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Elumusic

Albuquerque Storm Trooper Helmet Mold

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Seems like it would be worth doing a few proof of concept styrene pulls.  Less cost for you, more experience with your rig and greater potential for assistance from Walt with pictures of successful pulls.

 

Yeah, and can't wait to see the live casting process - my wife has been asking about femtroopers...  She's DD (and that's not Doopy Doos :) ), so I'll be curious how you do your molds.

I'm doing a "C/D" cup casting.  Finding a middle point that might work for both but doesn't look "top heavy".  

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It has been said before and i am trying to help...don't use the abs yet..you will just toss 61 bucks out.

my sheets are ready anytime

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I'm doing a "C/D" cup casting.  Finding a middle point that might work for both but doesn't look "top heavy".  

 

I heartily agree with going the styrene route until you've got the technique and routine down. It will save you a lot of money. You don't paint on the best canvas with the most expensive paints when you're a beginner just geting your brush wet. You work your way up and the better you get, the better your materials get. Or, like you don't go out and buy that $4000 Fender until you've put in the hours on your $100 axe from the pawn shop.

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Ok...I bought a sheet of HIPS to try out.  Pressure is on.

 

NICE!  How did the femtrooper casting go last weekend?

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NICE!  How did the femtrooper casting go last weekend?

I started with a face casting this weekend for my wife who is going to do some "day of the dead masks".  She needed a face mold and I needed to try something smaller before I got myself in trouble with a full bust...

 

Here are a couple pics.  Nothing fancy about this.  I used some prosthetic grade Alginate and some plaster bandages to hold the Alginate steady while I poured the plaster into the mod.  I got two face molds out of it before it disintegrated.   So hopefully time permitting and health permitting (i have a man cold)  I will put the bust into motion.

 

14044105297_5ceca9938b_z.jpg

 

14227385611_19b3a517c0_z.jpg

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I actually finished the heating table as well.  Here are the post positions located on the Hardibacker.  I did an Ohm calculation but it wasn't getting hot enough.  So I started shortening the length of the coils until I could get 400 degrees F out of the table on a single 20A/1P circuit.  ABS melts at about 320 degrees F.  So it only has to sit on the oven for about 4 or 5 minutes before it starts to sag.  Walt....can you tell me how long before it starts to burn and bubble?  

 

14044068150_1b447f21ab_z.jpg

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So a few weeks ago I found an NE helmet and armor kit on eBay.  It was black NE armor with all the papers being sold by a guy who was getting rid of some of his collection for cash.  The suite was still in the box.  I had been asked by a few people if my build was to scale to which I really didn't know because I had nothing to compare it to.  And since I want to build an entire suite I felt I needed some practice and hands on knowledge of all the parts and pieces I will be creating and I want my stuff to be to scale.  I had asked other armor makers to see if I could get my hands on an actual kit, but everyone is months and months out.  I really don't have months to do this, I need to get something going sooner than later.  So unfortunately I freaked out a little and purchased the ebay suite for $540.  Don't know if it was a good or bad deal.  My thought on this was if I am going to create something of my own there is no better way than seeing an acceptable suite in person, being able to touch it and see how the materials were formed.  And from what I read, the NE armor is widely acceptable by the 501st.  So right after I use it to compare my pepikura models and sculpts I intend to build the NE armor for my own personal use.  So far I have my son and graphics partner willing to put in some time on the paper models and or wood based models depending on what they can do.   We have a plan.

 

So what I don't like about the NE armor is the three piece helmet design because, bottom line is a three piece helmet is not screen accurate and seems like a huge pain to build, but I am ecstatic about the fact that my pepikura helmet is nuts on as far as scale and shape.  Besides mine being symmetrical, it is exactly the same size and scale.  I will post pictures as I build the NE helmet in a separate thread.  It should be interesting.

 

14044361098_30b567becd_n.jpg

Edited by Elumusic

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Just for your information, this armor isn't a NE. It's an AM, which i believe is scaled for larger people.

This is good to know.  So what proportions should I be aware of.  Besides the depth of these pieces which I kinda figured is over the top.  

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AM armor is not screen accurate in shape or style.  it's based upon the fx fan sculpted kit.

just like your stuff this is a representation of fan based artwork.

 

RSProps or ATA AP are based upon actual versions of suits.

recasting was not used to create FX or AM aror.

 

but NE is an RSProps recast and not approved oN FISD.

 

:smiley-sw013: :smiley-sw013:

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All good information.  Vern...you are all over the ins and outs of these kits and I appreciate all the input.  The only reason for this AM armor is to make sure I have basic details in view.  I'd love to know which details to avoid.  To me some of the suits look the same.  So I suppose I should take each piece out of the box and inspect it against the film stills and take some notes.  I did notice that it appears to go together a little differently than other fan sculpts.  But I have seen many people mod the AM armor to fit small framed people and it looks great.  But I am not the expert, far from it.  So I'm asking for body proportions vs the AM kit.  The AM ABS suit is a super deep draw, but is it also an oversized sculpt?  If I use it as a visual reference is it going to screw me up as long as I keep in mind that mine will be no where as deep?  Give me some advise guys.

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Well first your question from a few posts ago...abs sag..time, it is different with one sheet to an other and one thickness to an other...this is the trial and error that comes with this game..once you get fown with the styrene then move on to abs..heaters and dustance from heaters will come in to play also what you are forming ..fir example..arms with .070 abs i will heat for 3 minutes and 17 seconds then drop down about 2 inches for 30 seconds to really get the edgs..the other way i do it and not recommend. i run my fingeacross the hit plastic if i burn myself its ready..lol.

2ed..buying a kit so you can see how it will work...for the birds...the bucks look nothing like the peice you cut off...if your going to recast it get a good set..like TM i woulx recast him in a second...kidding paul..now thats why he wont give me a set..lol..ya AM kits not a good base..it really is just easer to make them your self..and the molds will look different becouse the AM set is an overlap build not a butt jount..um what else was there....oh..super deep draw..it is 3mm abs hard stuff ..i think the tallest buck i have is the cap....my guess when you get there..you will have a lot of questions..... you'll see:-)

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You shouldn't of gotten AM armor, the Shoulders, chest, back, and helmet are waaaay too large and off from the original suits. I can think of 2 other armor makers than have screen lineage armor that are usually ready to go, CAP-W and MTK. They always put armor up on ebay. If you have inaccurate armor as a base you'll only make yours less accurate.

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Hi Cristian,  I think that being accurate to the film is not exactly what I want.  I more want symmetry.  And I know you are correct about the shoulders, chest and back are way off, but knowing that now, I can proceed with a new sculpt.  I like the butt joints on the AM armor and I like a lot of other things about the AM armor.  I also like that the AM armor can be modified for small, tall and large people,  so for now, I am going to finish up this helmet mold I started and get my first pull done and put together and than start with the costume molds.  I will create something a little different than other people have done, and I will make sure that it can be modified to be acceptable to the 501st.  But my first concern is the art pieces I intend to do with it.  That's what started this whole thread.  I'm just waiting on the HIPS sheets to come in from Grainger and I will pick it up and test my mold.  

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Have you tried looking locally for the hips?...granger is a bit on the high side...not to bad but if you can find a plastic company close to you i find if you talk to them ,some get really excited about what you are trying to do......my guy found a place that did a spical order of shiny black and had a bunch left over and i can get that on demand....it seem if they love star wars then they will go out of there way to find it....just a thought

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Just adding my .02...

 

HIPS is pretty strong and durable and SUPER easy to find. Of course it's not glossy so not good if your going for a shiny TK. I have been using HIPS for my X-Wing chest boxes for a few years on two home made vac tables and it has not failed me yet. I wanted to do the helmet in ABS, but alas, finding S/S ABS is like looking for a Unicorn on Mars!!!!! I have a friend who bought a pallet of it and would be willing to sell me some sheets, but I realized I am not ready for ABS just yet.

 

I am kind of lucky as I have two huge plastic distributors within miles of my office so I can get it no problem, and they usually cut it for me for free since I buy a few sheets at a time. My smaller vac table is a odd size since the frame is designed to fit in my oven :)

 

Anyway....

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Have you tried looking locally for the hips?...granger is a bit on the high side...not to bad but if you can find a plastic company close to you i find if you talk to them ,some get really excited about what you are trying to do......my guy found a place that did a spical order of shiny black and had a bunch left over and i can get that on demand....it seem if they love star wars then they will go out of there way to find it....just a thought

I hit up the only local plastic supply place here, Port Plastics.  They were not at all helpfull.  Too busy to even think about trying to get me a deal on some plastic.  They wouldnt get me a partial and only wanted me to buy a full flat and pay all the shipping.  At that point I might as well just go to Grainger.  Yup, it was a little pricey but this is my experimental stage.  The only other place would be to call Denver and get a shipment delivered to the local Reprographics shop.  But they didn't have HIPS at the time and I didn't want to keep waiting.  You would think that Albuquerque would be a place where you could get things like this....but not so much.  I have always had to order materials on line, software, hardware, etc.  Albuquerque is a really big "small" town.  It's frustrating.

 

Anyway, the HIPS is supposed to be here today and I will try a few more pulls this weekend and hope it goes well.

Edited by Elumusic

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I know this clearly is not local for you, but these guys ALWAYS have HIPS on hand. It's where I get most of my HIPS when I need it, and I am less than 1/2 mile from there. And if you spend more than $50.00 I think, they will cut it for you for free to whatever size you need. Would also cost less to ship it cut down anyway.

 

http://www.ocip.com/

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The HIPS shipment was delayed to Grainger by a week...finally got it yesterday.  Two weeks to wait for a piece of plastic that came from one state over.  pfffft.  I'll definitely hit up your guys Gary!!!  I got .093 HIPS because the draw on the mold is almost 12".  I hope it works.  I will cut the sheet down into 24"x24" squares either tonight or tomorrow night so it fits onto my table.  

 

I have had nothing but issues to deal with for the past two weeks not to mention I have had a sinus infection for 6 weeks.  OMG!!!  I couldn't take it any more and finally got antibiotics yesterday.  Our business partner is quitting.  We own a fairly well known donut shop (It's been on the food network).  My wife and I had to stop everything and pick up the financial pieces and get information to the lawyer to finish up the paperwork, we put a new computer together to get down to our second shop to do financials, Computer problems at the house, Comcast stopped supporting our cable modem.  One day it was working fine and the next they said it was at it's end of life and stopped supporting it and no more internet until I spent another $130 for a new modem.   (I hate Comcast) Still need to hook it all up and I have a recording session this Friday.  I tell you guys...nothing but issues.   Hopefully Saturday calms the heck down.  

 

That's my rant....

Edited by Elumusic

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Elumusic, I am pretty sure the OCIP guys will cut it down to 24x24 for free, depending how much you buy, I think it is $50.00 or more. That will also cost you less in shipping than full sheets. There is another place super close to me I have used in the past that also cut it for me for free cause I spent over $100.00, and they cut it for my odd sized frame that I use to fit in my oven. They to seem to always have HIPS and Sintra, or Comatex, same thing, on hand.

 

http://www.iplasticsupply.com/

 

I have not bought enough from either to say "Tell'em Gary sent ya", but have had good luck with both. It's worth a call to find out what the freight would be and price wise I thinkmost are the same. I have never bought from Grainger though....

 

Good luck with that sinus infection. Don't mess around with that business!!!

 

And yes, Comcast sucks!!!

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So...here's an update.   I am doing all my pulls outside and the wind gusts were around 50 mph on Saturday.  Sunday wind gusts were around 30 mph.  The wind wicks into the oven and keeps the heater from heating evenly.  This weekend was a no go.  I did get the sheet cut down to 24"x24".  I swear this will happen as soon as the weather and my life decides to cooperate.  haha.

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