Jump to content
Bulldog44

Bulldog44 DD E-11Build

Recommended Posts

Well done... as always! The firing pin looks spot on.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Wow, I'm going crazy on the details of this inner bolt :duim: and your power cylinders reminded me of the days I did mine :D. Will you add wires to the front of the three central capacitors?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

What can we say apart from astonishing work?! 

 

 Spent 2 bucks on brass tubing for just that tiny piece.

 

That's the spirit ;)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well done... as always! The firing pin looks spot on.

Wasn't sure I got the size correct but glad you approve! My finger tips lost posts of skin sanding those tiny pieces down.

 

  

Wow, I'm going crazy on the details of this inner bolt :duim: and your power cylinders reminded me of the days I did mine :D. Will you add wires to the front of the three central capacitors?

 

Your power cylinder mod is proof you can turn something average into something super cool. It's been fun and challenging to incorporate your ideas for the cylinders. Hats off to you for those ideas! I will add the wires tonight if I get time.post photos when I get it done.

 

 

Great work Brian. Nice idea on the metal sleeve for the trigger

Thanks. I am always worried about sealing up these parts and lose access once its painted . so I am trying to stick to ideas that allow for more flexibility to make repairs or add ideas later on. Maybe the metal sleeve has been done before but if not, hope this helps future builds.

 

  

What can we say apart from astonishing work?!  

Very happy to receive such kind words. I will try to keep the bar high if I can.

That's the spirit ;)

I guess if I build another 20 doopy kits with the same firing pin, I will be able to make use of all that brass.Lol! I will never exactly know how much money I have already spent on all the little parts and materials for this build. Probably best not knowing......just keep steaming ahead!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

As I have said before, the brilliance within this Detachment is astonishing!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

As I have said before, the brilliance within this Detachment is astonishing!

It's a good time to be building a blaster, so many talented people to pull ideas from and get great solid advice. I hope many of these custom mods find their way to newer members to access. Digging through the build posts is fun but it would be cool to have a simple visual guide to all the different mods to pick & choose from as you journey through your build.

 

I will put up some photos of my semi-finished power cylinders tomorrow! Got the wires installed but forgot to take pics.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

RIDICULOUSLY AWESOME!!!  I read it three four times!

 

I've sanded fingerprints off more than once fabricating tiny parts...they grow back!  Excellent work on the power cylinders.  They're tougher than they look, to make accurately.

 

I was initially confused about your "firing pin".  Took me a minute to figure out you're talking about the "extractor" and "extractor plunger".  The extractor grabs the groove on the back of the shell and extracts it from the chamber.  The extractor plunger (brass part) constantly applies pressure to the extractor, which causes it to pivot forward to grab the next round.  Yours looks like the real deal!  In fact, the entire bolt is INCREDIBLE.  Almost a shame to paint it...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

RIDICULOUSLY AWESOME!!!  I read it three four times!

 

I've sanded fingerprints off more than once fabricating tiny parts...they grow back!  Excellent work on the power cylinders.  They're tougher than they look, to make accurately.

 

I was initially confused about your "firing pin".  Took me a minute to figure out you're talking about the "extractor" and "extractor plunger".  The extractor grabs the groove on the back of the shell and extracts it from the chamber.  The extractor plunger (brass part) constantly applies pressure to the extractor, which causes it to pivot forward to grab the next round.  Yours looks like the real deal!  In fact, the entire bolt is INCREDIBLE.  Almost a shame to paint it...

Thanks Aaron. I have used your previous metal pipe build a lot to get things to look as good as possible. The power cylinders are a bit of a disappointment when you compare them to Andy's and the ones you made on your pipe build. Every time I look at reference pics, I find something way off on mine. I might try and make my own someday but the caps look daunting to create without proper tools.

I spent the past two nights trying to get those braided wires to set nicely using superglue. I replaced the loss of skin with a double layer of superglue.

 

Sorry about the sterling part mislabeling and thanks for correcting me. Wasn't sure what to call that part but now i know! Extractor sounds a lot better too! Don't know why I called it a firing pin.....you can clearly see I know nothing about real guns! Up close my homemade extractor doesn't look that accurate but I am happy you give your seal of accuracy. I spent all last weekend shaping it and getting a snug fit.just got to set it in place .

 

I am not planning on painting the bolt. I will tone down the shine a bit more and rub on some black shop grease and see if that gives it a better look. If that fails then maybe a semi-transparent wash of color. Painting it over entirely would cause it to lose that real metal look I was hoping to capture.

If you have any other suggestions I can try please let me know.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Aaron. I have used your previous metal pipe build a lot to get things to look as good as possible. The power cylinders are a bit of a disappointment when you compare them to Andy's and the ones you made on your pipe build. Every time I look at reference pics, I find something way off on mine. I might try and make my own someday but the caps look daunting to create without proper tools.

I spent the past two nights trying to get those braided wires to set nicely using superglue. I replaced the loss of skin with a double layer of superglue.

 

Sorry about the sterling part mislabeling and thanks for correcting me. Wasn't sure what to call that part but now i know! Extractor sounds a lot better too! Don't know why I called it a firing pin.....you can clearly see I know nothing about real guns! Up close my homemade extractor doesn't look that accurate but I am happy you give your seal of accuracy. I spent all last weekend shaping it and getting a snug fit.just got to set it in place .

 

I am not planning on painting the bolt. I will tone down the shine a bit more and rub on some black shop grease and see if that gives it a better look. If that fails then maybe a semi-transparent wash of color. Painting it over entirely would cause it to lose that real metal look I was hoping to capture.

If you have any other suggestions I can try please let me know.

 

I talked to Andy quite a bit, refined drawings several times and even investigated having base plates water jetted or laser cut...and I'm still slighty off.  Power cylinders are tough because they're so small to start with - at that scale, a half a millimeter mistake ruins the whole thing.  I'm right there with you.

 

Just sharing about the gun parts.  I didn't know ANYTHING about Sterlings back in May.  I didn't even know they existed.  Live and learn.

 

I think you're on the right track with the bolt.  Toning it down seems like a lot better idea than painting.  Keep up the great work!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

RIDICULOUSLY AWESOME!!!  I read it three four times!

 

I've sanded fingerprints off more than once fabricating tiny parts...they grow back!  Excellent work on the power cylinders.  They're tougher than they look, to make accurately.

 

I was initially confused about your "firing pin".  Took me a minute to figure out you're talking about the "extractor" and "extractor plunger".  The extractor grabs the groove on the back of the shell and extracts it from the chamber.  The extractor plunger (brass part) constantly applies pressure to the extractor, which causes it to pivot forward to grab the next round.  Yours looks like the real deal!  In fact, the entire bolt is INCREDIBLE.  Almost a shame to paint it...

 

I think this was my fault as I used the terminology firing pin for this piece when describing it, at a loss for what else to describe it. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

No sweat Dday. It's better than my first thought which was " the metal thingy with the brass tube"! Learn something new everyday.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

-_- Sorry to bore with more of the same stuff I have been working on. Just some minor details added and promised photos taken before I passed out from lack of sleep. 

 

Trigger in place with:  need to epoxy the nut side but otherwise this is how it looks.

 

I replaced the small round head button-like thingy with an aluminium round head rivet. Almost the same size. The drilled hole is slightly too big so it just keeps falling out. Hoping to connect it to the screw that goes through the grip from the other side with some threaded bolt.Tried it but no luck getting it to fit just yet.

IMG_6794_zpsfe494261.jpg

 

Opposite side of the grip showing the screw that holds the trigger in place and the slotted brass screw. ( :jc_doublethumbup: Thank you Tino for the screw! Perfect match.)  If I get this put together properly, the screw should be free to turn to lock mode to prevent my blaster from accidentally zapping innocent citizens of the Empire. 

IMG_6795_zps2ae09387.jpg

IMG_6796_zps3277abcc.jpg

 

 

Here are some more shots of the power cylinders with some details added. Wires & some soldering. - The solder would not part from the soldering iron so I had to just force it to drip off on my cutting mat and glue the spattered solder into place. I do not have much experience with soldering irons yet so maybe I was doing something wrong.Lots of flux spilling off and some burn marks but it gives it a realistic feel. This closeup isn't doing it much justice.

IMG_6797_zps60da849e.jpg

 

The wiring was not easy to install and keep in place so I drilled tiny holes & ran it through to the bottom, then formed them stick out on the front lip.

IMG_6798_zps5482cd89.jpg

 

 

For the back wires I had to color them with a permanent marker but when the soldering iron and the superglue came in contact of each other, it started to melt things a bit and the red coloring with the superglue turned orange. again the solder didn't want to stick so I had to glue some in places. 

IMG_6799_zps054dc2b9.jpg

IMG_6800_zps619246c5.jpg

 

I tried to make it look like Andy's braided wiring pattern but that was too difficult with the wiring I had. The braided wiring came from an old halogen bulb I saved from my previous SUV  fog lamp. It wanted to pay respects to that old work horse and keep one piece of it alive. :icon_beg: Rest in peace Pajero! :engel:

 

The dimensions for the Doopy power cylinders are a little bigger than Andy's cylinders (but not as wide across). It was a tough choice to match the parts in size  or use slightly larger parts to accommodate the Doopy cylinders. This is the best I can do with this and maybe another attempt will produce more accurate results. I will leave that challenge for another build. Once this is prime coated it will start to look a  lot better.

 

:) Up next I will add the selector switch once I get the final part need to make it work as planned. If I can fight off sleep tonight, I will have an update tomorrow! 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Beautiful modifications, Brian!  Never boring...loving the trigger mod, especially the way it's reinforced at the pivot.

 

Here's more gee-whiz gun knowledge (I only offer what I've learned to help further general understanding):

The "round head button-like thingy" is the trigger group retaining pin.  Basically, when the weapon is in service, the screw should be turned so the slot lines up with the LOCK position.  This prevents the pin from falling out.  When the slot is lined up with the FREE position, the pin can easily be pushed out (from the ball end), and this allows the trigger group/mechanism to be separated from the weapon (don't want your trigger falling out during battle, so LOCK 'EM!!!).  The selector switch in the "S" position prevents trigger action and accidental discharge.  I believe the selector switch letters stand for the following:  S = Safe, R = Repeating (single-shot/semi-automatic), A = Automatic.  I might be wrong on the 'R' - somebody please correct me or verify this...

 

The solder didn't stick because you would have to get the wires hot enough to melt the solder.  Getting the wires hot enough would have melted the resin.  I applaud your efforts.  No easy task, even on metal cylinders.  I assembled and soldered the rear resistors completely separate from the cylinders, then made two final solder connections to the central capacitors to attach the assembly.  After I was done soldering, I super glued all my braided sleeves to prevent fraying.  You've done a great justice to the Doopy cylinders.  With primer and paint, I think they'll look excellent.

 

I've had a resin selector switch mod in mind for several months, so I'm particularly looking forward to your next update.  Get some sleep, sir!!!

 

Aaron

Edited by usaeatt2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The handle is a separate piece from the  insides.

 

IMG_8596_zpsba876f3e.jpg

 

First you remove the LOCK/FREE pin by turning to free, then pushing it out by the rounded end and it will slide out completely.

 

Unfortunately I didn't get a good shot of the retaining pit out of the grip.

 

Once the pin is out, you unscrew the bottom bolt in the grip and the plastic handle will slid off like in the photo and with a little back and forth to get around the pins and supports inside the handle interior, the trigger group can be removed.

 

IMG_8598_zps975cd6ec.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Aaron and Derrek, thanks for sharing the workings of the Sterling grip and trigger assembly. Really cool to know these thing I as the build continues. I have a deeper appreciation for all the work that went into the making of this gun. Makes me want to buy a real one.

I know there is the sterling manual to view on this forum but you guys should create some fun "Sterling SMG for Dummies " visual guides. Then greenhorns like myself can quickly look up and correctly label parts in our posts without those "thingy" descriptions. Lol!

This is the best TK online course!

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I know prior to holding a real sterling, there were a lot of confusing and unknown things but after disassembling the sterling and really examining the internal workings, it really helps to understand how it all works. If the E11 is really an interesting thing, the only real option is to try and get a real one! As long as local gun laws are ok with it that is.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I know prior to holding a real sterling, there were a lot of confusing and unknown things but after disassembling the sterling and really examining the internal workings, it really helps to understand how it all works. If the E11 is really an interesting thing, the only real option is to try and get a real one! As long as local gun laws are ok with it that is.

:( No go in Japan for a real Sterling. I would certainly end up in prison for even trying to bring parts in the country from what I have heard. I will probably buy a parts set next year and keep that at my US address and dream of one day putting a metal pipe build together!

 

IMG_6804_zpsff576fc6.jpg

 

I got the idea of using headphone jacks to literally plug parts onto the blaster from The Original Stormtrooper blaster seen on the website. This was when I had no idea about that site and all the press about the guy who runs that. Well, the blaster has the magazine connect to the mag housing with a stereo jack. I thought this was an interesting idea so it stuck with me until I started this build. But I thought it would work well with parts that need to rotate yet stay in place. The selector switch was a perfect test for this idea so against the direct orders of usaeatt2 to get some slip, I battled sleep until the late hours drilling  and testing the stereo jacks on the selector switch and the FREE/LOCK pin. 

The FREE/LOCK pin can turn but I need to glue the female jack into position and then glue the retaining pin on the other side. 

 

Here you can see I drilled the hole for the female jack for the selector switch. The drill bit went a bit off course. The hole ended up a bit wider than I hoped for and a little off center from my indented mark. After a little further clearing out of the hole the female jack slid in nice and snug and almost perfectly flush with the metal surface. 

( :duim: when the selector switch base just covers the entire hole so its barely visible.)

IMG_6801_zpsea1e7e8b.jpg

IMG_6802_zps759688d4.jpg

 

 

Had to get some sleep so I didn't have time to glue the male stereo jack part to the selector switch. I mocked it up once and it fits like a charm. My only regret is that the placement is a millimeter or so leaving  a visible gap between the selector base and the the raised resin surface.

I first tried to drill out the hole needed to fit the male jack into the switch base on a Dday selector switch but it started to crack along the base walls. I am trying to repair it but it might not be salvageable. :icon_beg: Sorry Dday for messing that up. The price I pay for trying to work while half asleep. 

IMG_6803_zpsdce28238.jpg

 

:D The selector switch turns very smoothly and not too loose. I really wanted to add a switch that has locking positions when you turn it, (clicking switch). That would require more heavy resin surgery and better to try on my DVH kit. Once I get the jacks glued to all the pieces I will post more photos.

 

Next step will be sorting out the trigger spring. Looking into air gun parts for an easy to drop in solution. Something like this:

8lbnyspring_zpsaad48a90.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

.jpg]

 

:D The selector switch turns very smoothly and not too loose. I really wanted to add a switch that has locking positions when you turn it, (clicking switch).

Great idea using the headphone jacks Brian. I would really love the clicking into position switch aswell. I've got one idea, just not sure if I could pull it off...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I first tried to drill out the hole needed to fit the male jack into the switch base on a Dday selector switch but it started to crack along the base walls. I am trying to repair it but it might not be salvageable.  :icon_beg: Sorry Dday for messing that up. The price I pay for trying to work while half asleep. 

 

Was it because of bad resin, or a cast cast or just because? It looks like the sel switch from doopy carved out ok? The Onyx resin is supposed to have this crazy amount of hardness to it.

 

If it was the case that the resin seemed bad, let me know and I will of course replace it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Great idea using the headphone jacks Brian. I would really love the clicking into position switch aswell. I've got one idea, just not sure if I could pull it off...

 

I must give credit to the Original Stormtrooper e-11 for that idea. i just adopted it to a different use. The locking switch would have been cooler but then I would have to rip off the aluminum plate, carve out a suitable space to house the clicking dial and then try to cover it ll back up. I can still try this but it might just all go to hell in the process.

 

Looking forward to your idea Ian. You can certainly pull off whatever you are planning, just take lots of time out to choose you best way to attack it. I know that feeling of uncertainty all too well. Just go for it when you feel ready! Your build is top class so I am sure you can do it!

 

 

Was it because of bad resin, or a cast cast or just because? It looks like the sel switch from doopy carved out ok? The Onyx resin is supposed to have this crazy amount of hardness to it.

 

If it was the case that the resin seemed bad, let me know and I will of course replace it.

Hi Derrek, I am fully to blame for that. I must have used a bit too much pressure when I used the dremel sending tip. Plus my eyes were sleepy and its much harder to see how the resin is reacting because its black. The cracks show up easy on the tan resin but black resin is harder to notice sudden cracks. I think its still usable but there is slight bulging on one side from the base walls cracking apart.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

@bulldog44; fill it up with bondo and start again  :jc_doublethumbup:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Do you need a sight rail with the scope for the ANH version or is the DD kit got everything you need?

 

Doopy kits used to come with a really bad scope rail in resin, though i don't know if it's still the case as i haven't seen one in a while, certainly because no one uses it. If you plan to build a DD kit Sean, i wouldn't recommand you to use it, flat aluminium bars are easy to find, either locally or via vendors on this forum.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Doopy kits used to come with a really bad scope rail in resin, though i don't know if it's still the case as i haven't seen one in a while ... ... ...

 

My DoopyDoo's kit arrived 10 months ago and didn't have this scope rail any more, but a lot of additional parts for blaster building can be found on Derrek's list.

 

Sorry Brian, for hijacking this.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

×
×
  • Create New...