TK-4510

I cant really tell what color they are but they are definitely flat. I never knew. I have only seen bubble lenses posted as well.

This guy has just fallen off the face of the planet!!! Where did he go?

The stunt ROTJ helmets had flat lenses

I have viewed the battle scenes on Endor and found several examples of the stunt troopers with flat lenses. All this time I thought the ROTJ lenses for ALL troopers were bubble. Cool, now I can do a ROTJ stunt Am I the first to have noticed this, or is this old news????

Looks good. The only thing I would say to look out for is the fit. Did you fit these bad boys before you started gluing????

Oh, I thought you were talking about not being able to pull it off and on easily. I wouldnt trim anything else off if thats what you are referring to. I dont think it would help anyway. As far as looking down, well,... welcome to troopin'! I cant tell you how many close calls I have had while wearing my armor. You basically cannot see anything below 20 or 30 degrees. `Children that are about waist height are almost invisible. You kind of have to bend at the waist when you look down. Assembling the armor with strips is the only way to go!

You can trim more of the neck, but remember that your rubber may end up being too short! By the way, it turned out really sharp man!

Wow, The $5.00 helmets I predicted a year ago are just around the corner!!!!

Fantastic. Nice job, everything fits nicely.

Ah! Thanks! I should have looked on jez site first.

Are you sure the screws arent just glued to the inside of the ears?? I would like to see the inside of that helmet. I may be doing a ROTJ helmet soon and I need to know for sure.

How are the ears attached???

Thanks man, I actually needed that right now.

There is an industrial safety supplier catalog at my work and I could have sworn I saw the rubber gloves in there for cheap!

I bought mine online form an art supply place a couple of years ago. The same place you bought your grey should have it I would think.

HIPS (High Impact Poly Styrene) lacks the amounts of Butadiene that ABS (Acrylonitrile butadiene styrene) has making it more brittle than ABS. HIPS also known as "Styrene" is a hobbyist friend and is easily formed with great detail on most home vac forming set ups (shop vac, table and the wifes oven). ABS requires a vacuum pump and a decent set up to get a good pull on the platen. They both have their advantages, but as far as strength goes ABS is stronger. That being said, I still prefer the TE2 armor because of its detail and accuracy. I will give up a little strength for better lineage. Now if Guns ever offers the TE2 in ABS??? Whoa!

Yeah, that looks good from this angle. Nice job on the eye too. By the way its Humbrol midnight blue 15...Finally got a chance to look!!!

I cant do that FX stuff ugh.... TE2 armor is mo betta

agreed Another point that needs to be made is that the TE2 armor is styrene and the AP is ABS. Styrene will require painting and is a bit weaker than ABS as far as flexibility goes. The AP is nice but not as accurate as I would like. MY personal preference will always be TE2. Guns being pretty cool is a big plus too. The TM is a fan sculpt that has captured alot of the nuances of ANH that the TE2, AP, Gino, and other recasts of the ROTJ original armor used lacks. You see the the ROTJ armor is all that we have, and is as close as we can get to the ANH armor. It was recast about 10 years ago and reworked to resemble ANH, but it really lacks a few minute details that need to be added back into it. So far the TE2 is as close as anyone has gotten to getting it right.

I messed up my first one too. The problem here really is the lousy instructions that come with the kit. I wouldnt use half that instruction manual to put together that armor. Rip out the velcro section entirely.

I think its Humbrol midnight blue, but I havent touched it in a while.... I will look when I get home tonight. And Just so everyone is aware... I figured out that there is no testors satin black in the bottle anywhere.... What I used in the tutorial was basically any satin black ENAMEL. No water based stuff either. I will take a pic of what I used when I get home.

Try this too possibly. I have taken a small 1x1 inch square of t-shirt material and soaked it good with super glue. Then just spread it over the back of the cracked area and work out the bubbles. In about 5-10 minutes it will be rock solid. I call it miniature fiberglass repair dont get that stuff on your fingers though!!!!

Try this too possibly. I have taken a small 1x1 inch square of t-shirt material and soaked it good with super glue. Then just spread it over the back of the cracked area and work out the bubbles. In about 5 minutes it will be rock solid. I call it miniature fiberglass repair dont get that stuff on your fingers though!!!!

Once you pop rivet the helmet together the parts will be a little bit tighter. The ears also take up the slack in this area too. trim the front of the ears pretty much by following the lines. Test fit as you go. The back of the ears are a different story. They need to be rounded off a bit more. Check out the tutorial I did and look at the back of the ears. As far as the left eye goes.... The inner part needs to be closer cut I think... Thew bottom a bit too. Mostly I noticed that the inner part needs a bit of meat taken off... Just a LITTLE. I could put it together for you for a small fee

That left eye could be cut a bit closer around the hump and on the inside a bit, but otherwise it looks good. Humbrol Ad Grey 5 but you can also use Testors grey #1138