TheRascalKing

There is no such thing as an approved vendor (nomenclature is important as to not imply that armor from any vendor will automatically be approved) but a few that have been vetted to provide consistent, high quality product. Lots of great makers aren't on our lists either. There are only two makers of full Rogue One style TK armor at present - Jimmiroquai out of the Phillippines whose fiberglass armor is very accurate, and 850 Armor Works out of Florida, whose ABS armor is much softer in detail due to the material and less accurate, but improved with a recent update. WTF appears to be creating molds for kits in the future, but the jury is out on quality until complete. You're correct that there's no way an OTTK would pass, even at basic for this costume. Just too many differences.

Congrats, trooper! That was fast!

It looks an awful lot in these pictures like that front handle is affixed, and not "movable" as per the L3 CRL.

Please consider this CRL request withdrawn for now, thank you.

I have provided plenty of reference material, including full 360* views of the costume. CRLs have been written and approved off of far less. I have written a CRL that I believe captures the details seen in the reference material. I cannot provide reference of something that does not exist. While the TFA FOTK CRL has helped take a ton of work out of the creation of this NEW, separate CRL, the fact remains that it is a new, separate CRL. And if something is not able to be visually confirmed via reference material, I will not be including it in my CRL. Some things I can bend on, but I refuse to require someone else to meet an unfair standard. If the CRL is unable to be approved by Detachment Staff as is or with minor additional tweaks confirmed via actual reference (as with the TD end cap) and is unable to move forward, I will work with the LMO office directly or I will withdraw it from consideration. Thank you.

I agree with your observations - the ab sides are seamless, but that's never been been the point of my argument. Rather, that the requirement for them to be seamless should be a L2 or higher point of scrutiny. Again, I won't hold up the CRL if leadership is steadfast in their belief that this is important enough to keep it as a blocker at Basic. I also agree with the TD observation and as such, the phrase "A white stripe is present around the end of the cylinder that extends slightly onto the circular surface." has been struck from the TD section in proposed CRL in the OP. All black TLJ-style end cap it is. As to the blaster, I agree those observations can probably be assumed based on the blasters in use by other characters, but it would be difficult to provide reference that this is the case for Lt. Gauge specifically, as much of the reference shared is for the playable character models, not his. I never saw lights on his blaster, so I don't see the need to require them. Gauge is only ever seen carrying a single F11-D. The reference shared is of the playable game character, not Gauge, so not technically relevant. There isn't a question of "realistic" or "game render" version. There is only one version of this character, and I am using reference from the game to recreate it. If a detail is unable to be verified using game assets, it shouldn't be included. There is no reason to hold people to an artificially high standard that we are unable to prove using reference. It's pretty simple. If I struck something, provide reference from the game that proves me wrong. Again, there is no reason to make this more complicated than it needs to be. I'll give you that upon review, it does appear that the glove palm stitching is a contrasting color and has been updated in the OP. If you disagree with other points, please provide reference as below. Plenty of cool helmet internal pics over here, but yes - let's keep this on topic. While we need to be thorough in our research, I've provided some pretty excellent, full 360* reference that is pretty clear. There were some good observations that have led to change. And there has been repetition of opinions that have not brought value to the discussion. I'd hate for excessive scrutiny by staff to be viewed as personal attacks or as attempts to derail or hinder the creation of this CRL. It's not like FISD gets new CRLs as often as other Detachments, and most others are significantly more "pro-CRL creation". Let's ensure feedback stays constructive and is driving towards the successful completion of the CRL. My intent is to make the files and templates for the costume add-on pieces available for free to the FISD after approval in case anyone else wants to make this costume, but also - I'm moving houses soon and my son is due at the end of November. If this isn't completed timely, it's likely that it simply won't be. Let's get any other constructive CRL feedback addressed so I can take final photos, and get this done.

Any changes to the base TFA CRL were noted in my original post with items that are added in green and items that are removed being struck through. If the LMO has any concerns with the items I've struck through, I encourage someone to submit reference material from the game that clearly shows the detail in question. Otherwise, I have removed them because they are either not present or are unable to be verified with reference to my knowledge. I added back the ab sides being seamless - while I disagree with this being at the Basic level, I won't hold up the CRL to fight for it.

Welcome! You'd potentially be joining the Southern California Garrison, Los Angeles Squad, so please join our Recruits group and forums as a guest for more info and local assistance. https://www.facebook.com/groups/1737036373029724 https://www.southerncaliforniagarrison.com/forums/

There are some pics in my thread that may help!

Some reference shows it wider, some narrower - I went wider. I did actually trim every single panel to increase the gaps and help with that angle during my rebuild, but could only do so much before the glue lines became visible in the black space, and it looked awful. So the pauldron is not changing. We're in too deep. Maybe in a future V2 or something, but I already disassembled it once and it can't happen again. The panels are way too solidly glued on now and removing them would destroy the leather underneath. It simply can't be done without starting over, which I am not going to do. So while I appreciate the opinions on that specific topic - move along, move along. I'll add some weathering to match the reference after the base TFA is approved first. Just wanted to provide an update so the CRL work can be scheduled within reason. No promises, but it shouldn't take more than a few weeks to finish the ab boxes and belt, then take photos.

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Considering the production and design tools available at the time and that it was hand-sculpted? Absolutely. And this is one wonderfully preserved. But also, the true OG suits were haphazard messes. Our Centurions are a laughably high standard of idealization lol

Stirred up some conversation over on the Facebook already, but figured this deserved a thread over here too. A screen matched Hero Stormtrooper costume from Star Wars - A New Hope (1977) has recently come up for auction, and the sales post contains some excellent photos of 1 of only 3 known surviving Hero suits/helmets out of the 6 made for the film. It is pretty much complete and in absolutely gorgeous condition. Enjoy. Per the Auction's description: Original Screen Matched Complete Hero Imperial Stormtrooper Costume from Star Wars: Episode IV - A New Hope (TCF, 1977). Vintage screen matched original Hero Stormtrooper costume constructed of vacuum-formed ABS plastic components. This complete hero style helmet features a one-piece green bubble-shaped lens, original elastic chin strap, original mic-tips, original rubber brow and neck trims, and hand-painted details. Complete armor components include torso assembly (chest, back, abdomen, kidney, butt, and 2 ribbed shoulder connectors), left and right shoulder bells, left and right arm assemblies (biceps and forearm armor), left and right thigh armor, left and right shin armor, belt assembly (layered-stitched canvas fabric belt, ribbed front plate, 2 ammo drop boxes, and distressed leather holster), thermal detonator canister, and white brush-painted chelsea boots. All armor components are assembled and held together with original metal hardware and elastic strapping. Also included is it's original off-the-shelf thin black leather belt which was used to attach the thigh armor to the actor. This belt is the only known example in existence to survive the entire production. Black spandex bodysuit added for display. There were only 6 hero style helmets made for the film, making this helmet only 1 of 3 hero helmets known to still currently exist. After filming was completed in England, this being 1 of 2 of the best condition remaining costumes were hand selected and sent back to the United States for additional pick-up shots such as the 'space trooper' standing at the entrance of Death Star Docking Bay 327 as the Millennium Falcon is drawn in by the tractor beam. This particular Stormtrooper is prominently featured throughout the film and can be screen matched sharing scenes with both Princess Leia as well as Darth Vader. It was also featured in the Donny and Marie Star Wars Special (1977), the Star Wars Holiday Special (1978), and the 50th Academy Awards (1978). This incredibly rare and special Stormtrooper costume rich with history is the most complete and best condition example known to exist from the first original Star Wars film (1977). Exhibits age, production wear and handling, discoloration, scuffing, small cracks, crazing, and minor paint loss. Comes with a COA from Heritage Auctions. Suit Gallery Helmet Details It has been confirmed to match the suit seen throughout the film, as shown: Link to Auction HERE

I'm out here in Orange County, CA, USA. Unsure how up to date it is, but you may find @11b30b4 's thread helpful. https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/45105-rogue-one-tk-builds-roster/

Oh I do see that now! Clips should be facing forward, correct. Appreciate the tip and will label better!

Cod and forearms are from Imperial Surplus and are TFA version... Spoilers

First nearly-full suit up! Belt and ab boxes are next, along with some fine tuning, but I'm pretty happy for its first time being worn! Grabbed the wrong helmet on my way out of the workshop, oh well. More updates soon.

I'm not done yet, but in short, yes.

Popping in with an update just in case anyone was worried I'd given up.... Not this time. I've been prioritizing getting stuff done over posting about it, but have been taking photos along the way. I've had setback after setback with first attempting unsuccessfully to slurry weld my parts together, then to fill and paint them. It's been a journey of constant frustration to meet my own high standards, frankly. My enthusiasm for the project has come and gone, and coupled with extreme heat in my garage workshop, an impending (but constantly delayed) move-in date to the home we just purchased, and my first child set to arrive at the end of November, progress has been sporadic. However, the pressure is on to figure this out and finish. I've been going through and adding additional photos and info in many of my previous posts, and will have several more coming, chronicling the trials and tribulations that have got me this far - ready for my first full suit up once it cools down this weekend. More to come. We're getting there...

This has been asked and answered a million times (use the Search function!), but remains a hill I will die on. Rubber gloves are awful and the only time I ever wear them is for Centurion photos. I troop in Southern California where it is is currently 95°F/35°C regularly and I have literally seen troopers take off their rubber gloves and POUR sweat out of them. Adding cotton inner gloves to just soak up the sweat is ridiculous to me. I can assure you that average fans (and even confirmed our LFL reps) absolutely do care about your gloves, so this is one where comfort and heat safety trump L3 accuracy all day, every day. The Nomex gloves are better, but still quite thick and I don't like the leather palm and strip that is on most of them (and glaringly inaccurate). I wear the most simple, thin, breathable all-black gloves that I can find. At present, those have typically been "running gloves", which can be a bit challenging to find without logos or adornments, but the below are a similar to what I currently wear and something similar may be available in your region. Unigear Lightweight Running Gloves Make smart choices, stay cool, wear rubber for L3.

Congrats, trooper! Tracker updated.

Welcome back, brotha!

IMO, get the Keep Trooping ones (echoing - order a full size up), or Crow Props if you have weird shaped/sized feet (send Gio measurements).

I'm on a good one and may bust this out into its own thread, but the next two are for once you're ready to glue. I'm sure there's another supply list thread out there but some of these are specific, and the links are current. If you are a first time builder, I STRONGLY recommend you use E6000 glue and utilize interior cover strips first during your build. CA glue has its time and place, and pros who can get it right on the first time often swear by it, but E6000 is the correct choice for this armor. The downside is that it does take time to dry and therefore you need to clamp your pieces together firmly for best results. Spring Clamps FASTPRO Nylon Plastic Spring Clamps, 4 sizes - $18.99 USD on Prime for a 12 pack at time of post Spring clamps are awesome and easy to use for the first half of your build when you're gluing in your underside cover strips, and for the ends of your joined pieces. It's nice to haver several and a few different sizes to suit your needs. Magnets N52 Neodymium Rare Earth Magnet Discs, 18x3mm - $65.00 USD with free shipping on eBay for 50 at time of post Clamps are cool, but will only get you so far once you start joining complete pieces together. To help clamp your coverstrips tight, I recommend N52 rare earth magnets, and have found that the 18x3mm are usually the perfect size and strength for armor building. The link above is the cheapest I've been able to find for the VERY SPECIFIC magnets that I like to use, but these are simply the best I've found. But BE WARNED - these magnets can and will jump over a foot to come together, and can shatter and throw sharp pieces that can and will cut you. Many times, I have also been pinched and caused blood blisters or other skin injury. These things are powerful and brittle, and DO NOT MESS AROUND. Always place them very intentionally, and I like to test and alternate the polarities while placing them in a line - that way they are always pushing AWAY from each other, and not tempted to pull together and stack. Remove them after 24 hours just as carefully. I sometimes double up for areas that need a little extra persuasion, and always scuff the surface I'm gluing with sandpaper or an emory board for maximum mechanical adhesion. As for how many you need - I've found that once I'm done trimming, my build is often only limited by how many pieces I can have simultaneously gluing, which is limited by how many clamps and magnets I have. So buy as many as you can reasonably afford - I recommend 50, as you undoubtedly will lose a few to cracking.