Jump to content
Bulldog44

Bulldog44 DD E-11Build

Recommended Posts

First you remove the LOCK/FREE pin by turning to free, then pushing it out by the rounded end and it will slide out completely.

 

Once the pin is out, you unscrew the bottom bolt in the grip and the plastic handle will slid off like in the photo and with a little back and forth to get around the pins and supports inside the handle interior, the trigger group can be removed.

 

After removing ONLY the trigger group retaining pin, you can remove the trigger group WITHOUT removing the grip.  I didn't realize it until I tried it...I was always taking the grip off first, but found out I didn't have to...

 

Are you sleeping, Brian?  Dying to see more updates!!!   ;)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Do you need a sight rail with the scope for the ANH version or is the DD kit got everything you need?

My doopy kit did not come with a scope rail. I will make one or if I get into trouble doing that, I will order one from Evilboy with the counter bracket attached. Looks pretty straight forward to making one though. Just a little practice and some grinding!

 

My DoopyDoo's kit arrived 10 months ago and didn't have this scope rail any more, but a lot of additional parts for blaster building can be found on Derrek's list.

 

Sorry Brian, for hijacking this.

No problem Tino. I am slow to respond to my own build posts so thanks for answering that for Sean.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

After removing ONLY the trigger group retaining pin, you can remove the trigger group WITHOUT removing the grip. I didn't realize it until I tried it...I was always taking the grip off first, but found out I didn't have to...

 

Are you sleeping, Brian? Dying to see more updates!!! ;)

I am hoping to sort of do the same thing when I get to my DVH kit assembled. I won't be able to remove the trigger group but at least I can remove the grip just for a fun effect. It will make painting easier too.

 

Sleep...........zzzzzzzzz.......

I am paying for my late night adventures. I kept passing out early the past two nights. Managed to get some needed epoxy work finished around the retaining pin, set the fake aluminium retaining pin in place and glued the FREE/LOCK pin jack port in place. I promised myself I will do at least one thing each night to keep the build on track.

 

Really want to finish the front sight block this weekend and then get working on the dovetail opening on the receiver to set it in. Sorry to keep you in suspense. My deadline for this build is quickly sneaking up on me. Hoping to apply for my TK status at the beginning of December. The pressure is on!

Edited by Bulldog44

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

One quick question if anyone can help, what type of rivets or fasteners are used on the folding stock for the stock handle (larger ones) and the ones that join the inner pipe to the main stock body? I want to replicate those to some extent but its hard to find anything like that in the hardware store. I tried to use some cap rivet parts to look like like those parts but it always looks a bit off.

If you have any suggestions please let me know. The Doopy rivet parts on my folding stock lack any detail of what they should look like. They bigger ones look like round blobs of resin and the smaller ones are not even distinguishable.

 

I am probably wasting time on small details but if I can improve it, then its worth a try.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I am hoping to sort of do the same thing when I get to my DVH kit assembled. I won't be able to remove the trigger group but at least I can remove the grip just for a fun effect. It will make painting easier too.

 

Sleep...........zzzzzzzzz.......

I am paying for my late night adventures. I kept passing out early the past two nights. Managed to get some needed epoxy work finished around the retaining pin, set the fake aluminium retaining pin in place and glued the FREE/LOCK pin jack port in place. I promised myself I will do at least one thing each night to keep the build on track.

 

Really want to finish the front sight block this weekend and then get working on the dovetail opening on the receiver to set it in. Sorry to keep you in suspense. My deadline for this build is quickly sneaking up on me. Hoping to apply for my TK status at the beginning of December. The pressure is on!

 

Don't rush. Remember, you don't need a blaster for TK approval - only EIB/Centurion.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

One quick question if anyone can help, what type of rivets or fasteners are used on the folding stock for the stock handle (larger ones) and the ones that join the inner pipe to the main stock body? I want to replicate those to some extent but its hard to find anything like that in the hardware store. I tried to use some cap rivet parts to look like like those parts but it always looks a bit off.

If you have any suggestions please let me know. The Doopy rivet parts on my folding stock lack any detail of what they should look like. They bigger ones look like round blobs of resin and the smaller ones are not even distinguishable.

 

I am probably wasting time on small details but if I can improve it, then its worth a try.

 

Those fasteners are really just pins with both ends expanded to hold them in place.  You could probably just get away with using a dremel and a small round bit to clean up the holes and maybe sharpen the end of a tube (homemade tool?) to define the outside edge.  Fasteners look exactly the same from both sides.

Here's some pictures: 

 

01DE5638-2DF3-436A-B76C-ACB8A8E2C230_zps

 

5AE8E7E0-C5E3-4D5E-A142-BC39C6DD6BA0_zps

Edited by usaeatt2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Don't rush. Remember, you don't need a blaster for TK approval - only EIB/Centurion.

Really? I thought I read that it was required. Now I feel like a fool. My mission this week will be to complete my armor then.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Those fasteners are really just pins with both ends expanded to hold them in place.  You could probably just get away with using a dremel and a small round bit to clean up the holes and maybe sharpen the end of a tube (homemade tool?) to define the outside edge.  Fasteners look exactly the same from both sides.

Here's some pictures: 

 

01DE5638-2DF3-436A-B76C-ACB8A8E2C230_zps

 

5AE8E7E0-C5E3-4D5E-A142-BC39C6DD6BA0_zps

Great photos of those fasteners! Thanks as always. I might try that tube idea. Let you know how it goes sometime this week.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Really? I thought I read that it was required. Now I feel like a fool. My mission this week will be to complete my armor then.

Yep, optional accessory in the CRL. Some countries don't allow blasters/imitation guns, full stop, so it's not mandatory for basic approval.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks again Ian, I don't how I missed the the big blck bold type that reads optional on the CRL. Stupid is as stupid does. All his time I could have applied for basic status. Better late than never I guess.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Not a direct update on my build but info on a nice new tool I recently picked up at the local hobby shop.

87c56ade879642c91681d63014354b99_zps7c21

 

I think this is the older version but it still works like a charm. If you need to cut very delicate straight lines or precisely trim some resin off a particular part, this tool does it. I used my exacto knife to score lines into my folding stock to add realism and highlight parts muddled by the casting process but could dig only so deep . With this little work horse, I was able to cut much deeper and straighter than before. :jc_doublethumbup: The cut is also very thin/narrow so you can get within a millimetre if you are careful  enough. Wish I found this earlier. 

 

  I will be relying on this to cut my resin counter in half and then use Aaron's drill bit method to hollow out the insides. Hoping to add some counter numbers, a backlight if possible and use the remaining hollow space to house batteries or a speaker. 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Great score on the saw, Brian!  :jc_doublethumbup:

Those blades look like mini Japanese saws...they usually cut on the backstroke, which, in my opinion, allows a lot more control.

It would make sense, since Tamiya is a Japanese company.  THAT'S going on the Christmas list.

 

Very cool idea to backlight the counter.  It's not canon, but I still like it.  Maybe red, so it doesn't throw off your night vision?

I wonder what red light looks like through stormtrooper green lenses? 

 

One note on my resin part "trimming" method, just in case others try it...  I used a Rotozip bit, which is designed to cut laterally.

A drill bit might work, but the cutting surfaces on a regular drill bit are only designed to cut vertically.

If you don't have a Rotozip bit, you might consider ordering one - the sideways cutting action is super smooth - like a router bit.

 

Trimming the counter should work REALLY well since all the sides are perfectly flat.

My magazine housing had a very slight warp to it, so I had to mind where I was trimming in relation to the warp.

 

EXCITED to see new developments!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the info on the bit. I just blindly used any bit I had to finish hollowing out the mag housing. lucky i didn't destroy it.  I will try to buy one of those rotozip bits.might be hard to find here but on the hunt tonight.

 

 I will have a more canon friendly counter too to keep it real. Just wanted to pimp some parts out for fun. Most likely I will not get that far. 

 

Glad you like the saw. Worth the cost and it will be a nice stocking stuffer.  :duim:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 

 

One note on my resin part "trimming" method, just in case others try it...  I used a Rotozip bit, which is designed to cut laterally.

A drill bit might work, but the cutting surfaces on a regular drill bit are only designed to cut vertically.

If you don't have a Rotozip bit, you might consider ordering one - the sideways cutting action is super smooth - like a router bit.

 

 

 

I just googled rotozip bits and I think strange enough I must have grabbed the only rotozip bit that came with my dremel set. I thought it was odd how the shavings flew off like tiny toothpicks instead of the normal fine dust. Does that sound correct? It did cut like butter and looks just like your bit used to drill out the mag housing. 

Strike of luck this time if so.  :D   If not, Amazon Japan sells them!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I just googled rotozip bits and I think strange enough I must have grabbed the only rotozip bit that came with my dremel set. I thought it was odd how the shavings flew off like tiny toothpicks instead of the normal fine dust. Does that sound correct? It did cut like butter and looks just like your bit used to drill out the mag housing. 

Strike of luck this time if so.  :D   If not, Amazon Japan sells them!

 

Yep, sounds like the right bit.  Thousands of tiny little white toothpicks spraying off the bit...  Here's a look under my drill press:

 

354B9172-5C9D-4E58-BEED-84EF8DF517CE_zps

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thats exactly how the shavings flew off. Strike of luck i picked that bit for the job. Even better, now I know what its called and how its used thanks to you! :duim:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Had a short chance last night to test the limits on my new mini saw and started by removing the number display face off my resin counter. The counter face is not perfectly flat so it sort of sinks in toward the number splay box. I wanted to keep the imprinted "Hengstler" logo so I opted not to sand the entire side flat. 

   I might cut the counter in half along the middle seam where the two parts meet. Then try and hollow out the insides, add some real counter digits / and clear display plus the reset button. If I can make enough space inside, I will try to use it as a battery holder or a speaker box. 

 

IMG_7007_zps9ad9fc2b.jpg

 

 

Next thing I tried the saw on was the end cap lock. I shouldn't have done this but my curiosity got the best of me. I was inspired to try this after I received a cool moveable end cap lock from Triumphmark. 

I thought if my little saw could surgically cut off one wall of the lock, I could carefully remove the inner see saw part without too much trouble. Well the saw bit off a little bit too much so I will need to use some epoxy to get the wall thickness back to normal. 

  So far I cut almost the whole side off of the lock.  Not a great picture to illustrated this but hope you can kind of see what I am trying to do:

IMG_7004_zps95a6bcf3.jpg

Edited by Bulldog44

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Amazing work with the saw Brian. I saw them down at the local hobby shop. Nearly double the price online, but by the time you add postage and the USD conversion..... I wonder if it'll improve my precision over my 5inch angle grinder?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Amazing work with the saw Brian. I saw them down at the local hobby shop. Nearly double the price online, but by the time you add postage and the USD conversion..... I wonder if it'll improve my precision over my 5inch angle grinder?

Stick with what works. The saw is not worth it if costs too much. I am just liking it cause I am not great at controlling my dremel well enough to do the same job. I have even thinner circular blades for the dremel and it cuts so quick and easy but I never get the cuts straight enough.

The saw is certainly not deadly accurate, just slow and easy to control.

 

Hobby shops are expensive. If its cheaper for me to send you one than prices near you., let me know. Happy to help.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey Brian,

 

As requested, here's a link to a 1:1 scale PDF of my Sterling Trigger Group:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/b7e8l87ufkiwz6t/Sterling%20SMG%20Trigger%20Group.pdf?dl=0

 

After making the PDF from a direct scan of the trigger group, I printed it (check the "actual size" option) and layed the part on top of the print.

Perfect alignment.  It's a paper copy of the real part!

 

71A5CDC1-3B3F-4FDC-9EA9-97B5AC919722_zps

 

9A78EBF5-303C-473B-8B29-98EC9933E65E_zps

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi brian the rear cap lock took me some time to do casting then cutting the casting again got them on one of my pipe builds look and feel pretty cool as on my deact just thought when making my doopys would be so cool if most of the moving parts moved like the real one limited with resin as to trooping and gravity. But for display and real look its up there with the deact.

Great build by the way trooper

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi brian the rear cap lock took me some time to do casting then cutting the casting again got them on one of my pipe builds look and feel pretty cool as on my deact just thought when making my doopys would be so cool if most of the moving parts moved like the real one limited with resin as to trooping and gravity. But for display and real look its up there with the deact.

Great build by the way trooper

 

Thanks Mark again for the lock! Great idea and think you can offer those up for sale too. I love the idea as well of having moving parts. Just adds the extra bit of realism. I may never actually own or even hold a real Sterling but with fun little mod like this, I can enjoy pretending!

Hoping not to disappoint on my build.  :salute:

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey Brian,

 

As requested, here's a link to a 1:1 scale PDF of my Sterling Trigger Group:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/b7e8l87ufkiwz6t/Sterling%20SMG%20Trigger%20Group.pdf?dl=0

 

After making the PDF from a direct scan of the trigger group, I printed it (check the "actual size" option) and layed the part on top of the print.

Perfect alignment.  It's a paper copy of the real part!

 

71A5CDC1-3B3F-4FDC-9EA9-97B5AC919722_zps

 

9A78EBF5-303C-473B-8B29-98EC9933E65E_zps

Aaron, again can't thank you enough. Thanks for going through all the time and trouble to make this template. Looks awesome! Going to see how I can use it tonight to get those additional circle marks next to the selector switch. This will be even more useful when I get to my DVH kit. I am glad you also putout there for others to use too. You are a legend!

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just picked this up yesterday at the dollar shop and thought it might be a cheap alternative to a rotary switch for the selector. The ruler parts can be trimmed off. The central circular part clicks nicely.    Its relatively small and flat (about 19 mm in diameter/ 5 mm thick). It would still require a good chunk of resin to get it into position but possible for sure. My only concern would be that the internal plastic part that locks the wheel would eventually wear down. Dollar store stuff is usually a dollar for a reason.

 

photo1_zpsef416ed3.jpg

 

I will be venturing into Tokyo this weekend and drop by some small shops that sell tons of switches and electronic parts. Hoping they have some smaller rotary switches that require less carving out of the grip area. Update you all if I find any.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

×
×
  • Create New...