dm101

Any news on this? Looking for a baton. Hope Peter delivers for those who have not gotten theirs

I placed an order for one, fingers and toes crossed that the wait is a short one

Eric- No problem, and thanks for the feedback. Good timing because I had some free time (first time in weeks) to take some additional photos. 1. Photo of butt to cod/crotch connection- * * 2. Photo of wrist forearm return (as in lack there of) (also see the foam which I currently use to keep forearms in place) * * 3. Photo of ab and kidney plates- * I think I messed this up by not placing the rivets on the shim as shown in the screen capture below. (found this screen capture after the build was done ) I think I would need to remove the rivets from the kidney plate???? * * * * * * 4. Photo of greaves, left and right- The AP armor greaves are wonky. The plastics natural set (form) was to fall in the direction shown. Which left or right (if any) are correct. I think I can fix either one. * * 5. Blaster spring- (do you want to see the spring out of my Doppys blaster? I will work on the other comments as my time permits. May be several weeks. Still mad at myself for forgetting the knee pack rivets....argghhhh. Regarding the AP armor sniper knee is a major pain in the rear to align. Majorly wonky. It took us a good 45 minutes of fighting to get it to this state.

No problem. THANKS for the feed back. I have been putting off this submission for almost a year. Needed to redo my side shims and a few other tweaks. Plus waited forever for TK boots to deliver. It's always great to have another set of eyes look things over. A couple of things (like the knee rivet) I completely dropped the ball on that. I am Such an idiot. I was just proud that I got the bloody thing to stay in place with glue. Regarding forearms- I have never seen anyone add a strap from the forearm to the bicep. I took out my foam padding inside the right forearm for some dumb reason that day. I think my forearms are at the correct position. (except for the right one which slipped down) They start at the wrist bone. Yes my forearms do not have a return. Not 100% sure what you mean by camouflaging my side shims.

I used Loctite brand Super Glue Gel to put my Doopy's together. PROS- 1. It is not runny like water. 2. You have a few seconds to move your parts around before it sets. 3. A year plus later I have had zero parts fall off. 4. It does not take long to cure. CONS- 1. You can stick your fingers together just like Super Glue 2. A bit $$$$ 3. I am sure there are more...

This is my "suggested" mounting location for the Doopy's M38 Scope.

As I always say "A picture is worth a thousand words"

OK sorry for the long delay. This is my "suggested" mounting location for the Doopy's M38 Scope.

OK - so the three photos I picked of Han, Luke and Leia all use the M19 scope. I thought as much, but wanted to check. Dradts !!! . So back to my original question/statement. The doopy's comes with the M38 scope (see massive close up shot below). Would the M38 rear scope foot align with the folding stock hinge?

Thanks OH so the scope that comes with a Doopy's is an M38

OK you experts. I am attempting to come up with a scope mounting location for the Doopy’s resin kit. I figured my location by using the three photos of Han, Luke and Leia holding their blasters. I know how wide the rear sight is. I measure it at 1-1/32†wide. So it looks to me like the end of the scope is three rear sights up the gun (see the Leia image). I looked around the FISD forum and was only able to find a reference at this thread- http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/14817-advanced-anh-weaponry-e-11-blaster/

MODIFICATIONS NOT INCLUDED IN RESIN KIT- MOUNTING FOLDING STOCK (optional) I was a bit paranoid at just gluing the folding stock to the main barrel. My resin stock was a bit warped and did not sit square, without some major torque/twisting. I decided to screw the folding stock to the main barrel. Step #1- Drill hole completely thru the folding stock. Hole diameter should be clearance hole for your screw threads to pass thru. Step #2- Drill another hole in first hole. This hole should be a little bigger than your screw head. The depth of this hole should be a little below the surface. You will come back and fill in this hole with putty, bondo, etc… Step #3- (YOU WILL DO THIS STEP TWO TIMES, or ON BOTH SIDES) Drill pilot hole in the round part of the main barrel. (This is the pivot point for the folding stock) ((if your stock was able to fold)) Drill small hole for threads to pass thru in folding stock. Drill another hole on top of the first hole in folding stock. This hole should be a little bigger than your screw head. The depth of this hole should be a little below the surface. You will come back and fill in this hole with putty, bondo, etc… Step #4- Align your folding stock holes to the pilot holes in main barrel. Insert your mounting screws. Step #5- I used JB Weld Steel - Stick Putty to fill in the holes. I also used this to build up the two pivot points or what I am calling buttons. Step #6- Sand, Paint and FINISH

PLEASE add me to the wish list and make it fot TWO sets. Any guess at the ETA?

LOOKS GREAT

YEP it is green. My photo shows the color pretty accurately. Don't forget- This is one bolt out of a thousands. I have also seen the color to be dark gray to a black color, and a brown color. Any of these color combos woul be good. I have not seen any bright chrome colored bolts. (chrome as in the color of a cars bumper circa 1970's model car)

OK the object of this post is to clear up my earlier error. The goal is to have the Doopy’s bolt (or lack of) look more like a Sterling’s sub-machine gun bolt. Here is a image of my de-milled Sterling. MODIFICATIONS NOT INCLUDED IN RESIN KIT- BOLT -----UPDATED---- January 04, 2013 My bolt is made from: 1- A wood dowel (could also use a plastic tube or pipe- if you can find the right diameter) 2- A sheet of .25†thick clear plastic (you can also use colored plastic or wood) 3- A #6 wood screw Step #1- Take item #17 CHARGING HANDLE and drill a clearance hole for the wood screw to slip into. Sand CHARGING HANDLE flat on two sides. Finished thickness of flats to equal less than width of Doopy’s charging handle slide slot. Step #2- WOODEN BOLT- Measure the inside diameter of your gun at the butt end (with End Cap removed) I subtracted about 1/16†from that diameter to give some clearance. I used a belt sander to sand down the outside diameter of my wooden dowel. After a few test fits I made sure it would fit easily inside the gun. I measured up from one end 1.72†and drilled a hole for a #6 screw. The 1.72†is was measured off the de-milled Sterling bolt I have. The overall length of the wood bolt can be more or less than the 2.69†that I show. BOLT THICKNESS EXTENDER- I used a piece of clear .25†thick plastic. You could use wood etc… I made my part 2.00†long. I made the width a bit smaller than the bolt slide slot. I wanted the bolt thickness extender to fit in snug but not be to tight as to not move freely. Measure up 1.72†and drill clearance hole for #6 screw. Take modified charging handle, screw and bolt thickness extender. Test fit together. Mark bolt thickness extender at edge of charging handle. Sand or cut down thickness so that charging handle is flush with top surface of bolt thickness extender. #6 WOOD SCREW- Cut off screw head. I used a Dremil cut off bit. I ground in a slot for a straight screw driver. I use this slot to insert the screw. Step #3- Slide wooden bolt into gun. Step #4- Add bolt thickness extender, and apply glue between wooden bolt and bolt thickness extender. Insert #6 screw. Step #5- Take item #17 CHARGING HANDLE, apply glue, slip over #6 screw. MAKE SURE your charging handle orientation is correct. Step #6- Insert Spring, push bolt forward Step #7- Painting. I choose to paint the bolt the anodized green color from my original Sterling. IMAGE SHOWING de-milled Sterling

It's a fun kit to build. Once you figure out where all the parts go. YES i am working on a set of directions you can down load as a PDF. Stay tuned

WAY TO GO TROOPERS!! COME ON 300 I am still using my Mayan calendar...so the end of the year is... well let me see... 4 lizards plus 6 suns minus 2-1/2 moons carry 1 serpent...yeah by my calculations the end of the year is lizards away from happening

SORRY I fell off the face of the planet. Yes I PROMISE I will have an update the first week of the new year. I was holding off to see if we were going to be around after December 21st. Stupid Mayan's, no wonder they are extinct.

Craig Staley 6794 EIB Letter

YEAH - What he said. I use cotton liners under my rubber gloves. No problems. And I sweat like a pig I tried what you suggested, Velcro to the latex hand guards. IMHO it made them look odd.

I found rubber gloves at a Dollar Tree store in Pennsylvania. And they only cost a dollar. Or you could buy the rubber gloves with the rubber hand guards glued on from Shonnenshein (look in the For Sale thread) (( they are the BEST IMHO )) http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/9515-flexible-anh-white-rubber-hand-guards/ Or you could buy military surplus chemical gloves from these guys (if you have small to medium size hands) http://store.colemans.com/cart/rubber-gloves-chemical-protective-10-pair-size-small-p-1630.html

OK here is a “DRAFT†of my plan. FYI- The wooden insert in my photo needs to be longer. I am using: 1- Wood Dowel (sand down to slide easily inside Gun) 1- #6 wood screw with the head cut off 1- Piece of .25†thick clear plastic ( to build up the thickness of the bolt) 1- Doopy Doo charging handle with 2 sides sanded down. This is just a “draftâ€

Yes sir...that is exactly where I got my de-milled parts kit. In the USA it arrived in 2 days. Brings a tear to my when I see these weapons put to the cuting torch