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Help with sniper plate for Centurion


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Hi all, so I was thinking that I would take a break after I got EIB and enjoy the armour for a bit but alas, it is not my personality to do so. So I'm looking at the Centurion requirements and most require some work but this one is going to give me some trouble.

 

Can anyone give recommendations on how to remove a riveted sniper plate, fill the hole and what paint to use so that it would meet Centurion requirements?

 

The pictures below are how my sniper plate is stuck on right now.

 

Thanks

 

DSC02698.gif

 

DSC02699.gif

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I don't have an answer as such to your problem but I am sure you can leave them on for Centurion as the word ideally is used as quoted below so it's not compulsory.

 

"Ideally there should be no visible rivets or brads used to secure the sniper plate to the left greave."

Edited by Daveskie
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Mathias was suggesting I move the plate closer to my shin regardless. If he'll let me get away with not moving it I'll be happy because it's the only thing that's helping me not get the sniper plate in the thighs issue. Although I guess I could trim my thighs a little more to prevent that.

 

Mathias - can you comment? Is a NO rivet/brads requirement for Centurion or is it just a nice-to-have?

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How do ou get the old one off?

 

removing rivets can be kind of tricky. I took the ones out of the bottom of the earcaps on my helmet to replace them with screws (EIB/Centurion requirement). The advice I got on here was to drill it out - VERY slowly and VERY carefully. The friction of the drill against the rivet heats up the metal and can melt/damage your plastic. Someone more experienced in doing this can chime in.

 

http://www.whitearmo...107#entry246268

 

What I did for my helmet was took a small punch and punched out the 'dot' which is what you can see on your photo of the inside of your sniper plate above. I then made the mistake of cutting off the end using wire snips, which took out the inside of the rivet, but deformed the shaft remaining. As a result, I scratched up my helmet around the rivet pretty good. See the link to my thread above - there is more advice from others in there. You will have a bit more room to work with your shins than I did with my helmet. Good luck!

Edited by boomshakra
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So you're saying that if I punch out the round bit it should loosen it but don't cut it at any time? :)

 

nah - just telling you that the way I did it wasn't the right way. since you'll have more room to work with you might be able to squeeze the rivet back into shape from where the 'dot' deformed it, using needle nose pliers and twisting it around so that you shape it properly. or you could probably cut it with a dremel.

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I was able to use a set of wire cutters, cut the inner pin by the washer, then wiggle the outer rivet out. I did use ABS paste to doctor the holes, if you are careful, you won't even need to paint them. Use a tootpick to apply.

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The simple way to fix this would be to get a new sniper plate and glue it on. No rivets are allowed on the Centurion.

False.

 

"Ideally" does not mean "may not". However, I do heavily encourage any and everyone to rid their knee plates of rivets unless they do ROTJ.

Also, this wording is subject to change at any time, and little notice may be given. So it might as well be a requirement.

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so a rivet will pass centurion?

 

RS props suit originals show rivets in the knee.

 

glue fails...

 

don't we want strong parts on parts such as this?

 

I don't personally think that glue is a good option for this part.

 

my suit does not have glue, and it should NOT be a requirement.

 

the originals were riveted.

 

rivets were used to repair failed suit elements, the knee is a great example.

 

keith, do you think glue would stand up to the flexibility requirements of

 

the shin part? glue over time will fail.

 

a long term, troopable acceptance should be in this location just like

 

a split rivet.

 

I stand opposed to a ban on knee rivets.

Edited by TK Bondservnt 2392
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I recently attached mine with E6000 just in case I decide to go for Centurian in the future. I am definitely curious to see how it holds up. Luckily, with E6000 it will be easy to re-attach if it seems like it is starting to get loose.

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so a rivet will pass centurion?

 

RS props suit originals show rivets in the knee.

 

glue fails...

 

don't we want strong parts on parts such as this?

 

I don't personally think that glue is a good option for this part.

 

my suit does not have glue, and it should NOT be a requirement.

 

the originals were riveted.

 

rivets were used to repair failed suit elements, the knee is a great example.

 

keith, do you think glue would stand up to the flexibility requirements of

 

the shin part? glue over time will fail.

 

a long term, troopable acceptance should be in this location just like

 

a split rivet.

 

I stand opposed to a ban on knee rivets.

You're talking about the knee ammo belt. I was talking about the sniper knee plate.

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I recently attached mine with E6000 just in case I decide to go for Centurian in the future. I am definitely curious to see how it holds up. Luckily, with E6000 it will be easy to re-attach if it seems like it is starting to get loose.

It'll hold up just fine. What do you expect yto be doing in your armour really? You're not supposed to play rugby in it. If E-6000 is strong enough to hold the rest of your amour together, it can hold a piece that receives little to no stress at all. And if not, it was more likely poorly glued on rather than a fault with the glue itself.

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I am talking about the sniper knee.

 

the originals had rivets on the knee.

 

the RS props shin has holes.

 

that shows rivets.

Edited by TK Bondservnt 2392
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I am talking about the sniper knee.

 

the originals had rivets on the knee.

 

the RS props shin has holes.

 

that shows rivets.

Do show please. Either way, we know from the archive pictures that they were glued on without rivets. If the RS suit really had a rivet or two from repairs, that's irrelevant as their suit isn't the world. Allowing their suit to dictate all and everything we might as well allow Mr. No Stripes to the party.

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that's why it's that way in the crl's..

 

proof there.

 

glue is not the standard for a reason.

 

there are 2 rivets on each side of the RS props suit.

 

not a repair.

 

each hole is exactly in the proper place for a riveted knee plate

 

it's not a one off... it's a stronger and screen accurate way

Edited by TK Bondservnt 2392
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that's why it's that way in the crl's..

 

proof there.

 

glue is not the standard for a reason.

 

there are 2 rivets on each side of the RS props suit.

 

not a repair.

 

each hole is exactly in the proper place for a riveted knee plate

 

it's not a one off... it's a stronger and screen accurate way

Now you're not making sense. Also, remember that we're talking about Centurion. If you don't like it you don't have to apply.

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there are holes in the RS props suit.

 

if there's ever a centurion suit.

 

holes equal rivets.

 

centurion should reflect the higher standard.

 

glue is not the standard.

 

where did the RS props knee plate come from?

 

I saw original photos with holes where the old knee plate was

 

missing.

Edited by TK Bondservnt 2392
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there are holes in the RS props suit.

 

if there's ever a centurion suit.

 

holes equal rivets.

 

centurion should reflect the higher standard.

 

glue is not the standard.

 

where did the RS props knee plate come from?

 

I saw original photos with holes where the old knee plate was

 

missing.

The RS knee plate is a sculpt.

Now where are those hole you're talking about?

captur12.jpg

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wow.

 

not like the photo I remember. but that's it.

 

so anyone who rivets their knee plate and is accepted as centurion, might be

 

rejected in the future?

 

are there any centurion troopers with riveted knee plates?

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There are a few approved with riveted knee plates, and no one will loose their status if it is changed, but I would not recommend riveting your knee plate either way.

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