james007bond

Looking good buddy, here mine at the moment...

Congrats dude, take your time, don't rush it.... and aim for that Elite Status.....

Thanks Alex.... It was nerve racking filing those teeth at he correct angle and then putting paint to plastic.... I was in a Hobbycraft shop for over 30mins just looking at the correct paint brushes to buy.... Anyway, i'm nearly there..... just have to paint the black border around the ears, put on the ear stripes (still deciding), mesh the frown and cut/mount my welders shield for the lens and then do the hovis... Then it's taking a few pictures and submitting them to my local GML for clearence..... Oh once done, then it's over here for EIB status as I have everything in place for that.....

Ian, you'll be fine buddy.... there are many good tutorials on this site.... Follow them religously and you'll be fine.... OK Guys, here's the vocoder... what a pain it was to paint that.. :shock: Anyway, here's what i've done..... Just the hovis to do now.... yeah Oh and the blaster....

Well, it looks like it's a black mark on the end then...... Just painted the vocoder this evening....... boy oh boy..... it's not easy to do.... Will post up a pic later....

Ok Guys, I can't decide where to put the black marks on the ears.. I've been looking at reference and build pictures..... the general consensus seems to be a black mark on the end of the ear vertical (on both sides), whilst other's have gone for a central mark (on both sides) as per the original troops on the Tantive IV. What gives? thx

Gents, AP lid has gone to the dentist today to have his teeth done..... The pictures show how I angled the teeth to follow the lines of the lid/lips... This is what took a lot of time with a needle file... Vocoder next...

Yup, it's known as the swiss cheese effect... and yes the ears will hide them....thank God... I was trying too hard to get the ears married up as I foolishly trimmed the ears first thinking that I knew what I ws doing. It's just a shame this is an AP lid I trialled on... hehe I do have some replacement ears being sent to me, just in case though....

OK boss.... can still get my melon on and it's comfortable.... even with the neckseal... I've just painted the teeth.... that's a milestone in my helmet build... Gonna let the paint dry and put another coat on tomorrow.... perhaps... So far no painted lip syndrome...... yeah...

Hi Mark I've taken a cm off around the neck line and about 0.5cm off at the chin line. What do you think, should I take another 0.5cm off the chin line?

Interesting point there regarding the shade 3 & 5 lens. I have a shade 5 welders goggles and yes indeed they are uber dark, indoors looks as though one is 20000feet under the sea..... I'll experiment and see what the black/dark grey nonslip mat does to the inside of mine... otherwsie i may use satin black plati-kote paint... According to their website they recommend a primer first (white I guess to stop any black frm coming through), then the first coat of black, then the second coat of black and then clear lacquer on top...

Got an email from John, new batch will be ready within 5 weeks.... go get em troopers...

One more question regarding the armour, many people seem to put return edges on their armour to give it the added thickness look... Would it be possible to do the same with your flexi armour, or would using a modelling/sealing iron be a bad bad thing? ta

Paul do you know of any UK stockists of white E6000? If so, PM me when you have a moment... Thx Shiv

I beginning to see the attraction of a black interior..... Over here in the UK, with have plasti-kote paint/spray, I think the way forward is to first spray or paint the inside of the lid with white primer, just to ensure there is an extra barrier between the black coat and the plastic shell... and then blast it with matt black paint.... and finish off with clear lacquer... I'm also toying with the idea of using non-slip mat material for the inside of my lid.... decisions, decisions....

One more thing, is my bumpy eye ok, or should I open it up a bit more? I've seen so many pics from starwarshelmets to the build threads on here that I can't decide whether to leave the bump as is or sand it down a wee bit more hence opening up the eye? As this is not an exact science comments from fellow troopers are appreciated... Mark, will trim off the back of the neck first and then take it from there.... I will make sure that at least I have a clean cut hole all around so-to-speak.... I'll post up pictures sometime tomorrow or more likely Monday when I'll get round to doing more work on the lid... thx

Hey Mark, will do... I think i'll use the trimming scissors as I have more control there.... I was gonna ask, what about the face plate, do people actually trim that back more? I could probably quite easily trim about 1/2cm towards the bottom of the vocoder and hovi tubes...... dunno, what do ou think?

Oh, i've lowered the brow a bit..... it nearly looks like a hero but in Stunt Config....

Thanks Guys I've bolted on the ears.... and it actually does look much better....phew... I can't believe how small the head hole is...... jeeez I can just about get my melon through it.... Tomorrow I will cut and sand away the bottom of the lid.... Any tips appreciated... If anyone can add some pics of the bottom of their AP lid, this will help me..... Thanks

Hi Guys, Those who know me on UKG, know that I'm currently building my AP lid. However, i've come across a small issue upon which I need clarity.. When I bolt on the faceplate to the cap, my face plate is off centre. I know the lid is assemtrical, but should the faceplate not be completely square or is this a feature of the AP mold....? Also it appears that the Cap itself is not completely symmetrical from the top... i.e., it kinda curves more in one direction... I think this is why the face plate is off centre... Anyway, the trapezoids on both left and right temples pretty much line up with the edge of the eyes... so am I being too paranoid? Thanks Here are the pics..

Paul, I presume, due to the thinness, the only way to bond the armour together would be with E6000? Plastic weld would I presume be a very bad idea? shiv

Hi, would appreciate to see a photo (as i'm not able to log into the 501st) if possible also can you let me know the shipping cost to the UK? thx

Hi John The plastic weld, does what it says on the tin... However I was able to pull my forearms apart (ouch) using a very sharp modelling knife, cutting into the welded plastic... bit by bit.... One thing though, it takes time and above all patience.... be careful you don't slice any of your fingers off in the process....!!! Oh another tool I used was one of those wooden spatula things.... the ones that doctor's shove into your mouth to keep your tongue down.... vere good to pry apart the plastic.... Then it was a question of sanding down using my Dremel and hey presto... job done....

Thanks, I have Novus 1 & 2, brought it from the local Harely dealer...

Buddy, I have both the Triktoys amp and the ROM/FX.... IMHO, it's simply no contest, the ROM/FX just rocks! But I do like the Triktoys too.... If you get the chance to see both in operation, do it... then decide....