dimensions are correct as it is able to bring the folding stock fairly flush against the receiver tube with showing minimal gap.

 

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Thanks for reading!

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Super mod with the stock latch Jesse. That’s really pushing your blaster to new heights. Lovin it!

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Super mod with the stock latch Jesse. That’s really pushing your blaster to new heights. Lovin it!


I'm encouraged to keep to task, thanks Brian!

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Feels like having a déjà-vous :D Glad to see your latest progress. This blaster is getting better and better...

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2 hours ago, T-Jay said:

Feels like having a déjà-vous :D Glad to see your latest progress. This blaster is getting better and better...

Thanks for dropping by Tino - always a pleasure ;)

5 minutes ago, Grizff18 said:

Love the build! Great photos too!

Hey terrific Fred, good to know, I'll keep the show going :duim:

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I thought I'd share some of my research as I look to create that vertical slit piece at the front end of the folding stock. Ducati has the housing for it described as a 'Front Pivot Bushi' in his pinned build thread entitled: Ducati's Build.  Interesting to compare how different builders have gone to recreate this and that vertical piece of the folding stock. For a stock that doesn't unfold, like mine, I will see to mimic as closely as possible that vertical piece as shown in the FISD E-11 Blaster Reference.

 

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On ‎9‎/‎29‎/‎2017 at 2:00 AM, Dracotrooper said:

I thought I'd share some of my research as I look to create that vertical slit piece at the front end of the folding stock. Ducati has the housing for it described as a 'Front Pivot Bushi' in his pinned build thread entitled: Ducati's Build.  Interesting to compare how different builders have gone to recreate this and that vertical piece of the folding stock. For a stock that doesn't unfold, like mine, I will see to mimic as closely as possible that vertical piece as shown in the FISD E-11 Blaster Reference.

 

37346399992_0c79af8d96_z.jpg

Here's a photo of an actual Sterling SMG, so it looks like Ducati and T-jay got it spot on. 

5752524759_6810ede72d_z.jpg

 

*Update: mine is definitely wrong so I'm going to correct it. Kudos to you for highlighting this bit of detail Jesse.

Edited by tennantlim
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On ‎10‎/‎8‎/‎2017 at 9:40 AM, tennantlim said:

Here's a photo of an actual Sterling SMG, so it looks like Ducati and T-jay got it spot on.  *Update: mine is definitely wrong so I'm going to correct it. Kudos to you for highlighting this bit of detail Jesse.

I do allot of R&D at work; it's required for the job and like part of my DNA now. Glad to share my E-11 research for you and others to benefit. Thanks for the photo Tennant; I'll add it to my archives :duim:

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