CableGuy

Thanks, Tino. Flat black for the t-tracks then. I’m a little unsure of whether to use hammered or wrinkle paint. Did I read that you said you’d probably not use hammered again? Hammered vs wrinkle aside, here’s what I’m planning to order*; *need to add semi-gloss black to the order I’ve used Humbrol for other projects over the years, including my lid, so assuming they should be up to the job. I noticed that tennantlim used wrinkle. Might delve a little deeper into that aspect of it. :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’ve just been reading through your thread again, Tino. Stunning work. Thought it deserves a bump for any new blaster builders. :-)

Today’s 20minute mod is.... :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi blaster friends. Although I’m not quite there yet, im planning ahead to the painting phase. If been reading through the blaster reference - could you please let me know if the below looks about right? Grip - primer > semi gloss black Trigger group (selected parts) and inner bolt - primer > metallic grey/steel like Sterling parts - primer > silver/metallic undercoat > crinkle effect black Scope - brass > flat black Counter, trigger, end cap, power cylinders, selector switch, charging handle, magazine - primer > flat black T-tracks - Black rubber effect? Hand painted? Regarding the T-Tracks, I saw that Tino used a rubber effect paint of some sort, however I couldn’t see if it was sprayed (at some point in the process), or hand painted. This will be followed by some weathering. Thanks in advance. :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Great work on resizing some of the pieces. Looks so much better on you now. :-) As you said - it wouldn’t hurt to bring the shoulder bells a little closer to your shoulder bridges with shorter elastic. Great photos from your event, too. :-) Best wishes, Dan Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi all, Got a few little parts added today. I’ve taken to using bolts and removing the head. I can then screw that part/s into place before gluing. Here’s some update pics. It’s nice to see more parts on my blaster than on the shelf next to my workspace. Means I must be getting closer to he finish line. :-) Cheers, Dan :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Cheers Jesse. Good idea with the corn starch. My wife does that with fondant (she makes big cake creations). Will try that next time. Had a little go at reshaping following your handy link. Essentially though, I think mine are a little too thick to get them spot on. Appreciate the link though. :-) [emoji1303] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So sorry to hear of your loss. My thoughts are with you and your family. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

A little more done than I expected today. My first foray into using Green stuff. Mixed up too much so decided to do a couple of other tasks with the excess. Plenty of sanding and finishing to do. :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi all. Not a lot to report. Just a slight update to the trigger guard and a custom sight pin. As you’ll see, took an old bolt, removed thread from top, added side groove and cut down to size. Still needs a little tidying up, but hopefully looking okay. Also reshaped and added slots to the trigger guard. That’s all, folks. :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looking good, Paul. Just one little thing - Before you glue, I think the magazine wants to face the other way. :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Wow, Nate. That’s looking lovely. :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Many congrats, Daniel. :-)

Thanks, Brian. I’ve got a 12 piece set of carving tools arriving today so will have a good go at that. :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I spotted a piece of MDF in my shed which looks like it’s just the right thickness. I’ll have a look tonight. :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just realised which piece you mean. The part on top of the inner tube. Yes - I’ll be making something to do that job. Not sure what yet though. Just ran out of time this evening. :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Cheers Tino. Yes indeed. I have a marker pen at the ready. ;-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi everyone. Started working on the bolt and cocking handle. Decided to drill into the cocking/charge handle and fit in a bolt. Took the head off the bolt to have use of both ends. Managed to forget to take a picture of the handle with bolt, but basically the thread goes into the inner bolt with a nut on the inside. Moved on to my spring using the wire from Tino’s kit. I checked some reference pics and 12-13 coils seems to be about right. I used a drum stick (another former hobby of mine) to wrap the wire around. When coiled, I stretched it long enough to give good resistance again the end cap. Seems to work really nicely. Cheers. :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi Paul, Apologies, I’ve just seen that I didn’t reply to this. The original way to do it is below: Essentially, a small price of curved metal to give the resistance. However, check out Tennantlim’s build - he did a handy trick with a shirt collar stay (the little plastic thingy). ;-) I’m currently using a very small spring for mine - about 3 or 4mm high. Hope that helps. :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks Brian. I see what you mean. It looks like a very nice mod, but a lot more involved than the more common approach. I think I will just work with the existing ejection port and add more definition to the edges, to enhance the illusion of separate parts. Great use of the 3.5mm male-female jack, BTW. :-) Dan :-)

Hi Chris. Cheers - that sounds like a very sensible reason why it’s not done more widely. :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi Paul. Doing well with the folding stock. I agree - it’s a bit of a mission getting all of that resin out. :-) Depending on your painting plan, the trigger guard might want to wait. Depends what stages you have in mind for painting. In terms of the shape, it’s probably a little down to personal preference. At a glance, you could probably go ‘out’ a little with the front curve. Nice work so far, mate. :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi everyone. Did a little work on the power cylinders today. Cut down the aluminium rod to 3 off 23mm, then used Tino’s trick of putting the rods in a drill and filing the edges. I also started on the inner bolt and cocking handle. How’s this looking? Is there a specific distance between red a green (below); Also, is there a practical reason why more people don’t just cut out/remove the entire ejector port? My brain keeps saying, “why not just remove it and create a nice inner bolt”. Then the strip will be perfectly lined up and fully colour matched etc. Cheers in advance. :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I know I’m a few years behind here, but, lovely looking blaster, Andrew. :-)

Hi Paul, Re the end cap clip and its functionality, Brian (bulldog) shares this on my thread. Really shows how the clip should work. :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk