Stormy1992 Posted May 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 23, 2014 Also ill get some elastic. how is the strap attached to the shoulder bell that wraps around the bicep? could it just be glued? or velcro? snaps? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich330[TK] Posted May 23, 2014 Report Share Posted May 23, 2014 Arms look much better. The shoulder bell strap is just glued at both ends inside the shoulder bell. There is no real need to fill the gap on your thigh armour. There were probably plenty of suits with little gaps like that. If it bugs you, and it's difficult to take the part apart and re-align it, you can certainly fill that with some paste and sand it flat when it's dry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stormy1992 Posted May 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 23, 2014 sweet! thanks!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stormy1992 Posted May 27, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 27, 2014 (edited) Alright, i made some clips replaced the nylon with elastic, and this is how it turned out! Also, i closed the back of the left Thigh, and im about to put the back cover strip on the right thigh! Questions! When cutting the ammo knee pack, what size rivets? and like the belt was 1 and a half inch from the last ammo pack to the edge, is there a limit with the knee pack? i know it has to be curved edges however. Thanks! Edited May 27, 2014 by Stormy1992 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The5thHorseman[TK] Posted May 27, 2014 Report Share Posted May 27, 2014 (edited) Rivets head should be around 7mm (9/32"). And rivets should be CAP rivets for accuracy. The ammo pack ends shouldn't extend beyond the back/bottom corners of the thighs on both sides: Edited May 29, 2014 by The5thHorseman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stormy1992 Posted May 27, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 27, 2014 alright, i looked high and low for these rivets.. Lowes, Home Depot, Mendards, Joanns no luck.. they have brads.. ugh know a place i can get some? also, the rivets for the chest ab kidney plates.. what to get there? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The5thHorseman[TK] Posted May 27, 2014 Report Share Posted May 27, 2014 http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/23970-fs-centurion-level-rivet-sets/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stormy1992 Posted May 27, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 27, 2014 Thighs Complete aside from ammo pack and clearcoat. I did a test fit for the crotch plate and these, something will need trimming.. should i trim the insides of the thighs, or off the crotch plate? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stormy1992 Posted May 27, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 27, 2014 Also, I kept a little gap in between the sides of the armor under the cover strip because the CRL shows a slight gap. And seems to be common, so did it to both legs front and back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gep Posted May 28, 2014 Report Share Posted May 28, 2014 If you are still looking for rivets, try Rural King if there's one near you. They usually have a really decent selection Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stormy1992 Posted May 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 28, 2014 Thank you Bryan! I'll look it up:) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gep Posted May 28, 2014 Report Share Posted May 28, 2014 Kyle, on your boots, I would steer you away from the method you used on your first attempt at painting. The gloss and excessive peeling at the wrinkle points are a little much. There was a fair bit of overspray on the sole as I recall. If you use a regular rattlecan, the stuff may never dry. I believe tkboots is still selling, but there's a wait. If you do go with painting, look into a fabric or flexible type paint (acrylics may work or Krylon H2O series if they still make it) or actual leather dye/paint from Tandy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stormy1992 Posted May 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 28, 2014 The boots I cleared with a couple guys on FISD. the issue with my last pair is they where a rubbery material, so the paint would indeed flake. I ordered black bass Amsterdam's that are approved. I will sand this pair down as needed for paint to stick where as my last pair I did not. I'm sure this pair will be better:) and plus.. Movies they painted them white. Also I'm not using a rattle can, not gloss, but an actual leather dye/paint. I got it this time Bryan! Thanks for the info however! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stormy1992 Posted May 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 28, 2014 TEST FIT For the Ammo pack placement before rivets.. i though this was really good considering the ammo pack is slightly to the right of the cover strip, the sides are rounded, dont go bast the back lip and is even with the trim of the armor. thoughts?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stormy1992 Posted May 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 28, 2014 Also put the front of the shins together today. (waiting for the back part mesurments once the boots come in next week) having some issues with the sniper plate.. cant seem to find a good cut.. i trimmed a little off but im not sure about this in general, so a little help would be great! Shown here are some renforcements i put in the back to prefent snapping if any at all, seriously though this glue.. wont let go. but just in case! right side.. Left side front And for the record. i used 15mm cover strips for arms, 20mm for thigh front and back, and the shin fronts are 22mm, havent made the backs yet. I know i have alot of questions. but i would love an answer thanks guys!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stormy1992 Posted May 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 28, 2014 (edited) Also if someone can supply me with how to strap this armor together with rivets and such that would be great. i dont know the first thing of an accurate strapping system.. i see snaps, rivets, etc and i dont know whats acceptable for EIB. Edited May 28, 2014 by Stormy1992 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I'm Batman[501st] Posted May 28, 2014 Report Share Posted May 28, 2014 The boots I cleared with a couple guys on FISD. the issue with my last pair is they where a rubbery material, so the paint would indeed flake. I ordered black bass Amsterdam's that are approved. I will sand this pair down as needed for paint to stick where as my last pair I did not. I'm sure this pair will be better:) and plus.. Movies they painted them white. Also I'm not using a rattle can, not gloss, but an actual leather dye/paint. I got it this time Bryan! Thanks for the info however! Check my thread on painting boots. Mine are a rubber based boot and so far the vinyl spray seems to be doing well. After each coat I did a bend test and no cracks. A bit early to test against armor scrubbing, so I won't guarantee yet... http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/27403-another-boot-thread-but-with-spray-paint/ Regarding the snaps/straps/rivets - there is no right or wrong way for EIB/Centurion. Which ever method you prefer. Check out all the other build threads and EIB/Centurion threads to see how others have done it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stormy1992 Posted May 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 28, 2014 oh okay! i thought there was a specific way to strap. just where the rivets and such go? and alright there is a boot thread that im following and the guy scrubbed his down. and used leather die/paint. but ill look into yours! thank you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SCTrooper[TK] Posted May 28, 2014 Report Share Posted May 28, 2014 The thigh pack looks good, but trim more of the edge of the boxes. The knee plate... I wouldn't trim anything off the thighs or cod until you strap more of the armor together. The thighs have a nice shape to them and shouldn't have to be trimmed unless you are really small. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I'm Batman[501st] Posted May 28, 2014 Report Share Posted May 28, 2014 oh okay! i thought there was a specific way to strap. just where the rivets and such go? and alright there is a boot thread that im following and the guy scrubbed his down. and used leather die/paint. but ill look into yours! thank you! There is specific placement where the side rivets go, etc - the visible ones. Sorry can't search at work, but yes there are specifics there. The actual strapping - no. Anything that is not visible doesn't have a set requirement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stormy1992 Posted May 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 28, 2014 thanks for the reply and alright ill keep searching, however i have been and have some photo referneces but additional is always best Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stormy1992 Posted May 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 28, 2014 the bare bones. coming together. time for clear coat and snaps rivets etc.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gep Posted May 29, 2014 Report Share Posted May 29, 2014 Also if someone can supply me with how to strap this armor together with rivets and such that would be great. i dont know the first thing of an accurate strapping system.. i see snaps, rivets, etc and i dont know whats acceptable for EIB. You are actually asking 2 questions here. Do you want to know where to put rivets and snaps for EIB/Centurion, or are you wanting to know how to do a snap harness system? A lot of people use snaps (get the good ones at Lowes or Home Depot, not the Wal Mart junk, they hold better) I used a method very similar to the one here: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/19265-another-am-armor-buildam/page-4 All you need are a bunch of good snaps, some nylon straps (Wal Mart has this in the craft section), and snap plates made from sign plastic, and some E6000 to glue them down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gazmosis[501st] Posted May 29, 2014 Report Share Posted May 29, 2014 There are no requirements for how to hold the armor together from the inside. Look at the EIB threads to get an idea of the approach you want to take because every application includes a shot of their interior strapping. Now if you go for Centurion, the standards change greatly. I would decide which route you want to go because if you build for Centurion first, you will pass EIB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stormy1992 Posted May 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 29, 2014 Thank you! No I do understand. I just thougt it had to be put together with the brackets that attach to the lips on the armor. I used snaps last time and they worked well enough for me. I'll just do it again. but Bryan also yes, where the rivets go and how the attach to the inside elastics Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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