TK-4510

me likes!!

Now if that isnt love I dont know what is. A dad sculpts not one.....not two....but THREE stormtrooper armor sets for his son. YOU ARE THE MAN!!!

Its about TIME!!! Congrats! Now you gotta get on the 501st forum and introduce your awesome blasters and goodies to the family

Thank you so much for the feedback Josh. I have updated the listing on the 5/16 inch x 1/8 magnets to more clearly show the size in the title listing. I have also responded to requests to offer larger magnets and now offer 3/4 inch x 1/8 N52 Rare Earth Magnets. You can buy them in a 5 or 10 pack. http://trooperbay.com/34-inch-x-18-inch-thick-n52-rare-earth-magnets/

Zap a Gap CA glue on my site : http://trooperbay.com/zap-a-gap-zip-kicker-combo-pack/

You can buy a helmet fastener kit on my website that has everything you need: http://trooperbay.com/stormtrooper-helmet-fastener-kit/

LOL!!!! All said, its still a rip. These "molds" need extensive work to even be functional. Its obvious that he went down the road and discovered that vacuuforming is not "easy", but actually alot of time and effort to achieve a quality product. So he's giving up. Those molds appear to be plaster or hydrastone too, which will not last very long before cracking or chipping.

The T/MC is a recast of the old GF molds. The ATA is a recast of the old TE/CAP molds. Although both are derived from the same original ROTJ molds they have been altered in different ways to be more accurate by their owners to appear to me ANH. Both kits are a little softer than their earlier generations, however that is not a big factor. ATA armor is a little thinner than T/MC but I think thats a GOOD thing. The ATA armor will appear a tiny bit more angular than the T/MC. The T/MC follows a more accurate line in its shape but is smoother. Both sellers are reputable. I dont know about prices, but I hear that the ATA is very low cost. Because both kits are screen derived they can be a challenge to assemble for the novice. Panels and such will not always line up when putting the armor together. Thats the nature of the beast. There are many builds on this forum for both kits. Both kits are specifically made for someone 5'10" tall and about 150-160 lbs, Enjoy the journey!

Maybe being near the wall has some effect on the plastic? Or could be because the cap n back is thinner plastic (once formed) than the face plate? Maybe its effected easier due to its thickness too?

dremel belt sander and fit, repeat. Also a piece of sand paper and an exacto knife to remove flash and finish off clean. I also have a template now which makes life much easier

I should chime in here and say that the listing needs to be revised. I have used CA glue with great success. With every hand guard I send out, I also send instructions to use CA glue. The important step to remember with my hand guards is to be sure and sand the back sides of the guards well with 60 grit sandpaper. If you leave them smooth nothing will stick to them They are not true latex either...Latex takes several days to cure. I have substituted with a similar rubber material that cures overnight. So I wouldnt advise using tire repair glue, I havent tried it yet...

I have decided to go back to velcro....But thank you very much for everyones input.

Yes. I wanted the set accurate but these seem like a real pain to take off as well as looking terrible....

I will try resewiing them without the fold over. Are these required for Centurion?

I have tried to emulate the inner elastic and hook design of the original ANH shins, but mine look like crap. For some reason you can totally see the hooks going into the plastic and the outer shin sticks out about 1/4 inch away from the inner shin. Any pics or advice you might have to help here would be great. Unless they just look like this for everyone. If thats the case I am going back to velcro....

Kydex is strong stuff and does not break....and one 4 x 8 sheet here is $120.00 - ABS is only $28.00 a sheet, same price as styrene:) I have seriously thought of switching over to Kydex. My plastics guy says that you can get better detail than ABS with 3 times the strength...Only problem is its not as glossy.. more like a shiny styrene

In my experience its not just light you have to worry about but heat as well. Recently I gave a helmet to a friends son for his birthday. He's a huge SW fan, so he put the helmet on a stand on his entertainment center about 6 inches away from his xbox-360. Within 2 months one side of the helmet was noticably yellowed. Apparently from the heat that the xbox was putting off. I also have seen this happen with armor where the hot air from central heating vents blows down onto the back of the armor while it was on display. The only way I can think of to keep armor from yellowing is to keep it in a cool dry dark place. I think even flourecent (SP?) lighting would damage it....

How wide is the elastic straps in the thighs?

Happy New Year!!!

Its great that you have the originals but with so many helmets out there including your ATA, I wonder why you would bother to get them. I am with everyone else here...other than the 2nd and 3rd generation lineage , how do these compare with your other molds?

Interesting, I was not aware that the shins were all outside parts. Do you have some pics of what your tlking about?

Probably Rustoleum High Performance Gloss White - If its pretty glossy OR Krylon Gloss White - If its less glossy Does it say TK-4510 in it anywhere??

A long time ago Paul had progress pics up but has since pulled all of them. He's worked on the molds for over 5 years now