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TK-6818 Requesting ANH Stunt Centurion Status[51][AP*]


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I wear AP myself. It is p.i.t.a. I know and i changed the part already but its in my opinion not done with "the part is like it is , so whst can i do"

Go the extra mile. Earn centurion status.

I was never and will never get angry with anybody cause i like to help and keep standarts high.

Were all in the same boat.

Tricky to read tone out of a text right!

Dr.

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I wear AP myself. It is p.i.t.a. I know and i changed the part already but its in my opinion not done with "the part is like it is , so whst can i do"

Go the extra mile. Earn centurion status.

I was never and will never get angry with anybody cause i like to help and keep standarts high.

Were all in the same boat.

Tricky to read tone out of a text right!

Dr.

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+1

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I still must disagree. If you move the other side, which is already in line, then that side will sit low and then you have the same issue just with the other side. It almost seems like it is unfixable without a differenct sniper plate. But I am not the officer here, Mathias is. As you wish, sir! :salute:

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I still must disagree. If you move the other side, which is already in line, then that side will sit low and then you have the same issue just with the other side. It almost seems like it is unfixable without a differenct sniper plate. But I am not the officer here, Mathias is. As you wish, sir! :salute:

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I totally agree, as I said before I had the same problem,the sniper plate wouldn't line up straight.So what I did was glue the centre 1st the force the sides into position.

the only pic I have gluing the knee sorry.

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PA230138.jpgPA260148.jpg

Edited by DudeSidious
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Wayne seems to have the best idea for getting it to sit right. I was just going off of what i see and what Ingrid said. However, I am no expert on AP as I don't wear it but it seems you are all on point with this particular issue, so I'll humbly stand down. :icon_bow:

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Obviously you'd move both sides of the knee plate an equal distance, thus it'd would still sit straight.

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It ain't going to be flush on both sides, or its going to be crooked. It's off by about 5mm and it's not going to be "forced" without cracking (it's already cracked.) Maybe it's better to be "too low" on the inside and flush on the more visible outside?

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This is why i riveted the f@*@*!*er in the first place. :D

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I need a beer. :pint1: :pint1: :pint1: :pint1: :pint1: :pint1: :pint1: :pint1: Or two.

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Last resort: I have an AM sniper plate I could put on that MIGHT work...........

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Thanks for your support, Tyler! :D

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Since I have to do something evil to my sniper plate, I might as well upgrade my six side-rivets as well. Anything else while I'm at it? Anything super critical, I mean? It's not like I'll ever stop tweaking this suit to be more perfect until it's retired to sandy or death.

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Unfortunately I am rivet challenged. I have some gorgeous flat jean rivets that I think would look fantastic (and shiny if I didn't paint them - I like shiny). Other suggestions that won't take a week or cost a fortune would be helpful. They're something like this. I currently have something in there that's more rounded (cap-like?). I don't know enough about all this rivet mumbo jumbo - good thing I like to learn as I go.

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Clipboard01.jpg

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I used brass paper clip thingys that are around 8mm in diameter with a dab of hot glue behind it.

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Get ye to staple's max stat.

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Or you could go to ace hardware and pick up some split rivets and washers.

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Aloha,

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-Eric

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Like i said i changed mine aswell cause it was real pain.

Have now a slight colorissue but till now no one realized.

Its the AP drawback.

Sorry for giving you such hassle.

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Use split rivets onegaishimasu! They are the screen accurate that way! Yours look correct already, from my angle, with no need for an upgrade???

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Using split rivets is easy. All you need is a screwdriver and a pair of pliers (unless you have the special setting tool). Place the screwdriver shaft horizontally between the rivet legs and use the pliers to grip the rivet with one half of the jaws, and the screwdriver shaft with the other. Squeeze. Once the screwdriver shaft as spread the legs open a little bit more than before, you can take away the screwdriver and just work with the pliers on the rivet legs spreading them completely flat against the surface. Also be sure to have a washer on the inside before you start spreading the legs of the rivet.

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Cap rivets are even easier. They come in two halves. One cap and one shaft. The shaft goes through the hole you make beforehand, then you put the cap on top of the shaft. It even stays put by itself. Then you put something hard underneath the bottom of the shaft half and start beating the cap with a hammer. That makes the shaft sort of collapse inside of the hollow cap forming a strong locking mechanism at the same time as the shaft grows shorter and the two parts you want riveted together sit tighter and secure.

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I used brass paper clip thingys that are around 8mm in diameter with a dab of hot glue behind it.

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Get ye to staple's max stat.

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Or you could go to ace hardware and pick up some split rivets and washers.

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Aloha,

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-Eric

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I used the office depot brass paperclips for my cod rivet. the ones on the left side I got from Trooperbay and installed using Locitus' method above. Of course I made the mistake of painting them first, which didn't fare so well when the pliers came out :) . Keep it up - you're almost there!

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I would like to give heads up that I would like to ban usage of brads because they are not accurate and look so cheap. If things go my way that is. It'll more likely be a vote on the matter.

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Cap and split rivets are very cheap. The TK-related websites that sell them have a huge markup.

See

http://www.ebay.com/...=item1e624d729a ƂĀ£2.95 for 100 split rivets

http://www.ebay.com/...984.m1439.l2649 $2.19 for 50 cap rivets

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There's no reason apart from not knowing any better not to have the accurate hardware.

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Cap and split rivets are very cheap. The TK-related websites that sell them have a huge markup.

See

http://www.ebay.com/...=item1e624d729a ƂĀ£2.95 for 100 split rivets

http://www.ebay.com/...984.m1439.l2649 $2.19 for 50 cap rivets

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There's no reason apart from not knowing any better not to have the accurate hardware.

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That is something I'll be changing on my armor - it didn't even occur to me to look for those @ Tandy leather when I was buying snaps. Thanks!

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Other suggestions that won't take a week or cost a fortune would be helpful.

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Here is her criteria I used for recommending brass paper clip brads things :) But Ace Hardware split rivets quality for cheap and easily sourced too.

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There are about 3 or 4 other things for centurions that I think should come ahead of insisting on split rivets over brads... but we can take the gloves off in another forum about that :)

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Aloha,

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-Eric

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The cap rivets from the ebay site M listed above are pretty much exactly what i have, so YAY on that one!

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I currently have paper brads in there. M said the other day it feels cheap, and I don't want my Centurion to feel cheap, so I definitely want to do the easy swap on those. (That's the only place.)

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My knee gap bondo is dry and needs sanding, but that's almost looking good.

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My sniper plate is curing in a new position. It's crooked, and if you don't like it, bite me. ("Feisty" is my other handle.)

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I was considering changing my holster rivets to the screw-in kind (posts?) so I can use the same holster for my Navy Trooper NCO. Is that all right? (I could get another holster but probably not before I leave.)

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So, Eric, what are those "3 or 4 other things for centurions" that you would recommend? I don't guarantee I can hit them by the time this baby is packed and loaded for CVI transport on Friday, but like I said, I'll always be tweaking.

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I was considering changing my holster rivets to the screw-in kind (posts?) so I can use the same holster for my Navy Trooper NCO. Is that all right? (I could get another holster but probably not before I leave.)

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Chicago screws. Or you could pop rivet in some snaps the way Terry does his snap plates. That would look way better than chicago screws.

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It's a Billhag technique:

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Holsterattatchment.jpg

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Holsterattatchment2.jpg

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So, Eric, what are those "3 or 4 other things for centurions" that you would recommend? I don't guarantee I can hit them by the time this baby is packed and loaded for CVI transport on Friday, but like I said, I'll always be tweaking.

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Oh I was talking about things to tighten up the Centurion requirements that the detachment would need to vote on. You probably have hit the mark on most... or be grandmothered in if we changed them. More on that discussion another day.

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-Eric

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I have side split rivets I can give you. PM me if you want me to mail them or I can give them to you in person next week. :dancing-trooper:

That's the spirit! :)

I've given away lots of split rivets in my garrison as well. They're so cheap when you buy them in bulk that there's no reason not to.

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