Jump to content
Marshall

Marhsall's Doopydoos E11 pipe build

Recommended Posts

Hello there.

Since I've ordered my Anovos TK kit like some of you out there, I've definitely some time to dedicate to other projects. In order to warm up for my "big brown box day", I've decided to give a shot and test my crafting skills by building my blaster.

After some weeks spent researching this section and surfing over the net, I've come up with my own plan which (at the moment) includes:

 

 

- 38 mm outer diameter aluminum pipe (2mm wall thick);

- Doopydoos pipe kit

- Doopydoos resin scope

- handmade Hengstler counter (need a hollow one to house some electronics in the future)

- T-Jays Completion Set

- some T-Tracks ---> still have to find a good/reasonably priced kit

- power cylinder ----> still looking for them

 

 

I've downloaded some Sterling templates to drill and cut the pipe, and also to position all the kit in the correct places, so after adjusting the scale to match the actual measures, I've decided to start.

20150616_193053_zpsv0qkfcno.jpg

20150616_193557_zpszhb0yerp.jpg20150616_194509_zps3sbpppt8.jpg

 

I've decided to use a center-punch to have some starting/guiding holes for the step-bit in order to avoid wandering around and messing up with the final result

20150616_194643_zpsrepcq0p7.jpg

 

Using the step-bit drill on a stand was definitely awesome. I've ended up with a nice result in a decent time and not hurting my neighbours ears for too long ;)

20150616_201951_zps393nrnqy.jpg

20150616_212942_zps5rfxyglk.jpg

 

The downside was the aluminium flashing inside the pipe, which left me unsatisfied with the result.

20150616_214322_zps6bmgyxrp.jpg

 

that's why I took my trustworthy Dremel and arranged to remove all the flashing with a high speed spherical cutter. Much better.

20150617_214155_zpsah0jjb26.jpg

 

time to cut the long charging handle hole. Having just a Dremel with some cutting disk is not going to be an easy task. I used two wooden boards with a cm gap in between to have something where I could make the pipe slide whilst I kept the Dremel with the cutting tool as still as I could.

After about 40 minutes this is the final result (with some sandpaper to refine some spots). I still have to repair some imprecisions, but I think that with some filler this could be worked out.

20150629_133217_zpsiigzrgga.jpg

 

The ejection port has proven to be quite tricky to work with just the Dremel, therefore I decided to grind out the most of it and go with some sanding paper to have more control and refine the job.

5c907a52-0d9b-43a4-8467-8edc8085e8e1_zps

 

To be continued....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Watching with much interest! Can you show a pic of this spherical cutter you mentioned for your dremmel??

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This is the spherical cuttter I used to clean the internal aluminum flashing.

http://www.dremel.com/en-us/Accessories/Pages/ProductDetail.aspx?pid=114

It took a while to get used to manouver inside the holes but after a while I managed to find the right circular movement and get rid of the thick flashing.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Soft metals..... I guess that's not gonna work on steel

 

I've never tried, but I assume it would be hard.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Time to resume some work. The dreadful ejection port still needs a lot to do.

After my rough work I used a cylindrical high speed cutter with my dremel to grind all the unwanted aluminum, and later some sanding work to refine. I ended up quite satisfied with the result (minor spots to be fixed with filler later on).

20150630_212756_zpsg2t6dsut.jpg

 

Yes, what you see in the background is the tiny brown box, just arrived today:

20150630_195021_zpshhlsm6mc.jpg

 

a quick check to see if everything's there:

20150630_195209_zpsytnoipxn.jpg

 

and then straight to the sink to rinse off all the powder still on the surfaces

20150630_195342_zpsushuo5fr.jpg

 

 

After this, I decided to try seeing how some pieces would fit with my chosen pipe and got my first red light. The end-cap, the bolt and the muzzle are not correctly sized for my pipe. Maybe is this due to the fact that my pipe is a 38mm outer diameter and the DD kit is thought for a 40mm?

20150630_212941_zpsf70sesmr.jpg

20150630_213042_zpsputuru7g.jpg

20150630_213013_zpst712newo.jpg

20150630_213106_zpslqdkjii7.jpg

 

Now some doubts. I can surely sand the muzzle and the bolt to fit into the pipe, but what about the end-cap? I can definitely thicken the pipe at the junction in order to better match the larger end-cap diameter, but I can also thicken the end-cap on the inside. What would be the best route for you? Thanks in advance for the help.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The end cap should be OK. There should be a small section at the back of the barrel that's slightly thicker that the end cap slots into. Don't have a good pic to post right now, but if you search around you should see it

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So, I shortened the whole pipe to 18" 1/4  removing the excess from the bottom and leaving some 16mm to be overlapped by the hollow end-cap.

 

After that, I started working on the muzzle, removing the "screws" and leaving some space for the one I'll get from T-Jay Completion set.

20150702_222646_zpsl7b2zpx0.jpg

I managed to remove some thickness of the interior part and now it finally fits my pipe.

20150702_222746_zps2u15hh1e.jpg

20150702_222753_zpshzfbu95s.jpg

I also tried to balance the center hole of the muzzle as it looked oddly off centered. I'm still not quite convinced with the result and will probably fill the whole thing with some epoxy and then drill a new one. What do you think?

I also got the impression that the whole muzzle is thought for a 40mm pipe and my 38mm drove me to remove too much of the outer rim of the muzzle base. Should I need to sand the middle part of the muzzle too to even that?

Edited by Marshall

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It's been a while since I posted on my project. It wasn't for the lack of interest but I started studying for a certification and working full time in an office doesn't help with that. Anyhow, I managed to make a few progresses. As I received T-Jay completion set, in order to improve the overall look of the blaster, I started to grind away some resin and replaced it with real nicer parts...

 

first of all, I got rid of the plastic screw at the base of the grip, replacing it with some space for a real allen screw

20150904_121518_zpsxn8jzeru.jpg

20150904_121502_zpssjnzhzsr.jpg

20150904_122237_zpsacipib1o.jpg

20150904_122252_zpskvmwrf5x.jpg

 

then I concentrated my attention to the muzzle with the same reason. I also went through it from part to part to allow some electronic updates (LEDs?).

20150904_123139_zpskmwfznmg.jpg

20150904_123127_zpssnf0ufkz.jpg

20150904_123123_zps9fizkv7n.jpg

20150904_123956_zpskejdgebj.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

What really kept me away from significant advancements in the blaster construction was the electronic part. I did wanted my blaster to sound and flash like a real E11, so I can surprise kids at events but mostly because I'm a nerd^2 and a silent blaster wouldn't just do the part in my view.

 

So I started looking for projects out there, got particular interest in Skyone project with Arduino, even if I knew almost zero of electronics. But since I have some coding knowledge, I I decided to go along that route.

I want to "stuff" the Hengstler counter with most of the electronic components, so I had to go really small with their size.

 

I orderd some pieces, an Arduino Uno with some components/jumper wires/breadboard kit to prototype all the project without too much problems/small spaces

When I'll transfer all the components into the blaster I'm going to replace it with an Arduino Mini Pro:

11113-01d.jpg

I then got a sound module working with microSD (wtv020sd16):

 

T1_9lpXfBXXXcuEaLc_125739_jpg_310x310.jp

 

to increase the volume I then got a small amplifier:

adafruit_products_1552_LRG.jpg?139154692

 

and I also got a small couple of speakers (which I'll Mount into the aluminum tube right before the barrell:

speaker1_zpsttgadibm.pngspeaker2_zpseymjrnax.jpg

 

As for the laser/flashgun part, I decided to try RGB led digital strips such as this:

1506-00.jpg

 

 

I still haven't completed the light part, but I definitely wanted to share with you my latest advancement:

20150904_124733_zps1nf1qnda.jpg

There are (for now) 3 switches that control:

- fire

- select weapon mode (blaster / stun)

- reload ammo

 

I also added a feature that pressing the weapon selector button for more than 1 sec, the Imperial march would be played (got this idea from Skyone)

 

I have to thank Skyone not only for the inspiration, but also for the sound fonts, they're really great. I think I would stick with these two blaster sounds by now (plus song and reload/empty/switchon effects).

 

this is a video of the project working (please forgive my english and the stained table... ;) ):

https://www.youtube.com/watch/?v=qOeh0AWY-YI

 

For now I think it's all. I'll post more updates as soon as I'll get the LED strip to work...

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

As for the Arduino code, here it is (should anyone be interested in it):

#include <Wtv020sd16p.h>

int resetPin = 2;  // The pin number of the reset pin.
int clockPin = 3;  // The pin number of the clock pin.
int dataPin = 4;  // The pin number of the data pin.
int busyPin = 5;  // The pin number of the busy pin.

//Set pin numbers
const int buttonFire = 8; // Fire
const int buttonSelect = 9; // Weapon Select
const int buttonReload =10; // Reload
const int ledPin = 13;

// variables will change
int buttonFireState = 0;
int buttonSelectState = 0;
int lastButtonSelectState = LOW;
int lastButtonFireState = LOW;
int buttonReloadState = LOW;
int buttonSelectCounter = 0;
int ammoCounter = 0;
int totalAmmunition = 10; //set number of ammunition per round
int held = 0;
int held2 = 0;

//
long time = 0;
long timeFire = 0;
long debounce = 200;

/*
Create an instance of the Wtv020sd16p class.
1st parameter: Reset pin number.
2nd parameter: Clock pin number.
3rd parameter: Data pin number.
4th parameter: Busy pin number.
*/
Wtv020sd16p wtv020sd16p(resetPin,clockPin,dataPin,busyPin);

void setup(){
  //Initializes the module.
  wtv020sd16p.reset();

  //initialization of the pins
  pinMode(buttonFire, INPUT);
  pinMode(buttonSelect, INPUT);
  pinMode(buttonReload, INPUT);
  pinMode(ledPin, OUTPUT);
  // initialize serial communication (for debug)
  Serial.begin(9600);
  //play start sound
  delay(600);
  wtv020sd16p.asyncPlayVoice(0);
}

void loop() {
  //read the selector button input pin:
  buttonSelectState = digitalRead(buttonSelect);
  // compare the state to its previous state:
  if (buttonSelectState == HIGH && lastButtonSelectState == LOW && millis() - time > debounce) {
    //reset the held counter with the latest reading (otherwise held goes bigger and bigger)
    held=held-held2;
    while (digitalRead(buttonSelect) == HIGH && held < 10) {
      delay(100);
      held++;
    }

    // if the state has changed and button has been pressed for less than 1 sec, increment the counter
    if (buttonSelectState == HIGH && held < 10) {
      //if the current state is HIGH then the button
      //wend from off to on:
      buttonSelectCounter++;
      //play change weapon sound
      ammoCounter=0;
      wtv020sd16p.asyncPlayVoice(4);
      //debug lines - REMOVE WHEN FINISHED
      Serial.print("Selector button pushed: ");
      Serial.println(buttonSelectCounter);
      Serial.print(" times");
    }
    if (buttonSelectState == HIGH && held >= 10) {
      Serial.println("Long pressure detected");
    }
    else {
      //if the current state is low, then the button wend from
      //on to off
      Serial.println(" off");
    }
    time = millis();
  }
  
  //if Select button has been pressed for less than 1 second, switch between blaster sounds
  if (held < 10) {
    //compare the fire button state to its previous and adjust for debounce
    buttonFireState = digitalRead(buttonFire);
    if (buttonFireState == HIGH && lastButtonFireState == LOW && millis() - timeFire > debounce) {
      //if we have status A use the normal blaster effect
      if (buttonSelectCounter % 2 == 0) {
        if (buttonFireState==HIGH) {
          //loop for finished ammunition
          if (ammoCounter>=totalAmmunition) {
            //play empty magazine sound
            wtv020sd16p.asyncPlayVoice(5);
            ammoCounter++;          
          }
          //loop for remaining ammunition >0 
          if (ammoCounter<totalAmmunition) {
            digitalWrite(ledPin,HIGH);
            //play fire sound
            wtv020sd16p.asyncPlayVoice(1);
            ammoCounter++;
            buttonFireState=0;
            digitalWrite(ledPin, LOW);
            Serial.println(“you shot: ");
            Serial.print(ammoCounter);
            Serial.println(" times”);
          }
         }
         else {
          digitalWrite(ledPin, LOW);
         } 
      }  
      // if Select is in status B use stun blaster effect   
      else {  
        buttonFireState = digitalRead(buttonFire);
        if (buttonFireState==HIGH) {
          //loop for finished ammunition
          if (ammoCounter>=totalAmmunition) {
            //play empty magazine sound
            wtv020sd16p.asyncPlayVoice(5);
            ammoCounter++;          
          }
          //loop for remaining ammunition >0 
          if (ammoCounter<totalAmmunition) {
            digitalWrite(ledPin,HIGH);
            //play fire sound
            wtv020sd16p.asyncPlayVoice(2);
            ammoCounter++;
            buttonFireState=0;
            digitalWrite(ledPin, LOW);
            Serial.println("hai sparato: ");
            Serial.print(ammoCounter);
            Serial.println(" colpi");
          }
         }
         else {
          digitalWrite(ledPin, LOW);
         }  
      
      }
      timeFire = millis();
    }
  }
  
  //if the Select button has been pressed longer than 1 Sec, play Imperial March
  if (held >=10) {
    buttonFireState=digitalRead(buttonFire);
    buttonSelectState=digitalRead(buttonSelect); 
    if (buttonFireState==HIGH) {
      digitalWrite(ledPin,HIGH);
      //Plays synchronously an audio file. Busy pin is used for this method.
      wtv020sd16p.asyncPlayVoice(6);
      buttonFireState=0;
      digitalWrite(ledPin, LOW);
      }
      else {
       digitalWrite(ledPin, LOW);
      }  
  }
  
  // save the current state as the last state
  lastButtonSelectState = buttonSelectState;
  lastButtonFireState = buttonFireState;
  
  // store held value for Select button for next loop cycle
  held2=held;
  
  //check if reload button has been pressed
  buttonReloadState = digitalRead(buttonReload);
  if (buttonReloadState==HIGH) {
    wtv020sd16p.asyncPlayVoice(3);
    ammoCounter=0;
    buttonReloadState=0;
  }
}

it uses an external library to control the sound module. Such library can be found here: http://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=117009.0;attach=34018

Edited by Marshall

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

yes, me too. As a matter of fact I'm still undecided on whether to buy a fake Hengstler counter from Doopydoops and hollowing out to make some room for electronics or starting from scratch and buy it from plasticard. I'm more inclined on the latter.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

New updates.

I decided to build the Hengstler counter myself so here's how it's coming:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

20150908_222737_zps6zlhuk5r.jpg

20150908_222303_zpsj3vphts2.jpg

20150908_230615_zps1vzbzceh.jpg

20150908_231054_zpsly8rckmm.jpg

20150909_001934_zps3fgy60uq.jpg

20150909_202724_zpsiwov4iis.jpg

20150909_202754_zpsgm67chzq.jpg

20150911_011505_zps97lixwuz.jpg

20150911_011512_zpschvtmup4.jpg

20150911_011518_zps7relymep.jpg

Edited by Marshall
  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nice work, Niccolo!!!

Why are there not more people posting / following this thread?

Inspiring work with the electronics!!!

I'll definitely be watching to see how this turns out!   :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Niccolo - I love the work that you are carrying out on your counter.....very impressive.

 

I'm tempted to look at a pipe build once my resin build.

Edited by Thrawn's guard

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Soft metals..... I guess that's not gonna work on steel

You can get tungsten carbide cutters for Dremels.  I don't have any in that size but I do have full size die grinder carbide bits and they cut through steel like butter if you want them to.

 

yes, me too. As a matter of fact I'm still undecided on whether to buy a fake Hengstler counter from Doopydoops and hollowing out to make some room for electronics or starting from scratch and buy it from plasticard. I'm more inclined on the latter.

Your plasticard counter case looks awesome.  I know how it's harder than it looks as I've now binned 2!  Even a small screw up shows up in a big way.

 

Also I really like the tube drilling rig you have, do you have a brand/model name?  I'm soon going to be starting an aluminium build after a failed attempt using some PVC.  I'm torn on the doopy pipe kit or the more expensive Phoenix kit atm.  What's the quality of the moulding like?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You can get tungsten carbide cutters for Dremels. I don't have any in that size but I do have full size die grinder carbide bits and they cut through steel like butter if you want them to.

 

Your plasticard counter case looks awesome. I know how it's harder than it looks as I've now binned 2! Even a small screw up shows up in a big way.

 

Also I really like the tube drilling rig you have, do you have a brand/model name? I'm soon going to be starting an aluminium build after a failed attempt using some PVC. I'm torn on the doopy pipe kit or the more expensive Phoenix kit atm. What's the quality of the moulding like?

Hi. Not completely sure of what you mean with drilling tube rig. I used a vertical drill stand loke this http://www.amazon.co.uk/Bench-Mountable-Power-Drill-Plunge/dp/B00DIB300U with a pipe vise like this http://www.ebay.com/itm/251236157678?redirect=mobile. I then used a step bit to drill holes of proper size. I am not completely satisfied with the behaviour of this equipment. A vertical drill station would had done a much better and more precise job but unfortunately I had no access to such thing nor the space to keep one at home so I had to compromise. Regarding the Doopydos pipe kit, the quality is ok apart fort the obvious bolts which are unprecise and need to be replaced by real ones. Keep in mind that the kit has no counter, scope, power cylinders and t-tracks so you'll have to look somewhere else for this (doopydoos only offer separate counter and scope).

 

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

Edited by Marshall

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well. I have to admit it's been a long time since I updated this thread. But now I've almost completed the project so it's time for some sharing with you:

 

First of all, my DIY Hengstler Counter wasn't solid enough to contain the circuitry so I replaced it with a 3d model printed off Shapeways, which I opened it up and gutted from the unwanted stuff (the rotating digits).

20161208_220508_zpsvgvgo799.jpg

20161208_220517_zpsccwiwy47.jpg

20161208_220511_zpslbnju1hb.jpg

20161208_220527_zpsv6vhykfv.jpg

 

 

 

This should now help containing the main circuit board:

20170220_172050_zpsr2kw8enr.jpg

 

some resin paste to smooth the cap and to better shape the hole for the led graph/counter. plus a hole to fit the button to reload/change weapon (still undecided which function).

I'd probably redo the work once more to "clean" the face look. Nonetheless, it looks "old" and 70's-80's enough to fit the role. I just have to find a suitable button cover to make it usable with stormtrooper gloves instead of just fingernails...

20170410_132605_zpszoc35wmt.jpg

Now some holes for the trigger

20161208_220411_zpspw8dxaed.jpg

20161208_220430_zpsoq2a7jrs.jpg

 

 

And the cables....

20161208_220416_zpsowhemq27.jpg

20161208_220423_zpsbvrgdn70.jpg

 

Time for some paint and test fitting of the buttons

20170220_123148_zpsbov20cip.jpg

20170220_123157_zpsmaseqbkm.jpg

some Sugru to keep everything in place

20170220_123201_zpsuor29mlv.jpg

Trigger is working smoothly. Ready to be painted now.

20170220_123231_zpsf3pmgxdm.jpg

 

Time to drill a couple of holes for the cable to pass into the main tube

20161208_220441_zpsi5avjlt0.jpg

 

and also some other holes for cables to exit into the counter and to the magazine receiver

20170220_163032_zps5sfy4v9q.jpg

 

I'll see later how to best cover the one behind the counter if I feel the need to do that (don't think so).

Edited by Marshall

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Now attaching the rear sight (epossidic glue + blue tape to keep in place)

20170405_231623_zps2szro8n7.jpg

and the 2 guards

20170405_231630_zpsb55oaobn.jpg

20170405_231634_zpsj2ecpguw.jpg

 

Let's paint (2 layers of primer + several matt black)

20170407_090331_zpsgxydgtlz.jpg

20170407_090337_zpsc9cb6ogx.jpg

 

Time to bend some T-tracks

20170407_200444_zpsdpk1z53y.jpg

 

checkin' pieces

20170407_200436_zps9u9dvcm2.jpg

 

attaching the main grip

20170407_202436_zpskxqsyymx.jpg

 

Now let's have a look at the scope (3d printed model + lenses from a cheap ebay monocle). Mounting rail cut and bent with my old good dremel.

20170410_132541_zpsmgcvy0fc.jpg

20170410_132545_zpsjaee2qe1.jpg

20170410_132548_zpsihxajxkn.jpg

20170410_132553_zpsaotasqts.jpg

 

Now let's cut this to size

20170407_203340_zpsr8agg0o4.jpg

20170407_203347_zpszawhecqr.jpg

 

Head shaping and test fit for the LED strip

20170407_204023_zpszsfpptj3.jpg

20170407_204026_zpsvz1tyewl.jpg

20170407_204032_zpsvipxbiys.jpg

 

cutting 2 round supports to fix into the main tube:

20170407_221205_zpsakpqijpf.jpg

 

and test fitting

20170407_221228_zpsyocyuh0w.jpg

 

sorry, I then rushed a bit for an upcoming event where I wanted the blaster to be almost ready so I forgot to take some pics.

anyhow, the on-ff button is the magazine trop button, with cables going then into the main tube to interrupt the main power line:

20170407_221232_zpsy2yeakwn.jpg

perfectly working

 

gluing everything (even myself, several times)

20170408_011600_zpsaxgjt7vo.jpg

the magnet shown in the receiver end cap had been taken out as they didn't allow for a complete fitting down of it, I'll have to think of a different approach to being able to open/close it (I need the cap to work in order to access the tube for taking out the usb power bank that powers the whole system).

 

cables everywhwere (in the background the whole circuit assembled (tiny but stuffed)...

20170409_002937_zpsoqnqwr5a.jpg

 

the black foam sleeve will cover the mess from the cable in order to not show on the outside.

20170409_002941_zpsl2lzvh8g.jpg

 

more foam on the inside of the receiver end cap to secure it to the main tube, still have to find a more stable and proper solution but I'll end up replicating the original approach with a ring applied on the outer part of the tube and a more pronounced cap lock.

I'll also have to modify the secure lock on the lower part of the tube, but for today it'll do.

20170410_135336_zpsu7fifgx9.jpg

 

D-ring from T-jay's set

20170410_135349_zpsrvbnusdc.jpg

 

almost done

20170409_034215_zpsyqzpuvfv.jpg

 

3d printed power cylinders

20170410_132611_zpsesanqdcd.jpg

 

I'll attach more pics later and videos as well. This one has been taken at around 3.45 in the moring, before my first troop. I was waaaaaay tired

Edited by Marshall

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This is a fantastic build thread you have here. I wish I had found and followed you earlier in this project. Loving the electronics you have as I have no idea where to start mine. Thinking of robbing from a Disney blaster to keep it easy. Keep up the great work.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks mate!

 

I've learned the hard way myself. I knew almost 0 of electronics when I started this project... And relying heavily on Arduino as I did is a bit cheating but nonetheless, since I'm pretty good at coding, I felt that was my path...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

×
×
  • Create New...