Search the Community

Feedback from EIB was too lower the forearms, but I didn't mean to drop the biceps. I think getting them sitting properly should solve the forearms issue, but I'll be mindful of that when dressing next. In between would be great, I went back and looked at your other photos I tried getting my shins lower. I really couldn't. I have very large feet (size 14), and my feet really slope a long way. In this shot, the shins are basically digging in the top of my feet. The only way to get the to sit lower would be to trip the bottom of the shins (making a bit more of an arc). I might try a hot water bath to re-shape them a bit first. My shoes are not close to coming out when I walk, so I guess I'm wondering, do you think it's a CRL issue for the shins, or just a practicality issue with the boots? Shouldn't be an issue, wasn't mentioned at EIB so I'd go with them see if anything is said. I think you would have to increase the circumference, really only way would be to add larger cover strips, but as I say see what is said. For the butt, I'll see if I can tighten that up a bit The Han snap was placed with measurements from our armorer, as long as it's not an issue, I may try to submit with it rather that take out the snap and relocate. I didn't enjoy doing that with we misplaced our rivets. Obviously, I'll move it if I need to in order to get it right. I think you should be ok, may be mentioned I will address the drop-box issue. Sometimes it's fine. I usually just give them a bit of a tug, and they are ok, but I'll try to lengthen the straps a bit For the thighs, again, I was following our armorer instructions (he uses a spray paint can to make the shape) and said he does that for Centurion, which is why I did it this way. I will try to add a but of an edge to it. Curve on lower corner is current, just the top rivet corner should be sharp BUT I think you should be ok I've been having issues with the calves. I'm wondering if I cut them on an angle of something. Would I be able to put a shim piece behind them to bridge that gap from behind? I have a small piece of plastic glued on one side behind mine, works well and can no longer see a gap Been struggling with the TD clips. I will try to improve them for sure I'm worried if I curve the shoulder bells, it would actually make them look farther away. I have a big chest, and closing that gap has been my biggest concern. Biggest worry is that if I cut it, I can't go back. No issues, not everyone does them, won't stop approval

Handy thing that with the nylon plates, and yeah that one was a little rounder than I would've liked, so I'll be sure to mark them out for later ones. Speaking of cover strips are the strips for the legs thicker or are they the same width as the arm strips?

I use these for snap plate holders, especially when using nylon snap plates, clamp one piece on either side Just watch trimming the ends of the cover strips I noticed this one looked a little round, screen where just trimmed angled

I got to spend the majority of the day working uninterrupted Anyway I took the clamps and magnets off the forearm and it looked good so I stuck the final cover strip on and hung it up, along with one of the interior cover strips on the right bicep. After I hung those up I discovered a simple but excellent way to catch ABS waste, that being a tupperware. I also got to work on the legs, and trimmed pretty much the entire left leg, only thing I didn't get done was the top of one of the shin halves. I trimmed the top of the thighs and bottoms of the shins completely, I left the bottom of the thighs at at 5mm and the tops of the shins at 10mm, tomorrow I'll work on the right leg, and fitting. Today was quite productive. (Pictures have been added!)

After a long, annoying, and frankly wasteful day of work I figured I'd try and make some good of today by cutting and gluing the cover strips on the right forearm, I got 2/3 (I already had one done prior) glued so there's only one left after this, did some trimming as well and got more scrap bits for the paste/slurry (which I am keeping free from contamination) also set up a radio for some tunes while I'm working, so woo Not too much for today but hey, progress is progress.

Hey Jeff - I'm a fan of lexan shears for rough cutting (but it helps to have a couple different types/shapes of scissor because you will absolutely get blisters or hand cramps), then I smooth out my cuts with a belt sander and one of these big flappy wheels on a Dremel/rotary tool, and finish with emory boards for a smooth, pinch/bite-free, slightly-rounded edge. Links for inspiration, but shop around. Luckily on Anovos kits, the cut lines on the inside edge of the armor are easy and like 90% accurate if you're a standard sized trooper, so I usually mark them with a pencil, rough cut, then sneak up on my line with sanding. I only use a utility knife (AND A CUT GLOVE) and a metal ruler (with some magnets) to cut my coverstrips in straight lines really, which isn't needed for this kit (unless you make inner cover strips, which you should!). I know some people score-n-snap, but I haven't found many places on the armor that it's super practical/safe for me to do. Oh and wear a respirator. Hope that helps!

Exactly what Glen said. My cover strips are angled to follow the contour of the two halves of the leg pieces, much like yours (as well as the screen references for that matter). Thighs by difference armor makers come together differently, and thus there is variance in the angle of the cover strip ends. Also like Glen said, you may consider sanding the corners a bit to avoid poking or snags.

Should be fine (albeit entirely up to your GML), there is no requirement about the ends of the cover strips being straight or angled, you can take the corners off too if you wish. Also note the lower ridge seam filled, either ABS paste or Sugru

I hope I'm in the right place for this question. Will these front cover strips on my thighs be approved. Just wanted to check before I rip them off and replace them with the tops being straight across. I got crazy on the belt sander making them comfortable before I looked at a couple photos of the CRL. Thank you!

No it wouldn't sorry. Things like the cover strips need to be glued on to look right, and a layer of velcro instead, would not only not be up to the job, it would not look right and so not be clearable. This is why glues like E6000 are recommended as if a mistake is made of change required it's a reversible bond than you can remove and re do.

Looking good May be your photo but looks like you may have over trimmed your large ab plate, small ab plate looks like it needs trimming more. Also did you need as wide biceps as your cover strips are very small compared to the raised ridges. Should strap appears to be sitting high, you may want to tighten the strapping so they sit better on the rear. You can see the loose elastic under your shoulder strap better on the image below. Normally if they cover better you can also trim 1/2 the larger ridge but appears yours are just covering the backplate. Posterior is being pushed away from your kidney, V tabs can help this Note the elastic helps keep the shoulder straps stay flat. NOTE: As seen in the photos below, there are no large tabs on the rear of the shoulder bridges. This is not specifically mentioned in the CRL, but removing them is highly recommended if possible. V Tabs With a heat gun (or heat in oven) you bend strips of ABS plastic into the shape of a V, only glue one side and the other remains free to allow movement when you bend. Just helps stop the butt plate from pushing back from the back plate. Thigh ammo strip corner a little too much You may need to do some hot water bath work, your shin rears are not sitting very flat, left is not covering the velcro completely You can also post here for pre approval feedback before submitting to your GML

Hi Brains-trust - an update after I finally received the parts my kit was originally missing. I was nervously checking the tracking from the US for weeks. It took two weeks to scoot around the East coast of the US, then one day to San Fran and then next day it was at my house in Australia! New shoulder bells and button covers for my belt have made me (well, my kit) complete! I do have a spare ammo thigh belt that I'll replace at some point as I don't love the original. I *think* I have finally finished my kit and am about to submit for basic level approval, but if you see anything that needs fixing in the meantime, I'd really appreciate your feedback. Hopefully some quick adjustments I can make to get everything looking tip top. Going off the previous (much appreciated) advice, I changed over the cover strips on my shins to the correct sides. I adjusted my strapping as best I could to balance it out and it's feeling good to wear. Also heat bent the ABS belt to better contour to my body and it's a big improvement. Full Front - Helmet on Full Back - Helmet on *I'll get a better image for my submission with the velcro lined up, but it was an oversight for these pics. Left Side - Helmet on - Holster measurements were all checked. The leather is a bit softer than I'd hoped and gapes a bit, making the straps look crooked, but they'd 100% correct according to the CRL. Right Side - Helmet on Waste Up - Helmet off Action Shot *I probably should have thought of something more creative, but my wife laughed when I said that was a requirements, so we wrapped up the shoot. Any feedback would be awesome and hopefully I'll be joining your ranks soon! Cheers - Chris

If you reference the ROTK images you can tell it's outside over inside, it's pretty much the same with most costumes (same as the thighs) Note position of the cover strips too, closer to the outside

Normally we try to add any extra material on the rear as this is not seen as much by the public, but some add additional sizing to the front and rear, at the end of the day it would be best speaking with your GML as they will be reviewing the armor and may not allow larger cover strips, best to check . A thread on the subject of larger cover strips

The ridges are a tad wide towards the bottom. There can be a little width but normally closer to the top as you can see in this reference Personally I know it's a pain to rework but it will pay off in the end and look much better. Shouldn't be too hard to pry off the cover strips, once you have lifted an edge the pressure of pulling should release them.

I did end up contacting Walt, and he will send me a new ammo pack. While I waited, I thought that I’d run through the rest of the thigh construction. I cut 20mm wide strips for the fronts, and again like for the shins opted for an inner strip as well for strength. On the left thigh, I aligned the lower edges. The upper ones came together pretty close, so that was great. On the right thigh, I aligned the top edges instead. The outer half had a bit of a curve to it, so some of the ridge comes out under the cover strip there. I glued the front and rear strips on both thighs first before fitting. For fitting, I followed @gmrhodes13’s advice of a finger’s width spacing, and will do the refinement later when everything starts coming together. I cut and glued the rear strips at 20mm, but didn’t double that up in case I needed to make adjustments. I also added a small backing strip at the bottom front of the left thigh, to make it look more even. Lower left thigh, front, with backing strip in place: Back view: Then I smoothed all edges and strips of both thighs. I thought I was done. But now looking at the left thigh, there is a glaring issue that I can’t believe I didn’t catch before. The ridges are spread out! I don’t know how I could have measured so poorly, and in all the gluing not have noticed, but it is pretty obvious now! Is this going to be a problem? Now that I have doubled up with front and back strips, it’s going to be even harder to get them off if I indeed need to fix this. If so, any advice on getting the strips off?

Is it a safe bet that similar armor pieces to the R1 and Night trooper would follow similar build techniques for higher levels? IE for the Rogue 1 TK Biceps: OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Cover strips will cover both the front and back joints. Biceps are loosely held closed in the back with elastic, shock cord (bungee cord) or white Velcro and are designed to remain flexible.

Onward to the right shin. After trimming the front, cutting strips, and aligning the tops, there arises the length disparity noted in other WTF kits (outer half is longer). Also, the right shin is more of an oval shape than a round one. So I decided to glue both a front and back cover strip to the front of the shin, which afforded lots of strength against bending, then used a water bath to reshape. Here is a comparison (both shape and length difference on right shin are shown). Right shin is on the left, sorry. For the water bath, I had no vertical pot large enough, so I went horizontal with a roasting pan over the stove: My wife commented that it looked like I was roasting a turkey leg! After all, you can’t spell TurKey without TK! After getting the water just past 170 degrees, and a 30 second dip and reshape two times, I got the shape I wanted. Since the sides were coming together at an angle, I also found it useful to clamp them together so they would heat-form more aligned: I then fitted and trimmed the back edges, and trimmed off the excess on the bottom of the shin so it was nice and even. Then I glued the back strip and waited. Last thing to do is to decide on whether I want the extra inner backing strip to support the mating Velcro. I am a bit concerned that adding this inner strip only makes me have to open the shin even wider to fit it on (which puts more stress on the ABS), and I’m already opening it pretty wide.

Hi Tim, and thank you for your EIB application! CRL and EIB Application Requirements: All required photos have been submitted, and on behalf of the entire D.O. staff we are pleased to welcome you to the rank of Expert Infantry. Congratulations! Other-Armor Fit/Assembly; In this area we review observations made by your fellow troopers and the DO team. Some observations may lead to suggestions to improve the overall look of your armor, and please keep in mind that we consider both text (CRL) and pictures (screen caps/reference images) when reviewing submissions. The angle of screws should ideally line up with the back of the trap. The left side is pretty close , but the right is just a bit off. References The shoulder straps are floating a bit in the back. This should be an easy fix with a hot water bath. References Your left thigh is sitting a bit high when compared with the right side and will likely cause armour bite where it meets the cod piece. This is likely more of a strapping issue and should be an easy fix. The sniper knee plate may need to be shifted forward to make room once the thigh is lowered. This may be achieved with some padding at the top front portion of the shin armour. May also want to trim off the top of the front cover strips on the thighs as they will dig into the upper leg when walking. References *************************************************** Centurion Requirements: In this section we prepare you for our highest tier of approval. Because Centurion photos must show more detail than EIB, items pertaining to Level 3 might be seen there and not here and additional photos may be required. We try to point out all that we can from what we are able to clearly see, but the final accuracy is the responsibility of the trooper. Your right shoulder bell distance from the shoulder strap is perfect, the left could be moved in a bit. This can be corrected with a slightly shorter strap or by moving the snap further in on the shoulder bridge L3 CRL: There should be a minimal gap between the shoulder armour and the chest/back plates References Fill in gap at bottom of rear of the right thigh. You can use Sugru or ABS paste for this L3 CRL: Lower thigh ridge joins (front and rear) shall butt-up flush against each other. Any gaps must be backed with ABS or filled as not to be noticeable. References Your ammo belt should be brought up slightly to sit at the bottom of the lowest blue button. This can be corrected with a bit of Velcro to hold the belt in place. L3 CRL: The top of the ABS ammo belt should sit at or just above the bottom of the central and vertical abdomen button panels. References

Below is an amended Nightrooper/R1 CRL. Items known to not be on the costume, such as cod and posterior, have been committed. Please remember this is a work in progress and is not final. Required Costume Components The following costume components are present and appear as described below. General Construction Notes All costume elements are painted and weathered to match the specific visual references for this costume. At basic level, level 2 gold or gold colored leaf is not required. At basic level cracks can be painted on, but must be engraved to obtain EIB (Level 2). All Armor is constructed from a durable material such as Metal, Fiberglass, Resin, Sintra, HIPS, PVC, PLA, Vac-formed ABS, or similar. EVA foam & Similar materials are not appropriate. 3D printed components must have no visible print lines or joins. Armor is scaled proportionately to the wearer. Please Note: All damage must be 100% screen accurate if individual wishes to obtain EIB (Level 2) approval from Detachment. Helmet Helmet is based on the Rogue One/Anthology style stormtrooper helmet. The face plate is gold in color Vocoder (vertically ribbed chin detail) is painted black. Lenses are black or grey in color. Lenses sufficiently dark enough to obscure the costumer's eyes. There are two cheek tubes that extend from the ears. Two vent greeblies are present in the end of each cheek tube at the bottom front of the helmet. Trapezoids on dome and tears on the cheeks of helmets are grey. Rear traps and tears have vertical black lines. There are 2 red imperial cogs on the front dome of the helmet. The cogs are positioned symmetrically, one on each side. The cogs have light weathering. The cogs are rotated as per references. Light to medium weathering as per references. Cracking as per references. Cracks may be painted on surface in metallic gold paint. Gray and gold color patches as per references. Note: The helmet is accurate in detail and proportion to official references. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Eye Lenses are domed in shape. Cracks are engraved into the surface. Ear screws must not have a visible slot mark and be flush to the ear. Any gap between the ears and helmet will only appear to be a seam, not any bigger. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Face plate and gold patches are covered with gold colored leaf. Cracks are filled with gold colored leaf. Vocoder is tubular in nature with 7 vertical tubes. A visible gap must be present between the Vocoder and the helmet. The inside of each rear trap will be a raised area that is grey, with 13 engraved black vertical lines, hand painted lines like ANH are not permitted. The inside of each side trap will be a raised area that is grey. Neck Seal Black with horizontal ribs, fitted to the wearer, and extending from the base of the neck to conceal the entire neck. Under Suit Dark Burgundy, non-textured material, either one-piece or two-piece construction with no visible zippers or logos/designs. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Where visible shall be fully ribbed with all horizontal ribbing on the arms, legs, and back. The centre of chest and back may be mesh as long as it is covered by armor. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): All ribbing on knees, arms, chest, and back must be proportion to official references. Where visible around the neck the under suit is black. Shoulder Straps They may be affixed with Velcro or adhesive. Light to medium weathering as per references. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): These shall be inserted behind the chest tabs and into slots of the backplate. Shoulder Armor One on each shoulder. The shoulders are considered effectively symmetrical; but are not interchangeable. Left shoulder must be gold colored. Right shoulder must have 1 gold colored area per references. Light to medium weathering as per references. Cracking as per references. Cracks may be painted on surface in metallic gold paint. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Cracks are engraved into the surface. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): There is no swoop on the shoulder bell raised area. There is no elastic strap that wraps around the inside of the bicep. Gold sections are covered with gold colored leaf. Cracks are filled with gold colored leaf. Upper Arm Armor The front strip is bevelled and approximately ⅛" thick that does not extend beyond the bicep, and has a smaller cover strip layered thereon. Light to medium weathering as per references. Cracking as per references. Cracks may be painted on surface in metallic gold paint. Left side is approximately 3/4 grey as per references. Right side has 1 grey area that wraps the part as per references. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Cracks are engraved into the surface. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Cover strips will cover both the front and back joints. Biceps are loosely held closed in the back with elastic, shock cord (bungee cord) or white Velcro and are designed to remain flexible. Cracks are filled with gold colored leaf. Forearm Armor The front strip is bevelled and approximately ⅛" thick that does not extend beyond the bicep, and has a smaller cover strip layered thereon. Light to medium weathering as per references. Cracking as per references. Cracks may be painted on surface in metallic gold paint. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Forearms are loosely held closed in the back with elastic, shock cord (bungee cord) or white Velcro and are designed to remain flexible. Cover strips will cover both the top and bottom joints. Gold sections are covered with gold colored leaf. Cracks are filled with gold colored leaf. Hand Plates Roughly pentagonal in shape, the hand plates are mounted securely over the back of the glove. As an alternative to plastic, these may be made out of latex or latex-like material. Light to medium weathering as per references. Cracking as per references. Cracks may be painted on surface in metallic gold paint. Left handplate is gold colored. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Hand guards shall be made of plastic. Cracks are engraved into the surface. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Hand guards should follow the correct RO shape, ANH hand guards are not acceptable. A small indent in the front of the hand plate shall be present. Cracks are filled with gold colored leaf. Left handplate is covered with gold colored leaf. Gloves Dark Burgundy, leather or leather-like, enclosed fingered, non-textured, (normal leather grain/texture/lines are acceptable) fitted style. No buckles, straps, or decorative stitching. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Chest Armor Chest plate overlaps the abdominal plate. Light to medium weathering as per references. Cracking as per references. Cracks may be painted on surface in metallic gold paint. Right side must have 1 gold colored area per references. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Cracks are engraved into the surface. There are raised trapezoids at the top of the shoulder section beneath which the straps insert. The chest and back sides shall be connected by black extensions pieces. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Top pectoral out lines swoop correctly outward. Gold sections are covered with gold colored leaf. Cracks are filled with gold colored leaf. Back Armor There are raised trapezoids at the top of the backplate section beneath which the shoulder straps insert. The backplate continues past these trapezoids towards the top of the shoulder Right side There is a black square shaped greeblie with a circular gold recess detail Left Side There is a rectangular raised section. There is a black colored rectangular frame. There is a gray section on the left. There are 2 raised vertical bars that are gold in color. Lower section There is a black square greeblie below the right greeblie. There is a small vertical rectangle to the right of the black square greeblie. There is a small rectangular greeblie with rounded ends below the right side black greeblie. Light to medium weathering as per references. Cracking as per references. Cracks may be painted on surface in metallic gold paint. There is a gold colored section along the bottom of the armor as per references. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Cracks are engraved into the surface. Top of box wall has a trapezoidal indentation. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Bottom of backplate is curved and extends past abdominal back cover plate. Gold sections are covered with gold colored leaf. Cracks are filled with gold colored leaf. Abdomen Armor The abdominal armor consists of a one-piece corset design with a vertical opening centered on the back. The back opening is covered by a rectangular cover plate that is worn under the back armor. There are 3 vertical ribs centered on the front of the abdomen and two (one left and one right) ribs further spaced to each side of the center. There are two (one left and one right) angled (approximately 70 degrees) ribs on each side of the abdominal armor. There are two (one left and one right) angled (approximately 70 degrees) recessed ribs on each side of the abdominal armor behind the raised angled ribs that are black Any side shims added are to be added to the white areas of the armor. The center front detail consists of a raised rectangular panel. On the right half of the panel, there is a vertical column of 4 buttons approximately ⁷⁄₁₆" (11mm) in diameter. The bottom button is blue while the other three are grey. On the left half of the panel, there is a vertical column of raised evenly spaced horizontal gear teeth with a recessed trapezoid at the top of the column. The rectangular inside bottom of the trapezoid is black. The left front detail consists of a raised rectangular panel with an angled top. There is a vertical column of 4 buttons approximately ⁷⁄₁₆" (11mm) in diameter. The right front detail consists of a primary raised rectangular panel with an additional secondary raised rectangular panel covering the top ⅓ of the primary panel. There is a column of three thin horizontal evenly spaced raised lines across the top ½ of the secondary panel. The abdominal armor is accurate in detail and proportion to official references. Light to medium weathering as per references. Cracking as per references. Cracks may be painted on surface in metalic gold paint. The armor is gold in color. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Cracks are engraved into the surface. The right front detail panel is centered between the two outer vertical right ribs. The left front detail panel is centered between the two outer vertical left ribs. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): The abdomen armour is covered with gold colored leaf. The abdomen armor has two horizontal recessed rectangles centered above the center front detail panel and on each side of the center rib. All 8 Button details are recessed and bordered with a thin edge, only the recessed portion is painted. The center front panel column of raised gear teeth has only 9 teeth. There is a recessed edge (approximately ⅛" 3mm wide) along all four sides around the face of the center front panel The right front detail panel is centered between the two outer vertical right ribs. The left front detail panel is centered between the two outer vertical left ribs. There is a recessed edge (approximately ⅛" 3mm wide) along the sides and top around the face of the left front detail pane The abdominal armor back cover plate has two protruding tabs along the bottom that rest inside the back hard belt. Over Skirt There is a red leather or leather like waist band approx 2.5-3x the width of the belt. The top of the band is level with the bottom of the 3rd button down on the abdomen. There are 2 padded panels at the font, these panels are not rectangular and have a slight trapezoid shape. The body of the panel is leather or leather like. The front panels end approximately at the knee. There is a fabric panel behind the padded front panels. The bottom is pointed at approx 110° The panel ends mid thigh. Made from the same material as the rear skirt. There is a thin red border on the bottom edge. There are two trapezoidal quilted hip panels, these panels end mid thigh. The quilting forms a vertical diamond pattern. There are two rear fabric panels that form a half skirt. The panels are same length as the front panels. The panels do not wrap past the front of the hip. The panels over lap at the rear, left over right. The left panel is pleated to form a raised section over the overlap. All panels have a border and backing that matches the waist fabric. Kama is lightly weathered. Belt Is made from black leather, or leather like material. Sits in the middle of the fabric band of the Kama. There is a front rectangular section slightly taller than the belt and is rounded on the right side. There is a raised section on the left side which is pointed on the right end. A thinner top strip runs the length of the belt and over laps the front section, with a pointed ends, forming the detail on the front of the rectangular section. Is closed at the rear. There is a single popper shortly before the holster. Staps There are two straps that loop down from the belt. The straps are approx 2/3rd the width of the main belt Mount to a short strap at the rear that hangs vertically on each side, and is looped over the belt. There is a single belt loop to the left of the rectangular section, level with the strap. Holster Is made from black leather, or leather like material. Is worn on the right hip Hangs from a single wide loop. Has 2 black poppers just under the belt loop. Thigh Armor The thigh armor is mirrored for each leg and not interchangeable. The cover strips are beveled and approximately ⅛" thick that does not extend beyond the thigh and has a smaller cover strip layered thereon. The top edge of the thigh armor is unadorned, and the bottom edge has a raised detail that fallows the bottom edge contour. Light to medium weathering as per references Cracking as per references. Cracks may be painted on surface in metalic gold paint. Right Side The thigh is predominantly gray There is a gold colored section at the bottom of the thigh There is a white colored section at the bottom of the thigh The small ammo belt consists of 5 evenly spaced rectangle ammunition boxes and is installed on the bottom of the right thigh, there are no visible screws or rivets. The ammo belt it gold in color Left Side White in color There is a gold colored section on the outside of the thigh at the bottom. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Cracks are engraved into the surface. Thighs are loosely held closed in the back with elastic, shock cord (bungee cord) or white Velcro and are designed to remain flexible. Cover strips will cover both the front and rear joints. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): The bottom outside edges of the small ammunition belt are angled at approximately 45 degrees. Thigh armor is suspended by a black strap approximately 1" 25mm in width with a plastic side release buckle that is covered by black webbing or elastic that runs down the side seam of the leg. Gold sections are covered with gold colored leaf. Cracks are filled with gold colored leaf. Lower Leg Armor The greaves are mirrored for each leg and are not interchangeable. The top edge of the greaves has a raised detail that fallows the top edge contour. The bottom edge of the greaves flairs out to cover the top of the ankle and boots. The cover strips are beveled and approximately ⅛" thick that does not extend beyond the greave and has a smaller cover strip layered thereon. Greaves are loosely held closed in the back with elastic, shock cord (bungee cord) or white Velcro and are designed to remain flexible. Cover strips will cover both the front and rear joints. The trapezoid knee plate (sniper knee plate) is affixed to the top of the left greave and there are no visible screws or rivets. Sniper knee plate must be aligned with the vertical cover strip and the top raised edge detail on the greave and is accurate in detail and proportion to official reference. Light to medium weathering as per references. Cracking as per references. Cracks may be painted on surface in metallic gold paint. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Cracks are engraved into the surface. The sniper knee plate has raised detail that fallows the top edge contour. The sniper knee plate has 3 trapezoidal lugs on each side and 2 on the center bottom edge (totalling 8) of the knee plate. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Gold sections are covered with gold colored leaf. Cracks are filled with gold colored leaf. Boots Boots are above ankle height and the same style as the First Order TK. Chelsea type boots in the style of OT TK are not acceptable. Boots are all white and made of leather or leather-like material Flat black soles without a heel. Patent leather or high gloss is not permitted. Light to medium weathering as per references OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): There is no seam present on the front of the boot. The wearer's inner side of the boots have zippers and no side elastic. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Optional Accessories Items below are optional costume accessories. These items are not required for approval, but if present appear as described below. If adding in an accessory after initial approval, the item still needs to be submitted to local GML for approval before use. Captain Enoch SE-14 Blaster The blaster has an extended cone shaped barrel. There are 3 gold colored rings on the blaster 1 on the extended barrel 1 at the start of the barrel 1 at the rear of the blaster There is a narrow scope that runs approximately from the rear of the blaster to the top front sight. The scope is flared out at the rear Hand grips are white in color.

Progress!!! I finally figured out a way to glue the wide cover strip to the inside of the forearms! As noted a few posts up, I decided to use wide interior cover strips to increase the circumference of the forearm armor, as well as decided to glue the cover strip to one side of the joint before gluing the other side. I then figured I could finagle things to where the other side of the cover strip would be able to be glued in prim and proper fashion. Welp...the cover strip and the other side of the joint would not line up properly in terms of their angles, so I had to think things through further. Shaping is key in this issue, but I figured it would be easier to shape this cover strip if it were not attached to anything. I decided to cut the glue on one side of the cover strip to free it from the forearm armor. I then put on (the stove) a pot of boiling water and dropped the cover strip in the boiling water for 90 seconds. After fishing the cover strip out of the boiling water, I then put a small curve into the cover strip along the center of its length. This photo gives an idea: Now I had a cover strip with a slight curve, but needed to now glue it to both sides of the joint, all while accounting for the increased circumference that I want in the forearm piece... Spacers!!! I can cut spacers with a width according to the increased circumference (I remeasured and got 2cm)! But how do I keep the spacers in place to do their job? The forearm pieces are rigid enough that I only need a spacer on each end of the cover strip, and I can use the clamps to keep the edges of the spacers aligned with the edges of the forearm armor! Having the claps clamped on the spacer joints will keep everything in line! Here's what that looks like now that I have everything glued (I got a little glue on the spacer, so I'll have to cut that when I remove the spacer): Getting it all glued was a challenge, and the photo below shows that I got glue in many areas I did not want, but I'm not going to mess with it further for fear I could undo all of my work. Only one forearm is being glued right now. I'll glue the other one when I see the results of this forearm:

1) a good guide for assembling the belt (I want to know how far I need to cut it, where to rivet and any general dimensions). Varies from maker to maker 2) is there an approved way to make the thigh pieces wider? Right now getting both sides closed is almost impossible. Maybe a bigger strip in the back? Any photos of such fixes would be greatly appreciated! Larger cover strip on rear may be allowable, check with your GML as it is up to them if they will approve. If it's too big a gap you may need to add some more material to the sides on the rear. Some links in this thread: Third bonus question: for the strips that seem the armor together, is there a specific width they should be? I saw a pic from someone’s post using 15mm but I haven’t seen that written anywhere. Forearms and biceps 15mm Thighs and shin front 20mm Shin rear 25mm

Okay, last pictures for the night. Both biceps are together. I've added a cover strip to one side and I started adding cover strips to the forearms as well. So need to shape up the shoulder bells. Then I'll start work on the ab/kidney sections. We have two armor parties next week, so hopefully I'll have a bit of help to finish my helmet. I'm so close. Sent from my SM-N981U1 using Tapatalk

Continuing with the forearms, I removed all the return edges at the wrist ends of each side, then cut the front edges down so they could accommodate the 15mm cover strip. Then I taped the front sides and attempted some sizing. Since I wasn’t keen on the strength of the boundary between the curved and ridged edges, I opted to cut and install some inside strips as well: After 24 hours, the inside strip: Now I get to the HELP moment! The WTF forearm parts are not exactly the same length on the left side, so they don’t align. I had read several other threads, and asked the WTF FB group, and the advice was to line up the top (elbow) sides of the forearms, not the wrist side. Then trim at the wrist side. So I followed that. But somehow I guess the strip upon gluing slid up a bit, and now I’m left with an even larger alignment problem, as seen here: Is it OK to trim roughly where the pencil mark is? I am worried that trimming will make the outer side’s edge look bad. I hope this is not an irreversible mistake!

I finished the lower leg and thigh cover strips. Those were the last parts of the build for the body armor. It feels good to have gotten that done! I'll post full body pictures next.