Jump to content

MakeNoiseMan

501st Stormtrooper[TK]
  • Posts

    195
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Everything posted by MakeNoiseMan

  1. Thanks so much!! I appreciate your time and feedback. The journey doesn't end here, I'll definitely keep tweaking as per your notes. Have a great day and thanks again!!
  2. ADDITIONAL PHOTOS Ab/kidney connection, left side (with me in the photo ) Ab/kidney connection, right side (closed tighter, and tab'n'slot painted black) Thermal detonator, back (sticker removed) Left hovi-mic tip, visible white interior Right hovi-mic tip, visible white interior Thanks thanks!
  3. Thanks! Will do! Thanks so much for your time, I will get those updated asap!
  4. Thanks guys!! Updated with photos of boots.
  5. Hi, everybody! Thanks for taking a look at my submission! Name: Brendan May 501st TKID: TK-61596 FISD Forum Name: MakeNoiseMan Garrison: Canadian Garrison, Vindicator Squad Mandatory Information Armor = Authentic Props Helmet = Authentic Props Blaster = Quest Design Canada Optional Height = 5'10" Weight = 195lbs Boots = Imperial Boots Canvas belt = Authentic Props Hand Plates = Authentic Props Electronics= Ukswrath's Hearing Assist/iComm + Aker amp/Henry's Helmet Fans Neck Seal = Geeky Pink Gaskets Holster = Authentic Props Link to EIB application: On to the photos! FULL BODY Front Back Left side Right side ARMOUR DETAILS Ab/kidney attachment, left side Ab/kidney attachment, right side Butt/kidney, not fixed Hand plates Hand plates, flexible Shoulder bridges, front Shoulder bridges, back Back/chest connection, left side Back/chest connection, right side Thigh pack attachment, left side Thigh pack attachment, right side Knee plate Knee plate, left side Knee plate, right side Belt/drop boxes, back Left drop box, back Right drop box, back Cod/butt attachment Cod rivet Butt snaps Interior strapping Kidney plate notch, left side Kidney plate notch, right side Wrist end of forearms Boots, left side Boots, right side Boots, back HELMET DETAILS Front Back Left side Right side Hovi-mic tip detail Left hovi-mic tip Right hovi-mic tip Lens colour, back-lit S-trim *Note: In this photo, the S-trim is on backwards. I have fixed this, but the S-trim is glued on now so I am hoping this older photo will suffice. Current S-trim (glued on) BLASTER DETAILS Left side Right side D-ring ACCESSORIES DETAILS Neck seal, front Neck seal, back Thermal detonator, front Thermal detonator, back Thermal detonator, screws Holster attachment Thanks for your time! If you need any more photos, please let me know, I'll be happy to provide them.
  6. Thanks guys!!
  7. Hey everybody! Move tube stripes closer to cheeks The paint dry, I peeled the stencils off and cleaned up the messy bits. I think my first tube stripes were a little nicer, and I may return to these and fiddle with them further, but at least they are the correct distance from the cheek! Extend paint job on tears This was a quick one! I just painted some extra black around the edges, and then filled in with some grey afterwards. Done! And .... that brings me to the end of my list! Now of course, we all know a kit can always be improved further. I appreciate the continued feedback you guys provide. It is my intention to implement these additional tweaks, however small, down the road (like when I have the cash for more snaps. ). For now, though, I am excited to get my L3 application submitted, so I'll photograph my suit as it is now. But I do still welcome the input and critique! Even tiny steps toward greater screen accuracy help sell the magic at a troop. TO-DO LIST BEFORE L3 SUBMISSION General suggestions: Remove excess paint from one frown tooth Move tube stripes closer to cheeks Extend paint job on tears Make sure forearms aren't twisted in submission photos Remove excess paint from ab buttons Remove excess plastic from ammo belt Squeeze D-ring on E-11 to proper dimensions Centurion-specific suggestions: Swap Ukswrath's hovi-mic speakers for AP-supplied mic tips Bring shoulder bells closer to chestplate/shoulder bridges Correctly align drop-boxes to the edges of the ammo belt My goodness, it is satisfying to cross items off of lists. No matter what the list is! With my to-do list completed, I added a final step and cleaned/polished my armour up for submission photos. After all the work, may as well look our best! Submission time! I am going to visit my parents this weekend and they are going to help me take the photos, so my application won't be in until Sunday. All the same I am very excited to finally be reaching this "last step" of TK armour creation (again, though, as if it's ever really finished). As always, thank you EVERYONE who chimes in and supports build threads. From beginning to end you troopers have made this such a wonderful experience. Rock on TKs!!
  8. Hello again! I accidentally left something off my to-do list from my EIB feedback: General suggestion: Remove excess plastic from ammo belt Remove excess plastic from ammo belt Trimmed that puppy down, sanded, and we're good to go. Squeeze D-ring on E-11 to proper dimensions This is the smallest I can squeeze it—I think it is now good enough, though. It used to extend wider than the butt of the gun itself, but now it's within the dimensions. Bring shoulder bells closer to chestplate/shoulder bridges I had previously made shorter elastic straps to connect my shoulder bells to my shoulder straps: In addition to that, I sanded down the inside of my shoulder bells further so that they would sit closer against the biceps, and by extension, reduce the gap between them and my chestplate. Here is a comparison (the inner bell is updated, the outer bell yet is not): Happy with the result! That just leaves a bit more painting. Almost there! TO-DO LIST BEFORE L3 SUBMISSION General suggestions: Remove excess paint from one frown tooth Move tube stripes closer to cheeks Extend paint job on tears Make sure forearms aren't twisted in submission photos Remove excess paint from ab buttons Remove excess plastic from ammo belt Squeeze D-ring on E-11 to proper dimensions Centurion-specific suggestions: Swap Ukswrath's hovi-mic speakers for AP-supplied mic tips Bring shoulder bells closer to chestplate/shoulder bridges Correctly align drop-boxes to the edges of the ammo belt
  9. Hi, everybody! Hope you all are doing well. The time has come for me to stop procrastinating and submit for L3. I have been having so much fun trooping, I sort of forgot that my suit wasn't quite finished yet! Seriously, though, I am thirteen troops in and am having SO much fun. This whole journey from construction to costuming has been one of the greatest rides of my life so far. Without further ado, here is a compiled list of the feedback I got on my EIB application. General suggestions: Remove excess paint from one frown tooth Move right ear further back and correct screw alignment of ears Move tube stripes closer to cheeks Extend paint job on tears Make sure forearms aren't twisted in submission photos Remove excess paint from ab buttons Squeeze D-ring on E-11 to proper dimensions Raise Hengstler on E-11 Centurion-specific suggestions: Swap Ukswrath's hovi-mic speakers for AP-supplied mic tips Bring shoulder bells closer to chestplate/shoulder bridges Correctly align drop-boxes to the edges of the ammo belt Pretty manageable! A few have already been taken care of, even. However, there are a couple of items that I am going to remove from the "general suggestion" list for now and hope that I can still qualify for Centurion. The first is the placement of my ears. As detailed throughout my build, my ears were a real struggle-point. Because of this, my bucket isn't super pretty underneath them. Changing or moving my ears will be a pretty complicated endeavour, and I think I will save that for a last resort. If they are a hold-up from L3, then I'll get er done, but if they are acceptable as they are, I'd rather leave them be. The second is raising the Hengstler counter on my E-11. The whole blaster came as a resin-cast one-piece, so I am reluctant to start cutting it apart. If it qualifies for L3 already, I'd rather not compromise the integrity of the construction. If not, I will cross that bridge when I get to it. With two items set aside, I am ready to start tackling the remainder! Remove excess paint from one frown tooth Here is the tooth in question. Presto! Move tube stripes closer to cheeks Here we can see my previous tube stripes sitting too far away from the cheek (Shame! Shame! Shame! Ding ding ding). Washed them away with mineral spirits and Q-tips (they look like my tears). And boom! Quick wipe with paper towel and the tube is squeaky-clean once more. It looks so naked now. My new stencils, correctly spaced a No.2 pencil's width from the cheek, and with the "leaning" stripes near the chin. A coat of white paint to seal the edges (which I forgot last time—not a fatal mistake, but will save a ton of time cleaning them up!) and then some tastey Humbrol 14 Gloss Blue. I still have a couple of coats to do, I'll cross this one off once it's %100 done. Remove excess paint from ab buttons Donezo! Swap Ukswrath's hovi-mic speakers for AP-supplied mic tips Easy switch. I will re-install Ukswrath's speakers for trooping because they are awesome. AP's mic tips are great, but needed the white paint along the rim. Correctly align drop-boxes to the edges of the ammo belt This one I corrected a while ago, as seen here in this photo with my hero Weird Al. And that's where we are so far! More to come. TO-DO LIST BEFORE L3 SUBMISSION General suggestions: Remove excess paint from one frown tooth Move tube stripes closer to cheeks Extend paint job on tears Make sure forearms aren't twisted in submission photos Remove excess paint from ab buttons Squeeze D-ring on E-11 to proper dimensions Centurion-specific suggestions: Swap Ukswrath's hovi-mic speakers for AP-supplied mic tips Bring shoulder bells closer to chestplate/shoulder bridges Correctly align drop-boxes to the edges of the ammo belt
  10. Woohoo! Congratulations on both your kit order and your health! Welcome to FISD. Post lots of pictures! Tons of great people here with expertise to share. And we all like watching TKs getting put together. Have fun and enjoy the build!
  11. Huh! I never noticed that difference in the shins before. Maybe its an Anovos vs AP thing. Or maybe my shins are backwards. Either way, Ukswrath is the guy to listen to!
  12. Looking gooood! Wrist return edges (or more specifically, lack thereof) are perfect. Those shins are right! Admittedly I did second guess myself and went to check my own shins, but yes, you hve them lined up properly. As far as those little thigh gaps/cracks, as far as I know you don't have to do anything to them and you'll still be fine for all levels of approval. If you want to tidy them up, I hear ABS paste is a popular choice. Personally, I used PlasticWeld, let it dry, sanded and painted it enamel white. I'm also considering making mobility cuts in the back of my shins and thighs, which renders the back gaps non existent anyway. Something to think about!
  13. Looks great!! Nice work on those cover strips. I found the thighs to be one of the harder parts, yours turned out beautifully! Looks like you've still got some return edge left on your biceps and forearms, at least on the elbow-side—you may find that uncomfortable, return edges can dig into the skin something nasty. Ultimately it is your call—the "thicker armour" does look cool—but many troopers elect to remove most, or even all, of those edges for the sake of mobility and comfort. You certainly don't need any return edge on the "outer" biceps, because the shoulder bells will be covering them anyway. The only return edge that needs to come off for accuracy's sake is the wrist-end of the forearms, which from earlier posts it looks like you have taken care of. I can't quite tell in these recent photos but I'm sure your next round will show em off. Keep it up, trooper!!
  14. Nice work, future squad-mate! I don't have anything to contribute that hasn't already been said. Slide the dropboxes outwards a little, maybe shorten your forearms a bit (cut away from the elbow end, if needed). I'm also seeing some overlap with your buttplate and your thigh—you may want to trim the buttplate back, or the thigh edge down, to prevent pinching. The backplate does look elongated - maybe you could trim some off of the top/shoulder section and bring the whole piece up a little. It shouldn't overlap with your kidney plate—which, speaking of, is also much taller than necessary. I can't see from your photos - how does it align with your ab plate? The two should line up, ideally. Trimming some off of the ab plate will also probably help mobility and prevent armour bites! Here is a photo of mine for reference. Good luck! I look forward to trooping with you.
  15. Hi there! Sorry I never saw your post, I must have missed the notification. I used spray-on Plasti-Dip to darken the helmet interior. it was four coats if I recall correctly. As for the lenses, mine screw in and out with chicago screws, so I was able to remove them entirely—if your lenses are mounted in permanently, though, I'm sure you can cover them with painter's tape or something similar! Plasti-Dip peels off really easily once dried, so even if some did get on your lenses I don't believe it would be a big deal. You may have already found these answers but I figured I'd pipe up anyway!
  16. Welcome to FISD and congrats on placing the order! Now comes the hard part... waiting. There's a wealth of great threads and build advice to read on here in the mean time. You could also start collecting your soft pieces like neck seal, undersuit, etc. I'm not sure what all the RS kit comes with, but there's a great supply list here: Have a GREAT time!! Keep us posted and ask plenty of questions, even before BBB day. It'll be here before you know it!
  17. Yep, I too screwed the AP clips on the TD just as they are, and added the little bend like Wook suggested. They’ll do just fine! Keep it up!! Glad your forearms are feeling more comfortable. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  18. Congratulations, you look AWESOME!! Small nitpick - looks like your undersuit may be bunching out a little between your shoulder bells and chest plate. Not a biggie, but a tighter shirt would resolve this Rock on, trooper!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  19. Hi Jared, welcome to FISD! You're off to a great start. The research ahead of time is invaluable and keeping an up-to-date build thread will let all these fine folks guide you and your kit to screen-accurate greatness. Post lots of pictures!! Your lid looks real good. Rat is correct—as an ANH TK you'll want to remove the paint from the edges around the frown and leave only the teeth painted. Additionally, the black paint trim around your ear squares could probably be a little thicker, and I for higher levels of approval you'll want to paint one of the ear bumps black (either the first or last one). Here's mine for reference: Have a great time with your build!!
  20. Exciting stuff!! Post lots of pictures. We’ll be here! Have fun! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  21. Helmet tweaks look fantastic! Nice nice work. :-D Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  22. Hi Rob, welcome to FISD! Yeah the frown looks like it could use some more paint. Not a biggie! Enjoy the build!! We'll be here.
×
×
  • Create New...