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TheRascalKing

Imperial Attaché[TK]
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Everything posted by TheRascalKing

  1. Custom from Crow Props is probably your only choice in that size that I'm aware of... Good luck! https://crowprops.bigcartel.com/product/jhodpur-tk-white-short-boots
  2. Relevant recent pic. Use hella magnets. I also recommend sanding your edges on a belt sander, with a sanding block/emory board, and/or sheet of sandpaper clamped to a flat surface. The cleaner and straighter your edges are, the easier the gluing process will be. Utilizing underside coverstrips first makes the build so much easier, if longer with E6000 by creating a little shelf you glue the other half to. It's worth it, but use every magnet that you can afford and work slow to get the best results.
  3. I think it's challenging to compare directly when the stock photos are at slightly different angles, but I can't imagine them developing a new mold for this variant helmet.....
  4. Hmmmmm... yet ANOTHER Licensed Star Wars product depicting Captain Cardinal as a TLJ-era set of armor. Is it a disappointing miss in accuracy? Or at what point do we accept that either a TFA or TLJ variant may be acceptable? Disney/LucasFilm has now signed off a TLJ version at least... Once... Twice... And now three times with Denuo Novo, who also makes a TFA helmet and could have easily loaded red plastic into that mold. Technically more than that as well, as both the art and products were likely approved separately. If this was a garage maker, it would not matter, but these same boxes sport the Disney logo and therefore I think merit inclusion in the discussion, especially with so few other canon visual references for this character. To my limited knowledge, the only other contrary visual reference material is from the Phasma book jacket that shows TFA style... (Curious if that was a computer generated image or what...) I'd love to hear people's thoughts and if a TLJ variant should be developed! I just want to see this costume approved, man...
  5. Congrats, trooper! That is some beautiful armor, well done. Tracker updated!
  6. I'll defer to the team and it's not a hill I'm willing to die on. The armor underneath is clearly TFA era, so the existing TFA CRL should be a great base, but we're just not going to be able to confirm many things based on the game graphics, so why would we include anything that would hold anyone to an artificial standard that we can't prove using the source material? Is there enough 360* clear imagery to warrant a CRL? I say heck yes. Is there enough detail to include ALL of the criteria from the TFA FOTK CRL? I would say no. And I would argue that the source material is meant to be "realistic". This is not an "animated" style or a style of armor that is specific to the game. The game is clearly intending to replica TFA era realistic movie armor within the best abilities of their graphics capabilities. It should be a slightly easier version of the TFA FOTK, but add the pauldron and visor. I know Endor Finders was offering white palms at one point, but that render was not in color. I suspect the palm stitching is black. But I couldn't prove it to you with a clear image from the game, so.... Spot on - they're painted with the same rattlecan Rust-Oleum Heritage Red satin paint. I am starting with a "clean" version (and will likely submit as a TFA FOTK first) and then will add light weathering for submission of Gauge once I've confirmed with the LMOs that substantive changes are not absolutely required. The character designer has confirmed that the curvature of the pauldron is an artefact during gameplay and that a soft leather should be an ideal material, similar to the Denuo Novo FOTK pauldrons. Mine should soften up a bit more with wear but there's no reason to make this any harder than it needs to be. I will attempt to replicate the game character as faithfully as possible, but there will be limitations when we are replicating a source material that isn't real world, and I accept that.
  7. Double up on your magnets and place them as close as they can get, staggering them slightly and alternating polarities as you place them so they want to push apart, not pull together. The more pressure you have on the strip, the more flush it's going to lay. Having inner cover strips glued in first will also make this WAY easier to allow for minimal gaps, as the coverstrip becomes more cosmetic than structural. I usually scuff my pieces before gluing with E6000, so watch when you scuff under the strip and ensure the part is level there also.
  8. Congrats, trooper! May I ask who is the maker on your blaster? Tracker has been updated.
  9. Forearms For this build, I will be utilizing a set of Imperial Surplus TFA-style ABS forearms. Let's build them! *Working on updating - pic links are the hard part!
  10. Helmet The helmet is one of the most noticeable changes, especially the addition of "teeth" on the TLJ model, though other small updates are present.
  11. ***WORK IN PROGRESS*** Soooo what's the difference between a TFA and TLJ style FOTK? And what would it take to convert the primarily TLJ-focused Denuo Novo First Order Stormtrooper kit to TFA-style? Let's get into it. The Force Awakens ("TFA") First Order Stormtrooper CRL The Last Jedi ("TLJ") / The Rise of Skywalker ("TRoS") First Order Stormtrooper CRL We'll start with noting the difference in general, but with special emphasis on the Denuo Novo kit, which is clearly intended to be TLJ style, but has several parts that are actually more suited for TFA. I have grouped several elements together and will explain my plan for each element. Is this inclusive of all changes made? Probably not, but hopefully it is enough for multiple approvals utilizing the same base kit, with a little extra intentional work.
  12. Apologies if my diagram was unclear, but that's looking much closer to the reference photos now - great work!
  13. Y'all are wildin on these AM kits man. I was told previously on a mentee's EIB submission that this tab is not present on any screen used reference armor and not included on any other maker's kit other than AM, and that it should be removed and the snaps placed higher. It would be great to have consistency on this point.
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