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dm101 Doopys E11 Blaster Build

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MODIFICATIONS NOT INCLUDED IN RESIN KIT-

 

BOLT

The Doopy’s resin kit does not come with a bolt. Technically it does, but it is molded into the receiver section of the barrel. (See the image of a real Sterling)

My bolt is made from a standard wood 2x4, a piece of ¼ air hose and a #6 wood screw.

Step #1- Take item #17 CHARGING HANDLE and drill a clearance hole for the wood screw to slip into.

Step #2- Measure the inside diameter of your gun at the butt end (with End Cap removed) I subtracted about 1/16†from that diameter to give some clearance.

Step #3- Use a compass (NOT the north-south-east-west kind). Using your diameter calculated from Step #2. Draw the circle on the wide side of your 2x4. (3-3/8†side)

Step #4- I had access to a band saw, so that is what I used to cut the 2x4. A jig saw, scroll saw etc will do the trick. Cut out your circle as close as you can to being round.

Step #5- I used a disk and belt sander to sand to a round shape.

Step # 6- I lightly coated the entire wood block in bondo. This helped fill in some of the tooling marks and made nice sealer for the wood. I then sanded this smooth.

Step #7- Paint the newly bondo coated wood block silver.

Step #8- Slide wood block into gun. Position so part of the wood block is forward of the barrel slot. I did NOT glue this in, It is free to move.

Step #9- Drill a pilot hole for the wood screw. Screw wood screw into pilot hole.

Step #10- Cut off wood screw head. I had to make several cuts until the Charging handle slid down on the wood screw far enough. The charging handle should almost rest against the outside of the barrel.

Step #11- I had some 1/4†nylon air line tubing. I cut this to length to go over my cut down wood screw.

Step #11- Glue charging handle to cut down wood screw. Make sure of the orientation. The curved portion of the charging handle faces towards the guns muzzle.

Step # 13- Insert spring from previous Spring Modification step. Re-place end cap. If your spring is not to springy, you can pull back on the charging handle and your new bolt will move back and forth. (also your end cap needs to fit tight)

BOLT-1.jpg

BOLT-2.jpg

BOLT-3.jpg

BOLT-4.jpg

BOLT-5.jpg

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I received my Doopy Doos kit today and was sad to find that it was missing about 8 pieces. I've contacted them and am wanting for a response. Has anyone ever had this happen to them?

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Sorry to hear, Tony... that results just in unnecessary trouble for you. When I ordered mine some months ago, I experienced no problems at all.

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Nice intstructions for the handle, may one day have to take all the best of the builds and try make one page

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Sorry to hear, Tony... that results just in unnecessary trouble for you. When I ordered mine some months ago, I experienced no problems at all.

 

I appreciate it. It really does look like the box was tampered with. It was beat up with 2 rubber bands around the width of the box. I've been in email communication with them and they said they never put rubber bands around their boxes. I'm afraid someone got into it after it was shipped. What I don't understand is why someone would take 8 pieces instead of the whole thing? Just frustrated because I was looking forward to getting started on it while I was waiting on my armor and shipping to the States takes forever. So you can imagine how I felt when I finally got the box and then noticed half of the kit was missing. :angry::(:shok::angry2::explodingemotie::56pullhair: etc........

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That's really weird like you said, think they would have taken the whole box, sounds like someone has damaged it and tried to cover up. Hope you manage to get spares, maybe doopy's will help you out

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I received my Doopy Doos kit today and was sad to find that it was missing about 8 pieces. I've contacted them and am wanting for a response. Has anyone ever had this happen to them?

 

That stinks that you are missing so many pieces.

Your parcel most likely got jammed in the sorting machine or worse.

Your parts were probably lost on the floor or in the sorting machines guts.

They picked up what they could find and made a half hearted attempt to reseal your package.

I worked for a shipping company and you would be horrified of the treatment of your parcel after it leaves your hands.

That’s why, when I ship something I pack it so you could run a 60 ton tank over it and the package and it’s contents will survive.

Let us know how you make out getting replacement parts from Doopy’s.

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this is an interesting build but it has 2 mistakes

 

first

 

the charging handle MUST not be mounted on the outside of the tube over a screw

the flanges on each edge "go inside" the channel.

 

BOLT-5.jpg

 

as you have it, it's sitting on top this is completely incorrect

also you have it mounted 2" too far back. the real charging handle sits at the far end of the charging channel.

 

this image shows the correct position of the charging handle

 

BOLT-1.jpg

 

 

second

 

your bayonet lug was mounted too high on your rebuilt gun when they put it back together, you can see the misaligned holes

in your re created tube which was incorrectly painted with the wrong paint. the actual bayonet lug sits in line with the notch, and the holes.

it's obvious that your machinist misaligned his rebuild in this area.

 

I was thinking this was a great set of diagrams, and I just had to point out these situations because

the cocking handle and rear bolt situation is important to how any replica should be made.

 

in many demil replicas they don't have real bolts, so this puts the charging handle in the wrong position,

as well the recoil buffer and spring assembly are supposed to fit 1/2" inside the rear of the bolt, so

if a solid tube of steel was inserted into the demil, the spring assembly will sit in the wrong positions.

 

in a real sterling the recoil buffer, and 2 springs sit partially inside the rear of the bolt, and the spring

is under compression, so it changes the shape of the spring.

 

keep up the good work, and change that charging handle.

 

:popcorn:

Edited by TK Bondservnt 2392

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CORRECTION- to Bolt Modification

Vern- Thanks for noticing those points. Now that I look at my image of the charging handle and the inserted spring it is not a true representation of my final build. When I took this image I had the end cap off the gun and the spring was sticking out the back end of the gun about 2 inches. When you have the end cap in place, the spring does force the bolt and the charging handle all the way forward (like the image of the real Sterling) (just my bad selection of images)

Mounting the charging handle to the outside was my mistake based on my demil’d Sterling. My demil’d Sterling has the charging handle welded to the outside of the pipe they used to demil the gun. OPPS on me, sorry to mislead you guys. You are 100% correct I should have put it inside the gun. I still plan to mount it the same way with the screw, so that it will function. It will just require a little more work.

THANKS for the input, I really appreciate it.

CHARGEHANDLE.jpg

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CORRECTION- Bayonet Lug

My demil'd Sterling was put together with the bayonet Lug in the wrong place.

The photos I have seen on the web show the Bayonet Lug should be in the location of the red box shown in the below image.

Sorry for the bad intel.

bayonetlug.jpg

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MODIFICATIONS NOT INCLUDED IN RESIN KIT-

 

HENGSTLER MOUNTING BRACKET

The Doopy’s resin kit does not come with a Hengstler mounting bracket. You can pick any thickness of sheet metal you desire. Be careful not go to thin or your bracket will be wobbly. I used 22gauge or .03†thick sheet metal made of steel. You could use brass or aluminum.

Step #1- Measure and cut out the sheet metal to the “T†shape.

Step #2- Match your Scope mounting holes and drill holes into your bracket.

Step #3- Drill two clearance holes for mounting the Hengstler. I used #6 screws to mount my Hengstler.

Step #4- Bend the bracket at the line noted. This will be a 90 degree bend.

Step #5- Sand, clean, prime and paint.

henglstermtgbracket.jpg

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CORRECTION- Bayonet Lug

My demil'd Sterling was put together with the bayonet Lug in the wrong place.

The photos I have seen on the web show the Bayonet Lug should be in the location of the red box shown in the below image.

Sorry for the bad intel.

bayonetlug.jpg

 

How the hell did they misplace the bayonet lug? Weird... Can you cut it and weld it lower?

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here's the alignment on an original without being cut down.

 

from the outside

 

bayonetlug003.jpg

from the inside.

 

inside the original is a metal cutout plug.

 

bayonetlug005.jpg

 

the complexity of the internals might be a reason why the demil machinist does not always do the right positioning.

Edited by TK Bondservnt 2392

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How do you mount the charging plug on the inside? When I dry fit it, it won't come all the way through the channel. It's too large. And if anything is in the chamber, like a plug and spring, there isn't enough room to have it inside? The only way I have found to make it work is the way it is in this tutorial. I have yet to see a solution to this problem.

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the charging handle can be sanded slightly, and usually is put inside the extention that people add to the model.

if you put a screw on top of a piece of wooden dowel you should be able to mount your handle on top of a

screw using the hole at the rear of the barrel to set it up, then it should slide down the channel to the front

after you've made the handle slightly smaller.

 

most people cut off the top of the screw and have a hole in the handle and just glue it down.

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My apologies for not updating this thread.

Like I said I do this at work and it’s been mega busy.

Thanks again to Vern. He described the solution in words pretty darn good.

I just need to build the photos to fix this thread.

Please standby…

 

DSCN1041.jpg

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the charging handle can be sanded slightly, and usually is put inside the extention that people add to the model.

if you put a screw on top of a piece of wooden dowel you should be able to mount your handle on top of a

screw using the hole at the rear of the barrel to set it up, then it should slide down the channel to the front

after you've made the handle slightly smaller.

 

most people cut off the top of the screw and have a hole in the handle and just glue it down.

Whew! that just validated the exact process that I followed to make that work on my build! Thanks Vern!

 

Craig, looking forward to seeing your updates!

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just passing on general ideas from other threads

 

would love to see doopy add a real rear bolt and handle to make this easy to do

Edited by TK Bondservnt 2392

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hey guys, hello from the UK :)

 

Im currently doing my E11 build, and very similar to this with a fashioned bolt and charging handle which slides back etc. Ive found some 20mm UPVC pipe that fits inside the barrel perfectly... add a spring to the back and hey presto.

 

However, rather than leaving the pipe from the end of the spring all teh way to the muzzle end, i intend to cut it back to a normal bolt size. But what have you guys put in front of your bolt, have you left a long pin or just sanded it flush?

 

I wonder if i dont leave anything to stop the bolt moving too far down the barrel that the only thing holding it back is the charging handle...

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hey guys, hello from the UK :)

 

Im currently doing my E11 build, and very similar to this with a fashioned bolt and charging handle which slides back etc. Ive found some 20mm UPVC pipe that fits inside the barrel perfectly... add a spring to the back and hey presto.

 

However, rather than leaving the pipe from the end of the spring all teh way to the muzzle end, i intend to cut it back to a normal bolt size. But what have you guys put in front of your bolt, have you left a long pin or just sanded it flush?

 

I wonder if i dont leave anything to stop the bolt moving too far down the barrel that the only thing holding it back is the charging handle...

 

I added an inner barrel to my build. It looks good through the venting holes and gives the bolt something to rest against so the charging handle doesn't have to do all the work.

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hey guys, hello from the UK :)

 

Im currently doing my E11 build, and very similar to this with a fashioned bolt and charging handle which slides back etc. Ive found some 20mm UPVC pipe that fits inside the barrel perfectly... add a spring to the back and hey presto.

 

However, rather than leaving the pipe from the end of the spring all teh way to the muzzle end, i intend to cut it back to a normal bolt size. But what have you guys put in front of your bolt, have you left a long pin or just sanded it flush?

 

I wonder if i dont leave anything to stop the bolt moving too far down the barrel that the only thing holding it back is the charging handle...

 

Good timing- I finally had some free time to work on the build. I plan to update the bolt modification soon. I just bought the Sterling parts kit from Apex. The kit has the bolt and a bunch of assorted de-milled parts. I need to triple check this photo…but I think this is how the charging handle fits into the bolt. (the red bit at the bottom is a shop rag I used to prop up the bolt for the photo)

Any how… to answer your question. I use the charging handle to stop the bolt from moving forward and the spring keeps it from moving backwards. The spring also pushes the bolt forward.

I have bagged the wood block or 2x4 method. I am now going to use a wood dowel which I sanded down to slide inside the Doopy. I am still using the wood screw and clearance hole in the Doopy charging handle. I did not add the internal barrel. I think it’s a nice feature.

 

 

 

Bolt-1-1.jpg

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I added an inner barrel to my build. It looks good through the venting holes and gives the bolt something to rest against so the charging handle doesn't have to do all the work.

 

I did the same with mine. The "bolt" or wood portion is attached with epoxy to the spring. The bolt is pushed by the spring until it meets with the end of the inner barrel. I then marked my Charging handle position and did the install. This keeps any additional pressure off the charging handle/screw.

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