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Pyro's INC build[*ATA]


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great job on the pauldron ! :D

 

the only problem you may have is the glue will not bond to the painted surfaces unless you remove all paint and primer from the areas you are gluing, if i were you i would trim all the parts then remove "ALL" of the paint from the seams/joints and re sand the areas before gluing. and paint all parts after it is fully assembled

 

trust me.. if you dont your armor will fall apart as soon as you try to wear it ;) the glue will bond to the paint not the plastic

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  • 2 months later...
  • 2 months later...

Thanks I love my helmet! If all goes well I should have this done tomarrow except for the trim on the cod, and butt/kidney. I ran out of trim and will have to order more

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100_0431.jpg

100_0436.jpgand is this to much weathering?

(it has been removed as i did not have time for to do the rest on the armor for a con this weekend)

100_0433.jpg

Edited by Pyro
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Too heavy on the black wash weathering. I think the battle scars in the red need to be blended/feathered a bit more. Try using a sanding sponge or maybe some #0000 steel wool to try to feather the paint edges of where the battle scars are in the red to make it look more random/scraped. To me it just looks like little tears in the paint job right now.

 

 

Square%20Sanding%20Sponge%2001-01102.jpg

 

SW%208pad--pack-a_thumb.gif

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if you used the krylon plastic paint it should remove easily with a little soap and water and steel wool or green scrub pad. that stuff doesn't really bond to plastic all that well as it is advertised, for weathering i find acrylic craft paints are the best (for drybrushing and blackwash). and just coat it with a clear acrylic craft sealer when done (clear matte finish looks nice). after sealing apply a coat of automotive wax and it will be just as permanent than any spray paint...

 

the benefit of acrylics is, if you make a mistake it can be washed off with soap and water and a paper towel, and it has no fumes so you can apply it inside without ventilation ;)

 

an airbrush also adds a nice touch....

 

remember only water based paints can be thinned with water, spray paints/model paints can not be thinned without a proper thinner or reducer

 

check out this site it has some good techniques

http://www.starwarsmodels.com/techweath.html

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looks bads$$ :duim:

 

i think if you do the scraping like tom suggested it will be perfect.. i just painted all the red areas then lightly sanded the battle damaged areas to scuff up the red

 

140_16.jpg

 

i also airbrushed some transparent black on areas to make it appeared scorched (but it is hard to tell in the photo)

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Looks like you might want to trim trim some more on that knee plate. But other than that it looks pretty good, apart from what was mentioned above about the sandpaper. :)

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  • 3 weeks later...

Looks awesome, but 1st of all, all the ab buttons need to be black.

 

Also My personal opinion is that you need more weathering (black acrylic wash). When you think about it, If the paint is that beaten up, it would most definitely have been in a few battles, and battles are dirty! :P I also think there is a little too much paint chipping on the helmet, sort of takes away from the design... but once again thats just my $0.02

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like Sean stated above the chipping does take away from the design,, i think if you filled in most of the chipped areas it would look much better.. i think it is the contrast of the super bright white coming out through the chipped areas that makes it look too noisy..

 

i airbrushed in 90% of the white chipped areas just to show the difference

 

before

100_0491.jpg

after airbrushing

Image1-1.jpg

i think you could easily backfill the white areas with a small paintbrush . if you used spray paint just spray a little in a jar (this can get messy :P ) decanting+spray+3.jpg

 

other than that you look ready for EIB :duim:

 

the only thing i notice is that there appears to be no door trim on the butt or ab plate.. but it may be i cant see it in the photos?? correct me if i am wrong.

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