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501st Stormtrooper[TK]
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Everything posted by LadyInWhite

  1. YAYYAAYAYAY to Phasma TLJ. While I work on that I need a new ANH or ESB TK. My poor old lady is not fit for duty << Where are those repair droids when you need them!? >> I'm half tempted to do a FO TK but I'm sorry, the OT TKs are still my first love and the most comfortable and versatile!
  2. After seeing pretty much every TK in the entire Star Wars universe bite the big one on screen, I felt like I needed to come here and give my long lost brothers and sisters a HUG. Actually I guess I'm the one who is Long Lost! Mama TK says Hi, sends her love, and hopes you all have wonderful holidays, winter break, or whatever you're up to. Also I'll be in NYC for a while between Xmas and NYE if anyone wants to get coffee or otherwise break up the New York Monotony. (That ought to get me some outings, right? "I'll show you!") I'm a California native, what do you want? STAY SAFE, and keep your blaster at your side! Ingrid
  3. Hello, Everyone -- I am so sorry for being absent and not answering anyone's questions. This teacher didn't get much of a summer off or any kind of break! I'm going to start transferring and archiving information from our Captain Phasma Costumers facebook group to here for long-term reference, but for the most part that's where most of the build answers including vendors are. I'll work with the team here to get things updated if they haven't already. See, I don't even know! Bad Captain! Anyway, I think my mailbox is useful again, so feel free to PM me, though it's WAY easier to find me on Facebook or email.
  4. Jennifer was one of the first people I met on FISD, and was, and will always be, my "build buddy." Her encouragement and advice were always given with grace, enthusiasm, passion, and humor. I would never have guessed, even having experienced major depression myself, that she was suffering. Jenny, I love you, and may there be endless trooping and a demand for your cheer and kindness in the Empire Beyond. Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
  5. Apologies for the late replies! I am not a fan of fiberglass so I'm glad I have light ABS plastic armor. The parts I have from Shawn are fine, though. CRL is in progress, mostly done... my bad... need to send in photos. The new LMO, or whatever his role is, is being a total jerk about it. (KIDDING!)
  6. There is nothing wrong with a male Phasma, any moreso than a female playing Vader. Just be true to the character and that's what matters
  7. I'm not sure if plastidip will hold the shape for the gaskets once you remove the mold, but its a thought.<br><br> As for the shape, I was going to use any ribbed or corrugated item, make a negative mold of it, and cut to shape (mostly rectangle anyway). But I'm still a ways away from that solution.
  8. Hi, Francisco! Which material, the plastic armor parts or the cape, or the black gaskets in the joints? Armor/Plastic = vacuum formed ABS, some fiberglass, styrene could work. Cape = cotton canvas is preferable. Joints/Gaskets = the original suits from Anovos are true rubber, but others are making them out of Lycra / Spandex (bathing suit) material, or other materials, including latex. I hope that answers your question! Gloves are just plain leather driving gloves I got from a street vendor in NYC for $10. I may switch to neoprene which fits more snugly and will not constrict my fingers as much when I wear the finger armor, and I'll just glue those on or something. I will say, though, that the neoprene is hard to get on/off if the fingers are glued on! Maybe I'll glue all but the middle and index finger, and just leave those end pieces as velcro so they don't fall off. My pinkies tend to fly away - they will be glued. The cape drop cloth is heavy but flowy, it falls nicely even though I can't find the nap. So who knows, I may have it all wrong. I spray-painted it because it would not take the dye, TWICE, two different types. Sigh. So it is actually a very stiff potato chip right now... I hope to remake it. I am going to get black fabric next time. For the CRL the cape is the only part I put a complete Level 1 and Level 2. The reason for this is to show that there are a lot more details on the cape to achieve, for those who go nuts, like me, but that a simpler version should be acceptable. I am 99.999% certain that not one fan in the universe who is not analyzing the costume to build it will ever notice that she has four pockets, three seams, a rubberized backing on the outside, etc. etc. So I also did not specify that canvas should be required at Level 1, leaving some flexibility for builders. We shall see what our illustrious (gorgeous, sweet, wonderful, awesome...) DL and the LMO etc. say about that, as it's not up to me! My husband and I are working on a latex paint solution but until then, you can get some shiny black (stretchy like lycra/spandex) material and just sew lots and lots of rows of tubes. I suggest sewing the folds first and inserting the actual piping material (cotton rope, or foam, or whatever) later. That's what I'll be working on this week... maybe a new build thread is in order! Never! Shiny white is my first love
  9. Thanks so much for your input, Bobby!!! In the final version I submitted to Eric recently, I definitely did not specify what materials can or can't be used. I just left it at "reflective silver or chrome in color" because if you can achieve that with a spraypaint, why not? Just not the foggy dull gray kind that claims to be chrome, like the Krylon crap I tried. I also removed that specification from the hand armor and fingers because they seem to be duller in most photos. I can't argue what you say about Vaders - I am used to working with ROTJ vaders and an ESB vader and I am always polishing and wiping their dang armor! My point was mainly that a flat plastic black isn't going to be the same as the satiny or shiny look. I do agree with your cape suggestion, I tripped over my own cape and I would not be surprised if this is what happened to that poor chap wearing Phasma in the 2016 Rose Parade. What if we said "near floor length" which leaves it up to the wearer whether they want it below, at, or just slightly above the heel?
  10. Here are my latest thoughts on the cape. PROPOSED CRL Wording - Level 1 The cape is black and crosses the chest diagonally from the top of the right shoulder to the left elbow, wrapping around to connect again at the top of the right shoulder. All seams except the front red seam are two parallel straight-stitches, approximately 3/8”-1/2" apart, including pockets, hem, and the borders of the straps. The front seam across the chest is two parallel straight stitches, approximately ~1” (~2.5cm) apart. A red stripe is painted along the entire front seam on the top/visible side only, within the parallel seams. The hem reaches the floor by the left foot, and crosses diagonally upward toward just below the back of the right knee. The cape gathers into folds behind the right shoulder. The hem of these folds increases in height, creating a zig-zag look. No clasp or buckle is visible on the right shoulder or elsewhere. The outside of the cape has a light sheen to it. Light wear-and-tear and weathering is permitted. Level 2 Details Cape is 3 panels, with seams on either side of the back plate. Four assymetrical pockets are present on the left panel; the top one overlaps the seam. They are in the pattern 1-2-1 from top to bottom. The top pocket is approximately even with the bicep. The pocket size is around 8” tall and 5” wide, but vary because they are not identical. Two ~1.25”-wide (~3cm) straps extend from inside the hem of the left panel at hand-level. One ~1”-wide strap extends from under the side of the bottom pocket. The cape is coated on the outside in a thin rubber-like medium. The fabric is cotton canvas with a diagonal weave visible in the medium. A black ~1-1.5”-wide strap extends from the top of the right shoulder down the back. Now I might need to do some more research into the exact measurements of everything but they will serve as approximations at this time. (Eg. a 2-inch strap or too wide a red stripe is just not right.)
  11. Verona is credited! Edit: As "Additional Voices"
  12. Very clever!! Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
  13. I haven't seen it. Not a fan of Anovos so much I can't bring myself to look [emoji14] It should get as close to mirror as possible, not a true mirror but absharp reflection. If not, its just another shoddy job for pre-sale profit. If it's just to put in a display cabinet, is probably fine. If you get one to wear : strip, prep, and chrome it yourself to match your kit. Just have a backup plan since you'll likely be waiting a year for it. Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
  14. Well, it's been in a box since the premiere, so it's not a problem. I did not finish it with a clear coat of any kind, so the silver chips off (showing the black) quite easily. I just let that go for weathering and battle wear. Actually the fingerprints are part of her weathering look, and I probably need a lot more. But right now I'm wondering when I'll get the courage to destroy this gorgeous alclad chrome for the silver nitrate version... which I will be able to weather with elmers glue, vasaline, or whatever strikes my fancy. My TKs know I am quite a stickler for shiny, and walk around buffing their white armor before troops. I truly detest finger prints on Vader and will wipe them without asking sometimes. However, so far CP has been okay, not driving me insane!
  15. I happened to have an Anovos FOTK. When I saw the trailer at Celebration I immediately decided to forego any fun times with it and turn it into "that chrome trooper." Little did i know how much work that would be!
  16. They do! I have to dig them out of the bottom of the "leftovers" box for ya and find a good box for $5 shipping.
  17. Part 1: Chroming Your Armor Here I will post different ways to chrome your armor. You do this after all your pieces are trimmed and ready to strap. Insert final CRL wording here when approved. Proposed CRL Wording (as of 12/26/15): The armor is a highly reflective metallic, silver or chrome-like finish. This finish may include non-colored, non-opaque weathering. SUGGESTIONS: The reflectivity is sharp, approaching “mirror finish.” It is not a foggy silver or shiny gray. The weathering is similar to fingerprinting and smudging, not carbon scoring or dirt (as in sandtroopers). The weathering may reduce the base reflectivity, but should generally not be opaque except for scratches and small marks. CHROMING OPTIONS: Vacuum metalizing process (expensive) Professional automotive chrome spray (let the experts do it) 2-Part silvering systems Alclad or related 1-part silvering (see Part 1B) Silver spray paint Chrome stretch vinyl wrap (see Part 1C) Chrome spray paint* * For whatever reason, chrome spray paints tend to have a “foggy” finish, not reflective. Part 1A: Prepping the black base. This section applies to those who will be using a silvering system (Alclad, AngelGilding, or even Vacuum Metalizing) to chrome their armor. You have to do this even if you are Vacuum Metalizing, unless the company you send out to is willing to do the prep-work for you. Note that resin parts gas out and the metalizing vendor may not guarantee a perfect finish on resin parts, or any surface that is not prepared properly. This is also a good step if you use a chrome or silver spray paint, as it provides a black base for your natural weathering, dings, and scratches. For silvering systems, your preparation is everything. You can't cut corners here, or your final product will show it quite readily. The goal of the black base is to achieve a “glassy, mirror finish” because whatever the armor looks like under the Alclad, that will appear quite boldly after the Alclad is applied. If your black base is mirror finish, your chrome finish will be a mirror finish. If you shortcut this step, you will get a less crisp reflection and show every flaw in your paint and plastic. Phasma’s screen-used armor is a “mirror finish” achieved with the vacuum metalizing process. But we can achieve that with Alclad at a micro fraction of the cost, but only if the black base is truly a mirror finish to begin with. This is where 80% of the chroming process happens. In this section I describe using spraypaint as the base, but you could also use a gloss black airbrush paint or whatever you're comfortable with. WHAT YOU NEED Krylon gloss black spraypaint spray trigger polishing compound (Novus 2 works, or Meguiar’s compound - it is not wax, it is a rubbing compound) wet-dry sandpaper - 320, 600, 1000, 1500, 2000 soft paper or terrycloth towels microfiber cloth gloves recommended bucket or large bowl a soft rag dish soap * NOTE: You can use any paint. I find the Krylon has a finer "mist" output which means it goes on more evenly, connects to itself, and does not "drip" or eggshell up as badly as Rustoleum and other spraypaints. PREPARATION AND PAINTING Prep the armor by (1) washing the release agents, residues, grit, and dust off the armor, and (2) sanding softly with 320-600 grit paper (your choice). This is to give the paint something to grip to. Make sure armor is completely dry, and wipe off any dust or grit from the sanding prep. Spray 2-3 coats of gloss black on each piece using long, even strokes about 10” from the item. If by some miracle this comes out 100% glass smooth, with no peeling, dripping, or wrinkling of the paint, you’re done. If not, go on to Step 1B for any pieces that are not perfect (which will be most of them). WET SANDING IT SMOOTH Fill a large bowl or bucket with warm water and a drop of dish soap. Soak a strip of each grit of microfine sandpaper in the water. Be sure the paint layers have completely dried/cured before sanding. Using long, soft strokes in one direction (back and forth, not circles), start with the wet 320 and smooth off any peels, wrinkles, or drips. Wipe occasionally to remove grit and excess paint and water. Once completely smooth, switch up to finer grains of sandpaper until milky smooth. You may have to repeat this process with more paint and more sanding. Thick drips tend to peel off in chunks, leaving you with ridges. POLISH TO "MIRRORED GLASS" FINISH Once your parts are smooth as silk and completely dry, you can polish them. (I like to do this while watching movies.) Using liberal amounts of compound and a terrycloth or soft paper towel, work the compound in circles, wiping off with a microfiber cloth on occasion. Repeat, repeat, repeat. You should begin to see sharp reflections in the polish. When you think it’s enough, do it again. It’s amazing when the edges of lights go from slightly fuzzy to absolutely sharp! You’ll thank me for not cutting this corner! Note: compound doesn’t get rid of visible scratches. Part 1B: Chroming with Alclad II Chrome 107. The system I used on my first pass at chroming came out brilliantly. I used the Alclad II Chrome 107 “finish” that you can get at hobby stores for about $9/oz. I used a total of 6 oz. for the entire suit. Alclad chrome is a silver particulate in substrate (liquid) that you spray on top of a paint base. For Phasma a black base is best. I will describe the entire procedure here, but the short of it is black paint, then airbrush on the Alclad. After the chroming you can finish it with Alclad Clear Gloss or a similar clear coating (not urethane automotive clearcoat) to hold the particulates in place. The chrome will otherwise “chip off” quite easily. WHAT YOU NEED Alclad II 107 Chrome (from a hobby shop) - 6-8 oz per suit. an airbrush (I bought a $10 Central Pneumatic kit from Harbor Freight, came with an adapter for the big compressor) an air compressor (I borrowed a friend’s 6gal compressor which had a pressure regulator, gave me 20-30 min. between refills, which are noisy) cleaning kit, thinner/cleaners, etc. respirator recommended gloves recommended PREPARATION Set up an area you can spray safely with no wind or dust and plenty of light. Be sure to wear a respirator and long gloves. (I cut open a large box.) Connect your compressor, airbrush, etc. and pour Alclad into the applicator bottle (or if you bought individual 1oz bottles, connect it if you can). Your compressor’s output pressure should be 15-20 PSI. (I kept mine around 18. It changes a bit whenever the compressor reloads.) Spray a few practice sprays on a safe surface (I used my cardboard) so that you can adjust the flow. You want a mist, not anything too thick or too fast. APPLYING THE CHROME Alclad is not a paint. It is a slurry of aluminum particles floating in a lacquer base. The “silver” particles are microscopic and settle into the asperities of the paint. So the smoother your base, the more smoothly the particles will lay down. Alclad dries very fast, within seconds. This allows you to continuously apply many layers at a time. It is also very susceptible to “striping” so you have to pay attention to your layers. If you lay down too much, or if your base is not mirror reflective, you will be seeing a final coat that is foggy. Also, if your pressure is too much or too concentrated, you will see a “foam” that dries slowly and is a bit less mirrored. Be sure to let this dry before touching it! SPRAYING AND BUFFING Spray a few coats/layers onto the pieces. I started with the TD since it will not be seen and it therefore is good practice. As you spray you will see the silvering appear on top of the black. As you add layers, it begins to cover the black entirely. You can work on small areas at a time. After a few coats in a small area, use a soft paper towel or tissue to lightly buff the silver back and forth. This helps to settle the particles into a single direction and rubs off any loose particles that will cause fogging. Repeat for all parts until you are satisfied that they are fully covered in chrome and no black is showing. That was easy! FINISHING I did not finish my Alclad with a clear coat (such as Alclad Gloss Klear Kote) due to time. However, if you don’t finish it, the silver particles will rub or chip off quite easily. Several of the FOTKs from the World Premiere now have silver streaks all over their biceps and elbows :-) Before you coat it, however, be sure to give it a final buffing. I found that in some cases, more buffing revealed more black, while other times more buffing revealed more mirror finish. Mirroring was prominent on my chest. If you put a coat over the Alclad, be sure it is truly clear gloss and not the kind that has a natural “yellow” tint. If you use urethane, get a violet dye for it. Part 1C: VViViD Chrome Stretch Vinyl. For some of the smaller parts, like the foot plates, I was unable to get a base coat on my ABS/For-Sale-Sign to stick. So we used stretch vinyl, which we bought for about $20 on Amazon. There are definitely better (and more expensive) quality products out there, but this one was fine for the smaller parts. The VViViD we bought had a strange eggshell texture to it so its reflective quality, while sharp, also retained that eggshell quality. The chrome is also a very blue tint, which was an "ok" match for my Alclad chrome. Stretch vinyl is easy to apply. Simply cut a piece slightly larger than the part you want to cover, and begin wrapping. We used a hair dryer on a low setting to heat the vinyl to stretch around corners. It is helpful to have a tool like a hard silicone spatula to help you smooth it out, as pressing with my thumb eventually, slowly, tore the skin from the nail. Start in the middle and work your way out. Once stretched, it does not want to retract, so if you stretch it incorrectly or too much around a corner, you have to then do a lot more work to get it flat again. It's very tricky, but once you get the hang of it, it's pretty efficient. It is equally time consuming and in some ways more effort than chroming.
  18. Greetings, Phasma Makers. I started a pretty Google Slides version as well, if you prefer the most up-to-date version as I slowly build this tutorial. We also have a discussion group on Facebook which is a fun place for rants and cheers that don't belong here. This tutorial may appear to be in a non-linear order. This is because I'm writing the tutorials out of order. So read on for what you need, check back if it's missing, or check the Google Slides where it is likely to appear first (and in order, and with links). As long as I have editing privileges on this thread, I'll keep adding details and photos. ~ Ingrid -------------------- (Added 12/26/15) Part 1. Chroming your armor. --> 1A. Prepping your armor - base black. --> 1B. Alclad II Chrome 107 technique. --> 1C. Chrome stretch vinyl.
  19. I have a pair of Medium FOTK (black/white) "alpha" gloves "for sale"... and a pair of untrimmed spats.
  20. You're very welcome. It is a very very time-consuming build. Definitely make sure you have an experienced support network to help you!
  21. Here's my take on the "mirror finish" just to express my opinion - and it is just that, one of many opinions. I'd like to propose wording along these lines: The armor is a highly reflective metallic, silver or chrome-like finish. This finish may include non-colored, non-opaque weathering. (I know saying "non-" isn't as helpful as coming up with the best wording. So feel free to help me do that.) MY RATIONALIZATION - both from an accuracy standpoint and from a practical, builder's standpoint. The screen-used suit has a mirror-reflective finish that shows fairly sharp details of the environment. It is often displayed in dark environments, in which specific lighting is reflected briliantly and sharply in most pieces. On screen, some accommodation may have been made to fuzz out camera, crew, and other unwanted reflections. We do not allow for dull or flat black vader helmets or armor. We may not specify that ANH TKs must be "shiny," but we do specify that clones are not. "Shiny" for TKs is left up to interpretation. For example, my AP ABS was nice and shiny when I got it - but with some compound I was able to get it to a mirror reflective shine, and that is my personal standard of shiny for my own TK. I don't impose it on other TKs... but I do believe it is relevant to Phasma. We don't see the mirror reflective shine in the CT TK armor, but we DO in Phasma's armor. We also see the fingerprints and smoodgies on the armor in some scenes. In the scene where she is about to be tackled by Chewie she is shiny, no smoodgies. Even when smoodgie, you can see the reflection of the environment around her. This kind of "weathering" (it is not weathering to me) is easily accomplished by putting vasaline or oils on top of the mirror finish. This "weathering" is clear, translucent, and simply changes the angle of reflection of light, rather than blocking it like an opaque weathering would do. Phasma's armor is not shiny gray, it is not even shiny. It is specifically reflective, which implies a bit of shine to it, but isn't required for it to be reflective. All metal is "shiny" to some degree. Even with vacuum metalizing, the base coat over which the metal is deposited must be a reflective gloss in order for the final metal to have a gloss coat. Much preparation went into the screen used suit prior to metalizing to ensure that it would result in a mirror / reflective finish. Granted I did not try every variation of spray chrome, but those I did try came out "foggy shine" not the least reflective. In fact, my fingers are chrome spray, but my hand plates had to be completely thinned off so that I could paint them black and re-do them. Shortcutting that was a disaster. It was like "gray sheen." They are "shiny" as in light bounces off them, or maybe we should say that they have a "sheen" to them, but they are not reflective. To me reflective means the edges of the images reflected are sharp enough to make out at least the basic shape; in lights, sharp edges. In the chromes and metallic paints I used, all were foggy with a sheen. Even the Alclad did not give me a good reflection if the base coat beneath it was not reflective. This is why I spent many, many hours polishing the black to a "glass black." This is also what the 3POs do (albeit with different base color), and the gloss black I achieved before silvering was literally as sharp and reflective as Darth Vader shoulder armor black. I'm definitely not saying anyone should send out and shell out for vacuum metalizing. My quote was $5000 and Gordon said he had an estimate of $3500. To me that was outrageous. I achieved a similar or better reflective result with Alclad for under $150 including all the Krylon and equipment I had to buy (airbrush etc.). You can see details of Hollywood Blvd. in my chest piece, just as you can see details of Maz's ruins and smoke tendrils in Phasma's. The prepping effort was probably less rigorous than if I had manually prepped for VM. My point is that my preference for "reflective" is not about cost or a specific process, but in the RESULT of the process. However you can achieve a reflective metallic result is fine by me. And if you can get reflective (sharp) with rattlecan chrome that's great! I was not able to achieve such results. I also do not think chrome is necessary. Silver may work. Any silvery metal color could work. As long as it's "reflective" in its finish. You could probably polish a dark gray to reflectivity and get away with it (though it won't have the metallic look) but you can't do that with any of the rattlecan chromes I tried. It just got foggier and duller! As for weathering, I'd like to be clear that it is not carbon scoring, grime like the TDs, or anything we normally consider weathering. It's smoodgies. I can't come up with a better name for it. It's also temporary as she seems to clean it off after a battle. Sorry I talk a lot
  22. The kits are generally sized for an average sized person - whatever that means - 70kg male 6 feet tall?? There are no kits specific to height that I know of. You'll have to modify any kit, so I recommend perhaps not a fiberglass one. At least, I don't know how to trim fiberglass
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