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Opinions on helmet interiors


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Well, my armor party is coming up soon, and I am trying to get as much done as I can own my own. Having said that, I am debating painting the helmet interior BEFORE putting it together. A friend of mine who is coming to the party suggested I wait and brush-paint the inside after the helmet is together. He said it was to keep any affixed pieces, like the battery boxes, mini-amp, fans, etc. from sticking to the paint and not the helmet.

 

Wouldn't it make just as much sense to mask off any areas that I am gong to "stick" anything to and then paint, leaving the exposed, white areas to epoxy the sound and fans systems to.

 

Just seems it would be easier to paint the three separate pieces than to try to muddle my way inside and around everything already installed.

 

Anybody agree or disagree? Love to hear how others have done it.

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I wanted to paint my helmet once I got it. I felt it gave it a more finished feel and my components would blend in. I didn't really care for the white helmets looking so cluttered with wires and fans.

 

When I got my helmet it was already assembled so I didn't want to take it apart to paint it. It's an RT-mod similar in size to AP. Kiyotei thread "Starting to build my AP armor" under the section "AP/TE2 Armor - Building and Discussion" has some good photos of the painting and helmet assembly. I used the krylon plastic flat black spray paint which works great and dries fast. I just made sure to mask the helmet real well before painting. The krylon bonds real well to the plastic and I have not had any issue with the paint pealing from the helmet where I have add attachments (fans / amp etc..). I wouldn't recommend masking or leaving spots for your accessories. I had to shift things around and change configuration around to best utilize the limited helmet space. You might find items fit better in different spots after a troop or two.

 

I used Velcro to attach everything so if I wanted or upgrade my bucket or change my system out it would be hassle free. Right now I have a radio shack voice amp powered by 1 9volt battery, a powered mic, and two 12volt fans. I used 2 12volt remote control batteries that are half the size of 1 9volt battery to power my fans to save space. I could remove everything if need be. Speaker wires are attached with a plug connector so that if needed they could be the only remaining item in the helmet. I see if I can upload some photos for reference.

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I sprayed the inside of mine with Performix Plasti Dip but I did it after I had it together. It took some careful masking and I had to work one section at a time. Either because of the type of spray I was using or I might have just tried to put it on too thick to start, it started to run inside the helmet. I also figure this was a side affect of essentially trying to spray the inside rim of a bowl. (Gravity. Go figure!)

 

Once it dried though it looked pretty good and I was able to spray over the run marks to even them out. There are still a few spots I missed but they are under the rim and can't be seen unless you crank your head funny when you put it on.

 

If you want to spray it, do it before its together. If I had it to do over again and it was already assembled, I would have brushed it on. Either way, be sure to mask anything you don't want black (your hand could always slip) and have a wet rag and some Goo Gone handy in case you do. (Goo gone does wonders and leaves a nice orange smell.)

 

I'm still working on the fans and speakers but the plan is the same as Bryce. Velcro boxes for easy removal and repair.

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Did it eat the plastic right away or did it do it over time? I used it on several pieces of mine and had no immediate effects. Just wondering if i should clean again to make sure its all off. I never put it directly on the plastic. I put it on a rag and wipe until the "sticky" is gone and then buff it pretty well so maybe I have just been lucky.

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I haven't had any problems with Goo Gone eating my helmet or anything else for that matter but the bottle does have a disclaimer that it should be tested "on a hidden area before using" (what item doesn't these days?), and not used on silk, leather, suede, or rubber. But I didn't really expect it to say, "Don't apply to replica Stormtrooper Armor."

 

I was going to post pictures of the bottle but just as easy is the website, www.GooGone.com The site has a whole list of products that they say are are made from "Citrus and Petroleum Solvent". The Material Safety Data Sheets are also there for those that may be more chemically inclined.

 

This isn't an endorsement of the product. I just felt that since I mentioned it and there was a possibility that someone had a problem with it before, I wanted to make sure no one ruined their armor after reading my post when a little soap and water may have cleaned things up just as well. I know Tony (ItsThatGuy) said he used a different product but I thought in an abundance of caution, I would add a bit to my original post. Knowing what work I'm putting into my helmet, it would kill me if I helped (even inadvertantly) destroy someone elses armor.

 

And as for the Magic Eraser, haven't tried it but I will now. Thanks for the hint.

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Yeah, Magic eraser is the best! It gets those nasty black scuffs off the bottom of your calf peices like a dream! Plus I carry two blasters that have been painted (E-11 and MG-34) and both like to rub off on some places... So it helps remove that too... and other hard to get stains and marks

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I've assembled a few AP helmets for some folks, and have on request, painted the insides using Krylon Fusion Satin black. The end result is actually very nice. I liked it so much that I painted the inside of both my Clone helmets.

 

I picked up a can of the same stuff (Krylon Fusion Satin black) and tried to use on my resin Hengstler counter and it made a MESS! :huh: The paint got "globby" and ran. Guess resin isn't the best receiver of this kind of paint, or maybe I just got a bad can? I ended up having to re-sand the whole counter and repainted it with Krylon Flat Black (not Fusion).

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you might've sprayed it on too thick. It's all too easy to do... I still do it sometimes. I've used it almost exclusively on custom parts for at least a dozen Sandtrooper back packs with fantastic results. Parts were a mix of HIPS, Tupperware, resin and other various plastics.

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Either you sprayed it too thick or didn't clean the resin properly before hand. You have to make sure all the releasing agent is off. I always use Dawn soap on my resin pieces and the give 'em a quick scrubbing with a tooth brush, then rinse them very well. Then hand dry them with a towel and let them sit and dry for a while before I do any painting. I also use Rust-oleum Auto Primer on them first - great stuff and drys fast (10 - 15 minutes).

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I am in the middle of assembling my first helmet, and I just used spray on truck bed liner. I honestly think it gives it a really cool asthetic look on the inside and seems to give it a bit more stability. It was really easy to apply too, just mask the sucker off really good and give it three even coats. Takes 5 minutes to dry also which is great. I can put a few pics up if someone wants to see.

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My AP helmet is supposed to arrive in the mail on Friday.

 

I'm definitely considering painting the inside-- but I'd love to see what the truck liner looks like as well.

That sounds like it might be really cool.

 

If you have some pics, I'd love to see 'em! :D

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my only concern with using truck liner spray is that it might insulate the helmet making it hotter inside? Anyhow have this experience? I used Fusion flat black and it worked fine. Paint the helmet before you cut out any holes and before assembly! Mask mask and mask some more. You would be amazed out how that paint gets in the tiniest hole in masking.

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my only concern with using truck liner spray is that it might insulate the helmet making it hotter inside? Anyhow have this experience? I used Fusion flat black and it worked fine. Paint the helmet before you cut out any holes and before assembly! Mask mask and mask some more. You would be amazed out how that paint gets in the tiniest hole in masking.

 

Yeah. :6: Found that out after masking the entire helmet, just to paint the frown, and paint STILL leaked under the tape on the edges!!

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  • 3 weeks later...
CarolinaNewbie70 said:
Hhmmm.... why didn't I think of that? Good tip. Guess it's off to the hobby shop. ^_^

 

There is stuff on the market now called frog tape. After reading a PopSci Article on it---------------and ordered some. The stuff works miracles.

Edited by gmrhodes13
link not working, removed gmrhodes13 2021
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Yeah, Magic eraser is the best! It gets those nasty black scuffs off the bottom of your calf peices like a dream! Plus I carry two blasters that have been painted (E-11 and MG-34) and both like to rub off on some places... So it helps remove that too... and other hard to get stains and marks

 

I realize I'm a little late on this one, but I thought I should mention it.

 

I was hanging out with a couple of my Garrison-mates last weekend-- one of whom produces some very nice TB armor and knows quite a bit about ABS -- and was warned that prolonged or intense use of a Magic Eraser will remove the gloss from the plastic. Apparently, there's something chemically reactive in the sponge that, over time, will leave dull spots on ABS if applied often/hard enough.

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I realize I'm a little late on this one, but I thought I should mention it.

 

I was hanging out with a couple of my Garrison-mates last weekend-- one of whom produces some very nice TB armor and knows quite a bit about ABS -- and was warned that prolonged or intense use of a Magic Eraser will remove the gloss from the plastic. Apparently, there's something chemically reactive in the sponge that, over time, will leave dull spots on ABS if applied often/hard enough.

 

Any sort of scouring pad you need to be carefull with, but in the case of a mistake im sure you could use some polish to fix it right back up.

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