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MikeTK1536

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Everything posted by MikeTK1536

  1. Never let that logo bother me. The one on the back of the neck is more noticeable. So far, I just blacked it out with a Sharpie.
  2. Paul is on the right track. But the Bankers clips will work just fine as well, and either E6000 or Gorilla Glue should work fine for attaching them.
  3. Well, from what we've read, the Stormtrooper was sculpted rather hastily and GL had some last minute input before it was taken away and molded for vac-forming. There were also a few changes made after the first Sandtrooper/Tunisia shoots. A lot can happen between point A and B, which probably accounts for many of the inconsistencies.
  4. I can only hope to achieve that kind of stern, military-like leadership that gets results. It has it's pros and cons, but I never want to see any detachment become paramilitary. It's just unnecessary. But, my grandfather is a retired Major General (2 stars), so you could say I have something to live up to.
  5. I don't think any of the Sandtroopers have that swoop, either. I also think that only one shoulder bell had the swoop on most the TKs, but there really was no consistency to who wore what and how. So, it's very possible that the TK you saw had on two shoulder bells that lacked the swoop detail. I'm sure Paul can elaborate further.
  6. I'll have to think about this. I'm already up for MEPD DL, and I was even nominated for Legion CO, which I respectfully declined. Make no mistake, these kind of leadership roles do require a lot of time and responsibility, not to mention a lot of technical know-how when it comes to working with the web sites, forums, etc. and finding folks who can assist with such tasks. I'm also a Forum admin of another Clone-centric forum, as well as my Garrison's forum.
  7. Wow... such high resolution!!! Thanks!!
  8. I can't recommend UnderArmor enough. For one, their quality, performance and comfort is unexcelled. I have two sets - hot and cold gear. I find the hot gear works exceptionally well in hot temperatures. I trooped once in almost 100 degree F July heat and was very comfortable. Be aware that a set of Underarmor will set you back at least $100.
  9. Excellent tutorial. Roger/Rocko is working on duplicating the same helmet, complete with all the paint chips and such. Folks might want to check out his thread on the MEPD
  10. Yeap. That particular Rustoleum is amazing stuff. But you must work with it exactly as the can says. Your results may very, take your time and let it cure.
  11. "All the insides of the plastic pieces have been brushed with a thick pasty epoxy. There's no way anyone could take molds from the insides as all the details have been thoroughly filled in. Also, all the bolts have been welded shut so that none of the pieces or components can be taken apart or removed without destroying the helmet." That's a clever idea, actually.
  12. Correct answer.
  13. you might've sprayed it on too thick. It's all too easy to do... I still do it sometimes. I've used it almost exclusively on custom parts for at least a dozen Sandtrooper back packs with fantastic results. Parts were a mix of HIPS, Tupperware, resin and other various plastics.
  14. I've assembled a few AP helmets for some folks, and have on request, painted the insides using Krylon Fusion Satin black. The end result is actually very nice. I liked it so much that I painted the inside of both my Clone helmets.
  15. FX, I believe has become a generic term for a particular style of armor. I think there are so many people on ebay and elsewhere hocking the stuff, that there clearly has to be some recasting going on.
  16. That helmet is nothing more than a SDS Battle Spec. You can tell because the mouth is a separate piece.
  17. ABS is nice for parts that take a lot of stress. But, for detail and accuracy, I'll take a HIPS helmet any day.
  18. I think this subject has been covered eleventy billion times.
  19. Never seen Spaceballs??!!! You must be a young one...
  20. This always seems to be the million dollar question... From a forming standpoint, HIPS is easier to work with when using a basic home vac-forming setup. It also pulls sharper details. However, it is not as durable as ABS in a gauge comparison. But, .125 HIPS is very strong, but at that gauge, you get very soft details. ABS is harder to work with from a forming standpoint, in that you really need a pro vac setup with a real air pump and large air tank. Why, you ask? If you've ever seen ABS pulls with crackling, etc. on them, it's because it was over-heated in order to work with a home vac setup (using a Shop Vac). There is also the moisture issue, but that takes this conversation in a whole other direction. For the most part, what you sacrifice using HIPS is durability, but you gain sharper detail. So, you have to ask your self, do you want detail or durability? For me, I like the sharp details of TE helmet made in HIPS. But, I'd like some of the body parts to be made in ABS, because they're going to take more strain. In an ideal, perfect situation, I'd take parts from AP, TE and TM made in ABS and HIPS to make the ideal Stormtrooper outfit.
  21. oh... you should replace the aerators, too.
  22. That's really cool!! Mainly because so few people do it at all, not to mention get all the details correct! Aside from the helmet not being symmetrical, everything else is spot-on.
  23. Great news!!
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